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Technics SP-10 MkII spruce-up


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47 minutes ago, krakatana said:

@mloutfie

Have you replaced the electrolytics? I'm going through the process now. The caps in the power supply and the logic circuit were particularly bad ie. leaking.

I planned to do it but for now I've gone through mine and there is no leaks

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Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT.

It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. 

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6 minutes ago, krakatana said:

Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT.

It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. 

 

Very true, and there's two types of leakage - physical venting/leaking of electrolyte, and electrical leakage.

 

Sadly I didn't test the Matsushita caps that I removed from the SP10 shown earlier in the thread, so I can't say how they spec'd out vs the replacements.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, krakatana said:

Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT.

It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. 

Do you have the capacitors list? I've found it before in a web page but can't find it anymore

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These are the values for the Power Supply:

1x 1000uF/100V (can)
1x 1000uF/16V (axial)
1x 100uF/160V (axial)
2x 100uF/16V
2x 100uF/50V
1x 22uF/160V

 

I'll type up the remainder in the turntable soon.

I noticed that pete_mac used a different value for the 1000uF/100V (2200uF instead?). Maybe it's beneficial to increase that but I've used the same values as the original caps.

Edit: That's not quite true, some of my caps had higher voltage ratings in the power supply.

Edit: 1x 100uF/60V (axial) changed to 1x 100uF/160V (axial)

Edited by krakatana
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You guys are scaring me now with the need for cap replacements ...I treat my SP10 Mk II like an old car, if it ain’t broke don’t touch it. It just keeps going and going faultlessly over the years. I do have a back-up spare SP10 and psu in the attic.  

 

Maybe I should reappraise this approach and get the soldering iron out??   ?

 

Cheers,

 

Steve.

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I would call it peace of mind rather than paranoia. Not servicing it is like driving your car for several years without changing the oil. Having said that it still hasn't been put back together yet, maybe it won't even be working anymore!

The thing is that nothing appeared abnormal with the TT. Except maybe for a slight, consistent wobble in the strobe?

The first picture is the worst of the caps from the power supply and the second is from the TT.

SP10 Power Supply Caps.jpg

SP10 TT Caps.jpg

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15 hours ago, krakatana said:

These are the values for the Power Supply:

1x 1000uF/100V (can)
1x 1000uF/16V (axial)
1x 100uF/60V (axial)
2x 100uF/16V
2x 100uF/50V
1x 22uF/160V

 

I'll type up the remainder in the turntable soon.

I noticed that pete_mac used a different value for the 1000uF/100V (2200uF instead?). Maybe it's beneficial to increase that but I've used the same values as the original caps.

Edit: That's not quite true, some of my caps had higher voltage ratings in the power supply.

 

15 hours ago, krakatana said:

Turntable

 

10 x 1uF/50V
2 x 2.2uF/50V
3 x 10uF/16V
5 x 10uF/50V
1 x 100uF/16V
1 x 100uF/50V axial
1 x 330uF/10V
 

BTW is yours Mk2A? looking for details for any difference of the parts used since spec wise it's seems to different from standard Mk2 with slightly better wow and rumble. Also finally found the caps list from before. It's also seems to be recommended to replace varistor did you replace yours? 

 

 

 

caps list.JPG

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There's actually four boards but two are closely associated.

 

Varistors in the control circuit (VR101 = 20k Ohm, VR102 = 2k Ohm) and Power Supply (R405 = 500 Ohm, R415 = 2k Ohm). Will have to research what the modern equivalents are.

Circuit boards.jpg

Varistors Control Circuit.jpg

Varistors Power Supply.jpg

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A mixture of Kemet, Vishay and Illinois Caps, due mainly to availability. Primary considerations for selecting the power supply caps were maximum operating temperature and expected lifetime.

NB. I made a mistake with the original list: 1x 100uF/60V (axial) should be 1x 100uF/160V (axial).

 

1x 1000uF/100V (can)

https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/kemet/PEH169PA4100QB2/399-12296-ND/5427898

Not ideal as it has a large aluminium bolt at the base. This can be easily cut off with a hacksaw. The original cap was 1000uF/80V, good luck finding that!


1x 1000uF/16V (axial)

https://www.digikey.com.au/products/en?keywords=MAL211816102E3


1x 100uF/160V (axial)

https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/illinois-capacitor/107TTA160M/1572-1663-ND/5410815

But I would go for this one now, it was out of stock when I ordered. It has a slightly higher rated voltage but a much longer expected lifespan and higher max. temp:

https://www.digikey.com.au/products/en?keywords=MAL211892101E3

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17 minutes ago, krakatana said:

 

 

1x 1000uF/100V (can)

https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/kemet/PEH169PA4100QB2/399-12296-ND/5427898

Not ideal as it has a large aluminium bolt at the base. This can be easily cut off with a hacksaw. The original cap was 1000uF/80V, good luck finding that!

 

I should be able to replace that with this right? https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1802116/

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It should be fine. The only possible issue is that the diameter of the original can is about 35mm and the diameter of the one you have linked is 25mm. But just wrap something around the can to get a tight fit. No issues with height.

Where did you read about the varistors needing be changed?

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Gents, you can safely double the size of the large filter cap in the power supply - absolutely no drama in that regard. This makes it easier to find one that will fit the original clamp.

 

This is the exact cap that was installed in the power supply shown in my posts - I note that the power supply was overhauled before I received it:

 

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/2550276/

 

35mm diameter and 55mm height is what you can work with dimension-wise

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Mouser have some nice caps with the correct diameter:

 

https://au.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0j7ksZ1yx553eZ1z0j88r&Keyword=2200uf+100v&FS=True&Ns=Pricing|0

 

In particular, the Kemet cap at approx. $16 is a beauty!

 

The only bugger with Mouser is that shipping is $25 or so, unless you spend over $60 and get free shipping.

 

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Interesting thread guys.

I have 3 SP10 II and a spare motor and a (probably) complete unit in parts and want to build a really plinth for one large enough for 3 arms. I already have the arms and carts and can rebuild the preamps I have in storage.

 

So, my question is do any of you have any idea how to refinish the plinth and platter a la this? Or should I just ship it to Blighty and get it done?

 

What piqued the interest again is I will have some spare ply from the new speakers and a friend doing a CAD course so I can get him to do the layers to get cut out. The electronics I can easily mod and I'll need to build a PSU.

 

Now, back to your regular programming.

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11 hours ago, A9X said:

So, my question is do any of you have any idea how to refinish the plinth and platter a la this? Or should I just ship it to Blighty and get it done?

You can ask an sl1200 restoration place to powder coat the plinth and platter.

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14 hours ago, pete_mac said:

Mouser have some nice caps with the correct diameter:

 

https://au.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0j7ksZ1yx553eZ1z0j88r&Keyword=2200uf+100v&FS=True&Ns=Pricing|0

 

In particular, the Kemet cap at approx. $16 is a beauty!

  

The only bugger with Mouser is that shipping is $25 or so, unless you spend over $60 and get free shipping.

 

this would work? https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/4340813/

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