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Tannoy westminster se build


tvcollector

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I presume the screws holding the inductors on the board are not steel. Steel will change the value of the inductor and probably do other things as well as the steel saturates with signal

 

This comment relates to the air cored inductors only

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Edited by WayneK
clarification
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So guys i need some help just finished the next crossover looks much better than the first so i tidyed up the first so they are uniform but ive been reading 
A guy upgraded his and used 50watt resisters does that make a difference as i dont have the original rating i used 5watt and 10wwatt is it better to go bigger?
Is 50watt excuse my french but wank factor or does it make it better in some way cheers

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Guest atilsley

Resistors can struggle if a lot of extra power going through them...which is why people double them up.

 

If you're using, say, 300B valve amp, 50 watt resistor OK.

 

Different if running massive bi-amp config....

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  • 2 weeks later...

So big night tonight veneered the sides in the front and cut out the peices for my curvs was hard to work out the angle but got there and happy my side joins worked out was a bit worried, the biggest and hardest part of this build is definitely the veneering i must say i wish i could have bought the timber veneered already like others do but because i had to glue all my sheets together id have to send it to someone after. But at least im learning a few new skills. 

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Another big day and night measured the angles on the front and the plan was to use 3x sheets of 3mm which all up with veneer is 10mm so i came in 10mm from the top and in at the bottom then went to staple the first sheet well 3mm 

Doesnt bend like i thought. So tried to screw it down but it just kept splitting the timber so i gave up and had to make new peices then after procrastinating for an hour i came up with the idea of cutting it into heaps of strips and then i can make each peice fit properly yes probably the hardest way i could of done it but it is the most important part of these speakers 

So has to be perfect. I need to line up 4 sides of veneer spot on so once screwed in i filled the lines and cracks. 

 

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So do you now intend to glue veneer over the shaped timber?

 

There area couple of other ways you could have formed the shape but your way will work and that is all that matters.

 

Edited by EV Cali
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34 minutes ago, tvcollector said:

Doesnt bend like i thought. So tried to screw it down but it just kept splitting the timber so i gave up and had to make new peices then after procrastinating for an hour i came up with the idea of cutting it into heaps of strips and then i can make each peice fit properly yes probably the hardest way i could of done it but it is the most important part of these speakers 

So has to be perfect. I need to line up 4 sides of veneer spot on so once screwed in i filled the lines and cracks. 

I probably would have used 9mm bending ply and grooved the back to get more compliance out of it. 

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11 minutes ago, EV Cali said:

So do you now intend to glue veneer over the shaped timber?

 

There area couple of other ways you could have formed the shape buy your way will work and that is all that matters.

 

Yes and its going to be a pain in the ass it isnt glued in yet that peice comes out so i can veneer it then fit it in and sand to get it perfect. Yes i know i had a look tonight on youtube should have done that first but i was in the mood to just get into it lol

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1 hour ago, tvcollector said:

Another big day and night measured the angles on the front and the plan was to use 3x sheets of 3mm which all up with veneer is 10mm so i came in 10mm from the top and in at the bottom then went to staple the first sheet well 3mm 

Doesnt bend like i thought. So tried to screw it down but it just kept splitting the timber so i gave up and had to make new peices then after procrastinating for an hour i came up with the idea of cutting it into heaps of strips and then i can make each peice fit properly yes probably the hardest way i could of done it but it is the most important part of these speakers 

So has to be perfect. I need to line up 4 sides of veneer spot on so once screwed in i filled the lines and cracks. 

 

 

I believe the best method for bending your timber without it splitting is steaming it.

 

I'm no expert by any means and couldn't tell you how to do it but hopefully someone here might have more of an idea about it.

 

I am definitely enjoying reading about your project and the great work you're doing, can't wait to see the final speakers. :) 

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Toby,

Have a look at Plymaster for bending ply it will bend over that profile with ease.

But the way you have done it also work's to form a curve just a lot more work.

Here's a pic of a horn speaker i built using the same method.

Keep at it Great work.

 

Steve.

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The problem with kerfing, cutting grooves  across the ply, is that on close inspection flats can be seen on the curve.

Another method is to glue several thin pieces together, clamped round a former. When dry they will retain the shape.

Like the ply on an Eames Chair.

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6 hours ago, kranky said:

Toby,

Have a look at Plymaster for bending ply it will bend over that profile with ease.

But the way you have done it also work's to form a curve just a lot more work.

Here's a pic of a horn speaker i built using the same method.

Keep at it Great work.

 

Steve.

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Wow great job, yes would have been easier but may as well do it all the same now lol

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@tvcollector just to twist your arm a little maybe...:)

 

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thats 6mm bendy ply, would easily bend around 100mm diameter curve if not less given the right persuasion. 

 

Its great stuff. 

 

 

Edited by shaky
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Thats impressive you are twisting my arm will go see the bunker today, on another note got my front panels made 

They look impressive very happy now i just have to finish them and put them together without scratching them 

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Tonights updates didnt get much done but got the top done decided just to do the same so it was all the same just a bit nicer. I procrastinated a bit to work out the next steps and how to do the veneer without gaps

 

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How are you getting the shape for the veneer?

One way is with a scribing block . This was a method I was shown when I worked on fitting out boats, lots of curves with panels to fit against them.

It is a method of obtaining the shape and then  transferring to the veneer.

In this case I would transfer it to thick card and then when the card was a perfect fit, on to the veneer.

I can explain the method if you need me to .

 

Looking great though.

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