ZOOTYtooty Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Great build! I've owned the SE Royals and they are a very musical speaker, you will be rewarded. Just a note, while you still have the opportunity, there is a lot of energy that is present in the cabinet, especially at the lower frequencies, I would consider adding additional bracing between the parallel surfaces. They must not interfere with the horn, thus be small and rigid. I ended up being shipped a second pair due to the first having an intrusive resonance in the cabinet. (Got to keep the second pair at 30% of the cost!!) There is a great article by Dr Harvey Rosenburg (Gizmo) on his Royal adventure, which will be well worth a read. He eventually filled them with sand and put threaded rods through the sides... http://www.meta-gizmo.org/Tri/potty/TANNOYMANIA.html Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Wow great article, Cut and lined up the book ends and sheets for the front panels lot harder than i thought. No room for error as i only have 8 sheets of this veneer and it needs 4 each side. So far s o good turned out ok barley see the lines. Hopefully it looks good once cleared 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jventer Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 On 03/02/2017 at 7:13 AM, ZOOTYtooty said: Great build! I've owned the SE Royals and they are a very musical speaker, you will be rewarded. Just a note, while you still have the opportunity, there is a lot of energy that is present in the cabinet, especially at the lower frequencies, I would consider adding additional bracing between the parallel surfaces. They must not interfere with the horn, thus be small and rigid. I ended up being shipped a second pair due to the first having an intrusive resonance in the cabinet. (Got to keep the second pair at 30% of the cost!!) There is a great article by Dr Harvey Rosenburg (Gizmo) on his Royal adventure, which will be well worth a read. He eventually filled them with sand and put threaded rods through the sides... http://www.meta-gizmo.org/Tri/potty/TANNOYMANIA.html Enjoy! Have been thinking about what you said and i am going to do som bracing im making up a few extra peices to support inner walls plus once finished im looking at clear coating all the inside timbe to seal and keep free of moisture is that a good idea or will it promote vibration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOOTYtooty Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Clear coating will make no real difference either way. It's the flare of the horn that determines the bass. The bracing though will certainly not be wasted! I know this is controversial, but I prefer the sound of the ferrite magnet and found my westminster TW's far more neutral than the Royals. They have a shorter throat and don't require the drilled pepper pot instead using the tulip waveguide. If you can land your hands on a pair of pro 15" dual concentric's, grab them, as you will be one of the lucky few able to make the comparison side by side! They also use a far less complex x-over. I actually have a very nice letter from Tannoy which I'll try to find and scan which explains the differences. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kranky Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Nice work!! Toby theres a nice set of Tannoy drivers on flea bay Brand new. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thanks mate, i already have a set ready to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Putting together the side panels and cleared starting to look like a speaker now and i went through and glued every joint again to make sure there all sealed and no leaks there is only one part im not happy with and that is the b panel that the angle wasnt 100% perfect but all 4 are exactly the same. It still is in the exact position but will have to be sealed once the back is on everything else in the build has gone like it should pretty happy. Just have to veneer the second front and then make the crossover mountings for the next step. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 B is in the circle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THOMO Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Great work Toby. What glue are you using for the veneering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Contact adhesive same as you use in motor trimming very tough stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NADMAD Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 On 2/12/2017 at 10:52 AM, tvcollector said: Contact adhesive same as you use in motor trimming very tough stuff Is this a spray on adhesive? If you could post a link that would be great. When I did my speaker cabinets I used the iron on veneer and it was shocking. In order to get enough heat to melt the glue sufficiently for the bond to be permanent you seem to end up applying too much heat to the veneer and causing it to start splitting and / or being raised with the changes in grain. I was more successful applying a thin layer of glue to the other side and waiting for that to dry before applying heat, but contact adhesive sounds like it could be a winner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) Hi nadmad, its just contact adhesive you can get it from bunnings as well as a motor trimmer. Edited February 13, 2017 by tvcollector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Cut out the crossover hole last night and tried to fit the crossover and bugger doesnt fit and it looks average so i need to work out how to mount it and mite just make it again as im just not happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOOTYtooty Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I'm heading to South Africa (I'm from there) in April, and am considering bringing my Royals and Kingdoms back if I can still get them in, (as I've been living here for eight years). Would you be interested in them @ $15k? I'd probably sell the Kingdoms for the same, would like to keep either of them so whatever doesn't sell.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOOTYtooty Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Mine are the HE from 2002. They still have all packaging etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 13 hours ago, ZOOTYtooty said: I'm heading to South Africa (I'm from there) in April, and am considering bringing my Royals and Kingdoms back if I can still get them in, (as I've been living here for eight years). Would you be interested in them @ $15k? I'd probably sell the Kingdoms for the same, would like to keep either of them so whatever doesn't sell.. Wow unfortunately the reason im building these is because i could not afford the real ones And second my passion is building and challenging myself i really enjoy it. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 So the crossover rebuild begins !! at least they will be better this time the first ones when i made them i thought of other things i could,change to make them better so will do that on these. Starting with the base of marine ply. They are very difficult to make with the pins that change the energy everything has to be lined up and insulated except the plate of alloy hard not having the original to go off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOOTYtooty Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 On 15/02/2017 at 0:12 AM, tvcollector said: Wow unfortunately the reason im building these is because i could not afford the real ones And second my passion is building and challenging myself i really enjoy it. I understand and agree completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Lowpass crossovers nearly done waiting for the big caps 2x 100uf in each instead of a single 200uf Then they are done havnt spent too much time perfecting them because i want to hear how they soound And if they need tweeking i can then once they are perfect ill glue all the components down and finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOOTYtooty Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Very tidy! I recall that my first Westminster from the '80's had a bank of smaller (still large) caps, sitting on the shelf above the drive unit, where the Royal HE's had a single Atlas insecticide can sized unit. So something in the middle of the two sounds just right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 So had a crap night tonight working on the tannoys i got all the veneer lined up awsome and sprayed the glue and was lining up the Centre and it slipped and fell onto the glued panel too low nothing i could do,it was stuck and i dont have any spare veneer but at least its centre left to right. Im hoping i can add a strip at the top or its going to look like crap sux. But i got the sides done ready for the curves so at least something went Right. So i thought id do a cleanup and go home early but halfway through got distracted lol i put the driver in to see how it lines up and looks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lansche plasma guy Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 On 7 February 2017 at 7:04 AM, ZOOTYtooty said: Clear coating will make no real difference either way. It's the flare of the horn that determines the bass. The bracing though will certainly not be wasted! I know this is controversial, but I prefer the sound of the ferrite magnet and found my westminster TW's far more neutral than the Royals. They have a shorter throat and don't require the drilled pepper pot instead using the tulip waveguide. If you can land your hands on a pair of pro 15" dual concentric's, grab them, as you will be one of the lucky few able to make the comparison side by side! They also use a far less complex x-over. I actually have a very nice letter from Tannoy which I'll try to find and scan which explains the differences. I very much agree with ZOOTYtooty and got similar feedback from some engineers I spoke with at Tannoy. They said the Alnico and Pepperpot units were what the market wanted but felt the TW units were far superior. This has also been my experience. I love my TW Tannoy drivers but didn't have complete satisfaction with the older Pepper Pot models (4 pairs of Golds, a pair of Super Reds and quite a few pairs of HPD's in a range of different boxes, some horn loaded). LPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcollector Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Test run of the front panels had to guess size and fonts i had to mix and match 4 different to get them exact to the Originals but well worth it now just got to resize to line up the centre panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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