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Green Wagon

Marantz SA-11S1 CD player Basic Reno/Service. WARNING - PIC HEAVY.

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Some have asked me for a run down on how to swap out the laser in the Marantz SA-11S1.

So here it is.

 

Disclaimer. I will not be responsible if your inability to do this task results in your cat imploding or any other issues. If in doubt, DON'T.

 

Tools needed; Phillips number 1 and 2, Flat blade number 2, Clean rags, Soldering iron - Some solder wick would be good, Lots of undisturbed bench space with good lighting.

Parts needed; *Laser assembly, Draw belt (1.2 x 35), Light grease. Polyglide grease and belt from WES components.

 

*Laser assembly.

I believe the Marantz way is to replace the entire laser/table motor mech.

I have no idea if that assembly is still available. I just replaced the laser section on its own.

Various forum posts suggest the laser is only good for 4 years. It's actually a dvd laser so has dual beams for cd and super cd.

That means one might die and leave the other just fine. So it might read cd's and not super cd's, or visa versa.

The service manual quotes it as being a HOP-1200R (Toshiba). The one I pulled out is obviously original and it was an 'S'.

I've used a HOP-1200S (The S and R are identical so direct swap overs obviously)

Apparently a HOP-1200W can also be used but might have a small bit of plastic that needs to be trimmed so it doesn't foul the draw ?

I found a supplier in the US. http://dalbani.com/

The owner Juju is awesome to deal with. The website doesn't allow overseas transactions, but shoot him an email and he'll sort you out.

I bought 3x HOP-1200S, and with freight it came to ~ Au$103 (half was freight).

 

Enough jibber jabber. The Subject in question...

 

post-106429-0-84972400-1430362498_thumb. post-106429-0-73784500-1430362515_thumb.

 

Now, Lets gut the sucker :D

 

Turn it on and open the draw, Remove the draw trim on the front, Just carefully slide the trim up and off the Draw (Sorry no pics), close the draw, unplug power.

 

Remove three screws, Slide the lid backwards about 5cm, lift lid out. It might be tight. Pic of lid upside down so you can see the 'latches' on the sides and front.

 

post-106429-0-41518900-1430362748_thumb.

 

Oh it's naked and oh so shiny :D ? The stain on top of the cd mech. No idea where it came from, how it got there, or what it is. It cleaned up just fine with a rag and cleaner.

 

post-106429-0-28874200-1430363028_thumb.

 

As you pull it apart, set the screws etc into their own piles, maybe on a piece of paper with labels so you know where they belong...

 

Remove the top stay, Note the red circle, its a plastic push pin, pull it up and you will have two bits, the pin and the expanding locker.

Unplug the blue bits. the right hand ribbon has a suppression bead thats held in place with some 'sticky strips'.

Carefully peel back the sticky strips and pull the ribbons out of the board connectors. No latches, just pull straight up.

Remove the 4 screws holding the entire mech to the case. Note the front two screws have star washers.

 

post-106429-0-61622500-1430363716_thumb. post-106429-0-17646100-1430365424_thumb.

 

You can now maneuver the whole mech out of the chassis.

 

post-106429-0-64478100-1430365539_thumb. 

 

You can set the chassis aside to give you more room to work on the mech assy.

Cut the tape across the back (I also removed the remains of the tape). Remove the 2 screws from the top plate, slide the 'lid' fowards and off. Set it aside. (I actually removed the 4 screws and removed the upper part of the lid first, but I don't think thats needed)

 

post-106429-0-49531200-1430365946_thumb. post-106429-0-89103400-1430366200_thumb.

 

Flip the mech over. Cut the blue cable tie, Unplug the 2 red connectors. Very gently Un-latch and unplug the 2 yellow ribbons.

(Slide the black latch fowards, away from the white body, little by little, work from one side to the other until its loose)

 

post-106429-0-71294900-1430367193_thumb. post-106429-0-54956200-1430366931_thumb.

 

Flip it back over and remove 4 screws, split the two halves apart. Set the lower half aside. Be careful not to damage the now exposed ribbon cables..

 

post-106429-0-79893200-1430367617_thumb. post-106429-0-57441400-1430367721_thumb.

 

Remove 6 screws separating the final bit of the transport apart.

 

post-106429-0-21121900-1430369996_thumb.

 

To replace the draw belt.. Remove the 2 little grey plastic split washers and the 2 gears. make sure your fingers are clean, replace the belt.

I used a little dob of grease on the spindles before reinstalling the gears.

Be carefull with those split washers as they can fly off to no mans land.

 

post-106429-0-64808200-1430370332_thumb. post-106429-0-93640300-1430370710_thumb. post-106429-0-98397100-1430370799_thumb.

 

Finally lets move to the laser assembly...............................

 

Remove 2 screws. Remove top clamp, Then work at pulling the black plastic rail support out as well.

Careful, there are two small springs under the rails. Mine didn't move, but its worth mentioning.

 

post-106429-0-25191600-1430371059_thumb. post-106429-0-70332000-1430371176_thumb.

 

Slide the bottom rail out towards the back. slide the top rail out as well at the same time moving the whole laser down away from the gears to disengage them.

 

post-106429-0-95497100-1430371380_thumb.

 

Slide the laser of the rails, watch that white piece as theres another spring under it.

 

post-106429-0-39937700-1430371627_thumb. post-106429-0-41961600-1430371780_thumb.

 

Swap the ribbon cable and white plastic bit over to the new laser. Again, careful with the connector lock and cable, Make sure you put it into the new laser the right way up.

 

post-106429-0-78147200-1430372103_thumb.

 

Half way mark.....................

 

Start putting it back together. Don't forget to clean the rails. Greasing them can wait till its mostly back together. LIGHT greasing, Just a smear. That is if your doing that bit.

Rails should only need a wipe with a clean rag to clean them. NO abrasives of any sort.

When you get to the stage where the new laser is back in the frame, do not forget to remove the anti static solder blobs. Two of them on this sucker.

Oh yes, of course you've been doing this in a static free environment. Just like I never do :D (Notice the wooden bench, see any anti stat measures ? Nope, Me neither.)

 

post-106429-0-81357400-1430372435_thumb. post-106429-0-37519500-1430373038_thumb.

 

Well, all you need to do is read this thread backwards now and put it all back together.

Only thing to note on reassembly is the draw.

On the draw loader, there is a small round nub that sits up, make sure that sits in a groove on the bottom of the black draw itself.

Otherwise it will never open/shut at all..

 

post-106429-0-01308100-1430373270_thumb.

 

Final words, as you replug the various cables, the ribbon to board cable with that suppressor bead and sticky tape,

I found it far easier to undo the tape of the suppressor bead, slide the bead onto the ribbon, plug the cable into the board, slide the bead back into place, then finally restick the sticky tape.

It isn't a fun job getting the bead free from the tape, but this is the best way to make sure you get the cables seated back in correctly.

 

As a very rough guide to time frame.

Disassembly took maybe half hour, laser and belt ~ half hour, cleaning and reassembly ~ 2 hrs.

 

Take your time, take photos, make notes, don't rush and potentially kill the player.

 

I hope you enjoyed reading this thread as much as I enjoyed taking the 5+ hours to write it, while selecting, editing, inserting the various pics. :P

 

Oh yes, I also swapped the hot and cold on the balanced output so it matches fathers Pass preamp.

Safer that way, and I labeled the back so it's easy to see the new pin connections.

 

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What I really enjoy is when they work afterwards :D

 

More so if they didn't before hand...............

 

EDIT, I should add that I replaced the laser because I can.

Not because of any issues.

Seeings how you need to strip it to the last screw to do the belt, it's a no brainer to do the laser at the same time.

Edited by Green Wagon

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Does this method apply to just this model? I think there's considerable differences between earlier models in the series but later models tend to be similar but not identical?

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I think I saw reference somewhere about the 12 and 13 using the same laser, so potentially, maybe ? :D

I really don't know about other specific models.

 

EDIT. A lot of cd players have a similar type of rail and laser assembly system.

So a lot of this walk though could be useful for other brands and models.

 

But it really is going to depend on the specific unit in question...

Edited by Green Wagon

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Very handy information as I have one of these spinners . :thumb:

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What an incredibly generous and informative post...just hope firstly, I never have to, and secondly I hope I have a big enough pair of "poozarnies" to do it :P

 

And of course this was brought to you by a "gentleman and a scholar"  (oh sorry did I type that out loud ? ) :nana

Cheers for that :thumb:

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What an incredibly generous and informative post...just hope firstly, I never have to, and secondly I hope I have a big enough pair of "poozarnies" to do it :P

 

And of course this was brought to you by a "gentleman and a scholar"  (oh sorry did I type that out loud ? ) :nana

Cheers for that :thumb:

 

Meh, anyone with a hammer should be able to work this out.

The first time you do anything it's always a crap shoot.

Second time is ok.

after that its just for the fun :D

 

Aww, you said you wouldn't tell :P  Actually, no you didn't, oh well........

 

With most of the things I do, I think if you can do it at your leisure, and plod away in a methodical manner, most things are doable.

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Knock Knock

Are you still here?

I just picked one of these beast up and it started playing some CDs, but it now doesn't want to play, it just says "cannot play" could it be that the lase only needs a clean? as it smelt like the previous owner was a heavy SMOKER! Or do you think that it's time for a new laser. Thank you for the generous post.

David

 

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Knock Knock
Are you still here?
I just picked one of these beast up and it started playing some CDs, but it now doesn't want to play, it just says "cannot play" could it be that the lase only needs a clean? as it smelt like the previous owner was a heavy SMOKER! Or do you think that it's time for a new laser. Thank you for the generous post.
David
 

Does it say something like “TOC Error”?

My previous Marantz player did this, and it was new laser time...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, Raffinator said:


Does it say something like “TOC Error”?

My previous Marantz player did this, and it was new laser time...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No it just says I think "Cannot Play"

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