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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Sansui folk.

 

Having run my AU 517 a few times now I'm thinking of using the Pre Out to another amp.

 

It does not have preout/power in jumpers like I'm used to.

Instead it has a slide switch, which is fine, except it has two positions for 'separated' . Direct Coupled and Capacitor Coupled.

Can someone tell me what that's about please ?

 

Thanks.

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If you intend to use the 517 as a preamp, you can use either option as these options only apply to the "power amp in" connections when using the amplifier as a power amplifier. 

 

The "Capacitor Coupled" setting sits two small capacitors in the signal path to remove the DC before the signal reaches the amplifier circuit. This is mainly relevant if the pre-amplifier or source has DC voltage on the output, which could trigger the 517's power amp protection circuit, or result in excessive DC at the amplifier's output. 

 

The "Direct Coupled" setting connects the pre-amplifier or source directly to the amplifier circuit.

 

The snips from the user manual below may help, and this diagram below might help if you are schematically inclined. The red arrows indicate the signal path flow, S01a is the connected/separated switch on the rear panel, and the two 'eyes' in the top left of the diagram are the RCA input and output connections.

 

 

1987004850_517schematic.png.70b423714e9dbd55d5adba3508f5c829.png

 

 

 123831600_517manual1.PNG.e2a427661aa11ec383837775f8a49dd7.PNG

 

2099080103_517manual2.PNG.a83eb1ef6769aab00d5d40b3a4c51a04.PNG

 

 

Edited by pete_mac
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Goodaye all

 

Summer is here and we are locked down locked down, been working in the carport instead of the garage.

No Sansui, just a old Onkyo and Tannoy speakers on the decking.

 

Having bad thoughts (again) need another Sansui and dont have a spare, there all in use.

So need another one, will be out on the decking so dont want to put a big $$$ one there, but l could shuffle others.

 

Could there be better in summer drinking beer and playing tunes for the whole neighbourhood.

At least thats all we are allowed to do.

 

As for emans 517 recapp it and then see how you feel about using it as a preamp.

 

regards Bruce

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1 hour ago, sloper said:

Goodaye

.......

As for emans 517 recapp it and then see how you feel about using it as a preamp.

 

regards Bruce

I've a few problems with doing that.

Only possible if there's someone who can do it in Canberra and pickup and deliver.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well that didn't last long.

 

I've used this AU 517 for less than 6 months and the left channel has stuffed up on speakers A & B.

I'm presuming it's something on the output side.

Was thinking of using it as a pre amp anyway and I've got a custom hybrid Tube/D class integrated on the way too.

Watch this space for a possible Sansui AU 517 sale, (especially if you're in Canberra ).

 

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39 minutes ago, eman said:

Well that didn't last long.

 

I've used this AU 517 for less than 6 months and the left channel has stuffed up on speakers A & B.

I'm presuming it's something on the output side.

Was thinking of using it as a pre amp anyway and I've got a custom hybrid Tube/D class integrated on the way too.

Watch this space for a possible Sansui AU 517 sale, (especially if you're in Canberra ).

 

It's definitely worth getting fixed.

 

Has it been recapped ect?

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6 hours ago, muon* said:

It's definitely worth getting fixed.

 

Has it been recapped ect?

Pretty sure it's all original. Only got it this year.

 

So it might be mate, but I've got mobility issues so I won't be hauling this around town to post it somewhere.

If someone in Canberra can pick up and deliver it might get done, otherwise ....

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8 hours ago, eman said:

Well that didn't last long.

 

I've used this AU 517 for less than 6 months and the left channel has stuffed up on speakers A & B.

I'm presuming it's something on the output side.

Was thinking of using it as a pre amp anyway and I've got a custom hybrid Tube/D class integrated on the way too.

Watch this space for a possible Sansui AU 517 sale, (especially if you're in Canberra ).

 

 

What are the symptoms?

 

First port of call with the 517/717 is the connected/separated switch on the rear panel. Work it back and forth 30 times or so and see if it comes good. If it does, it will require a proper clean with a lubricating contact cleaner to stop it happening again. 
 


 

 

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1 hour ago, pete_mac said:

 

What are the symptoms?

 

First port of call with the 517/717 is the connected/separated switch on the rear panel. Work it back and forth 30 times or so and see if it comes good. If it does, it will require a proper clean with a lubricating contact cleaner to stop it happening again. 
 


 

 

Hmmmm......

 ok thanks, I can wiggle a switch.

 

Symptom is very low volume on left channel.

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2 hours ago, eman said:

Pretty sure it's all original. Only got it this year.

 

So it might be mate, but I've got mobility issues so I won't be hauling this around town to post it somewhere.

If someone in Canberra can pick up and deliver it might get done, otherwise ....

 

2 hours ago, pete_mac said:

 

What are the symptoms?

 

First port of call with the 517/717 is the connected/separated switch on the rear panel. Work it back and forth 30 times or so and see if it comes good. If it does, it will require a proper clean with a lubricating contact cleaner to stop it happening again. 
 


 

 

Oi!

 

Doctor in the house :thumb:

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On 16/11/2020 at 10:58 AM, pete_mac said:

 

Time to get your wiggle on!! :)

Wiggled that pre/power switch a decent amount and there's no difference.

 

Wouldn't it be both channels if that was the problem. My Right side is fine.

Left is very low in speakers A & speakers B.

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5 minutes ago, eman said:

Wiggled that pre/power switch a decent amount and there's no difference.

 

Wouldn't it be both channels if that was the problem. My Right side is fine.

Left is very low in speakers A & speakers B.

 

Not necessarily - the switch can cause intermittent issues in one or both channels.

 

Bugger that the wiggling hasn't resolved it. It could be any number of things. I'd also suggest cleaning all switches with a lubricating contact cleaner and working them through their range of motion to ensure there's no oxidation causing the issue. This incudes the tape play switches - they can also cause drop-outs.

 

If this doesn't fix the problem - unfortunately it could be any number of things, and input from a tech will be required.

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 17/11/2020 at 2:29 PM, pete_mac said:

 

Not necessarily - the switch can cause intermittent issues in one or both channels.

 

Bugger that the wiggling hasn't resolved it. It could be any number of things. I'd also suggest cleaning all switches with a lubricating contact cleaner and working them through their range of motion to ensure there's no oxidation causing the issue. This incudes the tape play switches - they can also cause drop-outs.

 

If this doesn't fix the problem - unfortunately it could be any number of things, and input from a tech will be required.

 

 

 

Both channels gone now.

Doesn't work as a pre amp and doesn't work by using a RCA cable across the Pre Out and Power In either.

 

Is the connect/separate switch easy for a complete amateur to access?

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16 minutes ago, eman said:

Both channels gone now.

Doesn't work as a pre amp and doesn't work by using a RCA cable across the Pre Out and Power In either.

 

Is the connect/separate switch easy for a complete amateur to access?

 

 Bugger!

 

If it doesn't work as a preamp, it sounds like something else is awry. The pre-outs on the rear panel do not go through the connected/separated switch, so if the preamp is functioning properly, you should get signal at the pre-outs and be able to use the amp as a pre-amp.

 

This means something is wrong with the pre-amp circuitry or the power supplies for the pre-amp. This could include dirty/oxidised switches and controls.

 

The connected/separated switch is mounted on the PCB circled red. It is fiddly to access properly and clean unless you remove it from the rear panel, and in doing so, you need to use new plastic rivets to re-affix the PCB afterwards.

 

46434214_au517recap22rear.jpg.b18b517770822290e56d7ed79543aa0e.jpg

 

Here's the diagram showing where the switch sits. Switch S01a is the one, and the red arrows indicate the flow of the signal from the pre-amp to the power amp.

 

1872130443_517schematic.png.2094ba497b76c30886b2d92a450f40e2.png

 

 

I should add that if the switch is badly corroded, adding RCA jumpers or cables often won't solve the issue, as the switch is in the signal path as shown in the image above (i.e. jumpers don't bypass the switch).

Edited by pete_mac
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  • 1 month later...
23 minutes ago, Powerglide said:

Found this orphan needing a home. I've never seen one come up and not sure how good they are as a tuner but it looked so lonely 

 

IMG_2795-compressed.thumb.jpg.ff62fafe8dc9da225bd6a83fce724928.jpg

 

got my moneys worth already just seeing the union 

 

IMG_2809-compressed.thumb.jpg.31f12035ef90dce1c98d5bae051e3bf2.jpg

 

I feel like Ancestry.com 

 

I had this combo. Very Nice.

 

Now it's time for you to get serious and chase up the Au-6900 

 

I had them all a few years ago.

 

https://www.hifi-wiki.de/images/thumb/3/3e/Sansui-Prospekt-1976-1977.jpg/1024px-Sansui-Prospekt-1976-1977.jpg

Edited by Luc
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4 minutes ago, Luc said:

I had this combo. Very Nice.

 

Now it's time for you to get serious and chase up the Au-6900 

 

I had them all a few years ago.

 

https://www.hifi-wiki.de/images/thumb/3/3e/Sansui-Prospekt-1976-1977.jpg/1024px-Sansui-Prospekt-1976-1977.jpg

 

 

The 6900 is the rare one.

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19 minutes ago, Zedamon said:

@Luc How do the 6900, 7900 differ? Currently the proud owner of a 7900 that @Powerglide picked up for me a few months ago and I love it.

It's hard to quantify to be honest. All of the above amps bar the 6900 I had refurbished(if needed) and the guy I purchased the 6900 from in the Netherlands had already done a complete rebuild, I deeply regret selling it. It was a stupid thing to do and still stings when I think about it. I held onto the wrong amp(the 7900) as it happens. 

 

How do they differ? Mainly in output with the 6900 poking out  60 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo) and a damping factor of 80. The 7900 has the same damping factor but has more grunt at 75 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo).

 

But there's no denying that the 6900 is the rare beast of this model/series run.

 

I've slowly sold all the models I had in this series with only the recapped 7900 done by Skippy to be sold now(It's on Gumtree as I'm trying to sell it locally to not have to package it to send) and a TU-3900. I'll keep the last of my 2900's (they bred like rabbits at one stage when no one wanted them on eBay..7 I think I had...lol)

 

So if you see a 6900 for sale then jump on it and get it recapped and serviced. Because of it's rarity I'd price it above a 7900 recapped or not.

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44 minutes ago, Zedamon said:

@Luc How do the 6900, 7900 differ? Currently the proud owner of a 7900 that @Powerglide picked up for me a few months ago and I love it.

 

The 7900 is the big pappa - slightly more power and more features/switching options as shown on the front panel vs the 6900. Sonically they are cut from the same cloth:

 

au-7900.thumb.jpg.593e5fbaa424b5aae23e3833d6320f2a.jpg

 

au-6900.jpg.b46d0642012e90db553e0e1d0259d41f.jpg

Edited by pete_mac
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