Linn LP12 Owners & Discussion Thread

[GregWormald]

I used a first generation Akito, then a second generation Akito, then an Ittok LVII, and now have the LVII with new wires and foam filled by Audio Origami. Each change was, to my ears, an improvement. I think I'll stick with the current modified LVII as it's a good match for my favourite Troika and upgrading significantly would be EXPENSIVE!

[JC.]

My LP12 has and Itok LVIII. Don’t see them around as much as the LVII. Many reviews I’ve ready on the III suggest it’s a better/more reliable arm than the original Ekos. 

 

My LP12 is currently getting quite a few mods done - Keel, Karousel, Radikal PS / DC Motor, Eurika phone stage. Once that’s done, I may work towards an Ekos SE. 

Edited June 1, 2020 by JC.

[Tasebass]

On 01/06/2020 at 1:10 AM, JC. said:

 

My LP12 is currently getting quite a few mods done - Keel, Karousel, Radikal PS / DC Motor, Eurika phone stage. Once that’s done, I may work towards an Ekos SE. 

Wow!!  Thats some upgrades in one hit.....congrats....

I'm assuming your still gonna be running the LV111...what cartridge will you be using..?

I'd for one would be very keen on your thoughts once everything has had a chance to settle in.....( I find it takes about a week give or take a few days and depending on your daily usage )

 

Cheers Tase. 

[Tasebass]

On 01/06/2020 at 1:10 AM, JC. said:

My LP12 has and Itok LVIII. Don’t see them around as much as the LVII. Many reviews I’ve ready on the III suggest it’s a better/more reliable arm than the original Ekos. 

 

Never had a problem with my Ekos 1....gave 16 years of great service till I traded it in against my Ekos SE.....

...wish I'd kept it TBH.......

[Telecine]

On 30/05/2020 at 9:07 PM, Juzbear said:

In an effort to keep this thread running:

What tonearms are people running on their LP12s, and what are the characteristics that drew you to them, and keep you loyal?

 

I currently run a Jelco 750D. I think it is clearly a better arm than the basik I used to use in terms of its sound characteristics- it sounds more solid and detailed with the same cartridge on the LP12.

 

The other things I like are:

1. Interchangeable Headshells.

2. Can be mounted on standard Linn cut out arm board, though it is very slightly longer pivot to spindle, so the cartridge has to be slightly offset in the rails, which offends my sense of order, even if it has no effect on ability to set it up correctly.

3. The build quality is very good. Everything that moves, does so smoothly, and the arm has a reassuring solidity to it.

4. The price was right. It cost about $1000, which was all I could afford it the time.

I have to confess that I would like an ekos se, or even a good second hand original ekos, but I can’t see one coming my way any time soon.

 

I would be very interested in others arms, including why you have them over other options.

 

Justin

The entry level Linn branded arms are no more now that they have dropped the Project arm and Jelco have closed.

 

The Akito is about $3k and the Ekos SE, considerably more.

 

Sensibly priced known good options would probably include an Ittok, an Aro, a Nima and an Ekos 2.

[Tasebass]

47 minutes ago, Telecine said:

The entry level Linn branded arms are no more now that they have dropped the Project arm and Jelco have closed.

 

The Akito is about $3k and the Ekos SE, considerably more.

 

Sensibly priced known good options would probably include an Ittok, an Aro, a Nima and an Ekos 2.

The Kore Subchassis is available with SME/Rega geometry ......

 

https://www.linn.co.uk/sources/turntables/sub-chassis#kore

 

Tase.

[Telecine]

4 minutes ago, Tasebass said:

The Kore Subchassis is available with SME/Rega geometry ......

 

https://www.linn.co.uk/sources/turntables/sub-chassis#kore

 

Tase.

One for NAIM too.

 

SME is no more too though. 

 

It might be a bit late if you already have a Kore though.

Edited June 2, 2020 by Telecine

[Tasebass]

4 minutes ago, Telecine said:

SME is no more too though. 

 

It might be a bit late if you already have a Kore though.

True ....but the option is there.

There's a third party dealer in Sweden ( i think ) who does some nice builds using SME arms with third party Subschassis...

 

https://www.linnarts.se/

Edited June 2, 2020 by Tasebass

[Batty]

PU7 is an option too.

[JC.]

On 02/06/2020 at 3:24 PM, Tasebass said:

Wow!!  Thats some upgrades in one hit.....congrats....

I'm assuming your still gonna be running the LV111...what cartridge will you be using..?

I'd for one would be very keen on your thoughts once everything has had a chance to settle in.....( I find it takes about a week give or take a few days and depending on your daily usage )

 

Cheers Tase. 

Thanks Tase. My decision to upgrade  started with the Karousel and initially a Lingo4, but somehow the list kept on growing. Haha.

The LVIII will stay for the time being. After trying several carts I settled on an AT ART-9 about 18months. Lovely cart and Im very keen to see how it sounds after the upgrade to the LP12. 

I will consider a cart upgrade if I ever feel the need to upgrade to an Ekos SE. 

[Batty]

Here's mine.

I have a Hadcock GH228 to go on, the board is now drilled.

And a "mystery part".

 

[JC.]

On 02/06/2020 at 3:27 PM, Tasebass said:

Never had a problem with my Ekos 1....gave 16 years of great service till I traded it in against my Ekos SE.....

...wish I'd kept it TBH.......

Yeah I had heard sometime that  there were some issues with the very early ones..

 

Was the upgrade to your SE not worth the addition cost ? 

[Capone]

41 minutes ago, Batty said:

Here's mine.

I have a Hadcock GH228 to go on, the board is now drilled.

And a "mystery part".

 

Perspex Sub-Chassis?

[andyr]

4 minutes ago, Capone said:

Perspex Sub-Chassis?

 

It would appear so, yes. 

 

Now, the reason those pissy little screws are used to attach the armboard to a pressed-metal subchassis is to stop - or at least attenuate - vibrations of the subchassis from getting into the armboard ... and, hence, the arm.

 

I would suspect a perspex subchassis would 'ring' much less than a pressed-metal subchassis - so I would think this should allow the armboard to be bolted to the perspex subchassis!  (Not a good thing to do with the pressed-metal subchassis.)

 

Bolting the armboard to the subchassis gives rigidity between arm & platter - just like the Keel delivers.  Making up a perspex armboard would probably improve SQ over the standard Linn armboard.

 

Andy

 

[Batty]

Indeed, it is perspex. Should I emulate the Linn armboard dimensions? or a different thickness?

Edited June 3, 2020 by Batty

[andyr]

1 hour ago, Batty said:

Indeed, it is perspex. Should I emulate the Linn armboard dimensions? or a different thickness?

 

I would make it exactly the same dimensions, B. 

 

Andy

 

[klackto]

On 30/5/2020 at 9:07 PM, Juzbear said:

In an effort to keep this thread running:

What tonearms are people running on their LP12s, and what are the characteristics that drew you to them, and keep you loyal?

 

I currently run a Jelco 750D. I think it is clearly a better arm than the basik I used to use in terms of its sound characteristics- it sounds more solid and detailed with the same cartridge on the LP12.

 

The other things I like are:

1. Interchangeable Headshells.

2. Can be mounted on standard Linn cut out arm board, though it is very slightly longer pivot to spindle, so the cartridge has to be slightly offset in the rails, which offends my sense of order, even if it has no effect on ability to set it up correctly.

3. The build quality is very good. Everything that moves, does so smoothly, and the arm has a reassuring solidity to it.

4. The price was right. It cost about $1000, which was all I could afford it the time.

I have to confess that I would like an ekos se, or even a good second hand original ekos, but I can’t see one coming my way any time soon.

 

I would be very interested in others arms, including why you have them over other options.

 

Justin

A suggestion if you specifically want to stick with an arm that has a detachable headshell. 

A bit left of field I know but you could look for a Fidelity Research FR12 ....  it's the arm Ikeda san designed for suspended subclass turntables (namely the LP12).

It's somewhat lighter and slightly shorter than the the (more well known) FR64s and I think it suits the LP12 very well having listened to one on a Linn several times back in the day.

Probably worth getting it rewired but the good thing is they are nowhere near as expensive to buy as the FR64/66 series.

I owned one some time ago but it was years after I sold my Linn so used it on a Garrard 401 .....  it was versatile, nicely made and easy to use. 

Having said that, if I owned a Linn I'd probably have a Naim Aro on it.

[Capone]

10 hours ago, Batty said:

Indeed, it is perspex. Should I emulate the Linn armboard dimensions? or a different thickness?

Looking forward to the outcome of this

[Batty]

First I want to get it going as original as I can, I hope to do that this weekend.

[Tasebass]

21 hours ago, JC. said:

Yeah I had heard sometime that  there were some issues with the very early ones..

 

Was the upgrade to your SE not worth the addition cost ? 

Far from it!!!

The Ekos SE is a stunner.....

Tase.

[Telecine]

An interesting video on the making of a plinth for an LP12:

 

 

[vivianbl]

On 30/05/2020 at 9:07 PM, Juzbear said:

In an effort to keep this thread running:

What tonearms are people running on their LP12s, and what are the characteristics that drew you to them, and keep you loyal?

 

I currently run a Jelco 750D. I think it is clearly a better arm than the basik I used to use in terms of its sound characteristics- it sounds more solid and detailed with the same cartridge on the LP12.

 

The other things I like are:

1. Interchangeable Headshells.

2. Can be mounted on standard Linn cut out arm board, though it is very slightly longer pivot to spindle, so the cartridge has to be slightly offset in the rails, which offends my sense of order, even if it has no effect on ability to set it up correctly.

3. The build quality is very good. Everything that moves, does so smoothly, and the arm has a reassuring solidity to it.

4. The price was right. It cost about $1000, which was all I could afford it the time.

I have to confess that I would like an ekos se, or even a good second hand original ekos, but I can’t see one coming my way any time soon.

 

I would be very interested in others arms, including why you have them over other options.

 

Justin

Just found this great thread from 2014. Unfortunately, I did not find it before I placed a seperate post- Linn Sondek LP12 “2020” - a few days ago.

On the issue of tonearms used with Linn in the late 70s early 80s was a Grace 707 ( still have it in a box) with the Supex, then Ittok with the Asak.. Sold that as a unit and bought a new LP12 with an Ekos1 in 1989. Had that combo till last Tuesday (10/11)- about 31 years!. It had supported a Troika, DV XXmk2 and a Kiseki Purple Heart NS. Very fond of it! 
Amongst many other changes made in 2020 was the change to an Audio Origami PU7Ti last Tuesday. Because I made other changes at the time- Stack Audio Serene Subchassis and armboard (replacing the Cirkus Subchassis and Linn armboard)- it is difficult to attribute the profound improvement to only the new tonearm, but the combination has been very significant.
 

[qik_shift]

I think I'm close to buying a new LP12.  Seems there's lots of love for them in this thread.  I heard a mid-spec unit and loved the sound.

 

Looking at the Klimax - but without the Urika phono stage and the cart.

 

The rationale is I already have the Purple Heart, and a great phone stage which I really love (PS Audio Stellar).  I assume this is a reasonable approach?

 

 Also looking at the Radikal power supply with Klimax chassis.

 

[andyr]

28 minutes ago, qik_shift said:

I think I'm close to buying a new LP12.  Seems there's lots of love for them in this thread.  I heard a mid-spec unit and loved the sound.

 

An LP12 can deliver great sound, Chris.  Despite all the negative comments that go on here. 

 

28 minutes ago, qik_shift said:

 

Looking at the Klimax - but without the Urika phono stage and the cart.

 

The rationale is I already have the Purple Heart, and a great phone stage which I really love (PS Audio Stellar).  I assume this is a reasonable approach?

 

 

Absolutely!  AFAIAC, the Urika phono stage is so-so (it has fixed loading btw - designed for Linn carts) ... and your Purple Heart is special.  

 

28 minutes ago, qik_shift said:

 

 Also looking at the Radikal power supply with Klimax chassis.

 

 

Can I suggest Steve Tuckett's "Number9" power supply (which you can use with your existing motor) instead of the Radikule?

 

As you're in Melbourne, you can come over to listen to a 'Number9' in action.  

 

Andy

 

[qik_shift]

31 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

An LP12 can deliver great sound, Chris.  Despite all the negative comments that go on here. 

 

 

Absolutely!  AFAIAC, the Urika phono stage is so-so (it has fixed loading btw - designed for Linn carts) ... and your Purple Heart is special.  

 

 

Can I suggest Steve Tuckett's "Number9" power supply (which you can use with your existing motor) instead of the Radikule?

 

As you're in Melbourne, you can come over to listen to a 'Number9' in action.  

 

Andy

 

 

Thanks Andy  

 

Will look into the power supply - confirming this will work with the Linn DC motor fitted in the Klimax?  Any pointers/explanation as to why you would recommend this power supply over the official Linn unit? 

 

Edited November 19, 2020 by qik_shift