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Linn LP12 Owners & Discussion Thread


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You need to do the inner platter/spindle as well right?, to maintain that perfect fit.

 

What SQ improvements do you find?   I would want mote clarity/transparency - not warmth/sweetness

 

cheers

 

 

No. The inner/outer interface must remain perfect the inner platter remains as is as that's part of the bearing..

 

Yes you do gain what you say as well as dynamics.

 

Tase.

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Nah, sorry, mb - too 'polite' ... boring. ;)   Just look carefully at what Tase can do ... why not turn 'Miss Marples' into 'Evelyn Salt', with one of his super-sexy plinths?  And from the look of his pics, he seems to make them with thicker walls - which, as I found out with my own thick-walled plinth that I had Vince make for me, delivers better bass. :)

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

Delivers a whole lot more too Andy.....

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Hi Tase.

yes it is Linn 3 point mount base

regards

Duc

 

So is the effective length the same as a Linn arm ( +/- overhang ) would it be correct to assume the Univector will not mount to a Keel but a Kore sub chassis  will be OK?

 

ATBTase.

Edited by Tasebass
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So is the effective length the same as a Linn arm ( +/- overhang ) would it correct to assume the Univector will not mount to a Keel but a Kore sub chassis  will be OK?

 

ATBTase.

 

Yes ATBTase.

the Univector is almost the same effective length of the Linn arms . i don't know anything's about the Keel or the Kore Sub chassis so i have no comment on that .

regards

Duc

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Yes ATBTase.

the Univector is almost the same effective length of the Linn arms . i don't know anything's about the Keel or the Kore Sub chassis so i have no comment on that .

regards

Duc

 

Hi Duc, the 'problem' with the Keel subchassis is that Linn already make a hole for their arm geometry. :(   The Kore subchassis may have some adjustment - I'm not sure.

 

However, Linn have made Keels for Aro geometry (and I've heard they are about to do so, again) ... so is that a better match, in terms of mounting distance?

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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If the Univector is not the same Linn arm effective length and the same arm collar diameter then the Keel is not an option.

Similarly for Keel/Aro as the Univector arm mount is Linn 3 point.

 

Below shows the Ekos SE mounted to Keel via 1 grub screw only...about as simple and as good as it gets....

 

post-109454-0-97396900-1407623428_thumb.

 

This leaves the standard arm board or Kore. Kore does look like an option as the arm is mounted in the 3 point manner which may offer some adjustment.

There are also, as we know, a number of 3rd party sub chassis arm board combo's which could be considered, one being from Vinyl passion called the Utility.

 

@@lovetube.....Duc on the Univector what is the Knurled screw above the headshell for??

 

All The Best Tase!! :D  :lol:

Edited by Tasebass
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You need to do the inner platter/spindle as well right?, to maintain that perfect fit.

 

What SQ improvements do you find?   I would want mote clarity/transparency - not warmth/sweetness

 

cheers

 

Just occurred to me that a Khan top plate would improve the SQ in the direction you want MB.

 

Also there is no stress from the SS top plate anymore  that goes into the plinth....which now has a much easier time...

 

I know I have shown this before but I reckon your ARO + Red Devil would look sensational on this....

 

post-109454-0-83584900-1407625028_thumb. post-109454-0-03574800-1407625051_thumb.

 

ATBTase

 

P.S. Bet it wouldn't sound too shabby either... :)

Edited by Tasebass
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If the Univector is not the same Linn arm effective length and the same arm collar diameter then the Keel is not an option.

Similarly for Keel/Aro as the Univector arm mount is Linn 3 point.

 

Below shows the Ekos SE mounted to Keel via 1 grub screw only...about as simple and as good as it gets....

 

attachicon.gifSE mount.JPG

 

This leaves the standard arm board or Kore. Kore does look like an option as the arm is mounted in the 3 point manner which may offer some adjustment.

There are also, as we know, a number of 3rd party sub chassis arm board combo's which could be considered, one being from Vinyl passion called the Utility.

 

@@lovetube.....Duc on the Univector what is the Knurled screw above the headshell for??

 

All The Best Tase!! :D  :lol:

 

HI Tase.

ah now i know a little more on those . if this is the case then I can custom made the Univector to suit the Keel or the Kore Chassis . but i do need some official measurement to do so.

the Knurled Screw above the headshell is for fingers grip as it is being tighten by hand so you need the Knurl for that job.however it also serve another purpose which is add mass to the arm.

you got me on your sign :)

cheers

Duc

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HI Tase.

ah now i know a little more on those . if this is the case then I can custom made the Univector to suit the Keel or the Kore Chassis . but i do need some official measurement to do so.

the Knurled Screw above the headshell is for fingers grip as it is being tighten by hand so you need the Knurl for that job.however it also serve another purpose which is add mass to the arm.

you got me on your sign :)

cheers

Duc

 

Duc,

 

I reckon if you can offer a Univector arm single point mounting to a Keel same as the Ekos/SE......you will be a very busy Man!!

 

are you familiar with Naim's Aro??

 

ATBTase.

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Duc,

 

I reckon if you can offer a Univector arm single point mounting to a Keel same as the Ekos/SE......you will be a very busy Man!!

 

are you familiar with Naim's Aro??

 

ATBTase.

 

Hi Tase.

yes I do consider about this already and i need to come up with something's better if i would .

Naim Aro arm yes i know a little bit about the arm but never seen one in the fresh through .

regards

Duc

Edited by lovetube
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How do you polish it or rather what do you use?

 

Once the original lacquer finish has been breached, it's trashed.

 

1. Send it Vince at Once Analog and have him turn a new exterior. Polish with fine polish, cloth wrapped on a hard block, clean with isopropyl alcohol. Coat with a good lacquer made for non-ferrous metals--there are a few. Do at least 2 or 3 thin coats.

 

2. Sit the platter on your lap and slowly rotate it while dressing it **carefully** (around--not up and down) with some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped on a hard block of wood. Use gradually finer paper until you get sheen you want. A good polish if you want a mirror finish or just a few rotations to take off the harsh edges of the scratches. Coat with lacquer as above.

 

I have two LP 12s, one done each way. If you are careful the home version can be done in an hour or so--drying time not included.

 

The lacquer is a necessity 'cause the platter material tarnishes in oxygen, and finger marks will eat into the surface. (Guess how I know!)

 

Greg

Edited by GregWormald
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I always thought the original LP12 was very attractive, I would be very proud to show it off if I owned one, but some of these custom paint jobs are absolutely beautiful, well done guys.

 

My goal was to an alternative to timber.........

 

I hope to have a few more "pimped" decks, ( and speakers!!) just time at the moment is scarce........and I have a few "restos" to complete!! ;)

 

Cheers Tase.

Edited by Tasebass
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My goal was to (make) an alternative to timber.........

 

 

Cheers Tase.

 

I assume you mean an alternative finish to timber, Tase?  Or are you not making your lovely plinths out of hardwood? :confused:  (Underneath all that bling. ;) )

 

Andy

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I assume you mean an alternative finish to timber, Tase?  Or are you not making your lovely plinths out of hardwood? :confused:  (Underneath all that bling. ;) )

 

Andy

 

OOOO No Andy.

What I have learnt over the last 15 months or so timber is gone.. There are enough options around with regards to wood...

 

To be Honest I'm waiting for Tangerine to release their Stiletto, just hope my ideas differ from theirs......all in good fun of course..

 

Cheers Tase.

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OOOO No Andy.

What I have learnt over the last 15 months or so timber is gone.. There are enough options around with regards to wood...

 

To be Honest I'm waiting for Tangerine to release their Stiletto, just hope my ideas differ from theirs......all in good fun of course..

 

Cheers Tase.

 

Aah, OK ... so you make non-wood plinths, Tase!  Sensational!! :thumb:

 

Andy

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  • 1 month later...

maintenance for whatever reasons was in my head  today so I decide a thorough clean for the Lady was in order....

 

noticed the inner platter needed a fair polish  so off I went....

 

post-109454-0-89700300-1411903031_thumb. post-109454-0-41471900-1411903045_thumb.

 

 the rim where the belt sits was not the best so I spend a bit of time in this area....slack a I am should not let this happen.... :eek:

 

Results...?...well just that little bit more of everything really. definitely worth giving a go...and keeping on top of.

 

gave the belt a thorough clean and check aswell...... ;)

 

ATBTase. 

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How do you go about that TB? What do you use to polish it up?

 I'm lazy so I use a small air polisher with Feracla G3ultra then G10 finishing compound...... no wax!!!

 

TBO Luc any car paint cutting compound will do. Supercheap auto's will have something. vigorously rub the rim until shiny so to speak.

 

DONT use Brasso!!!

 

Have fun Tase. :)  

 

P.S. check your motor pulley as well!!!

Edited by Tasebass
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  • 2 months later...


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