Jump to content

Discussion of all things Sondek..good,bad or ugly!!


Recommended Posts

Well someone had to...phono stages are out though except Urika.

 

@@andyr..I demo'd the lingo 1 and Naim's Armageddon way back when much preferring the Naim PS.

 

Dosn't surprise me your mate prefers the basic or Valhalla PS 

 

lets keep this going here Guys...all Linnies chip in... ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 603
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Well my Tranquility arrived yesterday, took just over a week from the UK. I installed it this morning, pretty easy really, although instructions could be better. I didn't have to adjust the

Well... picked up the autosol yesterday and a hard polish and scotch session late here is the result   Before:     after:  

Here you go Tase       Yes, platter needs a polish     Mana table is great stuff for the LP12    

I also owned the original  Lingo and Naim Armageddon.   The Naim played tunes better, especially with Naim amps. 

 

Longer term I felt the Lingo was more neutral and transparent. And it played 45rpm :)   I still own the Lingo.

 

The Naim ARO tonearm has a  natural delivery of the music that made the Ekos sound HiFi in comparison. Bear in mind this was with Naim amps and SBL's.  Not sure what would sound better today :eek:

 

This summations and debates can go on forever - trampoline or nothing but the old screw in feet?

Edited by metal beat
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Through a twist of fate I've got a second LP12 squirreled away in the cave and it's a dirty one and quite old, can't see the serial number externally so I guess it might be underneath the thing. It's got an Ittok LV11 on it and it's dull gray and pitted looking on the exterior.

 

Any ideas/advice on how to clean it up if that is indeed possible?

Link to post
Share on other sites


Through a twist of fate I've got a second LP12 squirreled away in the cave and it's a dirty one and quite old, can't see the serial number externally so I guess it might be underneath the thing. It's got an Ittok LV11 on it and it's dull gray and pitted looking on the exterior.

 

Any ideas/advice on how to clean it up if that is indeed possible?

Just about to have dinner but pm me tommorow  to remind me Lee and we can get started .

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Through a twist of fate I've got a second LP12 squirreled away in the cave and it's a dirty one and quite old, can't see the serial number externally so I guess it might be underneath the thing. It's got an Ittok LV11 on it and it's dull gray and pitted looking on the exterior.

 

Any ideas/advice on how to clean it up if that is indeed possible?

 post some images Luc....the serial number would be stamped underside of the SS top plate. you might see it if you remove the baseboard

 

Tase.

 

or PM Ozcall

Edited by Tasebass
Link to post
Share on other sites

Righto, I'll take some later, it's a pretty early model and comes from a smokers household so it stinks like an ashtray, hopefully I can get that out with some orange oil.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The ARO has a cult following for sure.I never quite got it though preferring the Ekos.

 

you still running this set up?? ;)

 

Yes, LP12, Circus, Trampo, Naim Aro, ESC'd Linn Troika on a 3 tier Mana stand.      Going to put the dyna XV-1s on the ARO soon as it is off my DD table currently.

 

Cheers

Edited by metal beat
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


Yes, LP12, Circus, Trampo, Naim Aro, ESC'd Linn Troika on a 3 tier Mana stand.      Going to put the dyna XV-1s on the ARO soon as it is off my DD table currently.

 

Cheers

 

Aah, you need a Tase-pimped plinth, Shane. ;)  It may not make your LP12 sound better ... but it will make it look sexy! :thumb:

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's my Deck cranking out "Hemispheres" 

 

post-109454-0-74715500-1407582161_thumb.

 

Thoughts are seriously turning to this...

 

post-109454-0-48627300-1407582221_thumb. post-109454-0-36766800-1407582241_thumb. post-109454-0-13400300-1407582267_thumb. 

 

I have a new motor and Geddon PS, thoughts are on a Kore sub chassis and a 9inch Univector arm from duc ....that should please Andy!! :lol:

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aah, you need a Tase-pimped plinth, Shane. ;)  It may not make your LP12 sound better ... but it will make it look sexy! :thumb:

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

ooooo I bet it would.... :P

Link to post
Share on other sites


Here's my Deck cranking out "Hemispheres" 

 

attachicon.gifhem 1.JPG

 

I have a new motor and Geddon PS, thoughts are on a Kore sub chassis and a 9inch Univector arm from duc ....that should please Andy!! :lol:

 

Mate, I strongly recommend you put an @@lovetube Univector on it ... it will sound magnificent!! ;)  But the Univector is 9.5" - not 9" ... is that a problem for the Linn armboard dimensions?

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Through a twist of fate I've got a second LP12 squirreled away in the cave and it's a dirty one and quite old, can't see the serial number externally so I guess it might be underneath the thing. It's got an Ittok LV11 on it and it's dull gray and pitted looking on the exterior.

 

Any ideas/advice on how to clean it up if that is indeed possible?

Gee your lucky, two LP12's :P that old one should clean up ok with some TLC.
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mate, I strongly recommend you put an @@lovetube Univector on it ... it will sound magnificent!! ;)  But the Univector is 9.5" - not 9" ... is that a problem for the Linn armboard dimensions?

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

I'll PM Duc to see if the dimensions are OK.....unless He sees this and can comment.

 

The arm seems close to a Naim ARO.

 

Tase.

 

P.S. you bought that radikal yet!!! :lol:  

Link to post
Share on other sites


whats better than having one sondek..... :)

It's like having a hangover without the fun of the drinking...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got any photo's MB ;)

 

Here you go Tase

 

 

8551447930_b8c525b5cf_b.jpg

 

Yes, platter needs a polish :)

 

8550284875_78e6542b18_b.jpg

 

Mana table is great stuff for the LP12

 

 

8550343453_554d20c54f_b.jpg

Edited by metal beat
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you polish it or rather what do you use?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here you go Tase

 

 

 

lovely.......I wouldn't touch that plinth as it looks great.....however I know a Guy who can do something with your platter!! ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

lovely.......I wouldn't touch that plinth as it looks great.....however I know a Guy who can do something with your platter!! ;)

 

ta, table bought new in 03/85 and then, like all Linn owners -  many Linn upgrades. Always looked after like a baby     Platter person is you? :D

Edited by metal beat
Link to post
Share on other sites

Platter person is you? :D

 

Yep!!... got 3 of them at the moment, been messing around a lot in this area as its one that receives little attention except for polishing. yours has signs of corrosion which can be looked at depending on the depth of pitting. I'll be coating a few more soon as I have found the SQ improves!!!

Edited by Tasebass
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep!!... got 3 of them at the moment, been messing around a lot in this area as its one that receives little attention except for polishing. yours has signs of corrosion which can be looked at depending on the depth of pitting. I'll be coating a few more soon as I have found the SQ improves!!!

 

You need to do the inner platter/spindle as well right?, to maintain that perfect fit.

 

What SQ improvements do you find?   I would want mote clarity/transparency - not warmth/sweetness

 

cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll PM Duc to see if the dimensions are OK.....unless He sees this and can comment.

 

The arm seems close to a Naim ARO.

 

Tase.

 

P.S. you bought that radikal yet!!! :lol:  

 

Hi Tase.

the Naim Aro Mounting distance is 212.5mm . the Univector 9.5"  Mounting distance s 224.xx mm.

so for Linn LP12 mount the Univector is possible with a new arm Board .

regards

Duc

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

8550343453_554d20c54f_b.jpg

 

 

Nah, sorry, mb - too 'polite' ... boring. ;)   Just look carefully at what Tase can do ... why not turn 'Miss Marples' into 'Evelyn Salt', with one of his super-sexy plinths?  And from the look of his pics, he seems to make them with thicker walls - which, as I found out with my own thick-walled plinth that I had Vince make for me, delivers better bass. :)

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

...so how do you clean them?

 

a good quality car wax with cheese cloth, you don't want to remove the very thin lacquer ....damps down static too.

 

If it is dulled I use a Farecla product and an air polisher however it is inevitable you will remove the thin lacquer layer so a wax after is essential

I don't use anything too aggressive as the Mazak alloy is quite soft. .

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tase.

the Naim Aro Mounting distance is 212.5mm . the Univector 9.5"  Mounting distance s 224.xx mm.

so for Linn LP12 mount the Univector is possible with a new arm Board .

regards

Duc

 

The univector is a Linn mount already duc Yeah??

 

ATBTase.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to do the inner platter/spindle as well right?, to maintain that perfect fit.

 

What SQ improvements do you find?   I would want mote clarity/transparency - not warmth/sweetness

 

cheers

 

 

No. The inner/outer interface must remain perfect the inner platter remains as is as that's part of the bearing..

 

Yes you do gain what you say as well as dynamics.

 

Tase.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah, sorry, mb - too 'polite' ... boring. ;)   Just look carefully at what Tase can do ... why not turn 'Miss Marples' into 'Evelyn Salt', with one of his super-sexy plinths?  And from the look of his pics, he seems to make them with thicker walls - which, as I found out with my own thick-walled plinth that I had Vince make for me, delivers better bass. :)

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

Delivers a whole lot more too Andy.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tase.

yes it is Linn 3 point mount base

regards

Duc

 

So is the effective length the same as a Linn arm ( +/- overhang ) would it be correct to assume the Univector will not mount to a Keel but a Kore sub chassis  will be OK?

 

ATBTase.

Edited by Tasebass
Link to post
Share on other sites

So is the effective length the same as a Linn arm ( +/- overhang ) would it correct to assume the Univector will not mount to a Keel but a Kore sub chassis  will be OK?

 

ATBTase.

 

Yes ATBTase.

the Univector is almost the same effective length of the Linn arms . i don't know anything's about the Keel or the Kore Sub chassis so i have no comment on that .

regards

Duc

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes ATBTase.

the Univector is almost the same effective length of the Linn arms . i don't know anything's about the Keel or the Kore Sub chassis so i have no comment on that .

regards

Duc

 

Hi Duc, the 'problem' with the Keel subchassis is that Linn already make a hole for their arm geometry. :(   The Kore subchassis may have some adjustment - I'm not sure.

 

However, Linn have made Keels for Aro geometry (and I've heard they are about to do so, again) ... so is that a better match, in terms of mounting distance?

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

If the Univector is not the same Linn arm effective length and the same arm collar diameter then the Keel is not an option.

Similarly for Keel/Aro as the Univector arm mount is Linn 3 point.

 

Below shows the Ekos SE mounted to Keel via 1 grub screw only...about as simple and as good as it gets....

 

post-109454-0-97396900-1407623428_thumb.

 

This leaves the standard arm board or Kore. Kore does look like an option as the arm is mounted in the 3 point manner which may offer some adjustment.

There are also, as we know, a number of 3rd party sub chassis arm board combo's which could be considered, one being from Vinyl passion called the Utility.

 

@@lovetube.....Duc on the Univector what is the Knurled screw above the headshell for??

 

All The Best Tase!! :D  :lol:

Edited by Tasebass
Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to do the inner platter/spindle as well right?, to maintain that perfect fit.

 

What SQ improvements do you find?   I would want mote clarity/transparency - not warmth/sweetness

 

cheers

 

Just occurred to me that a Khan top plate would improve the SQ in the direction you want MB.

 

Also there is no stress from the SS top plate anymore  that goes into the plinth....which now has a much easier time...

 

I know I have shown this before but I reckon your ARO + Red Devil would look sensational on this....

 

post-109454-0-83584900-1407625028_thumb. post-109454-0-03574800-1407625051_thumb.

 

ATBTase

 

P.S. Bet it wouldn't sound too shabby either... :)

Edited by Tasebass
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

If the Univector is not the same Linn arm effective length and the same arm collar diameter then the Keel is not an option.

Similarly for Keel/Aro as the Univector arm mount is Linn 3 point.

 

Below shows the Ekos SE mounted to Keel via 1 grub screw only...about as simple and as good as it gets....

 

attachicon.gifSE mount.JPG

 

This leaves the standard arm board or Kore. Kore does look like an option as the arm is mounted in the 3 point manner which may offer some adjustment.

There are also, as we know, a number of 3rd party sub chassis arm board combo's which could be considered, one being from Vinyl passion called the Utility.

 

@@lovetube.....Duc on the Univector what is the Knurled screw above the headshell for??

 

All The Best Tase!! :D  :lol:

 

HI Tase.

ah now i know a little more on those . if this is the case then I can custom made the Univector to suit the Keel or the Kore Chassis . but i do need some official measurement to do so.

the Knurled Screw above the headshell is for fingers grip as it is being tighten by hand so you need the Knurl for that job.however it also serve another purpose which is add mass to the arm.

you got me on your sign :)

cheers

Duc

Link to post
Share on other sites

HI Tase.

ah now i know a little more on those . if this is the case then I can custom made the Univector to suit the Keel or the Kore Chassis . but i do need some official measurement to do so.

the Knurled Screw above the headshell is for fingers grip as it is being tighten by hand so you need the Knurl for that job.however it also serve another purpose which is add mass to the arm.

you got me on your sign :)

cheers

Duc

 

Duc,

 

I reckon if you can offer a Univector arm single point mounting to a Keel same as the Ekos/SE......you will be a very busy Man!!

 

are you familiar with Naim's Aro??

 

ATBTase.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Duc,

 

I reckon if you can offer a Univector arm single point mounting to a Keel same as the Ekos/SE......you will be a very busy Man!!

 

are you familiar with Naim's Aro??

 

ATBTase.

 

Hi Tase.

yes I do consider about this already and i need to come up with something's better if i would .

Naim Aro arm yes i know a little bit about the arm but never seen one in the fresh through .

regards

Duc

Edited by lovetube
Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you polish it or rather what do you use?

 

Once the original lacquer finish has been breached, it's trashed.

 

1. Send it Vince at Once Analog and have him turn a new exterior. Polish with fine polish, cloth wrapped on a hard block, clean with isopropyl alcohol. Coat with a good lacquer made for non-ferrous metals--there are a few. Do at least 2 or 3 thin coats.

 

2. Sit the platter on your lap and slowly rotate it while dressing it **carefully** (around--not up and down) with some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped on a hard block of wood. Use gradually finer paper until you get sheen you want. A good polish if you want a mirror finish or just a few rotations to take off the harsh edges of the scratches. Coat with lacquer as above.

 

I have two LP 12s, one done each way. If you are careful the home version can be done in an hour or so--drying time not included.

 

The lacquer is a necessity 'cause the platter material tarnishes in oxygen, and finger marks will eat into the surface. (Guess how I know!)

 

Greg

Edited by GregWormald
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...