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Another Troels Gravesen's DTQWT Project Build

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Finally finished this epic thread. Wow Sierra, those are some beautiful cabinets you have built. The planning that must have gone into this purchase really shows in the end result you have achieved. I'm stoked to hear that you have resisted the urge to try and upgrade them and that you are enjoying them. I'm going to head over to caa and see if you have a build on that falcon of yours to read as well. Cheers ben

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I forgot about this ....

 

attachicon.gifBorneras 005.jpg

 

 

I must produce a support for the four terminal blocks, luckily Troels alerted to the problem just make holes and then soldering ....

I guess how difficult it can be welded through the bottom hole Deltalite 2510 ......

 

I like this work of Nicola. I think I'll do well  :thumb:

 

attachicon.gifdtqwt-nicola-06.jpg

 

What material is it? Anodized aluminum?

And we must do something to prevent short circuit, plastic washers that can be embedded in the plate .....

 

 

 

January and February around here is summer and time to rest.

Many people on vacation.

For there too?

They're all gone?  :o

 

Your crossover builds are looking good Rolando!

 

I didn't like the binding posts supplied in the kit so here is what I used instead (just in case you missed it in previous pages here)

 

I ordered the binding posts and plate from Jantzen contained in the PDF file here ... the engraving I got custom made.

 

 

post-103929-0-65271600-1422455061_thumb.

 

post-103929-0-69426900-1422455076_thumb.

 

 

 

I used clear silicone in the end, had a lot of success in general construction. I did dowel the 2 big heavy wax coils for safety though, all the more reason for external crossovers, at least you see the bits fall off over time:)

What is possibly a stupid question, did you only use the 2.5mm black cable for running between the crossover and the bass units and the black/red for all the rest?

I've done the same as Sierra and added the small runs of terminal strips one each crossover to help make final connections more straightforward, great idea, and I won't have enough to do anything else.

 

Re the HMQ driver the thickness of the rim is 5mm, the face does have a shallow convex face from that point. From the back side of the rim to the backside of the magnet is 92mm if that helps you out.

 

Wilson Art are a laminate company, same as Formica and they have a range of solid surface materials, much the same as Corian, the most well known solid surface material, it's normally used for kitchen counter tops and is a man made alternative to granite, you can can get nice molded shapes with it.

 

Holy crap didn't realise those caps went for that much, lets hope they're worth it!

 

Your crossovers are looking great too Stu ... glad you liked my idea of the separate terminal strip for input/output connections ... it sure does make things easier and less chance of making a mistake when doing the final connections.

 

 

 

Finally finished this epic thread. Wow Sierra, those are some beautiful cabinets you have built. The planning that must have gone into this purchase really shows in the end result you have achieved. I'm stoked to hear that you have resisted the urge to try and upgrade them and that you are enjoying them. I'm going to head over to caa and see if you have a build on that falcon of yours to read as well. Cheers ben

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thank you for your kind words Ben, much appreciated!

Yeah a bit of planning and a lot of head scratcing went into it that's for sure ... glad you enjoyed the read   :)

 

Perhaps a future project for yourself as well?

 

 

Yes I have a build thread on the XR6 over on CAA ... be warned it's longer than this one   :P

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Your crossover builds are looking good Rolando!

 

I didn't like the binding posts supplied in the kit so here is what I used instead (just in case you missed it in previous pages here)

 

I ordered the binding posts and plate from Jantzen contained in the PDF file here ... the engraving I got custom made.

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Sierra

 

 

In fact, did not see that section of terminal block Jantzen Audio ...

I remember seeing a picture of your terminal blocks, but I never imagined that were provided for them ....

Well, I'm really busy with many things, which makes the construction of the acoustic boxes are late, but I bet that before the end of the current year will be ready !!! :D

What I miss is to replace terminals the tapes of the wax coils in the crossover for cables, I would have worked perfectly as they were before, but I did not like too much in sight ... so I was enjoying myself a little .....

 

Regards friend !  ;)  

 

I can not access the link of your new job, is that correct?  :(

post-144598-0-20129600-1422494604_thumb.

post-144598-0-41927300-1422494725_thumb.

Edited by arpavieja78

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I can not access the link of your new job, is that correct?  :(

 

sorry, we have to register to access .......... :rolleyes:

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I sorry, we have to register to access .......... :rolleyes:

 

APOLOGIES, repeated ADDED ANOTHER PHOTO HERE TO COMPENSATE ...........

post-144598-0-02930100-1422496076_thumb.

Edited by arpavieja78

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I'm trying to get a little safer washers, go for metal board for binding post  ..... :angry:

post-144598-0-87824100-1422496240_thumb.

post-144598-0-49899700-1422496277_thumb.

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Hi Rolando ...

 

I very much like the change to your crossovers ... trimming the copper strips and using cable instead look much neater  :)

 

 

However I would not use the binding posts you have with a metal plate and trying to fabricate insulating washers.

Those binding posts are designed to be used in timber and not metal.

They are supplied with the kit because in Troel's prototype he had them going through timber.

 

Even if you are able to make snug fitting insulators you will have a difficult time trying to stop the complete post from turning once you connect speaker leads and apply some pressure to the thumb screw as there is no positive lock on the knurled part of the post that would normally "grip" into the timber ... trying to mount it through metal there is nothing for the knurled part to grip and it will slip turning the whole post as well as the thumb screw.

 

I know it's additional expense ... but I would recomend that you buy the correct binding post designed to be mounted in a metal plate ... save you a lot of frustration and work.   :)

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Sierra, I understand perfectly what you say, I have suffered this problem that is rotated around the terminal when I upgrade the xover of my vintage JBL, and was quite difficult.

The problem is not just spending, ask borneras new to Jantzen from Argentina is somewhat cumbersome, I've had the experience.

I think the best (but not be so nice, but this is DIY) will use a sheet of plywood and binding post provided.

I do not want to complicate too much, the main thing is that you can weld the binding post first and then install and tighten the plate.

Thank you very much for your tips are greatly appreciated, and these terminals are really wonderful !

 

 

Regards !

 

Rolando  

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Larry from van der Sluys Joinery is making my cabinets and is doing a sterling job.  Going to see him this morning to deliver some bits and discuss the build.  The hold up at the moment is Janzen who have no tweeter wave guides and subsequently have still not shipped my kit.  Apologies that photos are a bit out of sequence.

post-104459-0-45789500-1422658675_thumb.

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post-104459-0-37079300-1422658756_thumb.

post-104459-0-70145400-1422658765_thumb.

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WINEDS, you'd be aware that Speakerbug are Jantzen's reps here in Aus: have you explored the possibility of getting your waveguides from there, if in stock?

 

http://speakerbug.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=418

 

I note that the version drilled and tapped for the T35 tweeter is the same price, so would advise anybody to get it, whatever tweeter choice is initially made! (I'm just about to attempt the drilling/tapping again, in my other project...)

 

Looks like 24mm Baltic Birch? Were you able to get the grade without knot repairs in the outer plies? I wasn't, in my last order from Melbourne.

 

Your builder looks like he's got the right gear - that all those joints work in one go is a miracle of modern tools and skills. Good idea, making that template for the inner panel placement.

Edited by BioBrian

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Hi Brian, WINEDS asked me to build the boxes for him, and yes , it is 24mm birch ply with patches only on the back. Purchased from Cabinet Timbers in Melbourne. The inner template was helpful in locating the folded panels .

I also have all the angles noted on the templates for any future builds.

Cheers, Larry.

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WINEDS, you'd be aware that Speakerbug are Jantzen's reps here in Aus: have you explored the possibility of getting your waveguides from there, if in stock?

 

http://speakerbug.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=418

 

I note that the version drilled and tapped for the T35 tweeter is the same price, so would advise anybody to get it, whatever tweeter choice is initially made! (I'm just about to attempt the drilling/tapping again, in my other project...)

 

 

Sorry, Nope, don't have any in stock.

Haven't had anyone ask for them for a looooooooong time, so they go into the 'less important' category at present.

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Thanks van der. It did cross my mind that you could hire out that template! I did mine by routing grooves in one side panel, which I think I'd do again.

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Sierra, I understand perfectly what you say, I have suffered this problem that is rotated around the terminal when I upgrade the xover of my vintage JBL, and was quite difficult.

The problem is not just spending, ask borneras new to Jantzen from Argentina is somewhat cumbersome, I've had the experience.

I think the best (but not be so nice, but this is DIY) will use a sheet of plywood and binding post provided.

I do not want to complicate too much, the main thing is that you can weld the binding post first and then install and tighten the plate.

Thank you very much for your tips are greatly appreciated, and these terminals are really wonderful !

 

 

Regards !

 

Rolando  

 

I think I understand what you mean about using a sheet of plywood and the binding post provided ... I forgot that you have difficulty with Jantzen shipping to Argentina.

 

Those same Dayton Audio binding post are also available direct from Dayton Audio or you can get them from Parts Express or other places as well ... perhaps they have less problem shipping to Argentina.   :)

 

 

 

 

Larry from van der Sluys Joinery is making my cabinets and is doing a sterling job.  Going to see him this morning to deliver some bits and discuss the build.  The hold up at the moment is Janzen who have no tweeter wave guides and subsequently have still not shipped my kit.  Apologies that photos are a bit out of sequence.

 

Looking good WINEDS ... thanks for the pictures.

 

 

 

 

Hi Brian, WINEDS asked me to build the boxes for him, and yes , it is 24mm birch ply with patches only on the back. Purchased from Cabinet Timbers in Melbourne. The inner template was helpful in locating the folded panels .

I also have all the angles noted on the templates for any future builds.

Cheers, Larry.

 

I'll echo Brian's comments Larry ... the cabinet build is comming along great ... those 45 deg joins look spot on.

 

Might be an idea to hang onto any templates you make ... you never know ... you might have other customers requesting to have cabinets built.

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Alan.

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Rolando, why not go the easiest way, as Troels has done in his Mk3? Just a wooden bar along the bottom, with your 'wood' binder posts. As he says: shorter wires, which surely is the 'bottom line'. It makes a lot of sense to me, and I can't see any reason to go to so much trouble with plates, insulators, holes where they should not be, and negotiation with felt and other soft bits.

 

If you want a plaque, it's easy to stick one on the outside, wherever you like.

 

I really love Sierra's version (especially the fonts, particularly the letter 'G'), but we have official permission/encouragement to take the new way!

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Rolando, why not go the easiest way, as Troels has done in his Mk3? Just a wooden bar along the bottom, with your 'wood' binder posts. As he says: shorter wires, which surely is the 'bottom line'. It makes a lot of sense to me, and I can't see any reason to go to so much trouble with plates, insulators, holes where they should not be, and negotiation with felt and other soft bits.

 

If you want a plaque, it's easy to stick one on the outside, wherever you like.

 

I really love Sierra's version (especially the fonts, particularly the letter 'G'), but we have official permission/encouragement to take the new way!

 

 

Bio Brian, thank you, ;) is a very good suggestion, but I've been considering and find to be calculated exactly the distance between the posts for the jumpers, unless we use bi-amping, as in my case. And a bridge should go above and one below ... And my taste is very next to the floor.

I think it will amuse me a little, metal working as well as it does Sierra :) 

it's still an excellent choice for not complicated as you say !  :thumb:

 

And the idea is to do something like the Sierra / Jantzen, black background and white font version, see how it goes. :rolleyes:

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Sierra says :

 

"  I think I understand what you mean about using a sheet of plywood and the binding post provided ... I forgot that you have difficulty with Jantzen shipping to Argentina.

Those same Dayton Audio binding post are also available direct from Dayton Audio or you can get them from Parts Express or other places as well ... perhaps they have less problem shipping to Argentina. "

 

 

 

The situation is that the import rules are here:
Two orders per year and per person and maximum 1000 U$S between them. I want to order a Shanling CD 2.1, (I liked the review and modification of Troels) and my two cartridges are reserved ..... :lol: 

This is what you get, take it or leave it .... :P

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Larry from van der Sluys Joinery is making my cabinets and is doing a sterling job.  Going to see him this morning to deliver some bits and discuss the build.  The hold up at the moment is Janzen who have no tweeter wave guides and subsequently have still not shipped my kit.  Apologies that photos are a bit out of sequence.

 

 

These people know what it does, there is no doubt. :thumb: 

A real wood shop, all the tools and experienced, the result has to be good! :)

Congratulations!

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Sierra says :

 

"  I think I understand what you mean about using a sheet of plywood and the binding post provided ... I forgot that you have difficulty with Jantzen shipping to Argentina.

Those same Dayton Audio binding post are also available direct from Dayton Audio or you can get them from Parts Express or other places as well ... perhaps they have less problem shipping to Argentina. "

 

 

 

The situation is that the import rules are here:

Two orders per year and per person and maximum 1000 U$S between them. I want to order a Shanling CD 2.1, (I liked the review and modification of Troels) and my two cartridges are reserved ..... :lol:

This is what you get, take it or leave it .... :P

 

Oh ... I see ... import rules ...

 

Thats not good at all  :(

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The situation is that the import rules are here:

Two orders per year and per person and maximum 1000 U$S between them. I want to order a Shanling CD 2.1, (I liked the review and modification of Troels) and my two cartridges are reserved ..... :lol:

This is what you get, take it or leave it .... :P

 

Think again about that shanling.

 

If (when) it needs any sort of service work, unless you bought it from an authorised dealer in your country, it will become a paper weight.

The only people with any info on them is the agent.

If the agent didnt sell it, they won't help you.

they have propriety control i.c.'s.

If that needs updating or replacing. your sunk.....

 

Be VERY cautious about that company.

 

And yes there are many more companies with such protectionism built in.

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Think again about that shanling.

 

If (when) it needs any sort of service work, unless you bought it from an authorised dealer in your country, it will become a paper weight.

The only people with any info on them is the agent.

If the agent didnt sell it, they won't help you.

they have propriety control i.c.'s.

If that needs updating or replacing. your sunk.....

 

Be VERY cautious about that company.

 

And yes there are many more companies with such protectionism built in.

Is that you had a bad experience with the brand?

What can you recommend cd player of 

USA market with valvular out ?

Thanks for the tips are appreciated

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I have experience of them yes.

I have experience of some bits of gear.

By no means do I know enough to make any recommendations.

 

I have heard an old marantz cd94 mk2.

it was on par with an concenence droplet (hope i got that right).

If you can find one of these cd94's. youll save a bundle.

 

Other players may be better, I don't know.

 

other brands also have to my mind anti competitive behaviour.

 

Usa ? you know shanling are chinese dont you ? (as are many brands now)

 

I'm just trying to say, before you throw a bunch of money on something, make sure you can get it fixed without selling both kidneys and a liver. That is IF you can get it fixed at all.....

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I have experience of them yes.

I have experience of some bits of gear.

-----------------------------

I have heard an old marantz cd94 mk2.

it was on par with an concenence droplet (hope i got that right).

If you can find one of these cd94's. youll save a bundle.

------------------------------------

 

Usa ? you know shanling are chinese dont you ? (as are many brands now)

------------------------------------------

I'm just trying to say, before you throw a bunch of money on something, make sure you can get it fixed without selling both kidneys and a liver. That is IF you can get it fixed at all.....

 

 

I guess finding a MarantzCD94 in good condition would be a miracle, not just around here, but around the world ..... I read a review, it is 1987, are many years of work

 

http://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/review/Marantz-CD94-CDplayer-CDA94-DA-Converter/

 

Although I have to be honest, my Technics SLPG-300 predates think .... I'm not sure. But still working properly.

 

 

 

I thought that transport was 2.1 Shanling CD Phillips, and I see that is Sanyo ...

 

http://www.charismaaudio.com/?page_id=1078

 

 

 

I know it is Chinese, but I want to buy via E-bay USA, pay less freight in Europe, Asia or Australia.

I'm also considering buying a CD-Player Yamaha CD-S700 here ......

 

 http://www.audio-net.com.ar/reproductorescd.html

 

 

.....and add a line stage valve in the line out ..... for it is not necessary to sell organs of my body .... :P

Well, thank green wagon, :thumb:  and my apologies to all for the off-topic :D

Edited by arpavieja78

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Even if you are able to make snug fitting insulators you will have a difficult time trying to stop the complete post from turning once you connect speaker leads and apply some pressure to the thumb screw as there is no positive lock on the knurled part of the post that would normally "grip" into the timber ... trying to mount it through metal there is nothing for the knurled part to grip and it will slip turning the whole post as well as the thumb screw.

 

I know it's additional expense ... but I would recomend that you buy the correct binding post designed to be mounted in a metal plate ... save you a lot of frustration and work.   :)

 

 

You may believe that here (see photo) JBL did not foresee the problem you accountable? Was necessary to lock on one side and tightening the other trying the post is centered. Well, if it happened to them, I think I will be excused if it happens to me too and knowing the problem!

Anyway, and evaluating all alternatives available to me (no commission new to Jantzen), I decided to have some fun.

 

 

 

Rolando, why not go the easiest way, as Troels has done in his Mk3? Just a wooden bar along the bottom, with your 'wood' binder posts. As he says: shorter wires, which surely is the 'bottom line'. It makes a lot of sense to me, and I can't see any reason to go to so much trouble with plates, insulators, holes where they should not be, and negotiation with felt and other soft bits.

 

If you want a plaque, it's easy to stick one on the outside, wherever you like.

 

I really love Sierra's version (especially the fonts, particularly the letter 'G'), but we have official permission/encouragement to take the new way!

 

Brian, I agree that the best "traditional" option on the back wall of the cabinet is the sheet metal. Thin and looks good aesthetically. I have no doubt that I can tighten them firmly without because it will turn out, then welded and bolted.

For here we have a saying:

"If there is misery, try not to see"  :D

 

Regards friends  ;)

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