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Another Troels Gravesen's DTQWT Project Build


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Hi All,

Not too long ago I decided it was time resurect my home audio system that I had done nothing with for the last decade or so.

One part of the resurection process was the purchase and building of a new valve amp kit.

Once the valve amp was built and some listening was done it became obvious that my 30 yo speakers also needed some attention.

The speakers are 3 way bass reflex with a satelite midrange & tweeter arrangement which in their day sounded really good ... although there were always a

couple of issues with bass output rolling off in the lower registers and fatigue setting in after prolonged listening.

Yes ... definately time for a change.

First up I had a look in the SNA for sale section to see what was around and within my budget ... not a lot was there at the time.

Then I thought DYI ... and Troel's website came to mind and the fact that I hadn't visited it for a couple of years at least.

I was really surprised when I saw how many different speaker designs he has now ... and I got excited when I saw he had a range of "High efficiency"

speakers desighned for valve amplification.

First up I looked at the TQWT project and thought yeah ... this is a nice looking speaker and just what I was after.

... and then I saw it ... the DTQWT!!!!

As I read more about the DTQWT the more I knew I had to build it ...

Then I started reading the user builds of the DTQWT from around the globe and the great comments it was recieving.

One of those user build links brought me back here to buzz lightyear's DTQWT build thread.

After reading all the great comments from all that have heard his speakers I knew I had made the right decision ... and time to start the ball rolling.

So I contacted the kit distributor Jantzen Audio in Denmark to place my order ...

I wonder what could be inside??

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Audax TW034X0-P47N - 34mm fabric dome tweeter

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8" widerange designed by Troels and built by Seas to his specifications

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Eminence Deltalite II 2510 - 10" Bass drivers

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Various crossover components

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Some of these caps are rather expensive

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More pics as the build progresses

Thanks For looking

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And so we come to the final installment ...       Spacers on the mounting plate ready for the base.       Aligning the holes on the base with the holes in the spacers and screwing the hex

Finally wired them all up today and running them in now. looking forward to getting them home to my full system, after a few weeks here at the workshop.   Still not sure on what to de withe

Hey @BioBrian ... Yes mate they are still going well. If I really like something I tend to hang onto it ... and these for me are a keeper.   Both the timbers have darkened over time ...

nice

I wonder what the total cost of the parts is landed and what kind of budget is needed for the complete build please?

It seems like smart way to use your money as it minimises shipping expenses of big boxes.

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This is a serious kit. i went to local hifi store the other day, how astonishing that $10k plus speakers and $$$ equipment only can achieve so limited performance with many flaws. i can bet this kit can beat any speakers out there on any price. :cool:

i hope someday i can get to listen one of great design by troels such as this.

Looking forward for your "personalized" troels's design :) , i saw few varieties that really absolutely beautiful.

regards

henry

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I was looking at this kit yesterday.

Keep us posted with your updates.

You know you want one :P

nice

I wonder what the total cost of the parts is landed and what kind of budget is needed for the complete build please?

It seems like smart way to use your money as it minimises shipping expenses of big boxes.

There are price lists on Troel's website for the various component options.

The Eminence drivers are available from a number of different websites with prices listed.

Depending on where you source your components (overseas or local) you may need to factor in freight costs.

Then you have costs for fabricating the cabinets ... materials and or labour.

It's not a cheap project ... but it gives a lot of "bang for buck"

Very nice, I'll be following this thread with a keen interest.

So will I ... I'm keen to find out how it turns out :lol:

awesome.

just finished my dtqwt build.

your in for a treat!

James

Nice work with your build James ...

Are you still running yours in?

That's some very nice quality parts used for this build. Best of luck and keen for updates as you go!

Thanks tuyen :)

following with anticipation!!

I'll probably bore everyone with lots of pictures :P

Check out speaker bug in Queensland he sells the dtqwt kit. Good luck with the build.

Thanks Pat

Yes speaker bug does supply the kit locally ... but does not supply the 13mm felt or the polyester foam.

This is a serious kit. i went to local hifi store the other day, how astonishing that $10k plus speakers and $$$ equipment only can achieve so limited performance with many flaws. i can bet this kit can beat any speakers out there on any price. :cool:

i hope someday i can get to listen one of great design by troels such as this.

Looking forward for your "personalized" troels's design :) , i saw few varieties that really absolutely beautiful.

regards

henry

Thanks henry

I'm sure you'll get a chance to have a listen to one of these at some stage ... seems like there are a few builds out here in Oz now.

And definately some of the "personalized" builds out there are beautiful pieces of furnature.

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Yep been running for a couple of weeks.

I got the foam sent from jantzen and the felt off eBay.

I would love to finish in white gloss. Maybe I can get a laminex veneer. But for now I'm enjoying the fruits of the hours put in.

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You can get all sorts of veneers ... laminex included.

There's a few builds that have been done in white and they look good.

I had the pleasure of hearing buzz lightyear's on the weekend ... very nice indeed ... now I can't wait to get mine built.

Pat ... thanks very much for your hospitality ... and very nice to meet a few other SNA'ers Dave, Keith & Jan.

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  • 1 month later...

Been a while since I've made any updates ... but there has been some progress made.

First up ... Looking at the Eminence Deltalite drivers they needed a bit of work to the bolt holes.

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As can be seen here the bolt holes are half covered over with the edge of the surround.

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Nothing that a little rat tail file cant fix

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I have to admit that I'm sorta kinda cheating a little bit when it comes to building the cabinets.

I'm getting a friend of mine who is a cabinet maker to build them for me.

I want these speakers to look like a nice piece of furniture when finished ... however I don't have the wood working skills or tools to do the job to the level that I want it done.

The cabinet itself is made of mdf and finished of in Tasmanian Oak vaneer.

The front baffle is a combination of solid Tasmanian Oak & Jarrah.

The front baffles glued & biscuited together

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More pics to follow shortly

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The cabinets are taking shape

Rear Chamber

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Front Chamber

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Tasmanian Oak Vaneer sheets for cabinets

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Front baffles after been run through the thicknesser planer

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Marking out the felt damping that will line the insides of the chambers

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My current speakers that will be replaced.

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Greetings all. I've just joined up, and notice that now I see all the juicy pics instead of wondering about those addresses.

My news is that over the last few months I've received the Jantzen kit, the Deltalite woofers, and some Baltic Birch ply, to build a pair of Troels' DTQWT-12s.

These might be the first in Aust, maybe the first in Tassie, anyway. I asked Troels, and he can't know from kit sales: the kit, including crossovers, is the same as for the 10" version, just in a 300 litre cabinet.

Good to have some questions answered here already: I too was wondering about the screw holes in the Deltalites: an otherwise beautiful and immaculately built speaker. Troels has been quick and very deft in his replies, so I feel well supported in the project.

Looking forward to making some room in my workshop, and more updates, Sierra.

Cheers,

Brian.

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good work! What technique do you plan on using to attach the vaneer?

The vaneer is the iron on type ... as for the exact teqnique that's up to my cabinet maker ... I've never done any vaneering work myself so have no idea :)

Looking good there Alan, when are you hoping to have them finished?

Thanks Pat!

I hope that they will be finished some time around November.

Greetings all. I've just joined up, and notice that now I see all the juicy pics instead of wondering about those addresses.

My news is that over the last few months I've received the Jantzen kit, the Deltalite woofers, and some Baltic Birch ply, to build a pair of Troels' DTQWT-12s.

These might be the first in Aust, maybe the first in Tassie, anyway. I asked Troels, and he can't know from kit sales: the kit, including crossovers, is the same as for the 10" version, just in a 300 litre cabinet.

Good to have some questions answered here already: I too was wondering about the screw holes in the Deltalites: an otherwise beautiful and immaculately built speaker. Troels has been quick and very deft in his replies, so I feel well supported in the project.

Looking forward to making some room in my workshop, and more updates, Sierra.

Cheers,

Brian.

Welcome to SNA Brian ...

Wow that's a hell of a project ... the 12" version is massive and with a low WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) difficult to get away with ... :P

Troels is really helpfull and very quick to answer questions which is great.

As the build progresses I'll post up some pics on how I'll screw the Deltalites in.

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Some more pictures

Cutouts for the 10" Deltalite's on the rear baffle

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Centre pin hole for front baffle cut outs

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Wave guide cut out

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Cutout for the 8" Driver

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45 deg backcut on the inside of the 30mm baffle

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Cutouts completed

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Fantastic pics, thanks Sierra. I reckon you'll be done before November at that rate!

I'm interested in what sort of nice screws you found for the waveguide: they look like a hex drive, with perfect sized tops. I have black self-tappers from Jaycar, but they are just Philips head, and the heads are quite narrow. The best fit for the 7mm Deltalite holes I've found so far are 14ga self-tappers - perfect fit, if rather over-engineered, but will have to cover the silver with paint or texta.

I did get the recommended bolts and helicoil bushes from Jantzen, but I can't get the bushes to screw in straight, despite trials with 3 different drill sizes, so have abandoned that idea. 24 Euros later... Your Deltalite holes look quite large, so I'm wondering if you're going to use bolts and those pronged rear nuts?

With the routing of the rear chamfer: did you use an external circle for a profile, or somehow stick your pivot pin into something of the same thickness as the baffle? Looks like it'd be easy to get the wobbles up, with so little base to use.

Love the Jarrah: it's very fruity red, and makes the Tas "oak" look a lovely pale hue. I've avoided the usual bought "oak" so far, as it tends to go dark and depressing with old age (bit like looking in the mirror), but some of the gum trees cut here are very pale. I did find some 70 x 45 Baltic Birch here, but it's full of little knots, and I'm hoping to find some clear Celery Top to go next to some (also Tas) myrtle strips, like Troels does with Mahogany.

It's certainly a big project, putting these together. I've done 6 panels so far, and the learning curve is rather steep and tortuous.

Keep up the good work and photography for us!

Cheers again

Brian.

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It's looking stunning already!

There's a lot of work been put into that one...

SS

Thanks for the kind words SS ... still a bit more work to go yet.

@ BioBrian

Hopefully it will be complete in November sometime.

Regarding the screws I'm using for the waveguide .... you're right they are indeed hex head ... I've used 4mm x 15mm hex heads and also got 4mm flat washers to suit.

The big holes you noticed on the rear baffle of the Deltalites are because I am using the helicoil bushes even though they are annoying to try and insert straight.

To get the 45 deg chamfer on the inside of the baffle we simply used a 45 deg router bit which had a bearing guide and ran the guide along the inner edge of the cut out.

Hmmm ... I hope the Tasmanian Oak doesn't get darker over time ... oh well ... time will tell I suppose.

More pictures to come :)

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I love the look of Australian timbers when used to finish speakers of any kind. The workmanship in your build is very high, you will have a fine sounding speaker that also doubles as fine furniture.

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I love the look of Australian timbers when used to finish speakers of any kind. The workmanship in your build is very high, you will have a fine sounding speaker that also doubles as fine furniture.

Thanks LJT

That's exactly what I am after ... a speaker that is a nice piece of furniture as well.

The credit for the workmanship goes to a friend of mine, Brian McMillan from McMillan Fine Furniture in Ballarat (shameless plug) :)

where can one buy the tasmanian or jarrah board?

The timber for mine was sourced from Britton Timbers ... there is an outlet in NSW ... but any timber merchant should stock those.

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Some more pictures ...

Looking upwards into the horn showing the internal bracing ... also note the knife edge chamfering of the front baffle.

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Scallop routered on the internal radius panel of the horn for the Audax TW034XO-P47N Tweeter.

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Felt lining panels cut out ready to be glued on.

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Felt lining glued on and polyester foam added.

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Thanks for looking :)

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Thanks Guys :)

Will still be a month or so away yet.

Will be another 2 weeks before I can get back to Brian's place in Ballarat and we can do the last bits of routing for the speaker terminals on the rear baffles.

Then the cabinets will go off to the polishers for the final finishing.

So probably the end of October or early November till I get the cabinets home and can start on the crossover installation and wiring etc.

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Keeping us dangling, there, Sierra. Does this mean you have a normal life as well??

I wonder what glue you used to stick the felt on. I tried somebody's recommendation of spray-on, but not not very convinced by the first test. Also heat-glue, but it hardens before you can get enough on: I had to do the last job in tiny strips. Good if it works: it penetrates enough felt to grab a reasonable amount. But those heat guns are a scandalously bad design/build! They (I bought a 2nd, bigger one) seem to go OK for the first packet of sticks, then you have to manually push the glue in...

I did my crossovers first, before starting on the cabs, and came up with a problem: the sketches differed from the circuit diagrams, in the order of capacitor/resistor in some cases. Troels' reply to my question was that the order doesn't matter, except where the expensive silver cap goes. I made mine according to the circuit. I later found a photo where somebody else had changed them back too. I wonder what you'll decide? (Crazikid? Buzz?) The heat glue worked well for sticking the components onto the boards. You have to be quick, as it sets so fast, but one error was corrected by re-melting with a hot knife, hopefully without damage.

These massive (over 2.5kg per speaker) crossovers make me wonder about the ones in my present 3-ways, with their little polyester and electrolytic caps. There can be no looking back after DTQWT...

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Not too much has changed since the last update BioBrian ... just doing long hours at work at the moment.

For sticking the felt on I used the good old Selleys Contact Adhesive ... I wouldn't use anything else.

Yes I noticed that the crossover layout differed from the photo's with the resistor/cap orientation ... but Troels mentions that it differs in the text just underneath the layout so I hadn't thought more about it.

I had planned to follow the layout rather than the photos.

Although I might send Troel's another email to confirm it really doesn't make a difference since you've mentioned that there is an exception with the Silver Caps.

They are massive crossovers as you say ... makes my current 3 way speaker crossovers look whimpy too!

To glue the really heavy C-Core inductor I've used liquid nails and also used it on the big wax coils.

For all the other components I'll be using a neutral cure silicone adhesive/sealer.

I hope to have some more updated pictures after the weekend ... but for now ... just for you Brian ... a couple of pics of the start of my crossovers :)

Heavy C-Core and wax inductors glued to MDF bases with Liquid Nails

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I used sikaflex for the internal felt and crossovers.

I was unhappy with the way the jantzen silver cap was sounding so I sprung for some duelund caps for both the tweeter and mid range driver. I know the jantzen silver caps need to be run in - But they sounded like finger nails across a white board. Cost a pretty penny. Also changed to eichmann cable pods. All my internal wiring is goertz. Much better than the silver plated stuff that came with the kit.

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Hi Sierra,

Just thinking out loud here . .

What's the conventional wisdom with gluing these heavy cross-over items?

Might the Liquid Nails start to sag over time? . . or is it best to add a couple of nylon zip-ties to be sure?

Edited by Dustin
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I used sikaflex for the internal felt and crossovers.

I was unhappy with the way the jantzen silver cap was sounding so I sprung for some duelund caps for both the tweeter and mid range driver. I know the jantzen silver caps need to be run in - But they sounded like finger nails across a white board. Cost a pretty penny. Also changed to eichmann cable pods. All my internal wiring is goertz. Much better than the silver plated stuff that came with the kit.

Sikaflex will definately work well :)

Interesting that you replaced the silver caps James ... did it change the overall sound much?

Which Duelund cap type did you go with ... VSF, VSF Black or Cast?

As well as the silver cap ... did you also replace both Sup-Z caps with the Duelunds?

I don't think my ears would be good enough tell the difference between the goertz wire and the silver plated one that comes with the kit.

But that's the great thing about speakers like these ... future component upgrades are an easy thing to do if needed.

Hi Sierra,

Just thinking out loud here . .

What's the conventional wisdom with gluing these heavy cross-over items?

Might the Liquid Nails start to sag over time? . . or is it best to add a couple of nylon zip-ties to be sure?

Hey Dustin

Liquid Nails is a strong construction adhesive and is designed to flex and not crack with temperature changes. No ... it will definately not sag over time.

I've seen others that have constructed their crossovers holding the components on with zip-ties ... personally I think it looks untidy with zip ties ... but thats just me :)

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