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Passive Subwoofer Amplifiers


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I have a Jamo In Wall Subwoofer IW 1060 SW which requires an external amp to power it.

 

Are there any recommended subwoofer amplifiers that aren't super expensive?

 

I used to have a Jamo MPA201 but it developed a crackling in the right speaker output and couldn't be fixed.

 

I have looked into some other pro amps but they all don't have signal sense / auto on which is one main requirement.

 

Thanks

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On 06/05/2021 at 11:19 AM, Agrowe said:

signal sense / auto on which is one main requirement

many plate amps would have this

and lots have DSP also which is handy for subs.

 

I've only ever used Rythmik plate amps, which have the extra circuitry for their servo drivers (which you don't want/need)...but loads of options in other plate amps...but an enclosure would be needed

 

How much power do you need?

Is there just the one sub?

On 06/05/2021 at 11:19 AM, Agrowe said:

I used to have a Jamo MPA201 but it developed a crackling in the right speaker output and couldn't be fixed.

were you using the 2nd channel on the amp?

If it isn't being used, is just swapping to that channel an option?

 

Mike

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Hi Mike,

 

I had thought about a plate amp but wasn’t sure of how to properly make an enclosure for it to go in an entertainment unit. 
 

The L channel should work but I was told it’s also developing an issue with the relay (I think that’s it) and would prefer just to get something new (or used) that didn’t have both of these issues. 
 

It’s only one sub, 150/300W it says at 8 ohm, so not the most powerful. 
 

Thanks

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Thanks but that one doesn’t look to be available anymore. It pretty much fits what I’m after though. 
 

There are some I found around that price in Aus from Redback or Dayton Audio but wasn’t sure if there were preferred options that people recommend or have used previously. 

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2 hours ago, Agrowe said:

The L channel should work but I was told it’s also developing an issue with the relay

so presumably out of warranty?

 

run it till it dies...it's likely a different relay...relays don't "develop" issues, they just stop working...keep using the other channel until it doesn't work

 

Mike

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53 minutes ago, Agrowe said:

in Aus from Redback or Dayton Audio but wasn’t sure if there were preferred options that people recommend or have used previously. 

I've not used either - I'm fine with most any amp for sub duties as long as it has reasonable power at low distortion - your previous Jamo MPA201 @100W was a bit light on for a sub IMHO

 

cheers

Mike

 

 

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With a wattage of 150/300 (long/short term) and 8 ohm for the sub, what is going to be the ideal wattage to look at for the amp?

 

Previously I could have bridged the channels to get 200w but not anymore. 

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On 09/05/2021 at 9:19 PM, Agrowe said:

With a wattage of 150/300 (long/short term) and 8 ohm for the sub, what is going to be the ideal wattage to look at for the amp?

 

Previously I could have bridged the channels to get 200w but not anymore. 

it really depends on your SPL requirements, but if the sub can handle 300W short term I would look at a 300W amp.

 

Have you looked at just getting another Jamo amp?

 

Mike

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I have but they're not made any more I think. There are a few options out there just need to pick the right one for the right price.

 

It's also a dual voice coil sub, so 2x 8ohm inputs which means there are a few more options to consider.

 

2x 8ohm outputs on the amp

1x 4ohm output in parallel

1x 16ohm output in series

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 if you get a stereo amp run the each channel to a voicecoil - make sure you get the polarity right and increase volume slowly to ensure you're getting sound out...if you get it wrong the voicecoils will operate against each other :(, and easy to melt voicecoils if you turn the wick up.

 

I had a similar situation with a large stereo woofer box that I put new drivers in, and sealed up the ports.

When I got it running again I couldn't believe how bad the sound was...turns out one channel of the pre-amp/crossover was reverse polarity, and with the woofers being so close they were cancelling each other out (massive "suckout")...

 

....or connect only 1 voicecoil, get some sound, turn off and connect the 2nd voicecoil, turn on and volume should increase...shouldn't be an issue as long as you pay attention to the polarity of your connections.

 

For just 1 amp channel connect the voicecoils in parallel for 4 ohms provided your amp is safe at 4 ohms, and these days mostly every solid state amp is safe at 4 ohms.

 

Someone smarter than me could advise why anyone would connect the voicecoils in series for 16 ohms - I can't see the point - less power from the amp

 

Mike

 

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2 minutes ago, RoHo said:

OP is looking for something with auto-sensing power on...which the Behringer you linked to may have, but it doesn't say in the initial blurb...

 

Mike

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I have looked at a few Crown and Behringer amps but didn’t see any that had auto on / signal sense as I initially likes the $/watt ratios of them. 
 

Depending on the amp I would either do stereo to each coil or if it’s a mono amp then do it in parallel. 

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53 minutes ago, Agrowe said:

I have looked at a few Crown and Behringer amps but didn’t see any that had auto on / signal sense as I initially likes the $/watt ratios of them. 

 

$/watt you can't beat pro amps...

 

...the plate amps on my sub have auto turn on, but I don't use it - I just go through a process of turning on my gear, or leave it on...

 

Turn on

  •  Pre-amps 1st, then sources, then power amps

Turn off

  • power amps, then sources, then preamps

 

Mike

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16 hours ago, RoHo said:

 

Perfect choice. Cheap and powerful.

The PX series Yamahas allow you to digitally filter the frequency so it will only play below the band you set it to.

You can leave them turned on.

 

EDIT: I re read your OP and realise that auto on is your main requirement. May I ask why?

Edited by Rob Wright
Re read OP
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16 minutes ago, Rob Wright said:

 

Perfect choice. Cheap and powerful.

The PX series Yamahas allow you to digitally filter the frequency so it will only play below the band you set it to.

You can leave them turned on.

 

EDIT: I re read your OP and realise that auto on is your main requirement. May I ask why?


I mainly wanted the auto on to make our setup easier and also so that it’s on standby while it’s not in use to not use extra power. 
 

The wife and kids factor means it has to be the easiest solution and we’re currently moving from

an active sub with auto on so I’m trying to keep it similar. 

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Two amps that I have found but can't really decide in either one are:

 

Redback 200W Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.redbackaudio.com.au/product-details/a4861-redback-200w-subwoofer-amplifier/

 

and

 

Dayton Audio SA230 Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1032/sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier

 

Both are relatively similar in price, watts, features. Redback is a much smaller unit than the Dayton and they have different auto on timeouts of Redback 3 mins and Dayton 15 mins.

 

I can't really find any information online about the Redback and the Dayton has some good reviews (apart from maybe a lower sensitivity with the auto on feature, and I don't have a 12v trigger) so it's a bit of a toss up.

 

Do either of these stick out as a better choice?

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On 19/05/2021 at 4:55 PM, Agrowe said:

Two amps that I have found but can't really decide in either one are:

 

Redback 200W Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.redbackaudio.com.au/product-details/a4861-redback-200w-subwoofer-amplifier/

 

and

 

Dayton Audio SA230 Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1032/sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier

 

Both are relatively similar in price, watts, features. Redback is a much smaller unit than the Dayton and they have different auto on timeouts of Redback 3 mins and Dayton 15 mins.

 

I can't really find any information online about the Redback and the Dayton has some good reviews (apart from maybe a lower sensitivity with the auto on feature, and I don't have a 12v trigger) so it's a bit of a toss up.

 

Do either of these stick out as a better choice?

the Redback has less power (200W into 4 ohms vs the Dayton with 233W into 4 ohms), and based on it's small form factor the Redback is likely class D vs the Dayton class AB.

 

Nothing wrong with class D for subs - I'm just pointing out differences.

The Dayton also has selectable bass boost.

 

I've not listened to either - but based purely on the info in the links you provided, if they're the same cost, I would lean towards the Dayton.

 

cheers,

Mike

 

 

 

 

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