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IRS2092S based projects..... Any out there?


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I've unfortunately had a very baf accident recently and as such I am unable to return to work for a long time so I've decided to order some parts online and have some fun and build a class D amp for home listening with loud speakers. 

 

I haven't seen too many projects with people using IRS2092 based boards that have a lot of details. Many of them are simply short you tube videos which don't go into any detail. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with these boards for DIY? Pro and Con? 

 

My build is consisting of 2 of the 150w units for stereo sound and I have also ordered a tube pre amp and some VU meters and a passive tone board and fingers crossed I can get it all working nicely together and have some fun along the way. 

 

Any info on these boards would be greatly appreciated 

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20 minutes ago, Danthuyer1503564928 said:

I've unfortunately had a very baf accident recently and as such I am unable to return to work for a long time so I've decided to order some parts online and have some fun and build a class D amp for home listening with loud speakers. 

 

I haven't seen too many projects with people using IRS2092 based boards that have a lot of details. Many of them are simply short you tube videos which don't go into any detail. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with these boards for DIY? Pro and Con? 

 

My build is consisting of 2 of the 150w units for stereo sound and I have also ordered a tube pre amp and some VU meters and a passive tone board and fingers crossed I can get it all working nicely together and have some fun along the way. 

 

Any info on these boards would be greatly appreciated 

@mwhouston is the guru on these l believe.  ?

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41 minutes ago, Danthuyer1503564928 said:

I've unfortunately had a very baf accident recently and as such I am unable to return to work for a long time so I've decided to order some parts online and have some fun and build a class D amp for home listening with loud speakers. 

 

I haven't seen too many projects with people using IRS2092 based boards that have a lot of details. Many of them are simply short you tube videos which don't go into any detail. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with these boards for DIY? Pro and Con? 

 

My build is consisting of 2 of the 150w units for stereo sound and I have also ordered a tube pre amp and some VU meters and a passive tone board and fingers crossed I can get it all working nicely together and have some fun along the way. 

 

Any info on these boards would be greatly appreciated 

Ive built about a dozen class d and a few with the gate controller you mention. Possibly a better module is the hifimediy T4 tripath 180W with speaker crowbar protection. All you need extra is a tranni. 

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18 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Ive built about a dozen class d and a few with the gate controller you mention. Possibly a better module is the hifimediy T4 tripath 180W with speaker crowbar protection. All you need extra is a tranni. 

 

Tranni?? 

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26 minutes ago, Danthuyer1503564928 said:

 

Tranni?? 

All you need is a 300 -> 500VAC transformer 30 -> 34V e.g. from Altronics 

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41 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

From personal experience linear PS sound far more analogue than SMPS. But the T4 has a high performance PS onboard for about A$150 all up, just add tranni. 

I've already got my boards on their way and they are not the T4 as mentioned 

 

What's the difference between the two power supply 

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9 minutes ago, Danthuyer1503564928 said:

I've already got my boards on their way and they are not the T4 as mentioned 

 

What's the difference between the two power supply 

Everything. 

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17 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Everything. 

Could you please expand on everything? 

 

Or point me to a resource that would explain the differences? 

 

As I haven't bought my psu yet and power is important in this build. 

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Don't worry mate I've just found a bunch of interesting articles on the subject. I will go with my original switching unit and if I encounter too much emi then I will work out a solution for it. 

 

Appreciate it @mwhouston

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2 hours ago, Danthuyer1503564928 said:

Don't worry mate I've just found a bunch of interesting articles on the subject. I will go with my original switching unit and if I encounter too much emi then I will work out a solution for it. 

 

Appreciate it @mwhouston

You can always add a linear PS later. Good just to get it up and going. .

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19 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

You can always add a linear PS later. Good just to get it up and going. .

Exactly mate I'm just keen to get the components and start building. I've even bought the DIY boards so I can swap out caps etc for better quality ones and be in control of the assembly and make sure tolerances and soldering are done right 

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I assembled a stereo amp using two IRS2092 modules from ebay ages ago, with an SMPS.  It was alright. But I like the newer TPA3255 chipset better :-)

 

the amp fell out of favour when I started using more high efficiency speakers and is sitting in my Pile of DIY Class D amps In Crappy Enclosures. From memory it was fine for more "normal" efficiency speakers with passive crossovers  but a bit of background noise when I moved to more efficient drivers in an active setup.

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, zog said:

I assembled a stereo amp using two IRS2092 modules from ebay ages ago, with an SMPS.  It was alright. But I like the newer TPA3255 chipset better ?

 

the amp fell out of favour when I started using more high efficiency speakers and is sitting in my Pile of DIY Class D amps In Crappy Enclosures. From memory it was fine for more "normal" efficiency speakers with passive crossovers  but a bit of background noise when I moved to more efficient drivers in an active setup.

 

 

 

Class D can be very detailed and fast. High efficiency speakers with ultra light stiff cones can be equally detailed and fast. Putting the two together may have been too much of a good thing. Class D amps usually have good power ratings, 100W or more for $100 or so is not unusual. High efficiency speakers are not required. But then you miss their great performance characteristics. 
 

After saying all that I use occasionally a 180W Tripath Class D with my Altec horns and 12” woofer. But (yes another but) the speakers are padded down to 90db. I prefer my 300W Holton but the super cheap much lighter Class D comes scary close. I could easily swing between the two. 

 

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My stereo subwoofer amp I built using these and it easily drives my subs beyond there physical capabilities.

 

https://connexelectronic.com/product/smps2000rxe/

https://connexelectronic.com/product/irs2092-stereo-amplifier/

 

My subs have never sounded so good.

 

Also all my amps in my car are class D and it sounds fantastic.

Edited by DavidH71
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So how does one control the volume in these setups? 

I'm thinking of adding a pre amp to it however it doesn't seem to have any potentiometer.... So would I have to add a passive tone board inline somewhere to be able to control the volume from the amp rather than the source!? 

 

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If no preamp then the simplest way is a good quality pot at the line in input of the amps , dual ganged if it's a 2 channel setup.

 

If your source can vary it's volume then that would also do.

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23 minutes ago, DavidH71 said:

If no preamp then the simplest way is a good quality pot at the line in input of the amps , dual ganged if it's a 2 channel setup.

 

If your source can vary it's volume then that would also do.

Thx David

 

I have ordered a tube pre amp but that doesn't look to have any gain or room for a pot. 

 

So I have also ordered a tone board that has volume, high and low and runs a NE5532 op amp per channel. 

 

So I'm guessing the tone board sits in line between the input source and then the preamp? 

 

The tone board has a B50K pot for the volume so I'm assuming I can change this value for different results 

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I would put it in between the preamp and amp , the volume control part is usually the last thing in the signal chain before the amp.

 

You shouldn't need to alter the pot and if you were wanting to change the max output of the tone module you would need to work out it's gain and change that.

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38 minutes ago, DavidH71 said:

I would put it in between the preamp and amp , the volume control part is usually the last thing in the signal chain before the amp.

 

You shouldn't need to alter the pot and if you were wanting to change the max output of the tone module you would need to work out it's gain and change that.

Why would you put it between 

Pre amp and amp out of curiosity 

 

Sorry I'm new to this but learning a lot and loving it 

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You could do it the other way but the general convention is the way I described so that full signal level is supplied to the volume adjust and it then reduces the signal to the amp.

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49 minutes ago, DavidH71 said:

You could do it the other way but the general convention is the way I described so that full signal level is supplied to the volume adjust and it then reduces the signal to the amp.

Thank you that makes a bit of sence to me now. 

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