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Upgrading from FHD to 4K - Opinions and Input Please


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Hello Forum members. 
I haven't been active here for a long, long time. 

I come seeking input and advice on the great journey that is upgrading from FHD to 4K.
 

Room

Our HT/Rumpus room is 4m x 7m with 2.5m ceiling.

It has served the family well for over a decade. 

It is currently setup for 7.1 using 1080p/FHD technology.

Primarily used for a mix of Movies, Sports and Gaming. With maybe 10% music (usually SACD or Blu-Ray Audio).

 

It is time to make the leap to a bigger TV and by implication 4K, Dolby Vision, Atmos etc.

I want to do it properly so I recognise that this will mean substantial changes to my current setup.

 

Current Equipment

  • Display Panasonic TH-P54V20A Full HD Plasma
  • AV Receiver Yamaha RX-A3020
  • HD Players 
    • Toshiba HD-XE1
    • Oppo BDP-105 for Blu Ray & SACD
  • Set top Box Fetch Mighty
  • Speakers 7.1
    • Mission 766 Front Speakers
    • Mission 77c Centre Speaker
    • Mission 771 Side Speakers (angled down to MLP).
    • Mission m5ds Rear Surround Speakers (bipoles)
    • REL R205 Sub Bass System
  • Consoles 
    • Sony PS4 & PS3
  • Media PC
    • Intel NUC with Pentium CPU,  8GB RAM, Emby Client
  • Remote Logitech Harmony 525 Remote, Microsoft Media Center Keyboard (yes an original one).
  • Power Belkin PF30 PureAV™ Home Theatre Power Console + Belkin Surge Protector with Battery Backup – 600VA (for PC, switches not AV gear).
  • Networking – Ubiquiti UniFi US-8 and USW-Flex Mini switches & UAP-NanoHD AP (house runs a UniFi backbone over CAT6).
  • SoundDesign Furniture Moreton Deluxe Rack 

 

Desired Setup

Speakers
My preferable final configuration is 7.1.4. I believe I have the space for 4 Atmos speakers in the room.
I have longer term plans for 7.2.4 at a later date or maybe 7.1.4 just a bigger REL sub. 

 

I intend to keep the current 7.1 setup with Missions and REL sub for now.

 

For Atmos speakers I am leaning towards Krix HEMISPHERIX AS or A20. Preferably the A20 but these are marginally deeper than my ceiling cavity. 

I would like ATMOSPHERIX A20's as I have heard them, but they are simply far to deep for my ceiling. 

See below re ceiling depth.

 

Display
75" or 85" 4K LCD - leaning towards Sony at this time.

I watch sports (either Fetch Mighty or streaming from media PC), we play games and watch movies. Not much FTA TV.


New AVR

Open to ideas. I've had 4 generations of  Yamaha's RX-V1900, RX-V2600, RX-V3800 and finally RX-A3020. 

But after being happy for those 4 generations of Yamaha, the new A series AVR's do not appeal. I don't like the looks for a start. Plus perhaps it is time for something a little/lot better.

Needs to support:-

  • 11.2 channels. 
  • Room correction. 
  • Good music playback for SACD and Blu-Ray audio.
  • Upgrades (see below)

Not bothered about streaming (we use Sonos around the house) and if playing music it will be physical media.


UHD Playback & Gaming

Sony PS5 for gaming and 4K playback

Sony PS4 and PS3
I will keep the Oppo and probably retire the HD-XE1 (and it's backup).

 

Media PC

Perhaps it is time to retire the Media PC and go with a different solution for streaming video (including hopefully 4K playback). 
Possibly directly on the TV might be an option.
I have a Synology 12-bay NAS to serve up media.

 

Questions/Challenges

The items below are the initial decisions and obstacles I have come up with. 


TV Wall Mounting

My current layout has a feature wall with an alcove for the TV. Unfortunately is only large enough for a 55" TV. 

It currently has a power socket and exit for conduit run for HDMI cable (see below).
So I need to expand the alcove to accommodate larger display.
Or

Do I fill the alcove in and mount the TV flush as modern LCD panels are much thinner than than the plasma TV's that the room was designed for. If I went for the 85" option, I think this would be the simplest option.

 

But I (and the missus) like the alcove and think it adds a bit of class to the room. 

I have a tame (mostly) builder who hopefully can do this work for me. 

 

Cable runs and Conduit 

Currently I run a 8m Kordz HDMI cable through approx 6m of conduit from the AVR to the display. 

It takes 6 metres to run from centre of the feature wall and round onto left hand wall to reach AVR location.

 

For the new solution I want to run:-

2 x Ultra HDMI/48Gbps cables

1 x Antenna cable

1 x CAT6 Ethernet 

plus several pull cables (I learnt the hard way about not having enough).

There is no-way that is all getting through my current conduit, or at least it would be very difficult. 

 

I am thinking that perhaps that I have new shorter conduit installed when I have a builder address the feature wall (see above). It will exit on the side of the feature wall and be a direct line to the back of the TV mounting.

This will hopefully mean that I will have shorter distance and this should mean I can potentially get away with 5 m cables.

 

Ceiling Depth

I want to do Atmos properly (or as best I can) but there is only 150mm ceiling space available which limits me if I want to keep the speakers flush. Given the height and visual impact, fully surface mounted speakers are not an option.

I would really prefer the Hemispherix A20 over the AS if at all possible. But the A20 are 157mm deep which is 7mm taller than my ceiling cavity. 

So I am contemplating have 4 tasteful moulding/ceiling features (plasterboard, plastic, wood) installed to increase the ceiling depth to allow sufficient space (at least 10mm more, at least 15mm for safety) to mount 4 x Krix Hemispherix A20.

 

AVR Amplification

If I going to drive 11 channels I am either going to need a top-of-the-class AVR with 11 channels of amplification or a mid-to-high tier amp with a power amp to drive 2 or more speakers.

That is going to drive the budget a bit higher than I had originally planned either way.


Or I could change the speaker configuration to use 9 channels which more AVR's have. 

Either 7.1.2 (drop the rear pair of Atmos) or 5.1.4 (and lose the rears). But I am reluctant to do this as the 7.1 gets a lot of use in games. 

 

HDMI 2.1

To be honest the of mess that HDMI 2.1 currently encompasses displays, AVRs and playback devices is almost (but not-quite) enough to put me off.

 

I believe there are very few current AVR's with certified and working HDMI 2.1 functionality.
With this in mind I would be interesting in getting an AVR that has a future upgrade option such as NAD or Anthem have.
I believe the work around is to run cable directly from PS5 to display and use the ARC channel for audio return to AVR over second HDMI cable. 

 

Budget

$10-15K. 

 

Thank you for reading and I look forward to any input you would care to share.

 

 

 

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Okay we're done.    It took a little under 4 hours from start to finish.      The bulk of that time was spent discovering pathways and running cable. Multiple fish rods,

@betty boop, for you and I, it is not a tweak.  However, I know many people who struggle to use the  room correction software; adding a new target curve is a bridge too far.  Hence, my suggestion is t

Over the 4 days of the Easter break and a bit of work through last week and today, I've made a lot of progress.  In particular, I had a productive Easter due to near-lockdown and the weather mean

13 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

Room

Our HT/Rumpus room is 4m x 7m with 2.5m ceiling.

It has served the family well for over a decade. 

It is currently setup for 7.1 using 1080p/FHD technology.

Primarily used for a mix of Movies, Sports and Gaming. With maybe 10% music (usually SACD or Blu-Ray Audio).

 

great to see you around kiwi, and looks like a great room there. can I ask is it 7m as the length ? you have some good height as well in the ceiling for heights. the length of the room will help determine both speaker arrangement and size of screen :)

 

13 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

Desired Setup

Speakers
My preferable final configuration is 7.1.4. I believe I have the space for 4 Atmos speakers in the room.
I have longer term plans for 7.2.4 at a later date or maybe 7.1.4 just a bigger REL sub. 

 

I intend to keep the current 7.1 setup with Missions and REL sub for now.

 

For Atmos speakers I am leaning towards Krix HEMISPHERIX AS or A20. Preferably the A20 but these are marginally deeper than my ceiling cavity. 

I would like ATMOSPHERIX A20's as I have heard them, but they are simply far to deep for my ceiling. 

See below re ceiling depth.

 

 

good move to keep current speakers and the krix are an excellent neutral speaker. i wouldn't bother with the slanted krix the standard ones are fine...

 

150mm will be fine for in ceilings, and the As are fine. @evil c and @Quark I think use these in their setups :) id keep it flush with ceiling rather than poking out as well ! 

 

13 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

AVR Amplification

If I going to drive 11 channels I am either going to need a top-of-the-class AVR with 11 channels of amplification or a mid-to-high tier amp with a power amp to drive 2 or more speakers.

That is going to drive the budget a bit higher than I had originally planned either way.

can always start with an AVR that can augment with amp will work. the denons for instance now come with a pre amp mode so down the track can add a seperate amp. add on amps like elektra come up for sale now and then as popular and can be quite an affordable purchase

 

13 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

HDMI 2.1

To be honest the of mess that HDMI 2.1 currently encompasses displays, AVRs and playback devices is almost (but not-quite) enough to put me off.

 

I believe there are very few current AVR's with certified and working HDMI 2.1 functionality.
With this in mind I would be interesting in getting an AVR that has a future upgrade option such as NAD or Anthem have.
I believe the work around is to run cable directly from PS5 to display and use the ARC channel for audio return to AVR over second HDMI cable. 

yes a mess, with denon and marantz they suggest you feed source device directly to display and use earc to feed back to your avr. you dont need an hdmi 2.1 avr for that... so one option might be to get a upper model completely bug free avr from 2018 onwards... will fully support what trying to do...rather than paying for cutting edge and a premium for bugs. frankly i thought denon marantz and yamaha to be best placed to get this right and they have all fluffed it. so frankly i wouldn't trust any off them and rather than that skip on this first gen and rather than pay premium for it, buy in current or previous gen which will do all want ...and are tried and tested. bonus is also the bargain will get.

 

14 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

Display
75" or 85" 4K LCD - leaning towards Sony at this time.

I watch sports (either Fetch Mighty or streaming from media PC), we play games and watch movies. Not much FTA TV.

possible can share on what room looks like ? because of using 7m length of the room a projector might be more suitable ... and keep the tv have...

 

 

 

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I'm actually using Krix Atmospherix kiwimeat is considering and have been pleased with their performance. However, they're not much of a step up from the Hemispherix and these are obviously an easier and cheaper solution given the ceiling space.

 

I'd agree, you should consider a projector if you can get light control of the room - they're much more immersive than a TV.

 

 

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Suggest looking at the Anthem MRX1140, with assignable amp channels, but delayed in availability till mid year. You can start with it and add amps.  Anthem Room Correction is top notch, and good for movies AND music.

 

For ceiling speakers, consider Monitor Audio, some designed for shallow ceilings.

 

For the TV, I used this as a guide and ended up with the Samsung (upgraded from a Pana Plasma)

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-size/70-75-77-inch

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17 hours ago, kiwimeat said:
  • 11.2 channels. 
  • Room correction. 
  • Good music playback for SACD and Blu-Ray audio.

Youve nailed the options with NAD and Anthem well kiwi ; note some prices ?

NAD T 778 Reference AV Receiver | Klapp Audio Visual (klappav.com.au)

Anthem MRX-740 11.2ch AV Receiver | Selby

 

Only one of them has 9ch  of power [class d if ok ?] . Otherwise if you can stretch to the mrx1400 you wont need the add on 2ch power amp and the anthem virtual input configurability with 4 profiles for ARC  are above and beyond the rest .. 

 

As said wait until their firmware is up to scratch ; too expensive to be a beta tester ?

 

Quote

leaning towards Sony at this time.

Consider the 85" x9000 ; has calman calibration and the x1 processor just keeps getting better

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9 hours ago, betty boop said:

great to see you around kiwi, and looks like a great room there. can I ask is it 7m as the length ? you have some good height as well in the ceiling for heights. the length of the room will help determine both speaker arrangement and size of screen :)

Thank you for your response and kind words.

The room is 7m in length but the back 1/3 is occupied by shelves, a treadmill and exercise bike.  So the main viewing area/MLP is about  4 metres back from the feature wall. 

 

I'm working on a basic floor plan and layout and will post in a day or two. Along with some pictures.

 

9 hours ago, betty boop said:

good move to keep current speakers and the krix are an excellent neutral speaker. i wouldn't bother with the slanted krix the standard ones are fine...

150mm will be fine for in ceilings, and the As are fine. @evil c and @Quark I think use these in their setups :) id keep it flush with ceiling rather than poking out as well ! 

 

8 hours ago, Quark said:

I'm actually using Krix Atmospherix kiwimeat is considering and have been pleased with their performance. However, they're not much of a step up from the Hemispherix and these are obviously an easier and cheaper solution given the ceiling space.

I'd agree, you should consider a projector if you can get light control of the room - they're much more immersive than a TV.

 

10 hours ago, Snoopy8 said:

For ceiling speakers, consider Monitor Audio, some designed for shallow ceilings.

Thank you all - I've adjusted my plans and will use speakers that fit flush with my current ceiling. Greatly simplifies things on that front. 

I'll check out Monitor Audio as well as Krix.

 

I have previously tested a projector but I'll stay on the TV option. It better suits the typical usage scenario.  

 

5 hours ago, cwt said:

Consider the 85" x9000 ; has calman calibration and the x1 processor just keeps getting better

I know several people with this screen and they are all very happy with it. 
I believe the colour quality on the x9500 series is a little better but 85" has a quality all of it's own. ?

 

10 hours ago, Snoopy8 said:

For the TV, I used this as a guide and ended up with the Samsung (upgraded from a Pana Plasma)

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-size/70-75-77-inch

I'll check that out too - my employer gets Samsung Corporate discount.  So far I've only used it to buy a phone.

 

The AVR quandry might be the one I think longest and hardest over. 

Do I go premium tier AVR to get an all in one box solution, or go for a mid-to-top tier AVR plus a power amp? 

Whatever I do I'll probably be waiting. (famous last wqrds).

6 hours ago, cwt said:

Youve nailed the options with NAD and Anthem well kiwi ; note some prices ?

NAD T 778 Reference AV Receiver | Klapp Audio Visual (klappav.com.au)

Anthem MRX-740 11.2ch AV Receiver | Selby

 

Only one of them has 9ch  of power [class d if ok ?] . Otherwise if you can stretch to the mrx1400 you wont need the add on 2ch power amp and the anthem virtual input configurability with 4 profiles for ARC  are above and beyond the rest .. 

 

As said wait until their firmware is up to scratch ; too expensive to be a beta tester ?

Absolutely agree about not wanting to be a beta tester for anyone. I can go to work for that! 


I have to say that the NAD 778 really appeals. It looks fantastic and their audio excellence is a given. I once owned one of the early NAD stereo amps and CD player a long, long time ago. 

Obviously I would need a power amp to get all 11 channels going. 

 

11 hours ago, betty boop said:

can always start with an AVR that can augment with amp will work. the denons for instance now come with a pre amp mode so down the track can add a seperate amp. add on amps like elektra come up for sale now and then as popular and can be quite an affordable purchase

 

yes a mess, with denon and marantz they suggest you feed source device directly to display and use earc to feed back to your avr. you dont need an hdmi 2.1 avr for that... so one option might be to get a upper model completely bug free avr from 2018 onwards... will fully support what trying to do...rather than paying for cutting edge and a premium for bugs. frankly i thought denon marantz and yamaha to be best placed to get this right and they have all fluffed it. so frankly i wouldn't trust any off them and rather than that skip on this first gen and rather than pay premium for it, buy in current or previous gen which will do all want ...and are tried and tested. bonus is also the bargain will get.

A great suggestion. 

New there is the NAD778 as recommended by cwt.

My local dealer has a Anthem 720 reduced (presumably to clear before new x40 generation arrive.) 

Another option new Anthem 1120 advertised in the Commercial Section. That gets me 11 channels driven out of the box and a good mix of features and sounds. 

Or I could hunt down a good second hand deal. By need to be sharp on here to score a good one. 

 

After so many generations of Yamahas, I am both excited and nervous to enter the waters to select a new AVR.

I need to get familiar with Denon and Marantz as well. 
But I think I am leaning strongly towards NAD or Anthem at this time.

 

Thank you all for your responses. 

You've already resolved at least one issue for me and given me direction for most of others.

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27 minutes ago, kiwimeat said:

The room is 7m in length but the back 1/3 is occupied by shelves, a treadmill and exercise bike.  So the main viewing area/MLP is about  4 metres back from the feature wall. 

 

I'm working on a basic floor plan and layout and will post in a day or two. Along with some pictures.

 

look forward to the plan and photos as will perhaps give more thoughts and ideas. however this is actually great news kiwi...that MLP is 2/3 depth of room leaving 1/3rd behind. this matches perfectly for rule of thirds ! to advantage of both audio and video....

 

my suggestion with this kind of arrangement is its still quite a large/long room 100% go 7.1.4 but could also accomodate 7.1.6 though thats something could always leave for down the track and add onto if felt the need :)

 

be aware 4m viewing distance is actually quite huge. a 75" you will not resolve 1080p at that distance unless sitting at 3m. an 85" TV you'd need to sit at 3.3m so unfortunately with either this size screens  you wont fully resolve 1080p  let alone 4k. there will certainly be a greater amount of 2k/1080; detail will see for first time though and also get other gains 4k uhd in terms of wider colour gamut and higher dynamic range :) so still benefits to be had. 

 

to be truthful for a 4m viewing distance you are more looking at something akin to a 130-135" screen which will get you immersion to THX spec as recomended. will easily resolve 1080p detail, in fact over resolve so also give gains for material with 4k detail. however this is well and truly beyond TVs and even for projector quite a big screen. anyways just something to keep in mind with this step for 4k.

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You can also consider using speakers which hang from the ceiling eg the Anthony Gallo series.

The Denon 6700 is a decent place to begin your journey, and is made in Japan no less.. 

HDMI 2.1 as well. 

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@kiwimeat some easter bargains, along Pete's line thinking theres made in japan marantz flagship 8012. does have earc. and a good saving at $4965 vs $6890rrp seems to be going price,

 

https://klappav.com.au/collections/marantz-specials-july-2020/products/sr8012-flagship-multiroom-11-2-ch-av-receiver-heos-dolby

https://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3169

 

this one would be hdmi bug free, though do note note the updated model is a $7k prospect, with as would expect has everything, but suspect the 8012 would do all you need ? and an example of good savings on run out, 

 

https://www.zkelectronics.com/compare/marantz-sr8015/usa/marantz-sr8012/usa/

 

no doubt be other good bargains as well, if not easter, EOFY usually next stop for some good savings on this kind of thing...

 

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On 10/03/2021 at 10:53 PM, petetherock said:

You can also consider using speakers which hang from the ceiling eg the Anthony Gallo series.

The Denon 6700 is a decent place to begin your journey, and is made in Japan no less.. 

HDMI 2.1 as well. 

Thanks
I had come across your posts and blog during my research. 
My preference is for the in-ceiling option for the height speakers.

I had looked at Denon including the 6700 but I'll confess to some form of irrational block regarding Denon AVRs. Not sure why. I guess it is a bit like BMW/Audi (I'm Audi). Plus the sticker shock for the latest model. I've had 2 Denon universal DVD players and been happy with them, Just not the AVRs.
The other issue is that HDMI 2.1 is still not stable and sorted in the first generation of AVR's. Unsurprisingly Marantz are the same spot. Yamaha seem to also be  impacted. Anthem are releasing their new '40 series models with no HDMI 2.1 promising an upgrade later.

I think I'll go for a mature HDMI 2.0b AVR that has all the bugs sorted.  My only device likely to need 4K/120 will be  a PS5 which I will connect directly to the TV and use the eARC connection to route audio back to the AVR,

 

1 hour ago, betty boop said:

@kiwimeat some easter bargains, along Pete's line thinking theres made in japan marantz flagship 8012. does have earc. and a good saving at $4965 vs $6890rrp seems to be going price,

 

https://klappav.com.au/collections/marantz-specials-july-2020/products/sr8012-flagship-multiroom-11-2-ch-av-receiver-heos-dolby

https://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3169

 

this one would be hdmi bug free, though do note note the updated model is a $7k prospect, with as would expect has everything, but suspect the 8012 would do all you need ? 

 

no doubt be other good bargains as well, if not easter, EOFY usually next stop for some good savings on this kind of thing...

 

I think the Marantz 8012 has moved into the leading spot. 

 

I've reluctantly ruled out the NAD 778 as it only has 5 HDMI inputs which is not enough. Plus is only has 9 channel amp so I would need a power amp adding more cost.

 

I've got a strong preference for an-all-in one box solution. I appreciate the limitations but the pro's outweigh the cons for me.

 

The Anthem MRX-1120 is in second place and cheaper than the 8012 (well one in the Commercial Classifieds). But I think the Marantz leads. Time for some more research.

 

Video Pro in Brisbane have both Marantz and Sony TV's so I quite like the idea of doing a deal for a purchase of both. 

 

Work has been a killer so the simple mud-map of the room is a little delayed. Will post as soon as I can.

 

Thank you both for your contributions.

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Not sure whether you know, but Audyssey is good only for movies but not music.  Hence, my suggestion to go Anthem MRX 1140, rather than 1120; the difference being reassignable amps. It provides flexibility should you want to add external amps.

 

Re the NAD T778, you can always add a HDMI hub should you need more than 5.

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48 minutes ago, Snoopy8 said:

Not sure whether you know, but Audyssey is good only for movies but not music. L

 

I keep reading this and I have to ask why? I think statements such as this should be provided with an explanation. So what makes Audyssey GOOD for movie soundtracks but NOT GOOD for stand-alone music?

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1 hour ago, Snoopy8 said:

Not sure whether you know, but Audyssey is good only for movies but not music.  Hence, my suggestion to go Anthem MRX 1140, rather than 1120; the difference being reassignable amps. It provides flexibility should you want to add external amps.

 

hi snoopy, this used to be very true re audyssey as would eq to the "cinema curve" ie the default with the BBC dip and top end roll off that it does. however this has changed with the audyssey app. people probably dont realise but you can setup two pre sets - music and movies and have one EQ curve for music and one for movies ? the one can music can be what ever you want it to be - without the bbc dip (mid range compensation) or top end roll off...or what ever heart desires. so to say audyssey is "only for movies but not for music" is no longer correct I dont think... :) re amps... denon marantz have a pre amp mode these days ... and its a true pre amp mode... if thats important to you in adding on external amps :) the denon and marantz AVRs have always made excellent processors... something i myself did once with their $5.5k AVR

 

its good to see frankly brands being more accomodating to needs.

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4 hours ago, Snoopy8 said:

Not sure whether you know, but Audyssey is good only for movies but not music.  Hence, my suggestion to go Anthem MRX 1140, rather than 1120; the difference being reassignable amps. It provides flexibility should you want to add external amps.

 

Re the NAD T778, you can always add a HDMI hub should you need more than 5.

I believe Audyssey has improved - when used correctly of course.


Plus as a long term Yamaha owner, I'm more than familiar with a sound meter (YPAO ?
Music is only maximum 10% of usage so not  a priority. 

 

My preference is for an all-in-one box solution.

So if I get a premier AVR I don't plan to add external power amp.
I have had nothing but bad experiences with HDMI hubs/splitters and distribution in the past so again everything in one box keeps it simple, 

 

I'm continuing to evaluate and research on AVR options but my original budget for this component is considerably increased.
Given that I am going to directly connect the PS5 to the TV to get 4K/120Hz, I don't really need anything that the latest generation offers, so the appeal of the last generation at a discount is very compelling.
Especially as it will still be a considerable upgrade from my Yamaha RX-A3020. 

 

3 hours ago, betty boop said:

 

hi snoopy, this used to be very true re audyssey as would eq to the "cinema curve" ie the default with the BBC dip and top end roll off that it does. however this has changed with the audyssey app. people probably dont realise but you can setup two pre sets - music and movies and have one EQ curve for music and one for movies ? the one can music can be what ever you want it to be - without the bbc dip (mid range compensation) or top end roll off...or what ever heart desires. so to say audyssey is "only for movies but not for music" is no longer correct I dont think... :) re amps... denon marantz have a pre amp mode these days ... and its a true pre amp mode... if thats important to you in adding on external amps :) the denon and marantz AVRs have always made excellent processors... something i myself did once with their $5.5k AVR

 

its good to see frankly brands being more accomodating to needs.

 

I have seen a comment/review that only the new 8015 can store more than 1 profile. But I could have misunderstood. 

 

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1 hour ago, kiwimeat said:

I have seen a comment/review that only the new 8015 can store more than 1 profile. But I could have misunderstood. 

hi kiwi. probably talking of the "speaker preset" for 8015, but with the app can store as many as you like. have a peep on youtube will see many demonstration even from sound united and one for with his TV setup and one for his projector (room environment for each is different for him and he switches between these with the app). theres no limitation or with any unit including 8012 that works with the app :)

 

all marantz remotes also have specific buttons for "music" and "movies" for instance so can select what you want processing wise as well for each. 

 

edit, if you mean smart select buttons ? the 8012 has 4 buttons for that, see its mentioned even on the video pro web page for the 8012, so yes can use remote for this too :)

 

https://www.videopro.com.au/p-12920-marantz-sr8012-112ch-av-receiver-with-heos.aspx

 

 

  • Simple Smart Select Functions
    The SR8012 has four Smart Select buttons on the front panel and the remote control: each stores a preferred setup – input, volume and Audyssey configuration – for a particular source. Push one button and the SR8012 can be perfectly configured for anything from Blu-ray or your TV set-top box to your favourite Internet radio 
     
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This is worth a read and apparently the difference between Audyssey (Movies) which is a BBC dip at 2KHz and an "X Curve" like roll-off versus Audyssey (Music/Flat).
Note that many simply use Audyssey (Music/Flat) for everything.

Also note that Audyssey (Music/Flat) has been around for years.

 

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/audyssey-or-audyssey-music-flat-for-movie.1518290/

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/validity-of-x-curve-for-cinema-sound.204/

 

I'm hoping this constant talk that Audyssey is good for movie soundtracks but somehow not good for music can, well, end.

Edited by Satanica
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6 hours ago, betty boop said:

 

hi snoopy, this used to be very true re audyssey as would eq to the "cinema curve" ie the default with the BBC dip and top end roll off that it does. however this has changed with the audyssey app. people probably dont realise but you can setup two pre sets - music and movies and have one EQ curve for music and one for movies ?

Is this out of the box?  Most people will not bother to tweak.  Why can't Audyssey have 1 curve for both movies and music, like Dirac Live and Anthem Room Correction?   That way, everyone benefits, without the need for tweaking knowledge....

 

 

3 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

I believe Audyssey has improved - when used correctly of course.

Agreed, and supports my previous point.  At best, most people will know how to use the software as it is.

 

 

2 hours ago, Satanica said:

This is worth a read and apparently the difference between Audyssey (Movies) which is a BBC dip at 2KHz and an "X Curve" like roll-off versus Audyssey (Music/Flat).
Note that many simply use Audyssey (Music/Flat) for everything.

Also note that Audyssey (Music/Flat) has been around for years.

May have been around for years else where, but in this forum, is new.   

 

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26 minutes ago, Snoopy8 said:

Is this out of the box?  Most people will not bother to tweak.  Why can't Audyssey have 1 curve for both movies and music, like Dirac Live and Anthem Room Correction?   That way, everyone benefits, without the need for tweaking knowledge....

hi snoopy, this is not a tweak really, if anyone spent 5 min on youtube you have probably a dozen folk show you how to do this. as mention sound united has their YouTube showing how. even the retailers promo material as showed talks about it. but really theres no tweaking involved as such. I didnt need youtube to use it. Just hit a slider to move mid range compensation on-off ... will see the bbc dip go away - or come back if want. In selection of eq curve they give you out of box choice of two-  one with the top end roll off other that doesnt. Its just steps in the setup and its guided through...

 

you can just use one curve for both if you want. whether its one with bbc dip and top end roll off thats audyssey default. or not select the bbc dip and roll off if you dont want either or both... the choice is there and its yours. if you want to you can also have seperate curves ... some people want this...  some people dont.

 

in the setup, you have to make a conscious effort to ignore or not make a choice (or to play to hearts content). if dont, you just get the audyssey default that it if jsut go next next next.  most folk probably go this ways. you dont even have to use the app, can just not pay $20 for the app and not have this. as to why ? well each brand has their approach dont they it ? it what makes one brand different from another. neither is right or wrong. denon / marantz is just giving you a lot of choice and flexibility on one hand and also on other hand a very simple non app version if want to just go with the flow and defaults and for many folk thats more than enough :)

 

26 minutes ago, Snoopy8 said:

Agreed, and supports my previous point.  At best, most people will know how to use the software as it is.

the software is actually very simple for what we are talking here, extremely simple never more so. the quantity of material we have on the web to support is massive i can see too, even in just minutes of exploring. makers are going to extraordinary length i think. i was always impressed with denon marantz way lead you through setup. and even more so in the av8805 i setup recently. this is good, customers need choice between simple and flexible/custom. and good brands are doing this. 

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@betty boop, for you and I, it is not a tweak.  However, I know many people who struggle to use the  room correction software; adding a new target curve is a bridge too far.  Hence, my suggestion is to make it easy to use. 

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Just now, Snoopy8 said:

@betty boop, for you and I, it is not a tweak.  However, I know many people who struggle to use the  room correction software; adding a new target curve is a bridge too far.  Hence, my suggestion is to make it easy to use. 

hi snoopy it is easy to use. infact VERY easy to use I'd suggest - easier than ever was. I know what audyssey has been like last decade or so even to extent of the pro system which was complicated as heck :DProbably have to see whats involved in the audyssey app I suggest or even the use of units - setup and config,. to see how simple it is then :) this is certainly not tweak at all, its just matter of selection or going with defaults.

 

As to suggestions - telling denon and marantz to do things like anthem do would be like telling anthem to start doing things like denon and marantz do ? each brand have their quirks and differences ... Still no harm in making the suggestion, but probably bit wasted here :D 

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Hi @kiwimeat

I can't offer much on the audio side but as for the TV i currently have a 85" sony x9000 and have found it to be great. While not OLED it is still a fantastic TV. I would definitely recommend getting the 85 over the 75 it just makes it that much more immersive. (my previous was 65")

There are some new TVs coming out this year from sony not sure when but it might give you a bit of leverage for a deal on the current gen.

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Firstly apologies the mud-map is not ready - I pulled a 14 hour day yesterday after a snafu (not mine) at work. 

 

Hoping to speak to the builder in the coming week.

Now looking at doing a complete tear down of the feature wall to make sure I have an alcove large enough for a 85" panel, add a wall plate and cabling for a second sub, and replace the two downlights in the smaller alcoves (which will be redone) with dimmable 65K LEDs.

 

I've been out looking at various options today. 

 

Some decisions have got closer and others not so much. 

 

Screen

I think I'm now settled on the Sony 75" Sony 9500H or the 9500J (if it arrives in time) for the display. 
I'll still build the alcove large enough for a 85" panel but I think the 75" is a good compromise and going for the 9500H over the 9000H for improved picture quality.

 

Actually now too worried about the 4K.120 gaming aspect after checking with a few friends who are running PS5 or Xbox. Most are staying on 4K/60Hz or dropping resolution to get HDR and full content. 

I'm not hardcore enough a gamer to be anal about it. 

 

Audio

I find myself in two minds. 

For one box solution, do I get a Marantz SR8012 while they are on offer at mid 4K? 

 

Or do I reverse direction on my previous position and get 9.2 AVR with 11.2 pre-outs and add a 2 channel power amp to drive the mains?

This has the benefit of allowing me to get a newer AVR (admittedly still with HDMI issues) and cheaper than buying new 11.2 AVR. 

 

One option I was exploring today was Marantz MM7025 2 channel amp paired with a Marantz SR6015 or Denon AVC-X3700H/X4700H.
I'll confess that after seeing the Denon's upfront I quite like them.

 

However, now that I not prioritising 4K/120 there seems even less reason to opt for a current generation AVR.

 

I've decided to strike Anthem from my list of potentials. 

 

Speakers

Pretty much locked in for the Krix Hemispherix AS. So far I've not found anything else in the low profile, sealed unit that appeals.

One set of speaker cable will be straightforward but the other is beyond my abilities. 

Anyone know any good installers in Brisbane?

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2 hours ago, jonooo said:

Hi @kiwimeat

I can't offer much on the audio side but as for the TV i currently have a 85" sony x9000 and have found it to be great. While not OLED it is still a fantastic TV. I would definitely recommend getting the 85 over the 75 it just makes it that much more immersive. (my previous was 65")

There are some new TVs coming out this year from sony not sure when but it might give you a bit of leverage for a deal on the current gen.

Thanks jonooo.

 

I keep going back and forward between the 85" 9000H and 75" 9500H.  Currently more toward the 9500H but who knows.

 

Your experience echoes that of two colleagues. 

 

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4 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

Thanks jonooo.

 

I keep going back and forward between the 85" 9000H and 75" 9500H.  Currently more toward the 9500H but who knows.

 

Your experience echoes that of two colleagues. 

 

The size is very important when you consider uhd playback kiwi . If you intend to display uhd with its dci p3 colour gamut and hdr advantages you can go with a projector with lower nits and have a smaller 2nd set for regular fta  or get a 85" led with its nit advantage and better hdr with a smaller diagonal  . I did the later only partly because a 85" is a lot more value than a few years ago and a good projector with dynamic scene by scene starts around 8k from JVC and goes up from there ..

And that gives the option one day to get a lumagen to get the best 3d lut ; the best DTM and other great features depending on the price of projector or display.. You can help 2 sources not just one with the 4240 ; the entry level ?

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15 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

I find myself in two minds. 

For one box solution, do I get a Marantz SR8012 while they are on offer at mid 4K? 

 

Or do I reverse direction on my previous position and get 9.2 AVR with 11.2 pre-outs and add a 2 channel power amp to drive the mains?

This has the benefit of allowing me to get a newer AVR (admittedly still with HDMI issues) and cheaper than buying new 11.2 AVR. 

 

One option I was exploring today was Marantz MM7025 2 channel amp paired with a Marantz SR6015 or Denon AVC-X3700H/X4700H.
I'll confess that after seeing the Denon's upfront I quite like them.

 

However, now that I not prioritising 4K/120 there seems even less reason to opt for a current generation AVR.

 

hi kiwi, i would go with stable and quality upper model that get with a decent discount, over lower model thats cutting edge and pay premium for ...

 

especially given no longer too concerned with 4k 120 ! the run out models will easily cover what hoping to do without any of the issues of the newer models.  those MM series power amps from marantz is quite expensive for what are in my opinion. ... id save the cash and grab a 7ch elektra theatre if comes up second hand instead and something can always do later with what ever get now :) 

 

re denon or marantz both are excellent. the marantz do put a bit of emphasis in efforts to do with music. but at price points both are excellent. 

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15 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

Thanks jonooo.

 

I keep going back and forward between the 85" 9000H and 75" 9500H.  Currently more toward the 9500H but who knows.

 

Your experience echoes that of two colleagues. 

 

Unless its changed in the last few months 9500h doesnt have HDMI 2.1 if that makes a difference to you. Thats why i opted for 9000H.

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Hi @kiwimeat, I'm going to go against the trend somewhat here with a different suggestion especially as you have the "home-gym" taking up a fair portion of the back of the room. Unfortunately we all keep getting sold the idea that "the more channels, the better", but when it comes to AVRs it's usually done at the expense of quality amplification. I'm actually one who believes in quality over quantity  and that "less is often more".

 

FWIW have a good think about the potential of doing the following:

  • Keep your current speakers & sub
  • Add an Elektra HD2 7 ch power amp $4000
  • Add a Panasonic UB9000 4k UDH player $1450 
  • Add an LG OLED 65CXPTA 65" TV $3000
  • Calibration of TV, UB9000 & PS4 $550
  • Add used Anthem AVM60 $2500 (there is no processor/AVR with HDMI 2.1 that I know of that is available yet). There was an AVM60 for sale when I last looked.
  • If your front speakers take spikes then I'd look at replacing them with a set of IsoAcoustic GAIA 3 to each plus the matching carpet spikes. You'll be absolutely gobsmacked how much these things increase the quality and size of your sound field. $800

So far you've spent $12.3k, which leaves another $2.7k to potentially do the following:

  • Add Atmos speakers and some Class D amplification for them: or 
  • Add a second sub: or
  • Keep it aside and add to it so you can upgrade to an AV Processor with HDMI 2.1 when they become available.
  • Maybe add a used 2ch Pre-amp with HT bypass for 2ch listening.

I suspect you're only getting a fraction of the performance that those Missions are capable of which is why I've suggested the power amp. Genuine wattage and current will take those speakers to a whole other level that no AVR can or will. 

 

Don't skimp by not getting the video calibration done. You'll be far more satisfied with a 55" screen that has been calibrated than a 65" one that hasn't. The difference is night and day. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Edited by Happy Sacks
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8 hours ago, jonooo said:

Unless its changed in the last few months 9500h doesnt have HDMI 2.1 if that makes a difference to you. Thats why i opted for 9000H.

Thanks - I am aware of this. 
At the moment the 9000h doesn't have fully functional HDMI2.1 yet as VRR is not enabled. 
And then there's the HDMI 2.1 debacle in AVRs and the possible compatibility issues in the actual Xbox and PS5.

 

In the last 2 weeks I have been round to visit see a few people running both the 9000h  in 75" and  85" , and 9500h in 65" panels and one with LG OLED.
Based on their feedback, my viewing and further research, I've decided not to get too caught up on HDMI2.1.
Most of them are gaming at max of 4K/60Hz or often lower res to get better HDR as the both the PS5 and XBOX X seem to struggle with 4K/120 or the games don't support it.

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On 15/03/2021 at 6:19 PM, Happy Sacks said:

Hi @kiwimeat, I'm going to go against the trend somewhat here with a different suggestion especially as you have the "home-gym" taking up a fair portion of the back of the room. Unfortunately we all keep getting sold the idea that "the more channels, the better", but when it comes to AVRs it's usually done at the expense of quality amplification. I'm actually one who believes in quality over quantity  and that "less is often more".

 

FWIW have a good think about the potential of doing the following:

  • Keep your current speakers & sub
  • Add an Elektra HD2 7 ch power amp $4000
  • Add a Panasonic UB9000 4k UDH player $1450 
  • Add an LG OLED 65CXPTA 65" TV $3000
  • Calibration of TV, UB9000 & PS4 $550
  • Add used Anthem AVM60 $2500 (there is no processor/AVR with HDMI 2.1 that I know of that is available yet). There was an AVM60 for sale when I last looked.
  • If your front speakers take spikes then I'd look at replacing them with a set of IsoAcoustic GAIA 3 to each plus the matching carpet spikes. You'll be absolutely gobsmacked how much these things increase the quality and size of your sound field. $800

So far you've spent $12.3k, which leaves another $2.7k to potentially do the following:

  • Add Atmos speakers and some Class D amplification for them: or 
  • Add a second sub: or
  • Keep it aside and add to it so you can upgrade to an AV Processor with HDMI 2.1 when they become available.
  • Maybe add a used 2ch Pre-amp with HT bypass for 2ch listening.

I suspect you're only getting a fraction of the performance that those Missions are capable of which is why I've suggested the power amp. Genuine wattage and current will take those speakers to a whole other level that no AVR can or will. 

 

Don't skimp by not getting the video calibration done. You'll be far more satisfied with a 55" screen that has been calibrated than a 65" one that hasn't. The difference is night and day. 

 

Hope this helps.

@Happy Sacks Thank you for your detailed and thoughtful response. Certainly a lot for me to ponder. 

 

Last things first - definitely going to get calibration done once I have the display and sources sorted. Previously had my plasma screens done in the past. 

 

I really want at least 75" 4K display so that makes OLED a considerably more expensive option over LED but the gap is closing. 

 

This system is not my primary music system. I have that elsewhere so musicality is very much secondary to the gaming, movies, sports. 

I need to allow a a grand or two for the builder to fix my feature wall.

 

Your proposal certainly has it's merits but I think I'll be trying to keep the setup a simple as possible to reduce 'support' issues from the family.

 

Despite the sudden surge in excellent second hand power amps posted just today - NAD M25 and 2 Rotels - I'm going to stay with the single-box AVR solution if I can.
Getting either the Denon or Marantz last generation 11.2 channel options will be more than enough for the tasks. 

I am no longer worried about HDMI 2.1. If my TV has it great, if not no real concern as the only device that I expect to need it is the PS5 and that is some time off.

 

I'll look into the Speaker spikes - my local dealer stocks them. I'll see I can borrow a set to try. 

 

Thanks again for the thought and effort in your post. 

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Posted (edited)

A draftsman I am not - see my Dad or brother for those skills. 

 

Blue blobs = existing speakers

Red blobs = planned new Atmos speakers in ceiling (Kris Hemishperix AS) with approximate positions forward and aft of the MLP - a very nice King Furniture 2 piece L-sofa. 

The MLP is just over 3.4 metres back from the feature wall. 

 

The room is 6.86m long on the left side, 6.57m long on the right side (due to the feature wall). 

It is 4.7m wide. 

The rear wall has a loft door to access the understair storage which holds an extensive sample of old game consoles and the snake-pit of spare cables and as yet un-built Star Wars Lego.

 

The feature wall is 3.9 m wide, 25cm deep and has recessed alcoves for the TV, centre speaker and 2 displays alcoves either side. 

My plan is to rip most of the wall down and rebuild with a recessed alcove for the new TV that will be considerably lower than current and probably also host the centre speaker. 

 

The tile floors were a compromise but a god-send for the kids and all the sleep overs hosted over the years. 
Covered up by 2 big rugs front and back. These are due for replacement. May consider fitting carpet tiles over the existing tiles. Under negotiation at the moment. 

Floor Plan with speaker positions

HT Room - Front_clear.jpg

 

The rear speakers are Mission 5ds bipoles. 

The side surrounds are Mission 771s and are angled down towards the MLP.

HT Room - Rear_clear.jpg

 

The windows on the right wall were required by code but actually do not let in much light as they face the area under our back deck.

HT Room - right side_clear.jpg

 

The left wall holds Movie and Music storage along with the rack for the equipment.

HT Room - left side_clear.jpg

 

Feature wall - with the lights down it actually really good. We like the colour (hint - changing it is non-negotiable). 

Yes - the TV is mounted too high. The new TV alcove will be lower.

20210317_135803.jpg

Edited by kiwimeat
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4 minutes ago, petetherock said:

Are those side and rear surrounds a tad high? 

A little bit. ?

 

The sides are angled down to target the MLP. 

 

The rear bipoles - definitely. 

They could move down a little but I am actually wondering if replacing them with something else might be better in the long term. 

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I'm using bipoles... they help to spread the sound, and I'm happy with their performance.. 

You have a very generous space and a nicely appointed room

If I had a choice, I'll lower the surround layer, get a bigger centre and use two subs.. oh I might want to lower the TV too?
Especially if you're going for a larger set, since you should try to get the centre of the TV at eye level when seated..

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15 minutes ago, petetherock said:

If I had a choice, I'll lower the surround layer, get a bigger centre and use two subs.. oh I might want to lower the TV too?
Especially if you're going for a larger set, since you should try to get the centre of the TV at eye level when seated..

+1 .  A nice big dappolito center channel for the dialogue Aaron .. Is the king L lounge a recliner mechanism ? That certainly helps with a larger 75 or 85" . My technics electraview retractable screen [for 2k and 3d rec709] makes the height a moot point anyway  if adding a projector later ?

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I'm partial to Dynaudios myself...

The Platinum Centre is a pretty speaker with good sound, but the Monitor Audio folks also know how to make a good HT / musical speaker. The Gold series is a good balance of budget and performance..

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7 hours ago, kiwimeat said:

The rear speakers are Mission 5ds bipoles. 

The side surrounds are Mission 771s and are angled down towards the MLP.

 

great to see the pics abs drawings kiwi, gives more clues 
 

With the above speakers I would do a swap ... bipoles (don’t think the mission  are true dipoles being out of phase) on side walls and the 771 on back wall firing forward ...

 

Bipoles work really well as sides as spread sound along walls. Will help with seating have to sides as well. the 771 monos are far too localised for sides in this arrangement. the bipoles with their slightly more diffused sound will work better here and still be localised enough to work in with 3D audio to place sounds.

this arrangement is similar to what I run and find  works very well for 7.1.4 

 

I would also lower the surrounds on the walls if possible. You do need some height differential for your heights to be heights. Around 900mm if possible .. if side speakers are above shoulder height. You find can walk past them without bumping into. The bipoles are also more discrete as sides if doing this. Looking at where have the speakers in the room imagine this is not a bother ...

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12 hours ago, betty boop said:

 

great to see the pics abs drawings kiwi, gives more clues 
 

With the above speakers I would do a swap ... bipoles (don’t think the mission  are true dipoles being out of phase) on side walls and the 771 on back wall firing forward ...

 

Bipoles work really well as sides as spread sound along walls. Will help with seating have to sides as well. the 771 monos are far too localised for sides in this arrangement. the bipoles with their slightly more diffused sound will work better here and still be localised enough to work in with 3D audio to place sounds.

this arrangement is similar to what I run and find  works very well for 7.1.4 

 

I would also lower the surrounds on the walls if possible. You do need some height differential for your heights to be heights. Around 900mm if possible .. if side speakers are above shoulder height. You find can walk past them without bumping into. The bipoles are also more discrete as sides if doing this. Looking at where have the speakers in the room imagine this is not a bother ...


Thanks for the additional input.
 

I'll consider the relocation of the bipoles to the side wall. 

The attached images have them at 1m off the floor.


The space on the side walls is tight on the left hand side (facing the screen) due to the position of the door and the . I'll have to check and look at the fit. If I can make them fit, they will be a little behind the MLP - I understand this is not necessarily a problem. 

I may need to look at repositioning the storage/display cabinets a little further down the wall to give the speaker some space. 

.1932382119_HTRoom-leftside_clearwithbipolesonsidewall.jpg.c0fa8270656452ddb16a4bb151a800fa.jpg

 

20 hours ago, cwt said:

+1 .  A nice big dappolito center channel for the dialogue Aaron .. Is the king L lounge a recliner mechanism ? That certainly helps with a larger 75 or 85" . My technics electraview retractable screen [for 2k and 3d rec709] makes the height a moot point anyway  if adding a projector later ?

The King Furniture is not a recliner - just standard sofa. 

I will be dropping the screen height down and may have it tilted too. 

I'll probably be lowering the position of the placement of the center speaker.

 

19 hours ago, petetherock said:

I'm partial to Dynaudios myself...

The Platinum Centre is a pretty speaker with good sound, but the Monitor Audio folks also know how to make a good HT / musical speaker. The Gold series is a good balance of budget and performance..

My local dealer has Dynaudio Evoke 25C slightly discounted. Maybe a future upgrade. Screen and AVR first. 

No plans for a projector. Will be happy to not have to peer at a 54" TV from over 3 metres away.

 

Thanks again to everyone for their replies. 

 

HT Room - Floor3 with bipoles on side walls.jpg

HT Room - Front_clear with bipoles on the sidewall.jpg

HT Room - Rear_clear_bipoles on side.jpg

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May I suggest, you really try to bring the surround layer down to ear level?  Trust me, it will be worth the effort..

Those ceiling Atmos speakers don't need to be full range. Most of them can crossover at pretty high frequencies without much loss of information..

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Definitely lower the rears. Something I did as well.. where had them originally was fine for 7.1 but with adding heights you need height differential to make them heights.

 

that said while ear level is ideal, from experience I also don’t believe it has to be, a bit higher is not a bother. So the surround  speaker some 600mm above year level is not bother ... or higher to if have higher ceilings. 
 

I do have a high ceiling abs get away with tad higher. Height differential works ... I still hear stuff from sides and up above.

 

infact fitting heights one thing I noticed was how lifts the sound stage ! So stuff happens all around you. Like in a bubble !

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4 hours ago, betty boop said:

Definitely lower the rears. Something I did as well.. where had them originally was fine for 7.1 but with adding heights you need height differential to make them heights.

 

that said while ear level is ideal, from experience I also don’t believe it has to be, a bit higher is not a bother. So the surround  speaker some 600mm above year level is not bother ... or higher to if have higher ceilings. 
 

I do have a high ceiling abs get away with tad higher. Height differential works ... I still hear stuff from sides and up above.

 

infact fitting heights one thing I noticed was how lifts the sound stage ! So stuff happens all around you. Like in a bubble !

 

Great to know that the investment in more speakers pays off. 

 

Lowering the height of the surrounds at the rear is difficult due to objects in the way. I can drop them maybe 500mm. 

My audience is skeptical at the moment but I have persuaded her that the end result will be better. So I can place the side surround at ear height. 

 

This morning I picked up a pair of Mission M7ds surrounds from the Classifieds to go at the sides so I will remove the M771s. 

I also scored a Mission e8C to upgrade my centre speaker. 

 

So now just the purchase of the 4 Atmos ceiling speakers plus actual logistics of running wire and installation to do and the speaker side should be sorted.

 

Focus will switch back to the AVR and TV.

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      Hey all

      Was hoping to get some advice on converting a current 3.1 setup, to a 5.1, 7.1 or 5.1.2 setup.
      I've got a rectangular space downstairs, and have allocated a section of it as a "home theater" - which really means TV + 3.1 speakers.
      It has the following limitations:
      No rear wall, as there's a sliding door Side walls are not equi-distance There are steel beams, and heating ducts within the ceiling, that may impact ceiling speaker placements (represented by the red lines)  
      Given that, if I want to enjoy surround sound, in ceiling seem to be my only option. I've attached an image of where I think in ceiling speakers should go (red dots), for either a 7.1, or a 5.1.2 setup (future proof).
      So ...
      I'm not 100% if the speakers should be angled towards the couch, or just point straight down. Can I use the same placement for a 7.1 -> 5.1.2 Should I just stick with 5.1 in that space, and if so, should I hug that rear wall, or over the couch?  
      So much thinking! Would love some advice/direction, before putting a bunch of holes in the ceiling.


    • By the_driver
      Hi
      I'm looking for a few speaker cable recommendations please for all my speakers?
      I've just bought an Audiolab 8300A to pair my front Q Acoustics 3030i speakers.
      I also have my Yamaha RX-2065V receiver with four Q Acoustics 3020 speakers, Q Acoustics QB12 subwoofer and Q Acoustics 3090ci centre speaker.
       
      I was thinking
      QED Reference XT40i for the front 3030i's because I can get them at a relatively good price (5m pair for $240) or the AudioQuest Rocket 11 (5m pair for $270). QED XT25 for the 3020 speakers as the runs are going to be longer with these being used for surrounds for movies. QED Reference XT40i for the QB12 subwoofer.
      I'm quite open to recommendations though (but would be interested in your reasoning) and buying used items speaker cables. Thanks in advance.
    • By happydoomer
      Hi guys, going to to trying out some new speakers soon & wondering if anyone has any feedback on either Q acoustic 3050i or Castle Knight 3 or 4s. Luv the look of the Mahogany Castles by the way. Thanks in advance Ben.
    • By Mcka
      Hi,
       
      I'm very new to audio. My current experience is related to headphones. I recently got some HD6xx (HD650) and a JDS Labs Atom and I love it. My only problem is that now my other audio equipment sounds awful in comparison.
       
      I have borrowed some speakers from my Dad who no longer uses them. As the title suggests they are Canton Karat 300's. The specs that I found online are as follows-
       
      Manufacturer: Canton Model: Karat 300 Production Years: 1986 - 1987 Produced in: Deutschland Color: Black, White, Walnut Measurements: 310 x 500 x 290 mm (WxHxD) Weight: 13,8 kg
      Technical Data
      Form: 3-Way closed, Compact loudspreaker (aka Bookshelf speaker) Chassis: Woofer: 260 mm Cone Midrange: 38 mm Dome Tweeter: 20 mm Dome Loading: 90/130 W (RMS/Peak) Sensitivity: 91,2 dB Frequency Response: 25 - 30.000 Hz Crossover points: 850 / 4.200 Hz Impedence: 8 Ohm  
      I have been trying to figure out what kind of amp I should use to power them. They won't be in a massive room but I don't want to underpower them and cause damage (I've read that under powering can cause damage, please correct me if I'm mistaken).
       
      Can anyone suggest an amp that would do these speakers justice without driving price up very high. I'd prefer to be spending $400 or less if possible (I've got a feeling that this might not be possible). I can't figure out what kind of power I need and whether I should be looking at using my atom as a preamp. Essentially I'm confused and the more reading I do the more confused I'm becoming about what is needed. Haha! 
       
      Any advice would be most appreciated.
       
      Thanks for your time!
       
       




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