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Resolving power cables do they really make a difference


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36 minutes ago, Plasmod3 said:

 

Let me know how I can try your cables? 

 

 

I'll send you a PM, P3.

 

36 minutes ago, Plasmod3 said:

The pp you see in the photo are for the non audio gear. The audio pps are behind the speakers can't be seen here and are specially installed

 

 

Although, from this pic:

 

36 minutes ago, Plasmod3 said:

 

20210301_194729.jpg

 

 

... if those are your PCs then I'm not sure mine will work in your system - as mine have:

  • a 3-pin mains plug on one end, and
  • an IEC connector on the other?

 

Andy

 

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3 hours ago, Plasmod3 said:

attached is a photo of my system. i will like to think...i know what i am talking about here ?

20210306_002613 (1).jpg

where are you sitting mate? In front of the speakers?

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3 hours ago, Plasmod3 said:

There is a clear line here of hoping to help and skmekne who doesn't want to be helped? I think we best move back to the original poster's question. Ittaku? of course you do know thay the msb founder and owner was arrested for raping his own daughter right? ? Google it. Know what you buy.... Price is a guide but there is sooo much more to making a purchase.... 

pardon my ignorance of rape and metallurgy but what’s a skmekne?

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@blakey72 the OP - I say unto you, a few years ago I thought that my new purchase of a few more power cords will just flesh out my system and being 'affected by' the general wisdom I put the new and more expensive "shielded" etc cord on my Amp (SS by the way) and it was ok. Not great, but.... gave it a while. After a few weeks, I switched it with the CD player/DAC cord and it was noticeably the best combo. By a country mile.  Let us know how you go. Cheers.

 

 

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Right cable for the right component guys and don't forget to give it time to burn in. Cables that don't sound good out of the box often improve quite a bit after 200hours are in. Some cables work synergistically as well so the more you use of their metallurgy the better the benefit. This applies to both signal and power cables

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3 hours ago, andyr said:

 

Sorry, but ... how does a picture showing you have a lot of expensive gear ... prove you know anything?

 

Andy

 

because he tried and experienced by his own ear.

34 minutes ago, Plasmod3 said:

Behind the table I guess

ok.. I saw a chair in front of the table and thought you sit there... much better behind the table :D 

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I'm surprised by some of the comments on this thread, my experiences are definitely in favour of after market power cables.

Just recently I tried out an entry level Chord cable on my Marantz KI Ruby SACD player swapping out a power cable with a Furutech head.

To think I was surprised was an understatement. Swapped in and out a number of times, Chord clearly more refined and came out on top, and no fancy Rhodium heads.

Had a go with the kettle chords....oh no no....terrible. Simply my experience.

 

Frank.

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10 minutes ago, maximus said:

I'm surprised by some of the comments on this thread, my experiences are definitely in favour of after market power cables.

Just recently I tried out an entry level Chord cable on my Marantz KI Ruby SACD player swapping out a power cable with a Furutech head.

To think I was surprised was an understatement. Swapped in and out a number of times, Chord clearly more refined and came out on top, and no fancy Rhodium heads.

Had a go with the kettle chords....oh no no....terrible. Simply my experience.

I did not question whether they help or not as that was not up for question on this thread and offtopic (though I was then asked what I use and why so that question was put on me instead); I was trying to get to the bottom of what the special metallurgy combo was to create dedicated power cables for different components.

Edited by Ittaku
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5 hours ago, Plasmod3 said:

he asked where best to put a power cable in - that answer will depend on how the cable is build and with what materials. simple answer

Well it's not a 'great' cable. It's copper ad only just better than a kettle cable but I plan on getting somethig better soon. ot huge money, just a step up say $200-$300 a cable just for curiosity sakes.

 

http://www.rkcable.com.au/VFMpowercord.htm

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8 minutes ago, Ittaku said:

I did not question whether they help or not as that was not up for question on this thread and offtopic (though I was then asked what I use and why so that question was put on me instead); I was trying to get to the bottom of what the special metallurgy combo was to create dedicated power cables for different components.

 

I have a clue what it might be.. no wait, that isn't a conductive material is it...

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34 minutes ago, blakey72 said:

Well it's not a 'great' cable. It's copper ad only just better than a kettle cable but I plan on getting somethig better soon. ot huge money, just a step up say $200-$300 a cable just for curiosity sakes.

 

http://www.rkcable.com.au/VFMpowercord.htm

hmm - i think from what i can read this is not ofc or upocc copper. multistranded and a lot of small strands there too as well. Something like this will be great for current so it will work best for a high current draw - best to your amp then . Blakey - best save the money for other cables - this one is going to be basic and will be quite similar to the power cords you have in the wall except that this is shielded. Shielding is good but it has to be right as well and connected up right. for eg on the wall plug side - (and it might be right but just to illustrate)  -  open up the plug and see if the shileding is connected to the earth wire there. If it is not connected than the shielding is as good as being  not there. Shielding is both to protect your components from rfi or emi and also to protect your cable itself from external emi and rfi too. The best protection for this will be a litz cable with a good full coverage shield on top of it. theres a lot of depth to this but hopefully that is a start matey:-)

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10 minutes ago, Plasmod3 said:

...not ofc or upocc copper. multistranded and a lot of small strands there too as well. Something like this will be great for current so it will work best for a high current draw...

I'm curious about why you make that call about high current.

High current situations use busbars (solid metal), why would many fine strands be an indicator of suitability for high current?

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Quick call has turned into 90 replies and arguments...time to change the title to; Long Call About  Power Cables.

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5 minutes ago, Luc said:

Quick call has turned into 90 replies and arguments...time to change the title to; Long Call About  Power Cables.

Was it ever going to be any different to what has actually happened?

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When I get my new house with purpose built listening room, I will be extensively testing many cables and components. Sorry, I didn't mean to start a cable war. I'm just dipping my toes in small tweaks atm.

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20 minutes ago, blakey72 said:

When I get my new house with purpose built listening room, I will be extensively testing many cables and components. Sorry, I didn't mean to start a cable war. I'm just dipping my toes in small tweaks atm.

Get your mains circuits sorted first mate. If you can isolate low current and high current circuits all good. Remember to isolate your equipment to the point of keeping power supplies away from delicate circuits. And of course, this means how you run your cables. Interconnects, Speaker cables etc. The less EMF in delicate areas the better.Then start testing different power cables. I'm sure that some companies will loan you their up market cables. Take your time and after your system is up and running well, start experimenting. You will always get the "Confuser's" in a post like this.

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