Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 It is quite frustrating to see the timber joint cut and there are gap on joint when two pieces joint together each time I cut. My skill must be not good because whenever I watch youtubers doing precise cut and joint perfectly without any gap. Is there a hidden secret to cut precise 45 degree for mitre timber joint? I am using Ozito budget compound mitre saw so tool is not fancy at all but it should do the job, I guess. Any tip and suggestion would be greatly appreciated and stop wasting timbers after timbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janus77 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Maybe post up a video of how you're cutting and someone might be able to give you advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, Janus77 said: Maybe post up a video of how you're cutting and someone might be able to give you advice. I am planning to do another attempt this late afternoon or tomorrow morning. Might try to take some photos to demonstrate my novice skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunno77 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/ozito-ozscms1600wa first post from Mick explains a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr 57 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Is the mitre open at the front ? If so it could be your joint is touching at the back , check the blade is dropping square to the table. If the mitre is open and not parallel, it could be the saw needs adjustment. Pics would help Edited December 23, 2020 by Mr 57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janus77 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 16 minutes ago, Bunno77 said: https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/ozito-ozscms1600wa first post from Mick explains a bit Cracking review by Mick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gee Emm Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 1 hour ago, Spider27 said: Ozito budget This is where your problem is. You may have saved $100-$150, but now unfortunately you have a tool that you can't use. Buy once; cry once! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 I thought that it is Ozito but it is actually GMC. Here is the pic just took. If I got the model correctly, it is GMC ADB10CMS or similar. Not sure if it is any better than Ozito, though. I just been to Bunnings and got another piece of timber and will try again and take some photos for entertainment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janus77 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Pretty chunky teeth on that saw blade. Maybe go a bit slower when cutting through to keep the cut clean? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 1 minute ago, Janus77 said: Pretty chunky teeth on that saw blade. Maybe go a bit slower when cutting through to keep the cut clean? Yep. Very chunky teeth. I think that this is good for cutting large thick timber for construction but not very good option for delicate woodworking purpose. I did not know what is good or bad for the purpose so got this used awhile ago. Might be a bad choice for the purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 Just reading some best buy for Mitre saw and skill is important but tool also makes difference. If I understood correctly, If sliding function is not required, then go for mitre saw without slider to get the best bang for the buck and two brand names keep coming up. DeWalt and Makita. Both are quite expensive but might worth the extra for perfect cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbo9000 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Looks like close to 20 tooth blade - so for finer cutting go to 60 or 40. While Ozito is at cheaper end it may flex more (and not last as long), but you should still have a go at using aligning to make sure the saw is accurate - 90 deg and 45 deg are both easy to measure with a plastic triangle protractor on both axes. Then see how you go. And you should be able top lock the slide if you don't need it for width of wood you are cutting. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mac Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 I borrowed my father-in-law's mitre saw six months ago when building frames for my acoustic panels/artwork and quickly learned how important the setup process is to achieving decent accurate cuts on cheaper saws. I bought some extra 'sacrificial' pieces of timber and probably made 15 cuts before I was 100% happy and the angles were correct - and based upon my experience, you need to ensure that both the mitre AND the bevel is correctly set. I disregarded the measurement scales on the saw itself and relied upon measurements of the cut timber itself. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, pete_mac said: I borrowed my father-in-law's mitre saw six months ago when building frames for my acoustic panels/artwork and quickly learned how important the setup process is to achieving decent accurate cuts on cheaper saws. I bought some extra 'sacrificial' pieces of timber and probably made 15 cuts before I was 100% happy and the angles were correct - and based upon my experience, you need to ensure that both the mitre AND the bevel is correctly set. I disregarded the measurement scales on the saw itself and relied upon measurements of the cut timber itself. Good advice. i will measure the actual timber itself and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihearmusic Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 First and foremost, Ozito tools are c..p. If you want precision invest in a trade quality machine like a makita as a minimum. Setting up your saw properly is essential as the factory set up is not accurate. Dummy cut after setting up and recheck with a dummy bit of timber every so often is necessary. I use a makita to cut my wood enclosure for my builds and have had no problems. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 Just now, Ihearmusic said: First and foremost, Ozito tools are c..p. If you want precision invest in a trade quality machine like a makita as a minimum. Setting up your saw properly is essential as the factory set up is not accurate. Dummy cut after setting up and recheck with a dummy bit of timber every so often is necessary. I use a makita to cut my wood enclosure for my builds and have had no problems. It is a beautiful work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihearmusic Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, Spider27 said: It is a beautiful work Tank you. Once you set up your gear properly you will be able to do nice work as well. The enclosure is 140MM high, so if the saw is out just by a fraction it will show up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray4410 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 the blade is far too course for fine work,a 60 tooth fine cut blade is the go,you need to check that the blade is at 90 degree's to the table,place an accurate carpenters or engineer's square on the bed of the saw and lower the blade sliding the square against the blade,there should be no gaps the length of the square if so adjust the tilt of the blade until it is a snug fit to the square. do a few 45 degree cuts and check them with a square,you may have to adjust the 45 degree setting, 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThirdDrawerDown Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Ray, that is excellent instruction for the n00bs here such as myself. Bookmarked. I'm guessing that the method (with associated trial-and-error and sacrifice pieces) should work even for GMC unless the shaft or bearing is stuffed or unable to be made secure. I've worked my way up to Makita-level from GMC (the lowest end) and Ozito (slightly better) as and when I could afford to upgrade. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPR08Y Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 No fun doing mitres on a sliding compound saw. I am fortunate to have a few of these to use https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/festool-kapex-ks-12-slide-compound-mitre-saw-561288.html at work and still struggle at the 45 deg setting. I'm way too fussy at times (A problem I have, apparently...) It is essential to have a good mitre square to check your cuts and I've found that swinging the whole saw from left to right is often problematic. Some great advice in this thread! Best path forward: Good quality saw - sometimes you just have to work with what you have got. Good quality mitre square and try square to aid in setup. Multiple practice cuts on sacrificial pieces of timber. Adjust 45 deg setting if needed and possible... Always have a sacrificial piece at the back of the cut to prevent tear out. Be very careful that after getting the angle correct small amount of saw dust along the fence or your sacrificial piece of timber can throw out your carefully set 45 deg angle. Be careful to make sure the piece you are cutting is exactly vertical, hard against the fence (which is hopefully square) - a slight lean in or out will leave a little gap at the top or bottom. Tall mitres will be the hardest on the sliding compound saw. Clamp timber if there are clamps integral to your saw. If you are making boxes ensure opposite sides are exactly the same length, a 1/2mm here and there will compound around the box and throw the whole thing out. I do most of my mitres using the table saw using the tilting arbour and hold the timber against the fence on the sliding table. Very small adjustments to blade tilt are easily made on it. Still hard along long edges, ie: as you may need on speaker cabinets. Hopefully that may help. (sounds way to lecturery, my dad would tell me to stop talking to him like a teacher...) Cheers, Michael 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Old Man Rubber Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Ignore the angles on the Ozito/GMC saws, they are rarely precise enough for fine timber work and they will also cut two different angles when used even without moving the settings. There is too much slop in them for fine work. OK for big stuff / framing timber. For smaller work, the battery powered Ryobi circular saws are excellent when combined with a solid work surface, careful manual measurement and good clamps. Timber is a PITA, everything comes down to the prep, not the 30 seconds making the cut. And be very careful selecting your timber, you can't cut away warps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat-with-one-t Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Agree with Michael above, and other here. I am looking to set up my shed for some woodworking projects. A few things.... - a high quality mitre saw will be needed. I too have access to the Festo unit. It has handy laser guides which, once set up well work really well. Unfortunately this is an expensive bit of kit!! - I also have access to a Festo Domino biscuit joiner. Now i use it for every mitre I do! It allows you to create 45deg biscuits that are very accurately matched on either piece of timber along your join, and guide your work into place. Again, expensive, but if you plan to do more and more joins, maybe worth an investment? https://www.festool.com.au/df-500-domino-joining-machine_574328.html - if you have a local timber workshop, ask them! With big jobs, I have made my laminated sections (biscuit joins), clamped and glued them, and then rather than trying to cut a difficult mitre myself, I take it to a local workshop. They have a massive thicknesses/sander, so we run the pieces through that 1st, then they have a massive saw with a dead-flat fence/fence/jig to make a cut. They often do all this for maybe $50-100 bucks on the spot. - if it makes you feel better, this mitre on the kitchen bench I made kept me awake at night for 3 years!! Edited December 23, 2020 by Mat-with-one-t 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 The blade that I have is too coarse as others mentioned and have splinters on cut edges so check the better quality blade for fine woodworking and blade alone costs $110. If I am not going to replace mitre saw, at least replace with good quality blade for better result. https://www.bunnings.com.au/diablo-254mm-60-teeth-mitre-saw-blade_p6370358 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider27 Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 30 minutes ago, Mat-with-one-t said: Agree with Michael above, and other here. I am looking to set up my shed for some woodworking projects. A few things.... - a high quality mitre saw will be needed. I too have access to the Festo unit. It has handy laser guides which, once set up well work really well. Unfortunately this is an expensive bit of kit!! - I also have access to a Festo Domino biscuit joiner. Now i use it for every mitre I do! It allows you to create 45deg biscuits that are very accurately matched on either piece of timber along your join, and guide your work into place. Again, expensive, but if you plan to do more and more joins, maybe worth an investment? https://www.festool.com.au/df-500-domino-joining-machine_574328.html - if you have a local timber workshop, ask them! With big jobs, I have made my laminated sections (biscuit joins), clamped and glued them, and then rather than trying to cut a difficult mitre myself, I take it to a local workshop. They have a massive thicknesses/sander, so we run the pieces through that 1st, then they have a massive saw with a dead-flat fence/fence/jig to make a cut. They often do all this for maybe $50-100 bucks on the spot. - if it makes you feel better, this mitre on the kitchen bench I made kept me awake at night for 3 years!! Gorgeous kitchen bench and love the wood grain and colour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPR08Y Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Love the Festool Domino machine too! They are the bomb - both sizes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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