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Which Solder Sucker do you Rec?


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Hello,

 

I have used a couple of cheap solder sucker and both of them did not last and each time tip off the excess solder and put them back, the sucking power gets less and less and not very effective any longer.

 

May I  ask what solder sucker do you use? 

 

I saw some review on Engineer SS-02 and just wondering if there is any local one that is as good as this expensive Japanese one.

 

Thank you..  :) 

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I bought a solder sucker way back in the 70s when I thought I needed one.    Never thought it was very effective, and yes it didn't last long..  Ever since I've always used desoldering braid.

 

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I use one of these, brought online from RS or EL14 or... about 10 years ago, still going strong after 20+ amp recaps, yeah, I should buy a desoldering station but shy away from the big $$$'s

 

image.png.6f54007e1abb31247487efcd309a2c12.png

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I use a wick more that a manual sucker these days, I find the manual suckers very awkward to use effectively, or that just me.

 

But for bigger jobs but more expensive a de-soldering station is much easier.

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I have a couple of desolder stations but unless there's a ton of solder to remove I also find wick to be the most effective method

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tubularbells
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I think that I need to change my perception towards desoldering wick. I used once with cheap one and it did not do anything so quickly moved on and got the pump instead. 

 

What brands of wick  are the good ones to use with? 

 

The one that I tried and threw away was cheapo Chinese one got from Jaycar.

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Some I have had from jaycar were better than others I got from there, I think they have changed their supply and the ones now are not as good.

 

Helps to apply some flux to the wick section you are going to use, and to the job, I use a flux pen from jaycar.

 

I'd also like to know of good wick/braid brands :)

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I use these cheap solder suckers for small jobs:

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vacuum-De-solder-Gun-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Removal-Remover-T-C-YU/193789848504?hash=item2d1ec66bb8:g:uwkAAOSw3ZhdIrEH&frcectupt=true

 

For larger jobs - an Aoyue 474A desoldering station (pretty basic/agricultural, but readily serviceable and it has never missed a beat)

 

aoyue.JPG.b7237e61821962f1e2e7872f1b106c8c.JPG

 

 

Desoldering braid - Chemtronics Soder-wick brand - I have a few reels varying from 1.5mm to 3mm width or thereabouts, depending upon what the job requires:

 

https://au.element14.com/chemtronics/8045/desoldering-braid-1-524m-2-8mm/dp/559994?st=desoldering

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It depends on the job. For larger sized pads, on single sided board vintage gear, with bigger than 3mm pads and blobs of solder, I use a small manual solder sucker I bought back in the 70's. Heat till you see the solder has properly melted, without overheating the pad, then remove the bulk of the solder. After doing all the pads that need doing, I finish it up by going over all the pads with #3 or #4 Soder-Wick

 

Smaller pitch single sided boards, I just use the Soder-Wick. And with the Soder-Wick, even though it does have flux on it, I always give it a bit of a flex, to loosen the braid a bit, then apply a small amount of flux, like @muon* mentioned. Also, put a small dab of solder on the braid, to act as a heat bridge, to transfer the heat quickly.

 

For through plated holes, especially when desoldering ICs, I use a Royel rework station, with a vacuum desoldering iron. The only problem with using the desoldering iron, is that you have to clear and clean the barrel after every 20 to 30 pads, depending on how much solder is on the joints. Sometimes, with through plated holes, you may have removed most of the solder, but not enough to remove the part. Rather than persist and try and heat the joint more, to remove the rest, it is better to let it cool, then add a bit of solder to the joint, then once it has cooled sufficiently again, repeat the removal procedure.

 

Whichever method you use, you need a big enough tip and sufficiently powered iron to be able to melt the joint quickly (under 3 seconds), or you will lift pads. An under powered iron, applied for too long will do damage to the board.

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I could not resist to test so I tried to locate any solder wick and found one that I thought that I thew away but stored in one of the drawers.

I tried it on one of old board and I do not usually swear but I used lot of foul words. It just does not suck the solder no matter how long I put it on. Then I took @muon* & @bob_m_54 's advice and used solder flux and it did wonder.... It suck the solder out of it and joy to watch those copper thread turning into silver colour.  

 

I just ordered Hakko desolder wick and it should arrive later this week. Keen to try better quality wick to see if it helps even more.

 

Thank you for your suggestion and advice.

 

(P.S.) I still keen to get Engineer S02 solder sucker. It looks cool and the sound it makes so satisfying. :) 

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I have one of these for when it is needed, this makes things easy through hole PCB's if doing a recap. Good for large blobs on P2P too just have to change the tip.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140W-Desoldering-Station-Temperature-controlled-Vacuum-Suction-Desoldering-Gun/114291382914?hash=item1a9c4c1a82:g:yAQAAOSw0bpfAtmt&frcectupt=true

 

Would love a Hakko one.

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11 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

I just ordered Hakko desolder wick and it should arrive later this week. Keen to try better quality wick to see if it helps even more.

I'll have to try the Hakko stuff too, they make nice soldering stations and other gear so their wick should be good :thumb:

 

Has to be better than the jaycar stuff 9_9

Edited by muon*
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Two best known brands of wick are Solder-Wick and Chem-Wick.

But most will do provided they are... fresh.

The ones from Jaycar work well too.

As with everything you get to develop your own technique.

Years ago, when I worked at RadioLab in Balcatta, there was an otherwise useless lady who put the 40pin µP wrong way round in about 70 boards. The processors were $40 each and it was in the 80s..

But one thing she said stuck with me for the rest of my working life:

"It takes solder to de-solder"

So for effective braid de-soldering, get your fresh and trimmed braid ready (making sure it is the right width for the amount of solder to be extracted) and...

heat the joint and apply some more solder.

When it is flowing, insert the wick and press it down with the iron. It will then flow nicely.

This is good for small jobs.

For the larger ones, with huge ground planes, start with BIG manual sucker to remove bulk of it.

 

For re-caps and delicate boards, solder station is a must. In the 80s and 90 they were $400+

Now they are $148 (went up, for  they were last year around $120 mark).

https://www.altronics.com.au/p/t2065-micron-90w-vacuum-desoldering-station/

That is if you have a trade account with them 😉

Which I do not but have a friend who does.

Works very well.

Get all the sizes of the nozzles. If it does not work and it is not clogged, replace the nozzle for the right size.

If one keeps the board vertical, components are then horizontal and you do not fight gravity. It works so much better. I can cleanly remove most capacitors in 3 to 4 seconds and re-capping is a breeze.

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