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Upgrading old tt from 70's


anewmission

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3 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

I'm curious as to why you thought this - where did you get this idea from?

 

 

Maybe, Suzy, he was thinking about 'lab instrument' cables?

 

Andy

 

All the expensive guitar cables in my store ie: pig hog. Say low resistance on the packaging.. so I just guessed that the cheapies aren't low resistance.

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Remember than any audio cable connected to a turntable should be low capacitance. 

 

I don't see the point of installing RCA sockets on the back of a turntable, it invites the use of standard (higher-capacitance) cables, and an additional connection point.  I think it's better to have RCA plugs one end and the other end directly connected to the tonearm. 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, audiofeline said:

Remember than any audio cable connected to a turntable should be low capacitance. 

 

I don't see the point of installing RCA sockets on the back of a turntable, it invites the use of standard (higher-capacitance) cables, and an additional connection point.  I think it's better to have RCA plugs one end and the other end directly connected to the tonearm. 

 

 

I understand your theory, however it's a totally different design, the rca plug is not going directly to the tone arm. I will take some photo's . I will be making two pairs of RCA's with exactly the same cabling and if it doesn't sound as good as it did before I did the upgrades, then yes I will solder directly to the tt internals.

 

My project carbon is soldered directly to the tone arm. But this is a very old design on the cec. 

 

Any Tech's here able to chime in regarding the ac connection??

Before the thread gets hijacked haha

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If you have a two-pin power plug, I don't think it matters which way you connect the power cord.  At worst, the motor will turn in the opposite direction which will indicate that the connections are the wrong way around (but being AC I don't think that will occur).  However, I'm not a technician or an electrician. 

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If you have the US/Japanese style 2 pin plug, that plugs into the rear of some vintage amps (eg, switched outlets) then doesn't really matter, however I would suggest for consistency, brown wire (active) connects to switch. Blue wire (neutral) connects to the return wire from transformer.  Inspect the cap across the switch (snubber, aka spark killer) some of the early RIFA caps were prone to failure,leave alone if looks ok.

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On 14/12/2020 at 6:50 AM, mbz said:

If you have the US/Japanese style 2 pin plug, that plugs into the rear of some vintage amps (eg, switched outlets) then doesn't really matter, however I would suggest for consistency, brown wire (active) connects to switch. Blue wire (neutral) connects to the return wire from transformer.  Inspect the cap across the switch (snubber, aka spark killer) some of the early RIFA caps were prone to failure,leave alone if looks ok.

Cheers thankyou very much

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1 hour ago, anewmission said:

What about the neutrik's pro-fi jacks? Any good? 

I need some to accommodate quite a large cable.

Any benefit to using silver solder or will I be wasting more bucks?

Actually I just pulled the rubber grommits out of the last pair of reans I bought and it's a good size fit.

 

This current setup I have been describing is my second room setup .

So I think reans should be ok, but as I am ordering such a small amount of cabling from cliff I may as well order some more rca sockets.

Anyone have a preference on cliffs website?

I should really order today so it's here before xmas

 

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3 hours ago, anewmission said:

Actually I just pulled the rubber grommits out of the last pair of reans I bought and it's a good size fit.

 

This current setup I have been describing is my second room setup .

So I think reans should be ok, but as I am ordering such a small amount of cabling from cliff I may as well order some more rca sockets.

Anyone have a preference on cliffs website?

I should really order today so it's here before xmas

 

They only list one RCA socket and it is a chassis mount one details as seen here.

 

https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nf2d-9

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21 hours ago, anewmission said:

What about the neutrik's pro-fi jacks? Any good? 

I need some to accommodate quite a large cable.

Any benefit to using silver solder or will I be wasting more bucks?

It's not actually silver solder, which commonly refers to hard solder used in brazing.

For electronics soldering, a silver loaded solder can be beneficial to prevent silver "scavenging" when soldering to silver plated parts. It also has good mechanical strength, and usually improves whetting. I like Multicore 1.2mm Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 solder personally, for soldering anything other than very small pitch solder pads.

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6 hours ago, bob_m_54 said:

It's not actually silver solder, which commonly refers to hard solder used in brazing.

For electronics soldering, a silver loaded solder can be beneficial to prevent silver "scavenging" when soldering to silver plated parts. It also has good mechanical strength, and usually improves whetting. I like Multicore 1.2mm Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 solder personally, for soldering anything other than very small pitch solder pads.

Cheers thanks.

I will look into that.

I made an order with cliff but the neutrik's were on back order so I just said give me whatever you have in stock. 

Kind of looks exciting to see what turns up

 

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On 13/12/2020 at 9:02 PM, audiofeline said:

If you have a two-pin power plug, I don't think it matters which way you connect the power cord.  At worst, the motor will turn in the opposite direction which will indicate that the connections are the wrong way around (but being AC I don't think that will occur).  However, I'm not a technician or an electrician. 

Depends on the circuit, but in 99% of cases it absolutely DOES matter where active and neutral go.

 

Active(brown) - fuse - switch - transformer (or motor if AC synchronous)

 

Neutral (Blue) - transformer (or motor if AC synchronous)

 

REMEMBER, neutral and earth are equipotential at the M.E.N. which should be at the fuse box.  Meaning that neutral conductors are referenced to earth.

If you swap the active and neutral wires, something does wrong and the internal fuse blows, the chassis of the device will still be active !!!

 

If you are not confident, don't touch !

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28 minutes ago, anewmission said:

I just did an ebay search for wbt connectors. They look really high end. Any good??

Like these?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-WBT-0144-Gold-Plated-RCA-Locking-Plugs-Audio-Video-Connectors-/253341972535

The signal pin is low mass which is cool, but the negative is not, I preferred the low mass designs like the old ETI ones.

Star Line has some made like the old ETI ones.

 

The old ETI type

20200116_134946.jpg.d5da7d9554b1084bd88ba360c1db2aff.jpg20200116_135129.jpg.437447a0802f6fb4aee0434aabaa46f7.jpg

 

As you see both the signal and return are both low mass on these old ETI ones, I secured the cable using adhesive shrink.

I could have made it tidier than that.

 

Star Line have ones designed like these, but not sure what price, would need to find best price.

Edited by muon*
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On 21/12/2020 at 6:17 PM, muon* said:

What about xlr jacks?

Any favourites for those?

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1 hour ago, anewmission said:

Do you mind checking these out and letting me know what you think?

 

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32810069582.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spider=y

Model:XR001

Conductor:Brass

Plating:Silver plated

 

I don't like Brass as It's not a very good conductor.

 

But different folk have different standards where connectors are concerned.

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6 hours ago, muon* said:

Model:XR001

Conductor:Brass

Plating:Silver plated

 

I don't like Brass as It's not a very good conductor.

 

But different folk have different standards where connectors are concerned.

 

I saw in their description just the outer sheild is brass.

However I definitely don't trust anything from eBay.

Hopefully someone uses xlr's or has done some nice diy.

I have been using pig hog cables from my work for xlr. Lifetime warranty but I still think I can make some better ones

 

 

 

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