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New project - TG’s Faital 3 way classic 15”


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12 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

 

 

A6B2474E-1B85-4874-AAA5-BF903F91E205.jpeg

Looking great - I think copper screws would finish off the look, and they supposedly improve SQ. 

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Woohoo!!   for reference, that’s a 60 inch TV.  It’s a bit difficult to get a perspective on that photo.  The entertainment unit is 2m wide.  

Howdy folks, ordered and paid yesterday for the tweeters, crossover components and various bits and pieces from Jantzen Audio, I went for the more basic kit with fabric tweeters and the lower (but sti

Well, the wood screws provided appear to be a slightly narrower head diameter than the holes on the 15" woofer.  Enough to have a listen, but a couple have just screwed straight through flush on the w

They look darker when vertical too (ie. the scrapes aren't as visible in person when vertical). 

Ok ok, I rushed, i'm not stripping them back now though!  And it's character, people love character, right?  Not really noticeable from seated listening distance.

How long does Poly need to dry so it's hard?  I'm probably on coat 7 or 8, if i'm sanding them back tomorrow am i leaving enough time?  It's so damn humid at present the curing process must be quite slow.

 

Troels says he's working on The Loudspeaker 3! http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm#My_System

Holy tolido Batman!  Exciting times.

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On 15/12/2020 at 8:41 PM, Janus77 said:

Troels says he's working on The Loudspeaker 3!

 

Well spotted. I felt something! Need a trip to the bank - to put my credit card in a safety deposit box.

 

All the best for today.

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As is the norm, i was unable to complete my optimistic jobs list.  However this time i accepted and refused to be rushed.  I did however make quite a bit of progress.

1. support rings for woofers cut, sanded and installed.

2. A braces modified to go around woofer support rings (i still need to do some fine tuning on these)

3. Tweeter boxes constructed

4. binding post holes drilled

5. 1 box completely glued apart from front and rear baffle

6. 1 box glued to second stage (just needs opposing side, top and bottom glued in.

7. mid driver holes chamfered 45%

8. Grill frame lengths cut, 45 degree mitered ends, 45 degree inward facing side.

9. Port tubes cut.  Brian i used the band saw with the parallel rip fence set, and just kept biting away at it turning the tube around until eventually they came apart.  A good result.

 

What took longer than expected?  The glue up, first stage was painless apart from having to dry mount the top, bottom and opposing side to ensure the braces were straight.  Second stage was ok too, third stage required quite a bit of prep.  The rebates weren't quite deep enough so i had to use a small rebating plane which was a hell of a lot of fun, when you get the blade just right it's better than a hot knife through butter.  Very satisfying hand planing wood!  Also one of the braces was slightly off centre so i had to widen a rebate slightly.  

It's hard to express how much i'm enjoying the workshop, building these speakers has been quite a journey of learning and problem solving, highly engaging.

 

Anyway the long and short i managed to get 1 box glued up as straight as I would have hoped for.  with a rear baffle inserted to ensure they fit.  The baffle has masking tape on it so any glue wont bond to the wood.

 

I did scrape the poly off a small section of the front baffle when cutting the 2nd woofer hole.  Polyurethane seems to need more than 1 day to cure properly.  The test piece i made is rock hard now after several weeks.  For the first few days it stays a little soft and should not be touched if it can be avoided.  Anyway i'll sand it back and put a bunch more coats on, will be fine.  Plan to sand the front baffles in a week or so after i've put another few coats on.  Nearly out of polurethane varnish though.

 

F7485A12-6A99-45EE-9A75-73A874E5960C.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Janus77 said:

 

 

As is the norm, i was unable to complete my optimistic jobs list.  However this time i accepted and refused to be rushed.  I did however make quite a bit of progress.

1. support rings for woofers cut, sanded and installed.

2. A braces modified to go around woofer support rings (i still need to do some fine tuning on these)

3. Tweeter boxes constructed

4. binding post holes drilled

5. 1 box completely glued apart from front and rear baffle

6. 1 box glued to second stage (just needs opposing side, top and bottom glued in.

7. mid driver holes chamfered 45%

8. Grill frame lengths cut, 45 degree mitered ends, 45 degree inward facing side.

9. Port tubes cut.  Brian i used the band saw with the parallel rip fence set, and just kept biting away at it turning the tube around until eventually they came apart.  A good result.

 

What took longer than expected?  The glue up, first stage was painless apart from having to dry mount the top, bottom and opposing side to ensure the braces were straight.  Second stage was ok too, third stage required quite a bit of prep.  The rebates weren't quite deep enough so i had to use a small rebating plane which was a hell of a lot of fun, when you get the blade just right it's better than a hot knife through butter.  Very satisfying hand planing wood!  Also one of the braces was slightly off centre so i had to widen a rebate slightly.  

It's hard to express how much i'm enjoying the workshop, building these speakers has been quite a journey of learning and problem solving, highly engaging.

 

Anyway the long and short i managed to get 1 box glued up as straight as I would have hoped for.  with a rear baffle inserted to ensure they fit.  The baffle has masking tape on it so any glue wont bond to the wood.

 

I did scrape the poly off a small section of the front baffle when cutting the 2nd woofer hole.  Polyurethane seems to need more than 1 day to cure properly.  The test piece i made is rock hard now after several weeks.  For the first few days it stays a little soft and should not be touched if it can be avoided.  Anyway i'll sand it back and put a bunch more coats on, will be fine.  Plan to sand the front baffles in a week or so after i've put another few coats on.  Nearly out of polurethane varnish though.

 

F7485A12-6A99-45EE-9A75-73A874E5960C.jpeg

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CFC78CF1-5DAB-43F7-AD02-9A9EBA0B9AE8.jpeg

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DCA3C939-C8AC-47C4-B69D-4D37C84797A0.jpeg

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looks great.

 

The humidity we are experiencing at the moment in Sydney is most likely slowing down your cure time on the lacquer.

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Will collect 1 box today and see if I can’t do a cheeky glue up of no.2 for collection tomorrow.  Depends if the rebates need adjusting too.  Staff Christmas party today for lunch.  Workshop closes at 4. 

 

Troels released a new design today, http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/CNO-4.htm

 

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Still need to cut the bottom brace to accept the extra woofer support on the front baffle. 
 

I couldn’t be happier with the first box.  Can’t believe I made this!!


3221F346-5D57-4FA0-89CC-C148DF1472C8.jpeg

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Box 2 glued.  Solo glue up, bit stressful but it seems nice and straight.  

so turns out I do have 5 weeks access which means whilst yesterday was my last “class”, I still have a week to go, woohoo!

 

577360BF-C8A1-497F-905C-EACAE1D249C9.jpeg

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That must be a relief. Well done!

 

21 hours ago, Janus77 said:

It's hard to express how much i'm enjoying the workshop, building these speakers has been quite a journey of learning and problem solving, highly engaging.

 

Thanks for sharing it with us.

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1 hour ago, BioBrian said:

 

That must be a relief. Well done!

 

 

Thanks for sharing it with us.


I’ve received a lot of great advice from people on SN, I’m glad I shared or I’d probably have stuffed this build long ago!

 

getting pretty close now people.  Although I still have a pretty long list of jobs.   I’m enjoying this enough to be glad of the list ;) although I’m also very keen to plug them in and listen.

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And home we go. 
 

Need to give them a general sanding, clean up the corners, and cut out the other A brace for the woofer support.  I have a jigsaw which will hopefully do the trick.   Pity I only realised after first glue up that I needed to cut them, would have made it easier to cut them before they were installed.  
 

Will also paint PVA glue on all internal joins to ensure it’s sealed and strong.  
 

The grill frames, my instructor said maybe drill through each corner and glue dowel in to strengthen the joints.  I need to do some strength testing on them first though to determine if they need a centre support strut too.  
 

back to Bunnings for another can of polyurethane when I have time.  And some glue suitable for the port tubes.  
I might install the port tubes soon and do a few more coats of poly so I can sand back the inside and they present a flush surface.  

 

 

72D1595F-1C58-4D40-9E50-AEF833A580DD.jpeg

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Showing off some very nice joints there, Hugh.

 

So glad you did the woofer rings. Lucky there was plenty of meat left on the front braces 😀.

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3 hours ago, BioBrian said:

Showing off some very nice joints there, Hugh.

 

So glad you did the woofer rings. Lucky there was plenty of meat left on the front braces 😀.


a sliver, but it was enough..

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On 15/12/2020 at 12:56 PM, BioBrian said:Does anyone have a good method for cutting large PVC pipes square?


I ended up using thick electrical pipes and then using a rotary sander to get a perfect flush finish. 

4EA77481-8821-4B0E-A160-E60403C2B0F0.jpeg

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Aris, those orange ports look great!

 

this may be one of those situations where I’ve laid an egg too early.  Installing the port tubes before finishing the baffles would probably have been a better play. 
 

I purchased more poly yesterday, I may install the port tubes today and then do a few more coats of poly before polishing the faces.  Hopefully polyurethane finish sticks to PVC. 
 

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That looks amazing, @aris. Never come across this before. I'm going hunting for my next build.

 

Can't get good info from a quick search - is it 100 mm inside, and 7 mm wall thickness?

 

Looks ideal for a good rounding-over bit session - should give a few moments of true bliss. And the colour is perfect for the Baltic Birch.

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On 15/12/2020 at 12:56 PM, BioBrian said:

I hope you have better luck cutting the vent pipe than my recent attempt. I'm putting this here for nobody in particular, but general warning...

 

My vent pipes were 150 mm diameter, so a bit larger than in this build, but when trying to cut them with a Makita 10" cut-off saw, one piece suddenly leapt up in my face as the blade caught and twisted the pipe up - I'm lucky not to have lost a hand!

 

After that I screwed a long piece of plywood to the saw's 'fence', stopping very close to the blade, so it had much more solid (and less slippery) support. Then I could turn it more safely. An end stop kept the length the same through the rotation, but it would have been great to have 2 people on board.

 

Does anyone have a good method for cutting large PVC pipes square?

 

I've used this manual method with satisfactory results; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D8wtNYeX40

If one is intent on using power tools, it is probably safer to make a 90 degree rotation bed (with length stop), with the cutting appliance hard-mounted to the jig incorporating variable depth.

 

Nice project Janus77.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Janus77 said:

Aris, those orange ports look great!

 

this may be one of those situations where I’ve laid an egg too early.  Installing the port tubes before finishing the baffles would probably have been a better play. 
 

I purchased more poly yesterday, I may install the port tubes today and then do a few more coats of poly before polishing the faces.  Hopefully polyurethane finish sticks to PVC. 
 


you can put the tubes in a dummy front, sand them and then put the in the proper one. 

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8 hours ago, BioBrian said:

That looks amazing, @aris. Never come across this before. I'm going hunting for my next build.

 

Can't get good info from a quick search - is it 100 mm inside, and 7 mm wall thickness?

 

Looks ideal for a good rounding-over bit session - should give a few moments of true bliss. And the colour is perfect for the Baltic Birch.

It’s electrical conduit, and it’s 100mm internal and I think 5mm thick!

 

I got it from Middys, product code AUS 100HDSOL. 
 

this is a link to the type of thing it is. 
 

https://www.vinidex.com.au/products/electrical-communications-products/light-duty-pvc-orange-electrical-conduit/

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7 hours ago, Auracle said:

 

I've used this manual method with satisfactory results; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D8wtNYeX40

If one is intent on using power tools, it is probably safer to make a 90 degree rotation bed (with length stop), with the cutting appliance hard-mounted to the jig incorporating variable depth.

 

Nice project Janus77.

 

 

Love the clamp technique. Will remember that for next time :)

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1 hour ago, aris said:

It’s electrical conduit, and it’s 100mm internal and I think 5mm thick!

 

Thanks, but I think the one you used is the HD, like here:

 

https://www.pipeonline.com.au/listProduct/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT%2C+FITTINGS/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT+PVC

 

These guys say 6 mm wall thickness, but 114 minus 100 tells me it's 7. Yours looks like at least 7. The unwary would want to avoid the sandwich core one as well.

 

Just found there's a Middy's in Hobart - will check it out.

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2 hours ago, BioBrian said:

 

Thanks, but I think the one you used is the HD, like here:

 

https://www.pipeonline.com.au/listProduct/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT%2C+FITTINGS/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT+PVC

 

These guys say 6 mm wall thickness, but 114 minus 100 tells me it's 7. Yours looks like at least 7. The unwary would want to avoid the sandwich core one as well.

 

Just found there's a Middy's in Hobart - will check it out.

Nod. It’s the solid one - the sandwich is lighter but the foam in the middle would be bad/flaky I reckon. 

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Finishing is slow.. Bog fill in speaker bracing.  Sanding port holes as they’re a touch narrow.  Took the baffles back to workshop today to sand back on the belt sander, too tight a fit considering the vinyl wrap.  also sanded back the poly, will do a few more coats.  


getting there slowly. 

0CB9ADEE-265C-409E-B62B-C06958ECFC62.jpeg

13F1E00B-094E-4753-A462-EC458B740F6C.jpeg

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15 hours ago, Janus77 said:

Finishing is slow.. Bog fill in speaker bracing.  Sanding port holes as they’re a touch narrow.  Took the baffles back to workshop today to sand back on the belt sander, too tight a fit considering the vinyl wrap.  also sanded back the poly, will do a few more coats.  


getting there slowly. 

0CB9ADEE-265C-409E-B62B-C06958ECFC62.jpeg

13F1E00B-094E-4753-A462-EC458B740F6C.jpeg

Great work! 

I'm enjoying following your progress. I'm sure will be a fantastic system once completed. 

Makes me want to start another project.

Enjoy!

 

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Grill frames cut and fly wire channels routed.  Couldn’t find a 5.5mm bit so had to use a 5mm.   The fly wire is a 5.7mm foam type, hopefully it fits with the fabric..  I have one of those roller things for installing it. 
 

Happy to report there's no bowing in the wood when i apply quite a bit of pressure, so i think the frames will be ok without a centre spar.

 

I've glued 2 of the port tubes into a front baffle, the other front baffle port holes need a little more sanding to fit.  A friend suggested heating them up so they're more malleable however i'd rather get the port hole to a snug fit instead, i'd probably distort the port tubes if i tried heating them.

I figured install them now, so i can do a few more coats of poly over them to get a nice even finish, i'll put masking tape around the inside so i can peel off any runoff.

 

5DD1FE23-A11E-4305-84D4-E1C78F54B097.jpeg

 

So I have the following still to do:

Complete sanding boxes and baffles to good fitment, it's all a touch too tight at present taking into consideration the vinyl wrap.

install felt inside cabinets and on rear baffle.

5 more coats of poly on front baffles.

after i get back from 10 days away they should have cured suitably for sanding/finishing.

drill holes in mid and tweeter box for speaker wires.

dummy fit crossovers and work out what length of wire is needed for each to the binding posts and the drivers, solder wires.

Sand then poly the cabinets ready for vinyl.  2 coats should do it.

Glue up frames, dry mount and work out where to drill plug holes.  drill, slowly to avoid damaging poly.

sand driver holes and rebates where polyurethane has run, and sand back the bog to ensure good woofer fitment.

drill castor screw holes in bottom of cabinets.

Buy longer wood screws for woofer installation

install vinyl wrap

Install castors

install crossovers on rear baffle, glue baffle into cabinet (try not to get it the wrong f'ing way around)

add acoustilux foam, and also wool to mid box.

glue front baffle

mount drivers

 

We're (hopefully) away for 10 days regionally in NSW for Christmas, I'll have to finish the speakers when i return, hoping to have them up and running by the weekend of the 16th Jan.

 

Did i mention they're massive?  I'd measured and dummied up something to show the wife, they're quite a bit larger in reality than i'd imagined.

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Getting there :D

 

I reckon once finished they’ll be a good height for a TAD style (wooden biradial) horn on top ;) .. that’s the next project sorted - given the meticulous bios process thus far it should be an appropriate next challenge! 

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Hah, i was thinking super tweeter sometime down the track, and maybe a couple of largish subs. 

Started wondering if that bloke i saw a doco on in Japan who couldn't even open his fridge because of all his audio gear, was onto something..

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13 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

How long after DIY speaker building commences do most men’s wives divorce them, roughly?

Depends on how long before one cleans up the residual “stuff” used when making the speakers. 
 

I have until Xmas Eve after which I reckon I’ll find it all “under the house” or on the nature strip - or on Gumtree FTGH).

image.jpg

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1 hour ago, aris said:

Depends on how long before one cleans up the residual “stuff” used when making the speakers. 
 

I have until Xmas Eve after which I reckon I’ll find it all “under the house” or on the nature strip - or on Gumtree FTGH).

image.jpg

Pity you’re not in Sydney, I could use those quick clamps ;)

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1589F0ED-A5B3-4EA7-A6F8-FDC1D2718614.jpeg

Ok, that was the last thing I needed the workshop to complete.  Now it’s finishing at home.  :)  (In 2021, I’m away for 10 days now, then another 3 days camping afterwards)

 

 

BE47A26B-1B69-4B09-A898-2F716A2AAF70.jpeg

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