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New project - TG’s Faital 3 way classic 15”


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This literally took about a minute. 2 bits of scrap plywood, both needing one perfectly straight edge. Clamp together while adjusting for final setting, then maybe screw together to use as a guide for all Brace B routings.

 

The distance from the inner edge of the lower piece to the near side of the router bit is what you're adjusting for.

 

Inner edges of both bits of ply of course must be exactly parallel.

 

1107326741_routerguide.jpg.0b88c66d82687a0e825f244fb3294dec.jpg

 

Edited by BioBrian
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Woohoo!!   for reference, that’s a 60 inch TV.  It’s a bit difficult to get a perspective on that photo.  The entertainment unit is 2m wide.  

Howdy folks, ordered and paid yesterday for the tweeters, crossover components and various bits and pieces from Jantzen Audio, I went for the more basic kit with fabric tweeters and the lower (but sti

Well, the wood screws provided appear to be a slightly narrower head diameter than the holes on the 15" woofer.  Enough to have a listen, but a couple have just screwed straight through flush on the w



Brian, I had to give up on doing the grills.  I spoke to the instructor and he said it’ll be ok to drill though the poly.   Will get the driver holes and port holes done tomorrow, and hopefully the rebates for the bracings.  I’m going to book a day off work maybe Wednesday next week to ensure I have time to finish them before I lose workshop access after Thursday. 
 

we mocked up the boxes using the dominoes, the instructor said he couldn’t have built them any straighter.  Pretty chuffed.  

Edited by Janus77
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6 hours ago, Janus77 said:

So long sucker. 
 

 

7E675FC9-67BC-4E01-BA59-27DED66E70B4.jpeg

I actually had to pull this out of the scrap bin as I needed it for the mid and tweeter holes.  

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Um, dominoes. This will mean your gluing sequence will have to be first one side and all bracing, then all 3 other sides together, in the same operation (can't fit the ends alone last, with the dominoes at 45 degrees?). That's possibly a blessing in disguise.

 

Poor 'sucker', tossed out, then expected to run around in circles again 😢.

 

Chamfering the mid-driver hole at 45 deg is another fun job. The TG build you last linked to made it nice and obvious. I also liked his woofer hole reinforcing, with HDF, no less. Could be easier to fit this before routing the woofer hole, though your jig may not allow such a deep reach? (I had to build a bespoke jig, of zero thickness).

 

Do you have a big router bit, to do the woofer flange in one radius? Nice if you can. I use 25 mm diameter, but a bit smaller may do. Make sure you do a good test run for that one, and the tweeter. I'd expect 'sucker' to look like a colander by the time you get them right.

 

Edited by BioBrian
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Yes I’ll have to glue opposite side and top and bottom in 1 go, the dominoes should make this an easier operation. I can spend most of my time ensuring the bracing are all in the correct positions.  
 

I don’t have a router bit wide enough, planning to do 2 passes.

 

hope I can get the driver holes and rebates done tomorrow. Have a feeling I’ll be lucky to cut the holes.. seems unlikely. 

Edited by Janus77
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Managed to get all holes done, front baffles in the car on the way home to dye and poly.  
 

still need to rebate for the braces.  Taking a day off this week if the boss will give one to me..  maybe I take Thursday and just work through 10am till 9..

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38 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

Holy cow!

B7C6E008-353C-49CE-9524-75D31B054EB4.jpeg

This thing is going to Rock. I’m not sure if their is a SNA record for fastest time built, but if there was, your build would have to be up there. 

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1 hour ago, BioBrian said:

Such an interesting mid driver. I'd be tempted to mount it inside-out for a few weeks, just to enjoy.


what this old thing?

 

 

03AB5447-806D-4871-BE28-B8039A2B6185.jpeg

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Old, alright. You're taking so long, it's gathering dust 😧.

 

I want to know how they wind the inner voice coil. (My hands'd be too big).

 

Looks like it would enjoy lots of elbow room to breathe - pretty solid and complex structure back there.

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Originally was going to buy parts to build Troels TL2, but due to lack of interest to commit that much dosh for another speaker project, an thinking of the 3WC-15 design.  Already have a pair of faital 15pr400 woofers.  And the tweeters are available in aus for a good price.  Just the 18sound mid drivers that are quite pricey from overseas...  but substantially much less of an outlay compared to the TL1/2 design.    Hence very interested how you find this design when you get it up and running.  Following closely :)

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22 minutes ago, tuyen said:

Originally was going to buy parts to build Troels TL2, but due to lack of interest to commit that much dosh for another speaker project, an thinking of the 3WC-15 design.  Already have a pair of faital 15pr400 woofers.  And the tweeters are available in aus for a good price.  Just the 18sound mid drivers that are quite pricey from overseas...  but substantially much less of an outlay compared to the TL1/2 design.    Hence very interested how you find this design when you get it up and running.  Following closely :)

Not a huge difference in size between the TL2 and the 3WC-15. Is there much difference in price if starting from scratch? Troels does state the TL1 is the best sounding speaker he has made. 
Was price the main reason you picked the 3WC Janus? 

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4 minutes ago, camross said:

Not a huge difference in size between the TL2 and the 3WC-15. Is there much difference in price if starting from scratch? Troels does state the TL1 is the best sounding speaker he has made. 
Was price the main reason you picked the 3WC Janus? 


price was probably the main factor.  The TL would come in at nearly double the 3wc I think.   Also TL is a larger speaker again, and I’m already pushing it for space.  

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2 hours ago, Janus77 said:


price was probably the main factor.  The TL would come in at nearly double the 3wc I think.   Also TL is a larger speaker again, and I’m already pushing it for space.  

Fair enough.  It would be interesting to see how different they are to the DTQWT. 

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13 minutes ago, camross said:

Fair enough.  It would be interesting to see how different they are to the DTQWT. 


Be interesting to get a few of TG’s designs together, and listen to any differences and maybe compare to some commercial speakers and see if anything stands out in his preference for how they voice etc.  
 

Applying dye this evening and first coat of poly.

 

If I’m any chance of finishing cutting before I lose workshop access, I’ll need an extra day off this week.  Hopefully my boss is in a good mood.  Maybe Thursday off, then I can spend 10am till 9pm in the workshop.  Plenty of time to cut the remaining rebates and glue up.  

 

 

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The poly will make the red a lot richer.  That’s 3 applications of barn door red dye.  At 6 minutes sit before wiping off each time.  

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19DA2B85-B852-4FF2-8A11-84E40B10D0DF.jpeg

Edited by Janus77
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I was a bit too gutted initially to post this, but on consultation with Troels and my woodworking instructor I think I’ve found a good fix. 
 

In my haste to finish routing, I made a mistake.  Test router on the rear side of the front baffle just a touch down on either side of the circle to check the width for the woofer rebate. And then instead of repositioning the router on the other side of the baffle, I just started cutting the woofer rebate.  Luckily I didn’t go too deep that I was unable to rout the front of the baffle for the driver.  There was about 5mm in between once done.  Everyone telling me not to rush, and I just ploughed ahead as fast as possible and stuffed up.  It could have been worse if I’d gone deeper. 
 

glued some fillets in to screw the driver screws into, and will bog the rest of the channel with builders bog, which sets rock hard and sticks.  Thinking about a couple more small fillets glued outside the fillets in the photo to give them a bit of extra support. Unfortunately the BB side had biscuit repairs on the face. 
 

I’ve also found after dying there were some sanding marks from where I sanded perpendicular to the grain, I thought I’d sanded them out.  
 

anyway first time I’ve built something, I expected to make a few mistakes.  The sanding marks are only visible on close inspection,  no going back now!  
 

Hopefully the filets and bog do the job.. On the plus side there is now more depth of wood for the driver screws to go into.  
 

Come on people, let me have it... 

 


 

 

 

Edited by Janus77
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Ok, have decided to cut 2 circles, with the diameter about 6cm larger than the woofer rebate, and then router the inside to the same diameter of the inside edge of the rebate, then glue these to the rear side of each front baffle, which will increase support for the woofer.  I'll do it on both so the result is the same.  In the photo above I'll level the fillets with the baffle, and then fill in between them with this builders bog i sourced from Swaddlings. 

Will do a 45 degree chamfer on the inside corner of these circles too, to allow the air to move properly.

 

Feeling good about this as a solution, the woofers will be well supported.  It's probably more my own peace of mind than anything at this stage.

 

Just need to check dimensions so they don't interfere with bracings, should be fine.

 

That's a load off my mind, have been stewing even after getting Troel's ok on just the fillets.

Edited by Janus77
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My wife told me not to rush, and book more workshop time instead.  (i can get 5 days for $250 that i can use over 3 months, or a full month of access for $280).

I've pushed hard, too hard.  I can't see this being completed by the end of Thursday's session. 

I'm pretty happy with the plan for the woofer supports, they'll be stronger than the original.

I should have sanded the front of the baffles better, there are some scrapes and marks - which i'll chalk up as character.  They're not visible unless inspecting closely, so i'm nit picking at this point.  Annoying as I'd have finished these better if more relaxed on the time frame.  Anyway baffles looking good, the red really pops.  Given i'll most likely book more workshop access, will revise my plan slightly and chill the F out about the timeline ;)  

 

Now I'm thinking:

Thursday - Cut all side panel bracing rebates, 45 degree chamfer on internal mid drivers and new woofer support.  Glue up as much of the boxes as possible.  If i have time that will be everything glued except for front and rear baffles.  cut woofer support rings (push this if i run out of time)

Additional day 1: Construct grill frames, (45 deg chamfer inside edge, 15 deg chamfer outside edge, 45 degree mitre corners, and horizontal support if needed).  Glue in woofer supports.  Install castors.  Drill grill frames with front baffle dry fit and clamped.

Additional day 2: router fly wire line channel in grill frames, polish front baffles, glue plugs into front baffles and grill frames.  Take all speaker parts home.

Home to do: couple of coats of poly on outside of cabs. vinyl, run driver wires, glue in felt, install crossovers and wire to binding posts.  glue in front and rear baffles.  install mesh on grill frames.  enjoy.

 

Additional day 3: Wife wants a screen stand for our desk that we can slide the keyboard and xbox controller under, thinking 24mm ply with 45 degree mitre corners, vinyled to match the desk.

Additional day 4: Son needs a music book stand for when he's drumming, might knock something up.

Additional day 5: Finishing up the book stand or screen stand. (let's face it, probably still running behind schedule on the speakers..)

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My lovely wife has given me another leave pass this evening.  I'll drop the kids home from school and daycare, and head to the workshop for a few hours.

I think i'll focus on the side panel rebates, and if i manage to complete them, i'll try and cut these 18mm thick rings to support the woofers.

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I’m back people, broken out of the funk with a solid session of woodworking. 
 

i cut the rebates using a bit of wood as a guide as suggested by Brian.  Once you know the offset needed for the router guide it’s pretty fast and easy to get a good channel.  The router bit must have been 16.5mm or something, didn’t need much extra to fit the 18mm braces.  

Edited by Janus77
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Looks like I can take all day Thursday off, that’s 10am to 9pm I can spend in the workshop.  
started wondering if I might not get those grill frames built..


Jobs for Thursday:

1. cut woofer support circles. 
2. chamfer mid driver (and maybe woofer?) holes
3. polish front baffles

4, cut down and sand fillets level

5. glue woofer support circles

6. router disk out of woofer hole

7. construct tweeter boxes

8. glue up cabinets (sans front and rear baffles)

9. install castors

10. cut port tubes in half 

11. drill rear baffles for binding posts 

12. drill mid and tweeter box’ for speaker wire

13? construct grill frames

 

Is this possible in 10hrs of workshop time?  Probably not..  I'll only do the grill frames IF running well ahead of schedule.

 

 

Edited by Janus77
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Only the mid need chamfer not the woofer. I also did a slight chamfer of the BR ports as mine were a snug fit so chamfering helped get them in and also to hold a bead of hot glue. Overkill I think. For me it was the gluing that soaked up time reckon Thu will be a busy day for you!

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8 hours ago, aris said:

Only the mid need chamfer not the woofer. I also did a slight chamfer of the BR ports as mine were a snug fit so chamfering helped get them in and also to hold a bead of hot glue. Overkill I think. For me it was the gluing that soaked up time reckon Thu will be a busy day for you!

 

Thanks Aris, i was only talking about chamfering the woofer hole as i'm installing an additional support ring behind the woofer (bit like these http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Faital-3WC-15_Hans-Kristian.htm), so wanted to ensure the air can flow freely.  Chamfering the BR ports is good advice thanks, i noticed they are very snug on mine too.

 

I need to level the fillets down with the baffle so the support ring can sit over them, wonder which tool will be best for that, use a facing machine, or will that just chew it up?  Maybe a flexible hand saw is best, then sand it till flat.

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I hope you have better luck cutting the vent pipe than my recent attempt. I'm putting this here for nobody in particular, but general warning...

 

My vent pipes were 150 mm diameter, so a bit larger than in this build, but when trying to cut them with a Makita 10" cut-off saw, one piece suddenly leapt up in my face as the blade caught and twisted the pipe up - I'm lucky not to have lost a hand!

 

After that I screwed a long piece of plywood to the saw's 'fence', stopping very close to the blade, so it had much more solid (and less slippery) support. Then I could turn it more safely. An end stop kept the length the same through the rotation, but it would have been great to have 2 people on board.

 

Does anyone have a good method for cutting large PVC pipes square?

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