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New project - TG’s Faital 3 way classic 15”


Janus77

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Ok folks, time to get my head back in the game.  Returned from camping on the South Coast this afternoon.  Popped my head in to look at the carnage that is my workshop/aunt's living room, no idea what to do next..

 

Thinking it through:

1. Sanding cabinets back so corners are nice etc.

2. polyurethane cabinets ready for vinyl

3. check baffle fitment with vinyl cutouts installed for a dry run, adjust (sand sides of baffles) if required.

4. Spray rear baffles black, coat of poly over the top probably.

5. install felt (scratch that, do it later per Aris advice to avoid the drill messing up the felt when drilling wire holes)

6. measure wire lengths for each driver to crossovers

7. work out how to mount the grill frames, do i use the clips, or crank it up a notch and get magnets? (Brian the frames are very strong, should be fine without any mid horizontal support spar).  drill for clips/magnets.

8. finish the front baffles, polish polyurethane, and clean up driver rebates which are full of poly.

9. drill bottom of cabinets for castors

10. vinyl cabinets, then install castors.

11. mount crossovers and binding posts to rear baffles, glue on felt.

12. drill mid and tweeter boxes to run wires from drivers to crossovers (Should i use a flexible glue or something to fill the holes once the wires are in so they're sealed, any advice?)

14. install felt, glue in rear baffles.

13. install acoustilux foam and wool

14. glue in front baffles.

15. drill and screw in drivers.

 

First draft, will give it some thought.  Happy for any thoughts/advice :)

 

Not long now folks, pretty pumped

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

 

5. install felt (scratch that, do it later per Aris advice to avoid the drill messing up the felt when drilling wire holes)

 

same for any holes that may hit the felt eg castors & terminals 

 

21 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

6. measure wire lengths for each driver to crossovers

 

leave a bit more length than minimum especially at the driver but also at the terminals. think ahead eg if a xover component fails and you need to take out and resolder etc. 
 

21 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

12. drill mid and tweeter boxes to run wires from drivers to crossovers (Should i use a flexible glue or something to fill the holes once the wires are in so they're sealed, any advice?)

 

a quick set flexible filler. avoid hot glue gun as the seal can break open with a little wire movement. 


also don’t forget to twist wire pairs. Mine I forgot so had to go back and twist somewhat after. 
 

Aris

 

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Realised the glue provided for the crossovers will work well for filling the holes drilled for the wires. 
 

not much done tonight, need to get a clear game plan in my head.  I braided the wires and had a look at the front baffles, looking good, I need to fill 1 section on the baffle where the ports are, I nicked it slightly when cutting the circles out.  Wondering if I keep pouring poly in there or maybe areldite is better with a bit of red die to help it blend in then poly over the top.  
 

need to get down there during daylight hours and set up on the balcony to sand the cabinets properly and get them ready.  Do some test fitting of the front and rear baffles and ensure it’s all going together nicely.  Hopefully I can work out my plan of attack soon, feeling a bit too relaxed after several weeks of holidays.

 

think I’ll line the seams of the mid driver box with a flexible filler just to make sure they’re air tight.  

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3hrs at the “workshop” tonight.  

Sprayed 1 rear baffle black.  Will give it another coat tomorrow and then a very light sand before a few coats of poly. 

 

Sanded 1 front baffle so it’s smooth and even.  looks ugly but it’s much smoother to touch than the other.  Next is a 1200 grit and then 2000 both wet to bring up a gloss.  

 

Put a flexible silicon filler on the mid box seams to ensure they’re air tight.  
 

lot of work for a couple of boxes!

63126239-48AD-49B1-8458-95D506782AFA.jpeg

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642A9152-EBBB-41B9-B8AA-855E588454F3.jpeg

 

Next up is drilling mid and tweeter boxes for speaker wire, dry fit crossovers to measure wire lengths, drill for castor installation, and then glue in felt.  

 

I think I’ll install the tweeter box after gluing in the front baffle to ensure it’s butted up tightly. 
 

need broad headed screws for the castors, and have decided to buy 4 600mm quick grips from Bunnings for gluing in the baffles.

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Polishing the poly with a 1200 grit wet on an orbital sander.  I’d gone through the first layer in some spots when I hand sanded at 400 grit.  Is this ok, do I keep going finer and finer until it’s all polished or do I need to apply another coat once it’s all smooth and just polish that coat so I don’t get through under to the next coat?

 

the photo clearly showing the coats is in a reflective position, it’s only reflecting light there’s no whitish tinge

 

 

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0DB8EE59-5EA4-4A3C-B2ED-3E230C30EB2B.jpeg

Edited by Janus77
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You shouldn't be undoing all your good work by taking off too much lacquer.  I would try a very fine sand at best and then a final coat, you need to stop at some point.

 

With the final coat sometimes less is more.  Don't try and put too much of a coating on the finish.

Edited by PKay
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1 minute ago, PKay said:

You shouldn't be undoing all your good work by taking off too much lacquer.  I would try a very fine sand at best and then a final coat, you need to stop at some point.

 

Thanks PK, i should have sanded in between coats of poly i guess.  I'll do a fine sand and then a final coat once it's all smooth, then polish that final coat with a fine grit.  My woodworking teacher recommended applying the poly with a cloth not a brush, might do that for the final coat.

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1 minute ago, Janus77 said:

Hmm, guess i just keep polishing and if i need to apply another coat, so be it.

 

You could but we want to see the final product and you took off way too much time for the rest of us ?

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1 minute ago, Janus77 said:

 

Thanks PK, i should have sanded in between coats of poly i guess.  I'll do a fine sand and then a final coat once it's all smooth, then polish that final coat with a fine grit.  My woodworking teacher recommended applying the poly with a cloth not a brush, might do that for the final coat.

Ah that makes sense.  I thought you would have been doing a very light sanding with the steel wool between coats.

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2 minutes ago, PKay said:

Ah that makes sense.  I thought you would have been doing a very light sanding with the steel wool between coats.

 

Someone (it might have been you) gave me advice to sand with steel wool in between.  Which i did a few times.  I think the larger issue was the uneven application caused by the brush i was using.  Probably could have ended up with a more even finish with less work if i'd used a cloth or something like that.

 

Anyway, nothing lost at this point, will rub a final coat on once i have them nice and smooth, then give it another 2000-3000 grit wet sand to take any little edges off.

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As you said, could be that applying too thick because of application method means more needs to be sanded off to get an even finish than I experienced. 
 

Otherwise, I’d just suggest a lighter touch when sanding maybe? Don’t know if that helps, but I think I was going too far in my middle coat and backed off on the amount of sanding/force required. 
 

I’m with Pkay,  super keen to see the finished product and hear your impressions :cool:

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Thanks Ash. 

 

I've decided to do a wipe on poly after i finish sanding.  I mix 50/50 mineral turps with the brush on poly, should result in a smooth finish and then i can polish with a 2000 grit to get a proper shine. 

Wait and see.

 

Hoping to have 1 speaker completed this weekend, and the 2nd by the following weekend.  Progress going to be a bit slower now compared to pre Christmas.  Doing my best! :)

Edited by Janus77
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Dust is the enemy. If you want to see your eyeballs in it you take the timber to 2000 grit. Then take the dust off each coat with fine steel wool and wash with damp cloth. Never paint where you sand.  Use a spare room with heaters on to paint in. At the end of the day you will likely end up with some dust in the final coat. You will see it but others will see a thing of great beauty.

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First injury of the build last night, good result really although you'd think i'd have learnt to use scissors safely by now.

Just glad it wasn't the table saw!

 

Progress (dry fit only)

 

4CE0F1F1-B54C-4AB5-86D4-2DEF4140D8F2.jpeg

Edited by Janus77
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11 hours ago, Janus77 said:

had enlisted help which is now asleep on the couch

 

Yeah, know that one.

 

The thump of my hay baler echoing around the hills is a sign for the whole district to evacuate to the beach.

 

1 hour ago, Janus77 said:

First injury of the build last night, good result really

 

 

There's a bit of blood in my builds, too. It's actually good value; the sweat and tears just become distant memories after time.

 

Hope it's not going to slow you down too much (and you're OK).

 

What glue did you decide on for the felt?

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Yeah, it's a small cut.  I'm a bleeder though :)

 

I've purchased some Dunlop vinyl adhesive as recommended by Aris to glue the felt.

 

Next to do:

wipe on poly on face and rear baffles

drill cabinets for castors

glue in felt.

 

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