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New project - TG’s Faital 3 way classic 15”


Janus77

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On 15/12/2020 at 12:56 PM, BioBrian said:Does anyone have a good method for cutting large PVC pipes square?


I ended up using thick electrical pipes and then using a rotary sander to get a perfect flush finish. 

4EA77481-8821-4B0E-A160-E60403C2B0F0.jpeg

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Aris, those orange ports look great!

 

this may be one of those situations where I’ve laid an egg too early.  Installing the port tubes before finishing the baffles would probably have been a better play. 
 

I purchased more poly yesterday, I may install the port tubes today and then do a few more coats of poly before polishing the faces.  Hopefully polyurethane finish sticks to PVC. 
 

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That looks amazing, @aris. Never come across this before. I'm going hunting for my next build.

 

Can't get good info from a quick search - is it 100 mm inside, and 7 mm wall thickness?

 

Looks ideal for a good rounding-over bit session - should give a few moments of true bliss. And the colour is perfect for the Baltic Birch.

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On 15/12/2020 at 12:56 PM, BioBrian said:

I hope you have better luck cutting the vent pipe than my recent attempt. I'm putting this here for nobody in particular, but general warning...

 

My vent pipes were 150 mm diameter, so a bit larger than in this build, but when trying to cut them with a Makita 10" cut-off saw, one piece suddenly leapt up in my face as the blade caught and twisted the pipe up - I'm lucky not to have lost a hand!

 

After that I screwed a long piece of plywood to the saw's 'fence', stopping very close to the blade, so it had much more solid (and less slippery) support. Then I could turn it more safely. An end stop kept the length the same through the rotation, but it would have been great to have 2 people on board.

 

Does anyone have a good method for cutting large PVC pipes square?

 

I've used this manual method with satisfactory results; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D8wtNYeX40

If one is intent on using power tools, it is probably safer to make a 90 degree rotation bed (with length stop), with the cutting appliance hard-mounted to the jig incorporating variable depth.

 

Nice project Janus77.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Janus77 said:

Aris, those orange ports look great!

 

this may be one of those situations where I’ve laid an egg too early.  Installing the port tubes before finishing the baffles would probably have been a better play. 
 

I purchased more poly yesterday, I may install the port tubes today and then do a few more coats of poly before polishing the faces.  Hopefully polyurethane finish sticks to PVC. 
 


you can put the tubes in a dummy front, sand them and then put the in the proper one. 

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8 hours ago, BioBrian said:

That looks amazing, @aris. Never come across this before. I'm going hunting for my next build.

 

Can't get good info from a quick search - is it 100 mm inside, and 7 mm wall thickness?

 

Looks ideal for a good rounding-over bit session - should give a few moments of true bliss. And the colour is perfect for the Baltic Birch.

It’s electrical conduit, and it’s 100mm internal and I think 5mm thick!

 

I got it from Middys, product code AUS 100HDSOL. 
 

this is a link to the type of thing it is. 
 

https://www.vinidex.com.au/products/electrical-communications-products/light-duty-pvc-orange-electrical-conduit/

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7 hours ago, Auracle said:

 

I've used this manual method with satisfactory results; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D8wtNYeX40

If one is intent on using power tools, it is probably safer to make a 90 degree rotation bed (with length stop), with the cutting appliance hard-mounted to the jig incorporating variable depth.

 

Nice project Janus77.

 

 

Love the clamp technique. Will remember that for next time :)

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1 hour ago, aris said:

It’s electrical conduit, and it’s 100mm internal and I think 5mm thick!

 

Thanks, but I think the one you used is the HD, like here:

 

https://www.pipeonline.com.au/listProduct/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT%2C+FITTINGS/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT+PVC

 

These guys say 6 mm wall thickness, but 114 minus 100 tells me it's 7. Yours looks like at least 7. The unwary would want to avoid the sandwich core one as well.

 

Just found there's a Middy's in Hobart - will check it out.

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2 hours ago, BioBrian said:

 

Thanks, but I think the one you used is the HD, like here:

 

https://www.pipeonline.com.au/listProduct/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT%2C+FITTINGS/ELECTRICAL+CONDUIT+PVC

 

These guys say 6 mm wall thickness, but 114 minus 100 tells me it's 7. Yours looks like at least 7. The unwary would want to avoid the sandwich core one as well.

 

Just found there's a Middy's in Hobart - will check it out.

Nod. It’s the solid one - the sandwich is lighter but the foam in the middle would be bad/flaky I reckon. 

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Finishing is slow.. Bog fill in speaker bracing.  Sanding port holes as they’re a touch narrow.  Took the baffles back to workshop today to sand back on the belt sander, too tight a fit considering the vinyl wrap.  also sanded back the poly, will do a few more coats.  


getting there slowly. 

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13F1E00B-094E-4753-A462-EC458B740F6C.jpeg

Edited by Janus77
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15 hours ago, Janus77 said:

Finishing is slow.. Bog fill in speaker bracing.  Sanding port holes as they’re a touch narrow.  Took the baffles back to workshop today to sand back on the belt sander, too tight a fit considering the vinyl wrap.  also sanded back the poly, will do a few more coats.  


getting there slowly. 

0CB9ADEE-265C-409E-B62B-C06958ECFC62.jpeg

13F1E00B-094E-4753-A462-EC458B740F6C.jpeg

Great work! 

I'm enjoying following your progress. I'm sure will be a fantastic system once completed. 

Makes me want to start another project.

Enjoy!

 

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Grill frames cut and fly wire channels routed.  Couldn’t find a 5.5mm bit so had to use a 5mm.   The fly wire is a 5.7mm foam type, hopefully it fits with the fabric..  I have one of those roller things for installing it. 
 

Happy to report there's no bowing in the wood when i apply quite a bit of pressure, so i think the frames will be ok without a centre spar.

 

I've glued 2 of the port tubes into a front baffle, the other front baffle port holes need a little more sanding to fit.  A friend suggested heating them up so they're more malleable however i'd rather get the port hole to a snug fit instead, i'd probably distort the port tubes if i tried heating them.

I figured install them now, so i can do a few more coats of poly over them to get a nice even finish, i'll put masking tape around the inside so i can peel off any runoff.

 

5DD1FE23-A11E-4305-84D4-E1C78F54B097.jpeg

 

So I have the following still to do:

Complete sanding boxes and baffles to good fitment, it's all a touch too tight at present taking into consideration the vinyl wrap.

install felt inside cabinets and on rear baffle.

5 more coats of poly on front baffles.

after i get back from 10 days away they should have cured suitably for sanding/finishing.

drill holes in mid and tweeter box for speaker wires.

dummy fit crossovers and work out what length of wire is needed for each to the binding posts and the drivers, solder wires.

Sand then poly the cabinets ready for vinyl.  2 coats should do it.

Glue up frames, dry mount and work out where to drill plug holes.  drill, slowly to avoid damaging poly.

sand driver holes and rebates where polyurethane has run, and sand back the bog to ensure good woofer fitment.

drill castor screw holes in bottom of cabinets.

Buy longer wood screws for woofer installation

install vinyl wrap

Install castors

install crossovers on rear baffle, glue baffle into cabinet (try not to get it the wrong f'ing way around)

add acoustilux foam, and also wool to mid box.

glue front baffle

mount drivers

 

We're (hopefully) away for 10 days regionally in NSW for Christmas, I'll have to finish the speakers when i return, hoping to have them up and running by the weekend of the 16th Jan.

 

Did i mention they're massive?  I'd measured and dummied up something to show the wife, they're quite a bit larger in reality than i'd imagined.

Edited by Janus77
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Hah, i was thinking super tweeter sometime down the track, and maybe a couple of largish subs. 

Started wondering if that bloke i saw a doco on in Japan who couldn't even open his fridge because of all his audio gear, was onto something..

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13 minutes ago, Janus77 said:

How long after DIY speaker building commences do most men’s wives divorce them, roughly?

Depends on how long before one cleans up the residual “stuff” used when making the speakers. 
 

I have until Xmas Eve after which I reckon I’ll find it all “under the house” or on the nature strip - or on Gumtree FTGH).

image.jpg

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1 hour ago, aris said:

Depends on how long before one cleans up the residual “stuff” used when making the speakers. 
 

I have until Xmas Eve after which I reckon I’ll find it all “under the house” or on the nature strip - or on Gumtree FTGH).

image.jpg

Pity you’re not in Sydney, I could use those quick clamps ;)

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1589F0ED-A5B3-4EA7-A6F8-FDC1D2718614.jpeg

Ok, that was the last thing I needed the workshop to complete.  Now it’s finishing at home.  :)  (In 2021, I’m away for 10 days now, then another 3 days camping afterwards)

 

 

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8 hours ago, Janus77 said:

1589F0ED-A5B3-4EA7-A6F8-FDC1D2718614.jpeg

Ok, that was the last thing I needed the workshop to complete.  Now it’s finishing at home.  :)  (In 2021, I’m away for 10 days now, then another 3 days camping afterwards)

 

 

BE47A26B-1B69-4B09-A898-2F716A2AAF70.jpeg

I’m so excited! Can’t wait for you to hear them and see/hear what you think!!!

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I couldn’t help myself.  Sprayed the grill frames black (just to ensure the light wood colour wouldn’t show through the fabric, and another thick layer of poly on the front baffles.  Hopefully in 10 days when I return the poly will have cured properly.  The test piece I did is very hard now, it seems to take some time to cure properly even though it’s dry to the touch within hours.  

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