McChanson Valve Amp Owners Thread

[BLAH BLAH]

On 09/04/2021 at 11:19 PM, dwbasement said:

I changed the look of mine a bit...timber side panel, solid aluminium knob and isoacoustics feets...

 

Hi @dwbasement that's a beauty I bet it sounds just as good as it looks...if not even better!

My 300B SET 12W has no side bespoke wooden panels, never even entertained that possibility at all, talk about thinking outside the square!...not sure if mine warrants such a customized effort/co$t like yours though it does look smick and inviting and has an appearance that is so easy on the eyes!

Mmmm Birds Eye Maple wooden polished sides...I wonder!  

Like yours I have no logo/writing on that front aluminium silver panel except for black 'power' font/script under the push power button...nice and clean and uncluttered and also very easy on those old eyes of mine...also once those RCA outlets/inlets are chosen and set!... nothing else to worry/read about but the volume and power dials!    Now i'm intrigued by your addition of the pod/feet under the Amp...are they interchangeable with Eric's...both screw in/out?!?  Co$t and where to obtain?!?

And do those pods make a difference to the musical sound at all?!? And then the further double whammy of adding a wooden base placed over sprung legs under the whole lot...shirley their is a discernible improvement in the overall sound as well again...was it worth going to all that trouble...or simply to please the symmetry/eyes with matching your system's TT's?!?!

I also asked Eric to include the Interstage T in my 300B and upgrades in Valve sockets and RCA outlets and a super expensive german sounding brand of cap(forgotten!) to maximize the use of a 274B Rectifier...it is also very quiet in operation...very happy McChanson Amp owner!  I do like the black appearance of the top plate and Trannies but jeez they highlight the light flutter of white accumulating dust!   so I have a super fine paint brush handy nearby to do the flick off dust...and also large white cotton gloves to interchange my 300B valves...very paranoid when squeezing the valves to move them in/out of their sockets...always think I am going to burst them like eggs...gently, gently back and forth does it, then a final lift!

 

Edited April 15, 2021 by BLAH BLAH

[muon*]

Hold the base of the valve when inserting or removing, not the envelope

[BLAH BLAH]

Just now, muon* said:

Hold the base of the valve when inserting or removing, not the envelope

With my fat soft old fingers I find that the shiny smooth plastic of the valve base becomes slippery to grip and give the old upward heave ho to...it really is a tight valve grip in their sockets...I have done the old gentle back and forth...at their base to help with the lifting and have managed to break off the black stem with one of my 6L6GC black plates...  

Not sure why the shiny smooth plastic on the bottom of valves are not manufactured with a roughness or ripple to maximise for both finger grip and lift...make it all so much easier!

[muon*]

I agree, it would be easier if the base was textured.

[Odyssey]

Here’s Eric very interesting and humorous reply. I’m starting to enjoy my conversations with him.

 

Can’t wait to see and hear the finished amp!

 

I shall provide with two solid silver ( Not sterling silver !! )  knobs - but you can change yours later if you prefer.. Standard chassis feets provided. 

 

All transformers are black, including power transformer, two timE outputs, two filter chokes and two Interstage transformers. totally 7 pieces, vs 5 tubes, It is a more iron than glass amp !!!

 

[dwbasement]

5 hours ago, BLAH BLAH said:

 

Hi @dwbasement that's a beauty I bet it sounds just as good as it looks...if not even better!

My 300B SET 12W has no side bespoke wooden panels, never even entertained that possibility at all, talk about thinking outside the square!...not sure if mine warrants such a customized effort/co$t like yours though it does look smick and inviting and has an appearance that is so easy on the eyes!

Mmmm Birds Eye Maple wooden polished sides...I wonder!  

Like yours I have no logo/writing on that front aluminium silver panel except for black 'power' font/script under the push power button...nice and clean and uncluttered and also very easy on those old eyes of mine...also once those RCA outlets/inlets are chosen and set!... nothing else to worry/read about but the volume and power dials!    Now i'm intrigued by your addition of the pod/feet under the Amp...are they interchangeable with Eric's...both screw in/out?!?  Co$t and where to obtain?!?

And do those pods make a difference to the musical sound at all?!? And then the further double whammy of adding a wooden base placed over sprung legs under the whole lot...shirley their is a discernible improvement in the overall sound as well again...was it worth going to all that trouble...or simply to please the symmetry/eyes with matching your system's TT's?!?!

I also asked Eric to include the Interstage T in my 300B and upgrades in Valve sockets and RCA outlets and a super expensive german sounding brand of cap(forgotten!) to maximize the use of a 274B Rectifier...it is also very quiet in operation...very happy McChanson Amp owner!  I do like the black appearance of the top plate and Trannies but jeez they highlight the light flutter of white accumulating dust!   so I have a super fine paint brush handy nearby to do the flick off dust...and also large white cotton gloves to interchange my 300B valves...very paranoid when squeezing the valves to move them in/out of their sockets...always think I am going to burst them like eggs...gently, gently back and forth does it, then a final lift!

 

Hi John, I love the sound of my amp, the side panels are just some dressed pine from bunnings, I stained to match my phono's side panel as they were sitting side by side before I added the 2nd tt. 

The ikea chopping board also stained the same colour and yes part of the reason is to match the tt setup also I think the board and the feets together do provide a bit more weight to the sound, they obviously look good to my eyes so I am happy with it.

I used to have the vibrapods and cones before for the feet but later changed to these isoacoustic pucks. They are just sit under the amp no need to fix them. They are not the new series pucks which are more expensive, these are just the standard pucks 80 bucks for 2, sometimes they sre on special fmwith 15% off.

Overall I think they all add up and improve the overall sound a bit.

Edited April 15, 2021 by dwbasement

[BLAH BLAH]

8 minutes ago, dwbasement said:

Hi John, I live the sound of my amp, the side panels are just some dressed pine from bunnings, I stained to match my phono's side panel as they were sitting side by side before I added the 2nd tt. 

The ikea chopping board also stained the same colour and yes part of the reason is to match the tt setup also I think the board and the feets together do provide a bit more weight to the sound, they obviously look good to my eyes so I am happy with it.

I used to have the vibrapods and cones before for the feet but later changed to these isoacoustic pucks. They are just sit under the amp no need to fix them. They are not the new series pucks which are more expensive, these are just the standard pucks 80 bucks for 2, sometimes they sre on special fmwith 15% off.

Overall I think they all add up and improve the overall sound a bit.

Hi Dennis thank you for the in-depth reply....if those isoacoustic pucks improve your sound that is good enough for me...will hunt down a set for my SET!!!  

[dwbasement]

1 hour ago, BLAH BLAH said:

Hi Dennis thank you for the in-depth reply....if those isoacoustic pucks improve your sound that is good enough for me...will hunt down a set for my SET!!!  

https://www.soundseasy.com.au/products/isoacoustics-iso-puck-pack-of-2?variant=32473812664419&currency=AUD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2018-09-22&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1o-CkbT_7wIVSNiWCh2hhQ9cEAQYAiABEgIzMPD_BwE

[BLAH BLAH]

20 minutes ago, dwbasement said:

https://www.soundseasy.com.au/products/isoacoustics-iso-puck-pack-of-2?variant=32473812664419&currency=AUD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2018-09-22&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1o-CkbT_7wIVSNiWCh2hhQ9cEAQYAiABEgIzMPD_BwE

[xlr8or]

I'd like to share the best way of removing octal tubes from tube sockets without breaking the guide key underneath. Study the position of the key ridge before inserting the tube into its socket and mark its position on the tube base. When inserted and removal is required wiggle it left and right only relative to the position of the key ridge, which should also align horizontally across the mounting holes for the tube socket. Do not rotate it around like removing 9-pin minis as the guide key will break off.

 

For UX4 sockets there is no guide key available. Therefore, before insertion study the tube socket carefully and take a photo of the 4 holes. You will note that a square shape can be formed when you align horizontally across in the direction of the mounting holes for the tube socket. Again, when inserted, wiggle the tube left and right only relative to this direction to remove it.

Edited April 15, 2021 by xlr8or

[xlr8or]

Regarding the handling of tubes @muon* is absolutely correct that they should always be grasped at the base when inserted/removed. If the tube base is oily clean it with metho and cotton buds, and avoid touching any printed labelling and etched codes so they aren't removed. Use a moist paper towel to periodically clean the tube base. Any residue can be lifted easily this way.

 

For the glass envelope use metho for any stains and moist paper towel for the other areas to clean 'fogged up' areas, which again are free from printed labels and etched codes. You don't want any water touching the fragile labelling or etched codes as they can come off easily. A glass envelope that is clean and free of residue will sound much better sonically.

 

Before you all ask me I clean my incandescent light bulbs in the same manner to achieve maximum brightness even for the frosted types.

Edited April 15, 2021 by xlr8or

[muon*]

Yes, doing it by grasping the glass envelope will in the longer (hopefully not shorter) run help the glass envelope part ways with the base

[xtiva2000]

5 hours ago, dwbasement said:

The ikea chopping board

 

Yeah this thing is so versatile   I also made my shelf out of those chopping board..

 

need to go out and get the new chopping board to put under my KT77 (currently has Brimar 6L6GA tube)  

 

[Odyssey]

It's set in concrete. Eric will start building my 300b starting new week. Here's the specs...

 

The Amp :  

 

It is a 300B timE amp as described on eBay, but with the following addition / modifications :

 

The amp will use a high profile and slightly bigger black chassis with silver front panel without print. Silver knobs will be provided to make it look good. The amp is a timEt amp meaning it is served by a pair of Interstage Transformer (instead of coupling cap ), All black transformers (total 7 pieces) are installed on the top plate. A pair of standard Psvane 300B is provided. Usual 6EM7 driver tubes and a 5Z4P rectifier for you as spare. The amp is also with hardware upgrades to CMC style speaker posts, 4 x RCA inputs and tube sockets. Speaker outs are 4 and 8 ohms.

 

As the amp is also a headphone amp, one standard headphone jack and one XLR 4 - pin socket are installed ( both provided by user ) - both connected to 4 ohm out. and a speaker silent switch is installed. Two filter chokes are used to achieve low humming to a possible minimum. 

 

It is a more iron than glass amp. 

[dwbasement]

5z4p rectifier, i never used that. 

 

[Odyssey]

I wouldn't use it. Instead I'll use Sittard 5AR4/GZ34, Mullard GZ34 f33 (from you Dennis), Mullard GZ32, Cossor 53KU.

 

Furthermore, Eric said that 274B, 5V4 can be used.

 

This is what he said..

As the amp is 300B DHT ( direct heated triode), so direct heated rectifier is OK !! and the new power transformer provides 3A for the rectifier filament current,  so almost all 5V rectifiers with standard pin layout are compatible. Of course, you may ask me first & that is good.

 

[dwbasement]

7 minutes ago, Odyssey said:

I wouldn't use it. Instead I'll use Sittard 5AR4/GZ34, Mullard GZ34 f33 (from you Dennis), Mullard GZ32, Cossor 53KU.

 

Furthermore, Eric said that 274B, 5V4 can be used.

 

This is what he said..

As the amp is 300B DHT ( direct heated triode), so direct heated rectifier is OK !! and the new power transformer provides 3A for the rectifier filament current,  so almost all 5V rectifiers with standard pin layout are compatible. Of course, you may ask me first & that is good.

 

Well eric can keep the 5z4p and give you back credit so you dont waste the tube.

I have some gz32 too if you want to try and some 6em7 as well haha

 

Oh just remember you also got a mullard 32 from me last time. You are all sorted Matt!

[Odyssey]

Just now, dwbasement said:

Well eric can keep the 5z4p and give you back credit so you dont waste the tube.

I have some gz32 too if you want to try and some 6em7 as well haha

 

Eric said the 5z4p is free and I wouldn't ask for credit on that. 

 

I bought a pair of Mullard GZ32 from you lol and they are still with me. On Wa22, it's a lovely tone. I will get a pair of 6EM7 from you later.... I would also be getting a pair of nice 300b tubes in about 6 months time. The stock Psvane 300b that I tested with Eric's demo 300b amp sounded very good. Not sure how much improvement WE300b or Takatsuki 300b would be ... diminishing returns for sure at those prices.

[dwbasement]

I think the stock 300n is ok but you should get better sound from some NOS ..  i am not a fan of the new 300b production.

May be @xlr8or can share some light here - the tube guru of all gurus

[Odyssey]

Well I'm all ears to hear what @xlr8or says. However I've to  buy NOS tubes for GEC KT77, KT88 and Tung Sol 6550. All heavy investment. NOS 300b unfortunately have to be deferred several months. 

 

[xlr8or]

Before recommending any 300B tube please share the B+ and recommended plate current for Eric's design. I'm assuming the bias is fixed.

[xlr8or]

35 minutes ago, Odyssey said:

I wouldn't use it. Instead I'll use Sittard 5AR4/GZ34, Mullard GZ34 f33 (from you Dennis), Mullard GZ32, Cossor 53KU.

 

Furthermore, Eric said that 274B, 5V4 can be used.

 

This is what he said..

As the amp is 300B DHT ( direct heated triode), so direct heated rectifier is OK !! and the new power transformer provides 3A for the rectifier filament current,  so almost all 5V rectifiers with standard pin layout are compatible. Of course, you may ask me first & that is good.

 

 

Just make sure the power filtration cap values that Eric fits to the amp do not exceed the maximum permissible filtration value for these rectifier types.

[Odyssey]

6 minutes ago, xlr8or said:

Before recommending any 300B tube please share the B+ and recommended plate current for Eric's design. I'm assuming the bias is fixed.

 

I do not know the B+ and recommended plate current of Eric's design yet... will have to ask him for that. I do know that bias is fixed but can be adjusted. 

[xlr8or]

2 minutes ago, Odyssey said:

 

I do not know the B+ and recommended plate current of Eric's design yet... will have to ask him for that. I do know that bias is fixed but can be adjusted. 

 

Cool. Let me know the B+ then.

[Odyssey]

My 300b will look similar to this but with a slightly bigger chassis and with double chokes and 2 interstage transformers.

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by Odyssey