Jump to content

Pink Triangle turntables


Recommended Posts

I have a Pink Triangle Anniversary Turn table and have decided it needs a birthday,  True point Audio manufactures all new parts along with a the jeweled bearing refurbishment service. The cost for the bearing rebuild is 95 pound's. I have sent my bearing over for a refurbishment. True point site address.

 

http://www.true-point.audio/index.htm

 

http://www.true-point.audio/tpa-pink-triangle-suspension_springs.htm

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, vwo60 said:

I have a Pink Triangle Anniversary Turn table and have decided it needs a birthday,  True point Audio manufactures all new parts along with a the jeweled bearing refurbishment service. The cost for the bearing rebuild is 95 pound's. I have sent my bearing over for a refurbishment. True point site address.

 

http://www.true-point.audio/index.htm

 

http://www.true-point.audio/tpa-pink-triangle-suspension_springs.htm

Why does your TT need a new bearing?

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Colin Rutter said:

Why does your TT need a new bearing?

It is 30 years old and the jeweled bearing is quite fragile, It is not your average bush with a thrust ball, I bought it second hand from the original owner and have no idea what imbeciles have handled it, they do wear out. Quite cheap to replace for such an expensive turn table.

Link to post
Share on other sites


5 hours ago, Citroen said:

Do you have an original pink tinged turntable lid?

Yes, it has the original pink lid, I have all of the boxes, manuals and tools along with all of the SME 5 boxes, tools and set up templates. the Turn table is in excellent condition.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


  • 3 months later...

Christmas came early this year with the acquisition of a fully modded PT by Charles at True Point. This is a stunning sounding turntable and a classy look with the clear perspex cover.

 

The modification is fairly extensive and as it is my first time with a PT table I can’t really compare the sound.  Listening to this turntable with a borrowed Whest PS40 rdt se was up there with some of the best turntables I have heard. 
 

The bearing, motor, speed controller and sub chassis upgrade really works well.

 

The only negative with this turntable is fitting the belt. 

 

85A64695-347A-45CE-9801-C86640BF91EF.jpeg

129ABEF4-3F28-42B9-95A4-5184519E31D6.jpeg

9721C36F-BF1F-4AFD-935A-2F8B17831FC5.jpeg

8374E2AF-6420-4AD8-A283-2C1E52E40A2C.jpeg

135F064A-73A4-4D62-A945-DFCDE5E768D4.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

I've had a PT for my whole audio career. It started as an original PT but has had several trips back to Arthur at PT, upgraded to his latest spec. Of course, he's moved onto other turntables now. The turntable was originally supplied with 3 pieces of pink wool that are used to put on the belt, wool seems to work better than anything else, it's easy to remove without dislodging the belt again. They certainly are a fine sounding turntable.

Link to post
Share on other sites


I use a length of ribbon.

What are you guys using to lubricate the sapphire bearing?

I read online to use Molykote grease.

I'm thinking about getting one of Charles power supplies.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
2 hours ago, Pegasus said:

I use a length of ribbon.

What are you guys using to lubricate the sapphire bearing?

I read online to use Molykote grease.

I'm thinking about getting one of Charles power supplies.

There's something about the grip/slipperiness of wool that's worked the best for me.

I spoke to Arthur about bearing lubrication and he recommended 10/50 synthetic car oil!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Pegasus said:

I use a length of ribbon.

What are you guys using to lubricate the sapphire bearing?

I read online to use Molykote grease.

I'm thinking about getting one of Charles power supplies.

I’ve just been checking my speed with a Kab speed check and it is spot on and very stable. 

Edited by PKay
Link to post
Share on other sites


  • 3 weeks later...
  • Moderators
On 28/12/2020 at 1:33 PM, PKay said:

Being new to PT and its setup I found this helpful.  I would be curious to know what gap people are adjusting to?

 

Levelling the suspension

 

http://www.lotsov.info/pt-revival/PTMA_user_manual/attachments/ptma_suspension_annotated.jpeg

 


PT Photo of adjusters.PNG

 


PT set up.PNG

In my experience of 40 years of PT usage, the important thing is to adjust so that the belt sits straight on the inner platter groove and straight in relation to the vector drive pulleys. It also needs to sit high enough so that suspension bounce doesn't bottom out on the underside of the platter, but not so high that the belt rolls off the inner platter groove. You're lucky you still have the little pink triangle, Arthur removed mine when it went back to the factory for upgrades.

 

What tonearm are you planning on using? Do you know that you may need to add weight if the arm is to light?

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, proftournesol said:

In my experience of 40 years of PT usage, the important thing is to adjust so that the belt sits straight on the inner platter groove and straight in relation to the vector drive pulleys. It also needs to sit high enough so that suspension bounce doesn't bottom out on the underside of the platter, but not so high that the belt rolls off the inner platter groove. You're lucky you still have the little pink triangle, Arthur removed mine when it went back to the factory for upgrades.

 

What tonearm are you planning on using? Do you know that you may need to add weight if the arm is to light?

I will be using my Audio Origami PU7 when the armboard arrives from the UK. Charles at True Point Audio is shipping it tonight. 
 

the other option I have is a Helius Orion Mk II which will be going to Mark Döhmann on Monday for a service. I think both should be heavy enough. 
 

Hooking up the belt is a major challenge so I’m just glad to get it on. I will try Charles’s little tool first and then your wool trick if the tool doesn’t work. 
 

40 years is impressive- my first listen was very enjoyable and pleasing  since I bought the table on a recommendation from @rossb never having heard a PT before. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

Back in 1983 I went out to buy a Linn. I heard it, then the guy in the shop said "you owe it to yourself to listen to a Pink Triangle before you pay for the Linn. I left with the Pink Triangle. It was an original, upgraded to a PTE, then to the latest spec with vector drive, power supply, carbon top plate. I replaced the bottom baseboard with a laminated balsa board, also an improvement. Unfortunately, my pink lid has fallen apart after 40 years☺️.

I use a Kuzma stooge Reference on mine, it's around 800g, Arthur said that was the perfect weight for the armboard. I've also added a carbon fibre armboard.

The advantage of the wool is that you can attach 2 or the 3 sides at once (one loop in each hand) or all 3 at once of you get a helping hand.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

The PU7 is now on the PT while the Orion is off to Mark Döhmann for a comprehensive repair. 
 

After putting it all together I didn’t realise I somehow got some air in the slave pulley which caused it to rub on the underside of the platter. After talking to Charles I burped the slave pulley and things are great again. 
 

The little tool made light work of putting the belt on 😀
 

So after all that effort (and there is a lot more effort with these decks) it sounds fantastic. This table is dynamic, musical and just so enjoyable. I could listen to music for hours if wasn’t for family and work commitments. Once set up properly this turntable is incredible.  I checked the speed and it sits on the correct speed. The vector pulley system with the lightweight acrylic platter is brilliant.

  • Like 1
  • Love 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

How do you guys go about levelling the platter?  What is the ideal distance between the bottom of the platter and the top plate of the turntable? My armboard is pretty much level with the top plate of the turntable.  I am finding that I have a very tiny wobble with my platter spinning which I don't think is affecting the sound.

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.  My latest learning is to let the arm fully settling when taking the VTF readings, it is really interesting to see the weight reducing as the springs settle.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

I use a spirit level to level the platter. The ideal distance is one where the sub-chassis can bounce freely without either hitting the bottom of the platter with the motor spindle or having the belt drop off. On my turntable that's about 2-3mm

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, proftournesol said:

I use a spirit level to level the platter. The ideal distance is one where the sub-chassis can bounce freely without either hitting the bottom of the platter with the motor spindle or having the belt drop off. On my turntable that's about 2-3mm

Is it 2-3mm at all three spring points?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

yes, as long as everything is parallel, it's more important that the belt site parallel in the platter and that the suspension doesn't scrape or hit the bottom of the platter as it bounces. One time I had it working best at what looked like a strange non-parallel setup but that was how I discovered that my wall mounted shelf was sagging and the platter was the only thing that was truly horizontal so if you are using it on a suspended wooden floor in an old house make sure to true up your stand first.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • proftournesol changed the title to Pink Triangle turntables
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...