DIY Power Cable with US Power Plug

[audiofeline]

My technical mistake above.

But if the insulation can't contain the voltage, it's unsafe/dangerous.

[audiofeline]

3 hours ago, Spider27 said:

...The top AU power plug sealed is sourced from JayCar and it looks like a toy comparing with US power plug [on the lead]...

Yes, but looks can be deceiving.  You can fit an expensive-looking cover around the cheap Aust plug and it will look high-class but still essentially be the same cheap plug.  But ultimately what determines the quality is the pins, the wire connectors, and to a lesser extent, the insulation (providing it meets safety requirements), etc.  The expensive-looking US plug may not have as good hardware under the covers (eg. lower-quality metal in the pins, poor wire connectors, less secure strain relief, etc). 

 

A good quality Aust. plug is the Clipsal 1439SHD 10A.  The HD differentiates it from the standard similar looking plug (without the HD in the product code), and it has a 13.6mm cord opening at the back (and this could probably be made a few mm larger if required). 

I've used these to replace some plugs which are similar to the one in the packet in the above photo.  But I will admit that my primary motivation was to have something that looked better, to be a better visual match to the quality of the devices, rather than expecting any audio benefits (which I haven't heard). 

 

 

[andyr]

10 hours ago, Spider27 said:

 

Hi Andy. Thank you for the suggestion. I just googled it and it looks very similar to the one that I also got from JayCar the other day. (Here is the photo  ) I have not seen HPM one physically but this JayCar Side Entry one looks very cheap too comparing with heavy duty Clipsal one recommended or US plugs shown. 

 

 

 

 

That one is not designed for heavy-duty cable - it is a cheap, Chinese-made copy of HPM 106/1WE.

 

10 hours ago, Spider27 said:

Hi, Andy. May I know what power cable that you use to make your own cable?  The one that I have is very sturdy and well made and lots of copper inside but very stiff and not flexible at all. 

I bought it from Laurence & Hansen.

 

Andy

 

[Misternavi]

On 25/08/2020 at 2:01 PM, Spider27 said:

Hello.

 

I have a couple of good quality US Main Plug that I would like to try. Yep, I understand that it is not recommended to use International Power Plug other than AU plug and it can void insurance but want to try it anyhow .  I have universal Power Strip so US Plug will fit fine.

 

One thing that I am unsure is polarity of US Power Plug. It looks like reversed the phase. AU power plug has usually left is Live and Right is Neutral. But US Plug indicates opposite, meaning Left is Neutral and Right is Live.  In this case, is it recommended to ignore what US Plug indicates and wire them as AU power plug does since I am using it in Australia?

 

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

https://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/56P310/clipsal-56p10-3-pin-10amp-straight-plug-56-series.html

 

[Spider27]

Has anyone tried this one? Kaiser AUS Main Plug.

 

https://www.mcru.co.uk/product/martin-kaiser-aus-mains-plug/

 

Not sure how it compares with Clipsal ones but looks very well made in black and quite popular.

Edited August 27, 2020 by Spider27

[Guest Mr Thorens]

57 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

Has anyone tried this one? Kaiser AUS Main Plug.

 

https://www.mcru.co.uk/product/martin-kaiser-aus-mains-plug/

 

Not sure how it compares with Clipsal ones but looks very well made in black and quite popular.

It works, accepts Belden 19364 (just) but inside it has a connector from the cable mount to the prongs that is quite narrow gauge. The Clipsal 1439SHD is superior and AU approved. 

[Guest rmpfyf]

On 25/08/2020 at 8:11 PM, Decky said:

Voltage drives your insulation thickness choice and that is mainly applicable to cables since all plugs have enough insulation thickness for much higher voltage than 240V. 

 

(HA HA HA HA) um no. Always pay attention to rated voltage. Yes, most cable insulation is designed for global markets but I'd not assume it all is. 

 

On 25/08/2020 at 10:41 PM, Aperalim said:

Sincere question to all – has anyone known of a fire to be started or a house actually burned down from US AC power connectors  being used in residential scenario Australia?  I know the thought is truly diabolical and I would never wish it upon anyone but has it ever actually happened?

 

Yup.

 

On 25/08/2020 at 9:04 PM, Spider27 said:

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I might try it for myself soon.  I tried THOR powerboard and they were a bit disappointment.

 

You'd do better trying something fit for purpose. Thor advertises their boards for surge protection and mains filtering, and from that perspective they're excellent. 

[Misternavi]

2 hours ago, Spider27 said:

Has anyone tried this one? Kaiser AUS Main Plug.

 

https://www.mcru.co.uk/product/martin-kaiser-aus-mains-plug/

 

Not sure how it compares with Clipsal ones but looks very well made in black and quite popular.

the 1439HD or SHD what ever it's called these days is very good.

 

At work we had a heater once that melted a power plug. Changed it to a 1439HD and it worked perfectly after that.  

 

[Red MacKay]

23 hours ago, misternavi said:

https://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/56P310/clipsal-56p10-3-pin-10amp-straight-plug-56-series.html

 

***DISCLAIMER - I am NOT a registered nor licensed electrician. ***

 

 

If you might be a cheap ar*se like me, the Clipsal 56 industrial series plugs work a treat for the male plug.

They can accommodate up to 17mm cable, but more importantly they provide a path for strangulation of the conductors.

This is important because - if for some reason the lead is pulled, snagged, that the conductors cannot pull pressure on the physical connection of the conductor to the pin, compromising that physical/electrical connection.

 

Pic #2 is an old Clipsal 56 Series plug. Note - it does not have the black insulation covered pins.  New ones do.

 

If you don't mind spending some money, the Furutech are the ones to go for.   (around $60)   I've tried all varied sorts of other plugs, but near all of them I found to be total crap and unsatisfactory from a safety perspective.

 

The Furutech feature an external strangulation clamp, that while looks like it might be designed by a farmer for the back of his tractor - I have found works very well.  Furutech did have an issue with their pins when they first started making these AU male plugs, but I believe after a few complaints back then that they have redesigned that aspect and now it is no longer an issue at all.

 

 

Edited August 27, 2020 by Red MacKay

[Misternavi]

37 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

the Furutech are the ones to go for.   (around $60) 

They are $145 at Krispy

https://krispyaudio.com.au/products/furutech-fi-au3112g-gold-power-connector.html

 

 

[Spider27]

Cheapest price that I could find for Frutech power connector is $131.82.

https://www.classaaudio.com.au/cable-plugs/271-furutech-fi-au3112g-hi-end-australian-plugs.html

[Bill125812]

59 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

If you might be a cheap ar*se like me, the Clipsal 56 industrial series plugs work a treat for the male plug.

They can accommodate up to 17mm cable, but more importantly they provide a path for strangulation of the conductors.

Like you Red. I’ve tried lots of plugs. I actually like the Clipsal plugs  a lot.  But if you have the cash the. Furutech Is the one to go for.  I’ve brought in many from China, as many of the power cable people do, and IMHO most are crap. And dangerous.  I’ve thought about making some for membets, but mine would be tagged and tested by a qualified electrician before going out. 

[muon*]

On 25/08/2020 at 9:04 PM, Spider27 said:

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I might try it for myself soon.  I tried THOR powerboard and they were a bit disappointment.

 

On 25/08/2020 at 9:18 PM, Mr Thorens said:

Yes I didn’t want to mention that one, it killed the dynamics and compressed the soundstage. The Belkin was much much better and has remained in my system. 

The Thor ones will is you use them for amps, but work really well for everything else. I use a pair daisy chained for my source.

[Red MacKay]

Go talk to David or Michael out at AV in Ringwood.

 

They always looked after me and times are tough...

 

...And how much is your life worth.  I worked in a cemetery for many years and the thing I learned is you are a longtime dead and there is NO playing with any audio toys after you are in the box in the back of the herse!

 

Get yourself one of these testers too.  They will indicate 5 different faults. and when all your connections are correct.

 

Nope - I have no idea where you get them from, as this is an old one.

 

If you make a short adaptor with a male IEC to go into a female - you can use this tester to check for wrong connections at the end of your IEC cord too.

 

 

[Guest Mr Thorens]

48 minutes ago, Bill125812 said:

Like you Red. I’ve tried lots of plugs. I actually like the Clipsal plugs  a lot.  But if you have the cash the. Furutech Is the one to go for.  I’ve brought in many from China, as many of the power cable people do, and IMHO most are crap. And dangerous.  I’ve thought about making some for membets, but mine would be tagged and tested by a qualified electrician before going out. 

I agree 100%. If it’s not Furutech (expensive) then the Clipsal 56P310 is the way to go. 

[Red MacKay]

I see these plugs on some diy cables and they might be another good choice.

 

I have personally not used then, so cannot comment.

 

 Clipsal 1439SHD heavy duty mains plugs

 

[Cloth Ears]

On 28/08/2020 at 10:51 AM, Red MacKay said:

...And how much is your life worth.  I worked in a cemetery for many years and the thing I learned is you are a longtime dead and there is NO playing with any audio toys after you are in the box in the back of the hearse!

 

x100!!!

 

Of course, IMO these cords are a waste of money if a suitable power-smoothing device is not in place prior to the power cord. And as my budget doesn't run to an extra $10K, standard cords are fine with me. And, naturally, and IEC is another way to lose out - have your power cord soldered...much better!

Edited August 30, 2020 by Cloth Ears
fixed discordant spelling

[Spider27]

26 minutes ago, Cloth Ears said:

x100!!!

 

Of course, IMO these chords are a waste of money if a suitable power-smoothing device is not in place prior to the power chord. And as my budget doesn't run to an extra $10K, standard chords are fine with me. And, naturally, and IEC is another way to lose out - have your power chord soldered...much better!

 

may I ask what the power-smoothing device that you are referring to? Cheers.

[Spider27]

28 minutes ago, Cloth Ears said:

And, naturally, and IEC is another way to lose out - have your power chord soldered...much better!

 

Yes, I see the point and soldering power cord and bypassing IEC connection would be a good (less connection between, less chance to bad I guess).  I noticed that many vintage amp has dedicated power cord but most of modern amps come with IEC connection so no other choice but use separate power cord with IEC connector on end.

[pwstereo]

14 minutes ago, Cloth Ears said:

Of course, IMO these chords are a waste of money if a suitable power-smoothing device is not in place prior to the power chord. And as my budget doesn't run to an extra $10K, standard chords are fine with me. And, naturally, and IEC is another way to lose out - have your power chord soldered...much better!

It's cord, not chord, a chord is when you play notes together on a musical instrument.

I hope you were being silly/sarcastic about soldering power cords. If you were serious, you should clarify what you meant.

AU wiring rules say:

"3.7.2.7 Soldered connections Where a soldered connection is used, the design shall take account of creep, mechanical stress and temperature rise under fault conditions. Soft-soldered connections shall not be clamped under a screw or between metal surfaces."

 

So you can't solder the wire ends before inserting them into the screw terminals on a power socket or plug. I don't imagine it would be easy to solder the wires into the screw terminals either, sufficient heat into the large terminal to get good solder wetting would overheat the insulation of the plug or socket body and the wire insulation.

[bob_m_54]

2 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

It's cord, not chord, a chord is when you play notes together on a musical instrument.

I hope you were being silly/sarcastic about soldering power cords. If you were serious, you should clarify what you meant.

AU wiring rules say:

"3.7.2.7 Soldered connections Where a soldered connection is used, the design shall take account of creep, mechanical stress and temperature rise under fault conditions. Soft-soldered connections shall not be clamped under a screw or between metal surfaces."

 

So you can't solder the wire ends before inserting them into the screw terminals on a power socket or plug. I don't imagine it would be easy to solder the wires into the screw terminals either, sufficient heat into the large terminal to get good solder wetting would overheat the insulation of the plug or socket body and the wire insulation.

And it's cable not cord LOL. cords are for holding ya jammy duds up.

 

But the point about soldering was to solder direct to the circuit board, via suitable solder tags, inside the component. Not solder to the plug contacts.

[Guest rmpfyf]

3 hours ago, Red MacKay said:

Get yourself one of these testers too.  They will indicate 5 different faults. and when all your connections are correct.

 

Bunnings has 'em. Very cheap. Very effective. 

 

Every house should have one.

[Cloth Ears]

54 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

 

may I ask what the power-smoothing device that you are referring to? Cheers.

https://holtonprecisionaudio.com/collections/power-conditioners/products/holton-balanced-isolation-one-3kva

https://www.isoteksystems.com/product/select/evo3-titan/

and similar...although I'd probably want a full rectifier/inverter UPS system to do it properly. Working with them big computers makes you appreciate smooth power.

 

51 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

It's cord, not chord, a chord is when you play notes together on a musical instrument.

I think both make as much sense when it comes to improving the sound of your system by fiddling with 1-2m of power cable.

 

53 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

I hope you were being silly/sarcastic about soldering power cords. If you were serious, you should clarify what you meant.

Of coarse (sic) I was serious. Removing the IEC socket and replacing it with a hard-wired power cable would be far more sensible then plugging a fancy cable into a bog-stock IEC socket and pretending it makes more than a visual improvement. A few of my bits and pieces are hardwired (as well as the fridge, oven, etc) and as far as I know they all meet AS/NZS 3000:2018.

 

I guess "Of course, IMO" was missed...

[Spider27]

2 minutes ago, Cloth Ears said:

https://holtonprecisionaudio.com/collections/power-conditioners/products/holton-balanced-isolation-one-3kva

Great to know and yes, they are out of my reach.   

2 minutes ago, Cloth Ears said:

Of coarse (sic) I was serious. Removing the IEC socket and replacing it with a hard-wired power cable would be far more sensible then plugging a fancy cable into a bog-stock IEC socket and pretending it makes more than a visual improvement. A few of my bits and pieces are hardwired (as well as the fridge, oven, etc) and as far as I know they all meet AS/NZS 3000:2018.

 

How do we fill the IEC socket mount hole and hold the cable tight after solder the cable to circuit board inside the amp? 

 

[muon*]

Have you talked to Hugh Dean the maker of the amp about this?