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kelossus

Removing adhesive from timber veneer

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I have taken on a restoration of some vintage Infinity RS4.5. The previous owner has glued foam to the back baffle and based on my research it's not meant to be there and not considered an upgrade.

 

I do intend to refinish the cabinets at some point but I still want to remove the adhesive with as little damage as possible. I can pick it off in some places with my fingers so it hasn't really bonded too well the veneer itself. I was going to get some orange oil and a blunt putty knife and have a crack at it. Any other ideas that might speed up the process and avoid damage.

 

20200712_081040.thumb.jpg.723402b0a5827c84a381d74023525d35.jpg

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Maybe try a heat gun (carefully) on part of it. Just depends on what the adhesive is, but you definitely don't want to ruin the adhesive under the veneer.

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Yep that's definitely an idea. I have a heat gun with 3 variable temp settings. I was hoping there would be a solvent someone could recommend.

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Posted (edited)

Spray it repeatedly with either pure isopropyl alcohol or acetone to break down the glue three or four times , then use a rag drenched in either don't use a heat gun you will pull the veneer off reheating it only reconstitute the glue . Let the sprays evaporate to do their stuff use a mask too the stuff isn't pleasant, acetone will work quicker but I use both alternating . 

Edited by DEANO23

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If you have some, lighter fluid often works well. Just don’t try it with the heat gun too 🤓

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Orange oil or  eucalyptus oil  should enable the  adhesive to be peeled away safely.  Out door work though.

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Posted (edited)

Thinners would be my first choice.  I'd avoid anything with oil if you intend to refinish.  

 

Also, if you have the skills, a very sharp wood chisel used as a scraper should remove most of it, then dissolve and remove the rest by thinners. 

Edited by Peter_F

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Thinners would probably take off the original finish as well if you’re not careful. What to use depends on what the glue is....if it’s a contact glue( doesn’t look like it though) I would try gum turps. White spirit might work on other adhesives. Try a few including meths carefully and see if it budges. I think it’s a case of gently gently catch the monkey if you don’t want an unholy mess or to lift the veneer.

 

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Posted (edited)

Goof Off would be worth a try.

Edited by THOMO

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38 minutes ago, Pebbles said:

Thinners would probably take off the original finish as well if you’re not careful. 

 

The OP intends to refinish, and thinners will not damage the veneer.

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3 hours ago, kelossus said:

there would be a solvent someone could recommend.

Tread carefully.    I'm skeptical about the orange oil.

 

It's hard to say without seeing it up close.... but if it's coming off now with nothing but a knife, then I would pick off as much as you can carefully that way, before I went anywhere near heat or solvent.    Heat may make it sticky again, and solvent might cause the glue to stain the veneer, or maybe even mark the veneer itself alone (depending on the sepcific solvent).

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Depending how veneer is finished Orange oil will likely penetrate and stain the veneer which is normally approx 0.6mm thick.

Do you know what type of adhesive it is?

If you can determine that I would be asking manufacturer for advice on what solvent will break down the glue but Iooking at the amount of glue liberally applied to the surface I must admit I am pessimistic about your chances of full restoration back to original veneer surface.

My guess from the colour of the adhesive in your photo is that it could be Fulaprene  which I have used previously:

https://www.hbfuller.com.au/products/adhesives/fulaprene-303-adhesive-sealant/

Good luck!!

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I'd try eucalyptus oil or even a bit of car polish, i've found those pretty useful on all surfaces in the past. 

Depending on the surface and how much used a wash down after is also worthwhile...

 

Failing all that, there is a lady on 3AW melbourne that comes on once a week during the Dee Dee shift that has these recipes/ways of somehow knowing every surfcase and material known to man and how to remove stains, glues etc.  one of the callers last week had superglue down the side of his car door and she immediately reeled off the way to remove it LOL.  Try locate her potentially for a FB page or website if all else fails..

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It feels like an acrylic adhesive. It's kind of the consistency of gap filler. I tried turps but it didn't seem to budge it.

 

I don't have any metho but I do have acetone. Acetone might be a bit harsh?

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10 minutes ago, kelossus said:

It feels like an acrylic adhesive. It's kind of the consistency of gap filler. I tried turps but it didn't seem to budge it.

 

I don't have any metho but I do have acetone. Acetone might be a bit harsh?

I won’t recommend acetone,  that will definitely effect the finish.   But if you wanna try it because you have it at hand,  try  it on a surface that’s not going to draw your eye to it if it does damage.

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Posted (edited)

Could it be something like Sikaflex® 11FC polyurethane adhesive? if so, it will have a slightly rubbery texture when cured. If it is, you've got problems, only mechanical abrasion will remove what doesn't peel off.

 

Edit: Scraping then maybe a nylon rotary brush, but be careful the brush doesn't wear down between the grain in the timber. Tghen sand and finish the timber in your preferred way.

Edited by bob_m_54

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32 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said:

Could it be something like Sikaflex® 11FC polyurethane adhesive? if so, it will have a slightly rubbery texture when cured. If it is, you've got problems, only mechanical abrasion will remove what doesn't peel off.

 

Edit: Scraping then maybe a nylon rotary brush, but be careful the brush doesn't wear down between the grain in the timber. Tghen sand and finish the timber in your preferred way.

Bang on there mate. Looks like sikaflex to me, you would need to get the bulk of it off mechanically, ie very sharp chisel as advised above. Then go to Bunnings and grab some wax and grease remover and use with a non scratch scouter pad. Spot test first of course.
5CD0D73E-0551-4367-8F61-BBA396FF692E.jpeg.bfaa5912e41c9bd6f7a90b40b162b7e6.jpeg

 

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23 minutes ago, Pops110 said:

Bang on there mate. Looks like sikaflex to me, you would need to get the bulk of it off mechanically, ie very sharp chisel as advised above. Then go to Bunnings and grab some wax and grease remover and use with a non scratch scouter pad. Spot test first of course.
5CD0D73E-0551-4367-8F61-BBA396FF692E.jpeg.bfaa5912e41c9bd6f7a90b40b162b7e6.jpeg

 

That may do it, or even use steel wool as the scourer (not the soapy kind LOL) The W&G won't dissolve the sika, but may help to wet the surface and allow you to wipe it away better, as you scour. And only go in the same direction of the grain.

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22 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said:

That may do it, or even use steel wool as the scourer (not the soapy kind LOL) The W&G won't dissolve the sika, but may help to wet the surface and allow you to wipe it away better, as you scour. And only go in the same direction of the grain.

Yep this. And buy the real fine steel wool. 000 or similar 

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Posted (edited)

I use a lot of Sikaflex in my trade, Metho is the antidote while wet once it's cured nothing will touch it chemically. 

 

Sharp broad chisel, hold it flat on the timber at an acute angle and charge into the Sikaflex. Be brave but keep the chisel flat, last thing you want is an edge to dig in. Once you have the bulk off hand block sand the whole surface, don't Nancy with it start with 120 after all you want to take all the lacquer off as well. Finish with 180 or 240 you don't need anything finer until after your first coat of sealer.

 

I think you will be alright Chris as the sika was applied to lacquered veneer, if it was raw you would have no chance. 

Edited by Powerglide

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Posted (edited)

Definitely not sikaflex/poly or silicone. Not rubbery at all. It's like the consistency of dried gap filler but its obviously not gap filler, that's just the best description I can give.

Edited by kelossus

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I'd use the same dry method, thinners run the risk of melting the glue with the original lacquer and embedded it deep into the grain. 

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11 minutes ago, kelossus said:

Definitely not sikaflex/poly or silicone. Not rubbery at all. It's like the consistency of dried gap filler but its obviously not gap filler, that's just the best description I can give.

Where was owner when they applied the glue – US or Australia?

I am with Powerglide best to mechanically remove as much of the bulk of the adhesive as possible with a sharp broad chisel then perhaps followed with a freshly burred cabinet scraper (not a paint scraper!) – if you can get hold of one like these: https://www.ebay.com.au/i/161694160029?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=161694160029&targetid=920064925813&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070558&poi=&campaignid=10101785195&mkgroupid=102311926460&rlsatarget=aud-786643581046:pla-920064925813&abcId=1145981&merchantid=114842196&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6ar4BRDnARIsAITGzlCv1L19cg1wSDd22RM9Rv2Gu540Un7KfxlsQIN9Ut_0dCmEcD4WA3AaAiXGEALw_wcB)

This will get you down to bare veneer before final sanding and refinishing.

"How to" here:

Good luck!

 

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The citrus solvent (eg. De Solv-It, from Bunnings) is wonderful for adhesive that is used for stickers, labels, etc. It doesn't work with hot glue, etc. 

 

The adhesive in the OP's pic doesn't look like that the type of adhesive that will work with citrus solvent.  It does look a bit like "liquid nails". 

 

Good luck with the removal. 

 

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