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2 minutes ago, betty boop said:

Most 2ch integrated and 2ch pre from last 15 years tend to have the feature... can be called ht bypass. Ht direct, processor pas through and such ... some provide an input for the  feature,  others allow any input be setup for it.  But yeah have to have the feature to use it :)

I was thinking of using Anthem integrated 225 with my Anthem MRX710. Thought that would match well with each other, it does have tone defeat but not HT bypass. Sadly, I can’t afford the Anthem STR integrated.

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You can use an integrated amp without a HT bypass.. 

 

Run the L&R pre out of AVR into any input of the integrated amp, turn the volume up to about 2 o'clock and do the channel levels on the AVR as normal. 

 

So when you want to use the AVR, the Integrated has to be on that input and the volume at 2 o'clock. 

 

When listening to 2ch you change the input to your 2 ch source and adjust the volume to suit. 

 

Back to AVR, switch input and volume back to 2 o'clock.. 

 

Works, but can be cumbersome and not really wife or kid friendly. 

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3 minutes ago, Hytram said:

You can use an integrated amp without a HT bypass.. 

 

Run the L&R pre out of AVR into any input of the integrated amp, turn the volume up to about 2 o'clock and do the channel levels on the AVR as normal. 

 

So when you want to use the AVR, the Integrated has to be on that input and the volume at 2 o'clock. 

 

When listening to 2ch you change the input to your 2 ch source and adjust the volume to suit. 

 

Back to AVR, switch input and volume back to 2 o'clock.. 

 

Works, but can be cumbersome and not really wife or kid friendly. 

usually 12 o'clock is sufficient with most....

 

indeed i did for some years myself.... included the odd fright when forgot to turn the vol back down for 2ch :D and yeah none of the family would dare go near either system :D not its touch of a button or via universal remotes and without any of the frights :D 

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23 minutes ago, :) Go Away (: said:

I was thinking of using Anthem integrated 225 with my Anthem MRX710. Thought that would match well with each other, it does have tone defeat but not HT bypass. Sadly, I can’t afford the Anthem STR integrated.

Use the Quick Measure tool in ARC Genesis on the MRX 710 to help you calibrate the correct volume to use on the 225.  Check that the volume of the mains is about the same as the rest of the HT speakers and note the position (can be 12 or 2 o'clock or any position) on the 225 volume knob.  You can use tape to mark the location and reuse it when playing movies.

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Went through this recently. Had tons of amps of the years. But the bigger AV side..

 

ARCAM AVR400 > Denon AVR-X3000 with NAD m25 > Marantz av7002 mk2 with NAD m25 - so proper splits.

 

ARCAM was good but started to think its a lot of money invested into 1 all in one unit. So split it out to the Denon/NAD. Massive improvement. Then recently x3000 was missing some features (plus wanted to give to family members) so went for the Marantz even though it was a bit older age it was new and had want I needed, except the newer hdmi 2.1 (hopefully don't regret it in the near future). It was that or another all in one AVR acting as a preamp for about the same price. Marantz was better than the Denon AVR. The room correction was significantly better that now I actually use it. The Marantz also doesn't get hot like the Denon.. even powering no speakers it still got hot. 

 

I looked at the Emotiva models etc cause they are appealing for their price. Ended up staying away from them after looking online about hdmi issues... No thanks. Had a feeling it was missing something like HDR or something odd. Could be wrong there.

 

Although its the best its ever been now with the Marantz, I still recall the day I had the Denon and NAD setup. It was a significant step up and best bang for buck long term.

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

For music ultimately there is only one option. And that is seperate 2 channel system with either HT bypass or like others have said just calibrate with volume control at a reference position to take an AVR etc output. 

 

Preouts on AVRs (or AVR anything) are not something I've been impressed with and even if okay you are still stuck without being able to add a better DAC into the system. And feeding a better DAC into an AVRs analogue in is pointless on AVRs etc I've seen as even in pure direct the signal still goes through the ADC/DAC, so you have just degraded the better DAC to the AVR etcs DAC anyway. There isn't an equivalent of a analogue only preamp. 

 

You could by a prepro and a stack of $200 1980s stereo amps for each channel pair and have better sound than an AVR. And use something higher end but equally old for the L and R. 

 

A number of Bluray players analogue outs connected to a stack of stereo amps smash many AVRs. 

 

A few years ago, what was then a 10 year old flagship Panasonic Bluray player's analogue outs, smashed my current model $2500-$3000 AVR Preouts. This set me on a path away from AVRs etc, so much marketing hype. 

 

An Oppo 205 when new and available for $1800 was the best value prepro money could buy. And it is a Bluray player with ARC, HDMI inputs, can run as a USB DAC, network streamer, and plug USB HDs into it. I later added an external DAC for L/R channels of the coax output, mainly for music. 

 

This 20 year old 5.1 computer sound card connected to stereo amps is still better than some AVRs. 

 

 

I own two Oppos which do what I want HT wise and I'm free of HT equipment. 

 

Trying to audition the 205 in shops was frustrating. After arranging an audition always found they were connected via HDMI to Anthem/Yamaha etc AV setups with inferior sound to the 205. 

 

Basically, there are better options than an AVR and for music at least go for a separate 2 channel system that may be part of a HT setup. 

 

AVRs are Swiss Army knives.  Useful for having a range of tools all in one small package. But none of the tools are very good. 

 

EDIT: Apologies, probably really just having a whinge from regretful spending on stuff that promised the world from a manufacturer that can make decent gear that sounded fine in the shop until it was plugged into decent speakers which revealed all the flaws. And shops that steer people to HT AVRs when buying first gear, when a better starting point IMHO, would be starting with decent stereo. And the fact that new gear may be no better or often worse than stuff sold 10 or 20 years ago, just continually ever more features packed into a box that may do nothing for sound quality. 

Edited by DrSK

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