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benz1980

First dedicated home theatre build

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Hi guys, new member here.

 

My wife and I are close to building our first home. I have a dedicated home theatre room approved 3.8m by 6m. 3m high ceilings and solid double doors to the side closer to the front so the doors don't swing into the seats.

 

The plan is to have 2 rows of seating with a raiser at the back. I am thinking go big with the screen at around 160" in 16:9 format. 

I have a Krix 5.1.2 set up at the moment with a Onkyo TX SR555 reciever (will need to replace this as I plan on at least 9.2.4 eventually). 

 

I will go a false screen with my current speakers behind.

 

The builder says for a room this size I will need at least a 3m wide window.

Happy to hear feedback on window positioning. Long and higher horizontal window or try 2 vertically?

 

I have been considering having 4 columns to house my bookshelf speakers.

 

As for seats I am thinking 3 at the front and 4 out the rear but I haven't gone into detail on size and measurements or drawn up a plan yet (waiting on final approvals for finances and what my budget is for the room).

 

The builder said they can put up the false wall but won't do the rear seat raiser.

I am leaning towards having specialist home theatre guys work on the room from a shell if the budget allows. 

Reducing noise leaving the room is somewhat important as the room is close to out neighbour. A room within a room will likely not be an option as I don't want to lose too much of the room. 

 

I have the option of having a HT rack in storage near the bathroom. Option to mount the projector in a box in the garage for a greater throw distance and sound reduction. The projector I am considering is Benq W5700.

 

We will have ducted air and heating. How much sound travels through the vents?

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Posted (edited)

double doors will mean more sound leaves your room, just from a guess.

 

the riser is not a big deal to build, but yes the builder can knock up a false wall in a few minutes, no biggy there.

 

dont put a window between your 2 rows.

 

9.? dont you mean 7.2.4?

 

from experience you will have the front row "eye to screen" at about 3.2m seated a 160" 16:9 screen will be too big imo. any gaming impossible due to eye movement. maybe ok if you went one row at 4.5+ meters

Edited by hopefullguy

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My HT is almost exactly the same dimensions, 3.9m by 6 with a single door where you have the double. You will struggle to fit 4 HT chairs at the back. My riser is 1800 deep and I've disconnected the recliner power supplies, as there simply isn't room for them to recline fully.

1 hour ago, benz1980 said:

We will have ducted air and heating. How much sound travels through the vents?

lots but you can get specialist duct designs to lessen it. Will the room have independent heating/cooling control?  Our's didn't so I've had my heating and evaporative cooling decommissioned and now have a black reverse cycle AC in the rear wall.

 

Here's a bit of a build thread of mine. I had a proper build thread on DTV but it was lost in the transition to SNA.

 

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On 13/06/2020 at 10:46 AM, benz1980 said:

We will have ducted air and heating. How much sound travels through the vents?

 

On 13/06/2020 at 12:26 PM, blybo said:

lots but you can get specialist duct designs to lessen it

 

any additional details on these? 

we have a house build underway and we have ducted air con for a room that's had a bit additional work for sound isolation. the builder isn't really across what solutions are out there that he can readily add into the mix to help with limiting sound escaping via the vents. he's looking into it but asked if looked into it also. we thought there might be specialist vent diffusers or duct dampening accessories (like a muffler of sorts).     

 

not had much joy so I plan to ring around, but thought i'd ask here

cheers 

 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, wasabijim said:

 

 

any additional details on these? 

we have a house build underway and we have ducted air con for a room that's had a bit additional work for sound isolation. the builder isn't really across what solutions are out there that he can readily add into the mix to help with limiting sound escaping via the vents. he's looking into it but asked if looked into it also. we thought there might be specialist vent diffusers or duct dampening accessories (like a muffler of sorts).     

 

not had much joy so I plan to ring around, but thought i'd ask here

cheers 

 

You should ask to speak directly to the aircon contractor the builder is using and state your requirements over a ducting plan between rooms.

 

In modern quiet house designs near major noisy roads the issue of outside noise intrusion via vents is significant enough to recommend self closing duct dampers so it will exist in the reverse internally between rooms. Exactly how much noise will depend on many factors like distance, travel path, bends, diameter of duct and noise sensitivity of rooms such as bedrooms and study being most sensitive.

 

In my house I can’t any hear noise through the duct at a distance of 15m so would tend to think it is more likely for immediate rooms closest and that might be a good place to ask for self closing or remote or zone control duct dampening or closers in the adjoining areas.

 

The amount of noise is not likely to be super loud, but more likely low background levels that can be distracting and annoying enough to affect quality sleep or study. 

 

An acoustic consultant specialising in that area may also be needed for advice.

Edited by Al.M

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, wasabijim said:

 

 

any additional details on these? 

we have a house build underway and we have ducted air con for a room that's had a bit additional work for sound isolation. the builder isn't really across what solutions are out there that he can readily add into the mix to help with limiting sound escaping via the vents. he's looking into it but asked if looked into it also. we thought there might be specialist vent diffusers or duct dampening accessories (like a muffler of sorts).     

 

not had much joy so I plan to ring around, but thought i'd ask here

cheers 

 

I haven't researched myself, but know others have used a differing ducting design. I guess as @Al.M has mentioned, talk to a A/C specialist or perhaps a H/T designer.

 

I suspect the cheapest solution would be to not duct the room and solely use a reverse cycle split system for the room. I got our guys installing my split to decomission the evap cooling and ducted gas heating to my HT room, as they couldn't be controlled for that room alone anyway. A HT room gets plenty hot with a projector and 2-6 people in it.

Edited by blybo

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On 13/06/2020 at 10:46 AM, benz1980 said:

A room within a room will likely not be an option as I don't want to lose too much of the room. 

Just have them use isolation clips and channel. Most builders can get their heads around that. Room in Room framing is actually kinda difficult and specialised because of the ceiling joists.

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Mini splits are the way to go for AC - saves all manner of expensive duct work and design. You can get ones (Mitsubishi make one) that go ina  bulkhead, so it can be dressed up to look like ducted.

 

Then just have fresh air supply and return with dead vents

 

Put the return vent near the projector (or better still in its hush box if making one)

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this may be a silly question, but do all rooms need the "return" aspect of ducted air? when I looked at brochure material etc. for the brand we're getting it looked to me that one per floor or as needed is the approach not necessarily every room?

maybe my question should be does the sound room (its not for proper HT, more a rumpus dedicated to music listening and 2.1 HT), dose it need the a/c (or heat) vent AND this return? or is this the "dead-vent" can be used for? it passively allows air flow from adjacent rooms without compromising sound sealing. I can do this into the garage. 

 

At this its dealing with the a/c ducted feed I'm mainly looking at

 

Its probably a bit late in the project to switch from ducted to several splits - you known how they like charging for any variations. 

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You'll need a return in the room if you're closing the door(s).

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6 minutes ago, Quark said:

You'll need a return in the room if you're closing the door(s).

Yep - otherwise any gap around the door will be his return and it'll whistle like a steam train

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