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Posted (edited)

Hi Mates

Greetings..

For my Tannoy Turnberry speakers , currently I am using a wooden stand to get height (made by a local carpenter).  Now I wish to use the original spikes supplied with Tannoy’s. But the problem is.. if I am using spikes, height will not match to my ear level, that’s the reason I made a stand in solid wood.  I read somewhere, that spikes are good for speakers to get the correct tone. How I can use both Wooden stand and spikes together. Is it good? Please refer the below pic. Any suggestions, please share..

 

Kind regards

Pradeep

 

4472C83D-5FD7-4058-949C-E585E40476DB.jpeg

Edited by Pradeep

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1 hour ago, Pradeep said:

Hi Mates

Greetings..

For my Tannoy Turnberry speakers , currently I am using a wooden stand to get height (made by a local carpenter).  Now I wish to use the original spikes supplied with Tannoy’s. But the problem is.. if I am using spikes, height will not match to my ear level, that’s the reason I made a stand in solid wood.  I read somewhere, that spikes are good for speakers to get the correct tone. How I can use both Wooden stand and spikes together. Is it good? Please refer the below pic. Any suggestions, please share..

 

Kind regards

Pradeep

 

4472C83D-5FD7-4058-949C-E585E40476DB.jpeg

  Hello,

in this case the spikes must be between the floor and the platform, as the weight of the platform is less than that of the acoustic system, I think so remembering physics. The bottom of the speaker system should lie smoothly on the platform, use double-sided adhesive tape for a firm fit

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Hello Kestas

Thx for your response. Well noted.

Under the speakers there is hole  to tighten the spike. As you said I have to leave that hole and make drill under the wooden stand to fix spike, am I correct?  I will try in that way.

 

In short, Spikes between Speakers and wooden stand is theoretically not correct. It should be between Stand and Floor. Okay got it.  


Mates... any different suggestions?


Kind regards

Pradeep

 

 

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It's been a while since I've had to worry about stands but:-

The point of spikes is to couple the speakers rigidly to the floor so that the movement of the cones does not move the whole speaker cabinet.

Rather than double-sided tape between the cabinet and stand they used to recommend blu-tac. I've used that successfully.

In the end, it's all about how it sounds to you.

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Excellent results can also be achieved using spikes on both sides of the stands, top and bottom, so both the speakers and stands have spikes.  This usually my preferred method with stands. 

spikes.jpg

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My advice is you will have to try it either way to find out.

If you want to mechanically couple your speakers to the floor spikes are good.

If you want to isolate them them, then spikes will never do that.

Best advice I can give is to try either way to see what YOU prefer to listen to – whether it is affecting tonal balance of your speakers to your liking OR them being dead on horizontal axis of your ears or otherwise upsets your sound quality also.

 

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1 hour ago, Aperalim said:

If you want to isolate them them, then spikes will never do that.

How do you isolate speakers?

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Posted (edited)

Drill holes about 6 0r 7mm diameter and about 8mm deep in the top of the stands and then place a Size 1 ball sinker in each.The speakers then can sit on the ball sinkers.I think that works as well as anything.

Edited by THOMO

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1 hour ago, Peter_F said:

How do you isolate speakers?

With these:

 

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32 minutes ago, Aperalim said:

With these:

 

Is this the ONLY method of isolating speakers, and what's the cost?

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55 minutes ago, THOMO said:

Drill holes about 6 0r 7mm diameter and about 8mm deep in the top of the stands and then place a Size 1 ball sinker in each.The speakers then can sit on the ball sinkers.I think that works as well as anything.

Why not a ball bearing? 

 

IMO this is coupling with round objects rather than spikes so its not isolating.

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4 minutes ago, Peter_F said:

Is this the ONLY method of isolating speakers, and what's the cost?

I seriously doubt this is the ONLY method of isolating speakers.
Sorry I have no idea what cost is but I am sure it wouldn't be difficult for you to find that out? 

John Daly at Sublime HiFi is local dealer for Townshend in Perth – I am sure he could help you.

By the way, I have no connection to Townshend at all just seen this gear in action and impressed.

Cheers

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6 minutes ago, Peter_F said:

Why not a ball bearing? 

 

IMO this is coupling with round objects rather than spikes so its not isolating.

True mechanical isolation is extremely difficult to achieve. 

Just ask the physicists at the Gravity Wave Observatory a short drive out of Perth in Gingin : )

 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Peter_F said:

Why not a ball bearing? 

 

IMO this is coupling with round objects rather than spikes so its not isolating.

Well a sinker has a slightly larger point of contact than a spike but lead is also less  resonant than steel.

Also I have found that the spikes used between the  stand and the speakers work best with the pointy end up [which of course damages the bottom of the speaker] .The sinker idea is similar to that but avoids the damage.

Which is best depends on the speakers and stands too-lossy stands versus high mass ones etc.Lossy like the old Epos ES14 stands are often better.

Edited by THOMO

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Thanks to everyone.

My stand base (leg) is big. You can see in the pic. 
By the way, can we feel any difference in sound,  especially tighten bass if changing from stand to spike? Any thoughts 

regards/ Pradeep

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I did my position set-up without the spikes 'cause moving heavy spiked speakers around on carpet was not easy.

 

When I put the spikes on the bass did tighten. I've done this with three speakers systems and noticed an improvement in sound each time. Of course YMMV.

 

Getting the speakers absolutely rigid on the spikes took some fiddling. 

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On 24/04/2020 at 4:47 PM, Pradeep said:

Hello Kestas

Thx for your response. Well noted.

Under the speakers there is hole  to tighten the spike. As you said I have to leave that hole and make drill under the wooden stand to fix spike, am I correct?  I will try in that way.

 

In short, Spikes between Speakers and wooden stand is theoretically not correct. It should be between Stand and Floor. Okay got it.  


Mates... any different suggestions?


Kind regards

Pradeep

 

 

    Hello,

  That's right, new holes are needed. Is the work already done and already enjoying the improvement?

   Have a nice day!

   Kestas

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Posted (edited)

We’ve discussed it elsewhere, but you could start with a few simple experiments:

 

1. Try a set of these (one under each speaker corner whilst still on your custom stands) and listen.  Ideally, do a blind test!  

 

https://www.google.com.au/shopping/product/7009944954055808264?lsf=seller:100794174,store:6116377407400932400&prds=oid:10607870934297481045&q=whites+bunnings+vibration&hl=en-au&ei=l8mmXpnkIJya4-EPxayK2AU&lsft=gclid:EAIaIQobChMI-b-4zMeI6QIVWB0rCh0CbQ83EAQYAyABEgItLPD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds

Careful!  A full set for both speakers will cost you an Audiophilic $4.  

I’ve had great results with these.

 

2. Try a combo with your spikes.  So, for example, make a stack that goes:

custom stands>whites pads under each corner of an Aldi breadboard (or any timber plank for starters)>spikes>speakers

 

 

 

 

image.jpg

12FD64CB-E419-41C2-800E-1816135871BB.jpeg

Edited by Mat-with-one-t

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Pradeep if you want to use the spikes between the speakers and the platform and keep the speakers at ear level you could get the local carpenter to shorten the legs of the platform by however much the spikes are raising the height of the speakers

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