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WayneG

DIY Subwoofer builds

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Hey guys I wanna know what you are subwoofer setups your building. Basically I wanna know what to build myself so many decisions I already have my inuke300 ready to go just wanna know what to build maybe 2 x 15” or even 2 x 12” let me know what’s worth building 

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You may want to tell us a bit more info, such as:

 

Room size  4x6m, 10x14m and ceiling height.

will be used for movies, music, or both? 

what speakers will you be using with the sub? stand mounts, book shelf, small or large floor standing? surround speaker system only? 

 

People will be more inclined to help you with some solid info, regards your room & current system to be used with the sub.

 

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Room size 3.8 x 4.2 height is 2.4 metre mainly home theatre man but I also like to crank my music I’m running a Klipsch Reference 5.1 at the moment any help appreciated 

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Do you need more info on the speakers I’m running mate?

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11 minutes ago, WayneG said:

Do you need more info on the speakers I’m running mate?

Are they bookshelf rear, floor standing for front mains ? Reference model will be helpful.

Also do you have a budget for your build?

Maximum size sub enclosure you can have in your room?

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R-28F floor speaker fronts

R-25C centre 
R-14F rear speakers 

no real budget mate tbh I’m happy to go into high $1k 

depending on where I place it I should be able to go up to 500x500 cabinet size 

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just buy this

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wilson/speakers/svs-pc-12nsd-subwoofer-for-sale/1240201511

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Haha that’s in my watchlist I want some serious bass will this thing boom I also wanna do twins mate 

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5 hours ago, WayneG said:

Haha that’s in my watchlist I want some serious bass will this thing boom I also wanna do twins mate 

I would build a pair of VBSS (Value Buster Subwoofer System ) designed by Matt Grant from AVS forum and DIYSG

All the info is in this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2226642-v-b-s-s-diy-subwoofer-design-thread.html

 

Including Port tune options,cut list, and even the inuke DSP setting needed to shape the response. An Inuke 3000DSP can drive up to 8 of these!!!!

 

Get the Drivers from here http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-pa460-8-18-pro-woofer

 

You can use precision ports or slot ports if you want to save some coin

D2H_1233-sm222.jpg.256e8689fa57f32b7c92c688755925fa.jpg

 

1244575102_ScreenShot02-20-20at03_05AM.thumb.PNG.583e658a6f60988c60f15eb8cfbfb157.PNG

 

vbss.jpg.058d70aa1101f2bc24b729293f83fd4d.jpg

 

1103089506_flex-1820frequency20response2015hz2020hz202031hz20outdoors.png.948e6a31c10c51402684be40b9945ea2.png

 

 

 

 

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how much will it cost op to build 2x 18" subs?

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22 minutes ago, AudioGeek said:

I did see this one & im not sure of the 18” would be an overkill I been dreaming about the Dayton UM15 only issue is the cost to get 2 out here in Perth but it’s definitely up there on top of my list.

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10 hours ago, jamiebosco said:

I would build a pair of VBSS (Value Buster Subwoofer System ) designed by Matt Grant from AVS forum and DIYSG

All the info is in this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2226642-v-b-s-s-diy-subwoofer-design-thread.html

 

Including Port tune options,cut list, and even the inuke DSP setting needed to shape the response. An Inuke 3000DSP can drive up to 8 of these!!!!

 

Get the Drivers from here http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-pa460-8-18-pro-woofer

 

You can use precision ports or slot ports if you want to save some coin

D2H_1233-sm222.jpg.256e8689fa57f32b7c92c688755925fa.jpg

 

1244575102_ScreenShot02-20-20at03_05AM.thumb.PNG.583e658a6f60988c60f15eb8cfbfb157.PNG

 

vbss.jpg.058d70aa1101f2bc24b729293f83fd4d.jpg

 

1103089506_flex-1820frequency20response2015hz2020hz202031hz20outdoors.png.948e6a31c10c51402684be40b9945ea2.png

 

 

 

 

That does look good man I’ll do some research but as I said not sure if the 18” will be a huge overkill for my small ass room.

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13 minutes ago, WayneG said:

That does look good man I’ll do some research but as I said not sure if the 18” will be a huge overkill for my small ass room.

Not really, just depends on how many watts you feed it!

I'd rather a large driver doing the job easily, than a smaller driver working hard at high Xmax & high distortion.

On the other hand, 2 smaller separate subs like 2 x 12" or 15" is better than one 18" when placed in separate corners of your room. More costly too.

So many options, so many choices. Good Luck!

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34 minutes ago, Mushroom01 said:

Not really, just depends on how many watts you feed it!

I'd rather a large driver doing the job easily, than a smaller driver working hard at high Xmax & high distortion.

On the other hand, 2 smaller separate subs like 2 x 12" or 15" is better than one 18" when placed in separate corners of your room. More costly too.

So many options, so many choices. Good Luck!

That was my original plan I really wanna do 2 ultimax 15” in my from corners that should get my room shaking 

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Generally in a room like that you have excessive midbass above ~35 Hz. This comes from strong room modes here and you are forced to have speakers, subs and listening position near boundaries. Even modest sealed subs will sound impressive in the midbass, where most of the action happens. Below ~35 Hz it's an uphill battle.

 

It's a good idea to first test all your potential positions. Ideally, lock in sub positions before you even look at sub designs.

 

Now consider this. Around 30 Hz, a 12" ported sub has about the same max SPL as a sealed 18" where both have about the same total box volume. Assuming all else is equal. Below 30 Hz, the ported sub has a 6 dB advantage and above the larger driver has a 6 dB advantage in max SPL. This applies fairly well if you are comparing similar drivers, like say the Dayton Reference range. In a small room, the 12 actually makes more sense. You can make it tall to achieve the volume, therefore taking up less floor space. And it also provides more output capability where you need it more in a home theatre.

 

Then again, sometimes it's not just about what "makes sense" logically. Sometimes you just want an 18!

 

Along with Ultimax, also consider Reference series, which is a bit more versatile. Ultimax have higher excursion and generally require large enclosures.

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12 minutes ago, Red Spade Audio said:

Generally in a room like that you have excessive midbass above ~35 Hz. This comes from strong room modes here and you are forced to have speakers, subs and listening position near boundaries. Even modest sealed subs will sound impressive in the midbass, where most of the action happens. Below ~35 Hz it's an uphill battle.

 

It's a good idea to first test all your potential positions. Ideally, lock in sub positions before you even look at sub designs.

 

Now consider this. Around 30 Hz, a 12" ported sub has about the same max SPL as a sealed 18" where both have about the same total box volume. Assuming all else is equal. Below 30 Hz, the ported sub has a 6 dB advantage and above the larger driver has a 6 dB advantage in max SPL. This applies fairly well if you are comparing similar drivers, like say the Dayton Reference range. In a small room, the 12 actually makes more sense. You can make it tall to achieve the volume, therefore taking up less floor space. And it also provides more output capability where you need it more in a home theatre.

 

Then again, sometimes it's not just about what "makes sense" logically. Sometimes you just want an 18!

 

Along with Ultimax, also consider Reference series, which is a bit more versatile. Ultimax have higher excursion and generally require large enclosures.

Ok mate noted so what do you think I should run your opinion means a lot mate 

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4 hours ago, WayneG said:

Ok mate noted so what do you think I should run your opinion means a lot mate 

Be careful asking Paul that...some Folded Horns may be in your future!

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2 hours ago, jamiebosco said:

Be careful asking Paul that...some Folded Horns may be in your future!

Haha easy boys I’m new to this game haha 

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8 hours ago, WayneG said:

Haha easy boys I’m new to this game haha 

We have a little saying around here:

"you mess with the Paul, you get the horns" 

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Hahaha hell not I’m building horns they look bad ass but sorry boys not today I work 7 days 10-11 hrs then go home to 2 boys I don’t even have time to drink beer these days 😫 haha I have heard some bloke here go on about the 12” alpines are they worth looking into? Plus what would be the ideal box size? Would a box suited for a car do?

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On 20/02/2020 at 3:15 AM, jamiebosco said:

I would build a pair of VBSS (Value Buster Subwoofer System ) designed by Matt Grant from AVS forum and DIYSG

All the info is in this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2226642-v-b-s-s-diy-subwoofer-design-thread.html

 

Including Port tune options,cut list, and even the inuke DSP setting needed to shape the response. An Inuke 3000DSP can drive up to 8 of these!!!!

 

Get the Drivers from here http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-pa460-8-18-pro-woofer

 

You can use precision ports or slot ports if you want to save some coin

D2H_1233-sm222.jpg.256e8689fa57f32b7c92c688755925fa.jpg

 

1244575102_ScreenShot02-20-20at03_05AM.thumb.PNG.583e658a6f60988c60f15eb8cfbfb157.PNG

 

vbss.jpg.058d70aa1101f2bc24b729293f83fd4d.jpg

 

1103089506_flex-1820frequency20response2015hz2020hz202031hz20outdoors.png.948e6a31c10c51402684be40b9945ea2.png

 

 

 

 

The Dayton driver is cheap in US, but not really cheap in Aus.

This got me thinking..........Is there another cheaper, improved driver performance option for the V.B.S.S 177L enclosure? I think i may have found one!

 

http://www.sbaudience.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/bianco-18sw450/

 

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/sb-audience-bianco-18-subwoofer-450w/sb-audience-range/sb-acoustics/speaker-drivers/audio-speakers-pa/bianco-18sw450-89880/1002173/pd/

 

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-036-dayton-audio-pa460-8-specifications-46885.pdf

 

Yes, Bianco has higher qts & only slightly higher vas. But has almost twice the Xmax of the Dayton driver, lower FS, Higher sensitivity and $100 per driver cheaper than the Dayton when purchased locally.

 

I modeled these 2 drivers and the Bianco performed better than the Dayton in 177L and same port tune options as the V.B.S.S enclosure.

Also, the Dayton run out of Xmax at 200w, where the Bianco handled 400w and still under Xmax. EQ boosting the low end will be safer with this driver!

I'd probably add another 4" port to the Bianco for a total of 3x4" ports. It moves more air and will suffer port compression problems when tuned 15-20hz.

 

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On 20/02/2020 at 3:13 PM, WayneG said:

Ok mate noted so what do you think I should run your opinion means a lot mate 

Ideally it's best to determine which positions with measurements and that informs the form factor you need.

 

There's many ways to approach this, but here's one idea that makes sense for dual HT subs in a small room. Let's say you're placing them in the front corners. Let's suppose your goals are:

  • reasonable enclosure size (<150L)
  • modest footprint (max 400x400)
  • extension to 20 Hz or lower
  • max SPL below 30 Hz (in a HT this really determines the max real world useful output)

These goals point towards a 12" ported design. Consider any of the Dayton 12" Reference series. 15" drivers require a larger footprint and a bigger overall footprint. Ultimax need larger enclosures. They tend to suit US style DIY subs - huge ported boxes tuned low in big rooms.

 

So as a starting point, you'd be looking at an enclosure that might be 400 x 400 x 1200, standing up in the corners. Ports then become fairly simple. A pair of 100mm PVC straight ports - about 1m each with no bends. This recipe would work well with Dayton Reference 12" (HF).

20 hours ago, jamiebosco said:

We have a little saying around here:

"you mess with the Paul, you get the horns" 

There's always that risk!

5 hours ago, WayneG said:

Hahaha hell not I’m building horns they look bad ass but sorry boys not today I work 7 days 10-11 hrs then go home to 2 boys I don’t even have time to drink beer these days 😫 haha I have heard some bloke here go on about the 12” alpines are they worth looking into? Plus what would be the ideal box size? Would a box suited for a car do?

Car audio drivers often work quite well for horns but they aren't typically my first choice for a HT sub. Lack of published TS parameters is one issue and often they are less than ideal for a HT sub anyway.

 

Keep in mind that if you use pro drivers with high sensitivity, they require very large enclosures to achieve good bass extension. Quite often twice the volume or more, so you start to move into the same volume you might use with a horn. It's not the first recipe that I'd consider for a small room.

 

When it comes to sub drivers and DIY sub projects, you really are spoilt for choice. Whatever you choose, keep in mind that it's actually other factors that make or break the final result - position, room acoustics and integration.

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My preference is sealed 15" (seem to be the best bang for buck) with a linkwitz transform tuned in room. 

 

Can have a small footprint and great output, enough for all but the very largest and loudest set ups. 

 

Martycube is great and if inwas building a ported sub then that would be my go to every single time. 

 

The above build im sure is good but I feel that the driver is way too expensive for what it is, also the enclosure is very big and I forsee WAF issues in your very near future 

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