Building rca switch, help sourcing parts?

[anewmission]

Planning to build another rca switch. I want to use really good quality parts to avoid colouration. 

I am planning a 4 pair input and 2 pair output. 

 

I think this switch should be great. 

https://www.partsconnexion.com/SWITCH-73306.html

 

I need some help sourcing high quality rca socket/terminals. And as far as wiring, I thought I should use the same belden cables as my rca cables that I have made? 

 

Also help finding a chassis. I would like it to be the same width as the rest of my gear so that it doesn't look out of place. But is longer cable runs going to be a problem? 

 

I have been looking at these chassis. 

https://www.evatco.com.au/1441-16bk3-black-steel-chassis

 

And then just a knob for the switch. 

[Guest Muon N']

Have a chat to Geoff at Auraelis Audio, he should be able to sort you out some quality RCA sockets, and he can supply a wide range of different quality cable/wire for hook up purposes.

 

Just inquire via email

https://www.aurealisaudio.com.au/

 

Edited January 4, 2020 by Muon N'

[Decky]

RCA switch??? You mean an input selector switch? Can you explain the background of the project and what are you trying to achieve? 

 

A relay driven input selector will be far better in this role and you can get them in a kit form or assembled from ebay for $10 or so. No need for expensive mechanical rotary switches since you will be introducing noise pickup and channel crosstalk by using long signal wires. Also ebay is your friend when it comes to cases. Some amazing quality out there. 

 

These guys are amazing https://www.ebay.com/str/along1986090/Enclosure-Case/_i.html?_storecat=2332698010

They will even custom drill holes and mill profile cut-outs for free if you ask them nicely. 

 

Options for input selector switches 

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=along1986090&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=input+selector+kit&_sacat=0  

[stereo coffee]

16 hours ago, anewmission said:

Planning to build another rca switch. I want to use really good quality parts to avoid colouration. 

I am planning a 4 pair input and 2 pair output. 

 

I think this switch should be great. 

https://www.partsconnexion.com/SWITCH-73306.html

 

I need some help sourcing high quality rca socket/terminals. And as far as wiring, I thought I should use the same belden cables as my rca cables that I have made? 

 

Also help finding a chassis. I would like it to be the same width as the rest of my gear so that it doesn't look out of place. But is longer cable runs going to be a problem? 

 

I have been looking at these chassis. 

https://www.evatco.com.au/1441-16bk3-black-steel-chassis

 

And then just a knob for the switch. 

You could also make such a switch contact-less, and avoid running lengths of wiring carrying audio signal to and from a switch.   

[audiofeline]

I used the Elma switch when I built an RCA switchbox.  I used Rean (aka Neutrik) RCA sockets on the back. 

 

Case:  I acquired some cases discarded by my work's IT department - (a fibre-optic computer network patchbay, a Console Manager Switch enclosure, other professional IT router type stuff) .  The cases can come in a 1U height, the width of hifi gear and with different depths.  Gut the interiors, fix an aluminuim panel on the back with holes cut into it for the RCA sockets.  I'd previously got a couple of hifi tuners from roadside collection and opshops that I was going to repurpose.

 

Knobs:  I think a "Chickenhead" design always looks good on audio equipment https://www.radioparts.com.au/images/ProductImages/23055501.jpg

 

1 hour ago, Decky said:

....No need for expensive mechanical rotary switches since you will be introducing noise pickup and channel crosstalk by using long signal wires....

 

Depends how the unit is designed.  If you have a large case and the switch mounted on the front, then there are long wires.  But it doesn't need to be this way...

 

I kept the wire length to a minimum in the one I made by getting a 1/4" aluminum rod from Bunnings, lenght was cut for the depth of the case, one end attached to the knob, the other end connected to a coupler attached to the rotary switch.  This enabled the switch to be mounted about 1" from the RCA sockets, therefore minimal cable depth. 

 

[andyr]

42 minutes ago, audiofeline said:

 

I used the Elma switch when I built an RCA switchbox.  I used Rean (aka Neutrik) RCA sockets on the back. 

 

Case:  I acquired some cases discarded by my work's IT department - (a fibre-optic computer network patchbay, a Console Manager Switch enclosure, other professional IT router type stuff) .  The cases can come in a 1U height, the width of hifi gear and with different depths.  Gut the interiors, fix an aluminuim panel on the back with holes cut into it for the RCA sockets.  I'd previously got a couple of hifi tuners from roadside collection and opshops that I was going to repurpose.

 

Knobs:  I think a "Chickenhead" design always looks good on audio equipment https://www.radioparts.com.au/images/ProductImages/23055501.jpg

 

Depends how the unit is designed.  If you have a large case and the switch mounted on the front, then there are long wires.  But it doesn't need to be this way...

 

I kept the wire length to a minimum in the one I made by getting a 1/4" aluminum rod from Bunnings, lenght was cut for the depth of the case, one end attached to the knob, the other end connected to a coupler attached to the rotary switch.  This enabled the switch to be mounted about 1" from the RCA sockets, therefore minimal cable depth. 

 

 

Still get better long-term contact performance from gas-filled, sealed relays like the NAIS DS4E-M-DC5V.

 

Andy

 

Edited January 5, 2020 by andyr

[Batty]

I am in the middle of something similar, The PCB has option for 6 inputs, I am only using 4 as that was the switch I had, alsp provision for a volume pot, but I just shorted that out.

So far....

[anewmission]

OK, I didn't even realize that these things existed. 

The reason for the build is to replace my current preamp as my power amp luckily has two nice volume stepped attenuators on it. 

And bypassing a pre will give me a much higher/less coloured signal. 

 

I was considering building something like the photo attached. 

But you all think it's better to use one of the kits you mentioned ?? 

 

 

 

 

[andyr]

15 minutes ago, anewmission said:

OK, I didn't even realize that these things existed. 

The reason for the build is to replace my current preamp as my power amp luckily has two nice volume stepped attenuators on it.

 

Then, yes, the volume control in your current preamp ... is superfluous! 

 

15 minutes ago, anewmission said:

And bypassing a pre will give me a much higher/less coloured signal. 

 

It will certainly give you a less coloured output signal than your preamp.  But as a preamp ... generally provides gain, using just the RCA source selector may deliver a lower signal to your power amp! 

 

15 minutes ago, anewmission said:

I was considering building something like the photo attached. 

But you all think it's better to use one of the kits you mentioned ?? 

 

 

 

That looks like a perfectly good unit.  The only thing extra I would do is provide an earth terminal on the back. between the 3 input sets of RCAs and the output set.  This earth terminal needs to directly connect with the case - it's purpose is to enable you to to earth the case (thus shielding the switch and the inside connections of the RCAs) - by connecting the earth terminal:

• either to the earth slot on a wall socket, using a mains plug
• or to the earth terminal on some other component in your system that has a 3-wire power cord (as its case will be connected to mains earth).

However, using sealed gas-filled relays instead of of a rotary switch - if you can get these kits - will give you a better long-term result.

 

Andy

 

 

[anewmission]

14 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

Then, yes, the volume control in your current preamp ... is superfluous! 

 

 

It will certainly give you a less coloured output signal than your preamp.  But as a preamp ... generally provides gain, using just the RCA source selector may deliver a lower signal to your power amp! 

 

 

That looks like a perfectly good unit.  The only thing extra I would do is provide an earth terminal on the back. between the 3 input sets of RCAs and the output set.  This earth terminal needs to directly connect with the case - it's purpose is to enable you to to earth the case (thus shielding the switch and the inside connections of the RCAs) - by connecting the earth terminal:

• either to the earth slot on a wall socket, using a mains plug
• or to the earth terminal on some other component in your system that has a 3-wire power cord (as its case will be connected to mains earth).

However, using sealed gas-filled relays instead of of a rotary switch - if you can get these kits - will give you a better long-term result.

 

Andy

 

 

That was just a photo I found of somebody's diy project. Not something I have built. 

Now I am very interested in these kits as a better long term result for less money sounds like the best option. 

 

As far as the gain, I occasionally plug my Dac directly into the power amp and also my phono pre aswell. I haven't noticed a drop in volume but I can not say for sure. 

The sound quality improves quite alot though! 

So having the switch to be able to switch between the Dac, phono pre, cd player (which I intend to use rca outputs) and one more future unit. That's the plan. I would love two sets of rca outputs being able to output at the same time, though this is not extremely important

[anewmission]

Would the rca inputs in these kits be good? 

 

I see all sorts of fancy ones on ebay eg. Rhodium plates ect. 

 

Maybe I should start a poll. 

Hand wired analog rca switch vs push button relay analog switch. 

[Guest Muon N']

Avoid plated brass RCA sockets if looking for quality, brass sucks as an electrical conductor.

[anewmission]

With these relay style rca selectors I have noticed they need ac12v inputs? 

Is that for the led's

 

I need someone to explain why a push button relay system would be better than a high quality rotary switch? 

 

I would have thought that 12v input would add noise. And the rca connectors do not look like audiophile grade ones that I have seen on ebay. 

 

 

[audiofeline]

The pic of the rotary switchbox above was the inspiration for the one I built.  I modified it by grounding the chassis to the -ve rca circuit, and by placing the switch as close to the rca sockets as possible by using an extension aluminum rod and a coupler to the switch (as I mentioned above).  Am making another now with an added mono switch (which is lacking on my preamp).  I used good quality rca sockets (Rean/Neutrick - not cheap and nasty, but not ultra-high priced like wbt's). 

 

I considered one of those relays (one came with the ir volume control I installed on my preamp).  The input could be selected via the remote control.  As it's installed in my preamp it takes the voltage from the amp's transformer, if this was not possible I would have considered putting a 12V socket on the back of the amp to connect to a wallwart.  I didn't proceed, because I didn't know the audio quality of the relay device.  I thought it would be less risky to go the old tech conservative way with a high quality Elma or Grayhill rotary switch. 

 

[anewmission]

This is such a good topic of debate. I am interested to hear others experience in this purpose. 

 

By using the analog rotary circuit I could always add volume later if I decide to change power amps. 

 

I understand the addition of adding the ground to the chassis. But as other have said, there could still be noise bleed from on channel to the next. 

 

I was hoping to build the switch in a 1rack unit size chassis. 

I actually have an old nad tuner that I could use, or just buy a new shmick one from ebay, having the runs so long are abit of a worry though. 

 

Which switch did you use audiofeline? 

[anewmission]

Can anyone else chime in? So the setup is pretty simple. 

Topping d50 dac/musical fidelity phono pre/Cambridge audios version of oppo udp105 > the "switch" via rca cables > yamaha p2200 power amp which has stepped attenuators. So the missing link at the moment is the switch. 

I make all my own rca, speaker cables and am pretty nifty like that so building something is not a problem. But which switch is best?? 

[anewmission]

So what would be the best conductor for rca sockets/connectors? Brass? Copper? Rhodium plated copper? Gold plated copper? Silver plated copper? Some kind of plated brass? 

[andyr]

7 hours ago, anewmission said:

So what would be the best conductor for rca sockets/connectors? Brass? Copper? Rhodium plated copper? Gold plated copper? Silver plated copper? Some kind of plated brass? 

 

Gold plated Cu.  But these are exxy! 

 

Andy

 

[anewmission]

On 13/01/2020 at 7:17 AM, andyr said:

 

Gold plated Cu.  But these are exxy! 

 

Andy

 

What does the cu stand for? Having trouble finding it? 

[A9X]

On 06/01/2020 at 2:26 PM, anewmission said:

I see all sorts of fancy ones on ebay eg. Rhodium plates ect. 

Just buy Neutriks.

 

On 06/01/2020 at 7:51 PM, anewmission said:

I would have thought that 12v input would add noise.

Won't make the slightest bit of difference as it's DC.

 

On 09/01/2020 at 9:44 PM, anewmission said:

yamaha p2200 power amp which has stepped attenuators.

Nope, they're just pots with indents. I own a couple.

 

On 06/01/2020 at 3:35 PM, Muon N' said:

Avoid plated brass RCA sockets if looking for quality, brass sucks as an electrical conductor.

At line level with effectively no current, it's going to make a difference, why?

[A9X]

13 minutes ago, anewmission said:

What does the cu stand for? Having trouble finding it? 

Cu = copper. They're not commonly used because Cu is soft compared to brass. Electrically brass is going to make zero difference compared to copper in this application, except the Cu parts are expensive.

[Guest Muon N']

4 hours ago, A9X said:

.

 

At line level with effectively no current, it's going to make a difference, why?

I aim to make you happy, so I need to inform you that I just rid myself of the last brass connectors in my system, and I just replaced the brass binding posts on the rear of my amp for the older ETI Trillium Copper Cable Pods

 

Does it make an audible difference in my system? yes it does!

 

I'll let you get back to ya' books and measuring gizmos

 

Edit: I'm a sucker for things like electrical properties in metallurgy, but some people think this branch of science is voodoo.

Edited January 14, 2020 by Muon N'

[RoHo]

On 09/01/2020 at 9:44 PM, anewmission said:

Can anyone else chime in? So the setup is pretty simple. 

Topping d50 dac/musical fidelity phono pre/Cambridge audios version of oppo udp105 > the "switch" via rca cables > yamaha p2200 power amp which has stepped attenuators. So the missing link at the moment is the switch. 

I make all my own rca, speaker cables and am pretty nifty like that so building something is not a problem. But which switch is best?? 

http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/seiden/seiden-switches-main.htm

I bought two of these years ago from DIY Hifi Supply and have recycled them through a number of projects.  Still good as new.

[anewmission]

54 minutes ago, RoHo said:

http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/seiden/seiden-switches-main.htm

I bought two of these years ago from DIY Hifi Supply and have recycled them through a number of projects.  Still good as new.

Pricey! Would these be better quality than the gold plated elma rotary in parts connexion?? 

[RoHo]

For the 2 pole, 6 position the price seems broadly similar and not excessive.   You would expect either to last a long, long time as opposed to an ebay cheapy which you just know will crap out on you after a few years.