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DAC advice. Integrating with a new TV


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Hi,

 

My current system is Musical Fidelity M3i integrated amp (2016?), Mission 753 (mid 90s i think) floor standers and I use Chromecast Audio (CCA) to stream Spotify.

I want to integrate a TV into the setup and as far as i cant tell new TVs don't have RCA output...so i'm looking for a DAC with TOSLINK / Digital Audio (optical).

 

My friend has a Cambridge Dacmagic+ and swears by it. Reading this forum the Topper D50 seems to be quite highly regarded. Also the latest version D50s has bluetooth so maybe I could use that rather than CCA for Spotify? I feel like this is a good time to upgrade the CCA, as the amp / speakers probably deserve a something better? 

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm pretty flexible with budget. Thanks

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Can't recommend highly enough and practically a whole forum on here. The S/PDIF version allows you to plug both coax and optical in at the same time.

 

https://www.gieseler.com.au/product-page/m16d-klein-dac-iii

 

I'm set up in lounge with ARC from TV to an Oppo (also using for bluray, HDs full of music etc) then coax to the Klein. Then Sonos Connect as a streamer via optical to the Klein for Spotify etc (never used the Sonos output analogue stages but don't like music out of their speakers.. ). Klein to Redgum amp to Lenehan ML1 Reference. Sonos Connect also allows me to integrate with Sonos in kids bedrooms and kitchen or transmit anything from the line out of the Redgum to every Sonos speaker (Redgum line out is plugged into the Connect RCA input). 

 

Downstairs runs a Gieseler Konverter DAC/Pre. Clays bigger DACs and the Konverter have both S/PDIF and USB etc. 

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1 hour ago, Farpun said:

What DAC with HDMI do you recommend?

There are a lot of them will do the work. But if you want a Hifi one then I’m not too sure. One I can think of is Oppo 203 or other model it has hdmi dac. 

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On 05/01/2020 at 6:29 AM, Farpun said:

I've done alot of research and currently use an oppo, thanks for sharing the link

Same here. Running two Oppos, one for lounge and other for man cave.

 

While the 205 is good and well reviewed, the Konverter running off the 205 coax showed it up after only 3 seconds into an album. A stock 205 loses a lot of detail and is harsh in comparison.

 

So good I bought a lower spec Oppo for upstairs and a Klein III to duplicate for a much lower budget ($650 for DAC, $200 Gumtree Oppo). 

Edited by DrSK
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16 hours ago, DrSK said:

Same here. Running two Oppos, one for lounge and other for man cave.

 

While the 205 is good and well reviewed, the Konverter running off the 205 coax showed it up after only 3 seconds into an album. A stock 205 loses a lot of detail and is harsh in comparison.

 

So good I bought a lower spec Oppo for upstairs and a Klein III to duplicate for a much lower budget ($650 for DAC, $200 Gumtree Oppo). 

That sounds like a great setup. Because I'm on a tight budget I currently use a 103 as a dac to my headamp for movies and I also use the hdmi in for my games consoles. It sounds great to my ears but I'm considering using a Topping D30 connected to my 103 or alternatively I have been considering connecting it to my TV. Not sure which setup to go with.

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1 hour ago, Farpun said:

That sounds like a great setup. Because I'm on a tight budget I currently use a 103 as a dac to my headamp for movies and I also use the hdmi in for my games consoles. It sounds great to my ears but I'm considering using a Topping D30 connected to my 103 or alternatively I have been considering connecting it to my TV. Not sure which setup to go with.

The Klein III off an Oppo is a killer, the 103 is a perfect front end for it. Audio quality of his current stuff gets compared with $8k+ DACs.

 

Differences are the Klein is more basic, either USB or S/PDIF input and need external streamer. I've gone the S/PDIF as it allows two inputs, optical and coax allowing me to connect both the Oppo and a streamer at the same time, manual switch between the two. 

 

Clay's DACs are insane value for audio quality. Heaps on his stuff in these forums. 

Edited by DrSK
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I'm using the topping d50. Yes I highly recommend it, I had the d50 which was stolen.. The d50 and d50s both have tiny led screens but the remote on the "s" helps alot if you plan on adding a pc in for USB at some point 

 

The strangest thing just happened.. I decided to run my topping d50s from a USB phone charger (a portable one) just to see if anything would change.... Ummm what the hell.. It sounds so so so much better than a wall charger? Can anyone explain this? 

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On 09/01/2020 at 10:54 PM, anewmission said:

The strangest thing just happened.. I decided to run my topping d50s from a USB phone charger (a portable one) just to see if anything would change.... Ummm what the hell.. It sounds so so so much better than a wall charger? Can anyone explain this? 


Instead of using a switching supply your now using a battery power supply. 
Although not as clean as it could be, it will induce less noise than a 5V phone charger. 
 

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3 hours ago, Mungbean66 said:


Instead of using a switching supply your now using a battery power supply. 
Although not as clean as it could be, it will induce less noise than a 5V phone charger. 
 

So it's better than a 5v phone charger but not as good as a linear power supply? 

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Just now, anewmission said:

So it's better than a 5v phone charger but not as good as a linear power supply

 
Depends on how it’s made and the how the voltage regulation is implemented. 

I’ve read stuff on DIYAudio about how some of them are ok but not as good as an actual battery supply or low noise linear supply.

Take that with a grain of salt though. I haven’t tested any of this.
 

Honestly if you noticed a difference then that’s all the proof you need. I wouldn’t worry about a low noise linear supply unless you can DIY one. A guy named PMillet has a lowish cost 5V USB DIY project on his site that looks interesting. I’ll probably try to make one of these eventually. 

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4 hours ago, Mungbean66 said:

 
Depends on how it’s made and the how the voltage regulation is implemented. 

I’ve read stuff on DIYAudio about how some of them are ok but not as good as an actual battery supply or low noise linear supply.

Take that with a grain of salt though. I haven’t tested any of this.
 

Honestly if you noticed a difference then that’s all the proof you need. I wouldn’t worry about a low noise linear supply unless you can DIY one. A guy named PMillet has a lowish cost 5V USB DIY project on his site that looks interesting. I’ll probably try to make one of these eventually. 

Looks interesting, how much do you think the diy option would cost? 

My Dac has an extra addon linear supply but it is $170 on amazon

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1 hour ago, anewmission said:

Looks interesting, how much do you think the diy option would cost? 

My Dac has an extra addon linear supply but it is $170 on amazon

I have a D50 myself so I know the PSU your referring to. DIY would be about $90-130 for parts and a case, if you can try and remove postage costs you could save money. Or if you have some of the parts already. 
 

You’ve also have to factor in tools if you don’t already own them. 
 

The problem then is that the linear PSU made for the topping stuff suits the DACs so it will look better and can be displayed with the gear. 
 

There are also much cheaper ways to make a linear supply. Our DIY section is really helpful and could probably point you in the right direction. 

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1 hour ago, Mungbean66 said:

I have a D50 myself so I know the PSU your referring to. DIY would be about $90-130 for parts and a case, if you can try and remove postage costs you could save money. Or if you have some of the parts already. 
 

You’ve also have to factor in tools if you don’t already own them. 
 

The problem then is that the linear PSU made for the topping stuff suits the DACs so it will look better and can be displayed with the gear. 
 

There are also much cheaper ways to make a linear supply. Our DIY section is really helpful and could probably point you in the right direction. 

i agree about it looking better,

however i googled the name you mentioned in your previous post and the psu looks like its a totally different level

the topping dac has one capacitor and looks very simple where as the diy ones have about 8 and look like very decent bits of kit.

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8 minutes ago, anewmission said:

i agree about it looking better,

however i googled the name you mentioned in your previous post and the psu looks like its a totally different level

the topping dac has one capacitor and looks very simple where as the diy ones have about 8 and look like very decent bits of kit.

Looks like you have your answer. Time to build a linear supply.

 

The DIY pages will be full of people that can help and might even be able to offer a better linear supply then the one I mentioned.  Also a wealth of knowledge when your building and unsure about something.

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On 29/12/2019 at 8:55 PM, NatashaSyd said:

Hi,

 

My current system is Musical Fidelity M3i integrated amp (2016?), Mission 753 (mid 90s i think) floor standers and I use Chromecast Audio (CCA) to stream Spotify.

I want to integrate a TV into the setup and as far as i cant tell new TVs don't have RCA output...so i'm looking for a DAC with TOSLINK / Digital Audio (optical).

 

My friend has a Cambridge Dacmagic+ and swears by it. Reading this forum the Topper D50 seems to be quite highly regarded. Also the latest version D50s has bluetooth so maybe I could use that rather than CCA for Spotify? I feel like this is a good time to upgrade the CCA, as the amp / speakers probably deserve a something better? 

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm pretty flexible with budget. Thanks

I use the D50- plays music as it is - neutral and quiet. Nothing warm or fuzzy about the sound.
The little toggle volume control is terrible and occasionally gets stuck. Optical on it sounds really good! I use apple TV to the DAC via a 10cm optical cable.

 



 

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