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April Snow

Ikea Kallax Storage

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The cabinet backing is cheap from Bunnings. You'd probably spend more on fuel running around on council collection days.

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Not a big deal to have the 4 x 2 on it's side. I have added a hard wood top, from Bunning's, to mine, after the original top got marked and damaged quite easily.

1084785777_DJ1.thumb.JPG.9502976723fa6ceb5783efe697bb1ad1.JPG

 

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Also have two 4 x 1 and one 4 x 5 plus a few IKEA cd towers. 

Keeping every thing tidy helps the collection to be more acceptable. 

 

You will also notice I gained control of all of the 4 x 2,  eventually 😊

 

IKEAIMG_20190613_062826.thumb.jpg.50df4fb2ed9c6d0e00379e1977c44faa.jpg

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56 minutes ago, EV Cali said:

Not a big deal to have the 4 x 2 on it's side. I have added a hard wood top, from Bunning's, to mine, after the original top got marked and damaged quite easily.

1084785777_DJ1.thumb.JPG.9502976723fa6ceb5783efe697bb1ad1.JPG

 

DSCN3293.thumb.JPG.02b8e1fb9e932328a90c9138d630bad1.JPG

 

 

Also have two 4 x 1 and one 4 x 5 plus a few IKEA cd towers. 

Keeping every thing tidy helps the collection to be more acceptable. 

 

You will also notice I gained control of all of the 4 x 2,  eventually 😊

 

IKEAIMG_20190613_062826.thumb.jpg.50df4fb2ed9c6d0e00379e1977c44faa.jpg

That wooden top looks really beautiful on there - I love that - I put legs on mine to make it look less like a cube too. 

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Not Kallax, but Flysta its smaller brother.

Looks like I got it right.

IMG_0057.thumb.JPG.6db4349f8d6f859a04a52f597be9a03c.JPG

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19 hours ago, andyr said:

 

You and me seem to be looking at different things when it comes to the 'strength' of a Kallax unit, twofires.

 

In your orientation whilst, yes, the whole unit is more stable on its side (as you have it) ... the only thing supporting the ends of the top of the frame ... are the 2 dowels at each end.  You put a 60kg amp on top (in place of your light TT) - like one other poster has done - and 2 dowels under such a heavy weight is not something I would care to risk.  Whereas if the top of the frame was resting on top of the sides of the frame - this would have structural strength.

 

Likewise, the weight of the LPs in each 'hole' is supported by 2 dowels at each end of each shelf - not a good idea, IMO.

 

Andy

If not using free standing ie away from walls just fixing a strong 3 or 5 ply plywood back (generously nailed/screwed) will greatly increase the overall rigidity and prevent catastrophic sideway fails!

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7 hours ago, twofires said:

With the shelves being white, you could use corflute. Relatively cheap, and easy to work with. 

 

3 hours ago, t_mike said:

The cabinet backing is cheap from Bunnings. You'd probably spend more on fuel running around on council collection days.

You guys vastly underestimate my tightness and readiness to pull over and throw anything I feel may be recyclable into the back of my van ;)
I know it's easily achieved in a trip to Bunnings with a relatively small outlay of cash but I'm one of those 'it's the journey not the destination' guys in most aspects of life. I don't want to taint my experience of cheap Ikea shelves by paying substantially more than the price of the units on some backing board and screws.. My latest idea is just an op-shop 50c sheet/quilt cover glued and nailed or stapled gunned onto the back of the shelves.

This thread has already given me lots of good ideas for the second unit, should I ever need it after filling this one. Really highlights the versatility and adaptability of these simple, cheap shelf units. Love looking at everyone elses vast collections and dreaming of one day having something equally as impressive. 👍👍

 

Edited by SkipEsquire

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I am no carpenter or cabinet maker, or, as a matter of fact I am not even really trade savvy, but, could we be over thinking/concerning ourselves with these shelving units. A bit?

A quick check on the Ikea site just now as I seem to have mine the incorrect way, but it got me thinking why I did it this way...I know i wanted x3 high and x4 wide but something woudl have prompted to purchase and set up in this manner.

 

...now my eye sight isn't perfect but I reckon the long shelf is running vertically in this example directly from the Ikea site. 

I have moved (pushed and dragged) mine along the wall loaded and got not even a creak from out of it.  With the lugs in each small shelf front and back as well as the coach bolts on the long shelf and the backing board I have (secured around the perimeter as well as each cross over point intersecting vertical/horizontal points I reckon mine is pretty safe.

 

You can never say never with anyything but I am pretty comfortable with mine and its stability.

kallax-shelving-unit-with-inserts-white__0619476_PE689112_S5.JPG

Edited by 08Boss302

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Kallax friendly hifi....

Technics  SL10

Phillips CD100

ATC CA2.

 

.

 

20200112_094751.jpg

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And the sturdier Ikea Expedit bolted to the wall for record storage , rock solid.

 

.

20200112_095701.jpg

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Hi All,

 

Recently received a Kallax as a Christmas Present and find the internal measurements are the same as the older Expedit, but the Expedit has thicker outside walls and they do not match up ☹️

 

Kallax.jpg.058a78612c376810766e87d165c181a3.jpg

 

JJ

Edited by Janjuc

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15 minutes ago, Janjuc said:

Hi All,

 

Recently received a Kallax as a Christmas Present and find the internal measurements are the same as the older Expedit, but the Expedit has thicker outside walls and they do not match up ☹️

 

Kallax.jpg.058a78612c376810766e87d165c181a3.jpg

 

JJ

That sucks, but at least it doesn't look too bad - as the slighter wider is at the bottom 🙂

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You need to make sure the horizontal shelves are the ones that run from side to side all the way across the shelving unit. If you do it the other way they can collapse sideways

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My wife suggested I use a Kallax for my stereo instead of my old set up. Took her suggestion and added a few L brackets.

 

The thing is tough, better then the solid furniture we own.
Plus they look quite good and don’t cost an arm and a leg. 

 

I also use a 2x4 for the Records. 

 

 

09BE1453-4D20-4DA3-95C4-474FC2BE8EED.jpeg

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What an excellent, informative and fun topic, which is very timely for me given that I have just cobbled together a fourth system that is Kallax-Fi in nature (including speakers). 

The speakers (Wharfedale Diamond 121s) were too large for my office shelf setup but go well in the Kallax system (downward firing ports, so that helps). My Rega Apollo-R CDP used to jump in my work system from vibrations but has operated perfectly  in the Kallax (on a different shelf level and maybe the joins assisting with decoupling). Newly acquired Rega Brio-R integrated amp pulls it all together. So some Rega can definitely be Kallax friendly hi-fi. 


Unfortunately my TT is not Kallax friendly, but this has turned out to be a silver lining because I have ordered a wall mount shelf and need to move the whole Kallax unit 12cm to the left, the perfect time to rotate the unit 90 degrees to correctly orientate the shelving (whew!).  I have the unit affixed to the back wall.  
 

It’s overflow vinyl storage from main listening room and work separated into new vinyl, old vinyl and vinyl without covers, each alphabetical.  

 

Thanks Tubularbells for the backstop idea, another item to purchase on my next Bunnings trip.

D55BB978-3EC6-465C-AB41-5B1B49961F8D.jpeg

E46AADF8-2CF3-44CF-B312-4A7E7CB3C094.jpeg

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Spent a very large part of Saturday with my Dad and son turning the Kallax 90 degrees, installing a wall mount TT shelf and a trip to Bunnings for all necessary supplies, including the 70 x 45 x 330 wood backstops (which my son painted).

 

Very happy with the result and now enjoying vinyl playback. Thanks to the OP and contributors as I feel much better about the shelving orientated this way and the back blocks making record storage easier and look better. 

BBB0F0B7-CF83-4203-A33B-94C983C85C75.jpeg

735489EF-0206-4A80-BFD6-2EEE3C0361DC.jpeg

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3 hours ago, KRSDarwin said:

Spent a very large part of Saturday with my Dad and son turning the Kallax 90 degrees, installing a wall mount TT shelf and a trip to Bunnings for all necessary supplies, including the 70 x 45 x 330 wood backstops (which my son painted).

 

Very happy with the result and now enjoying vinyl playback. Thanks to the OP and contributors as I feel much better about the shelving orientated this way and the back blocks making record storage easier and look better. 

 

 

Sweet family effort!

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On 09/12/2019 at 12:44 PM, Neurone said:

This is what can happen with the larger ones:

 

Collapse.jpg.0e2de436f279b93115f87e36d9451f87.jpg

Oh god!

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48 minutes ago, Jellyteq said:

Oh god!

That's what can happen with the larger ones that aren't put together properly the poster should really have said. I wouldn't fret it unless you're someone who can't understand basic instructions.

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On 22/01/2020 at 7:45 PM, Hergest said:

That's what can happen with the larger ones that aren't put together properly the poster should really have said. I wouldn't fret it unless you're someone who can't understand basic instructions.

All of my flat pack furniture gets compulsory wood glued for a sturdy construction. I think with those giant Kallax, some kind of corner bracing might be worth a thought.

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Ok so I am back revisting my own thread looking for some advice ..............

 

I have almost outgrown my first kallax "cube" so now looking at getting this one:

 

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/kallax-shelving-unit-white-20351884/

 

but I am wanting to lay it long ways like it is in the Ikea photo below (not upright) but you guys have said to use it long ways instead of upright means the strength is not there as the long shelf will not be running horizontal. Even though I see most people seem to lay this unit sideways and Ikea also have done so with records in it.

 

So should I get the lower shelves strengthened underneath with some brackets if I lay this on the side like the photo?

 

????

 

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, April Snow said:

So should I get the lower shelves strengthened underneath with some brackets if I lay this on the side like the photo?

Capture.JPG

It's probably unnecesary unless you are putting something very heavy in it.

The thick panels are torsion box construction (thin skin over frames and a honeycomb core), so it's hard to add anything to them except where internal blocks exist for the normal fasteners.

If it were me, I'd use multiple feet/pads under it, where each vertical comes down, so that you are supporting the load where it transfers to the bottom panel. Or you could use wood battens at each end and where the verticals come down to the bottom panel. Either of those methods would be good on a carpeted floor. If it's on a hard surface, wood , tiles, lino, or concrete, then felt/composite or similar furniture pads/feet would be the go, again where the ends and vertical panels come down to the bottom panel. Just to ensure the load is transferred well where the loading comes down to the bottom panel.

Edited by pwstereo

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34 minutes ago, April Snow said:

Ok so I am back revisting my own thread looking for some advice ..............

 

I have almost outgrown my first kallax "cube" so now looking at getting this one:

 

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/kallax-shelving-unit-white-20351884/

 

but I am wanting to lay it long ways like it is in the Ikea photo below (not upright) but you guys have said to use it long ways instead of upright means the strength is not there as the long shelf will not be running horizontal. Even though I see most people seem to lay this unit sideways and Ikea also have done so with records in it.

 

So should I get the lower shelves strengthened underneath with some brackets if I lay this on the side like the photo?

 

????

 

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

Max strength is standing.

You could add some uprights inside the lower ones to add strength.

I hesitate to say get the shopfitters to do anything since they couldn't get a simple cube right.

 

It's really the overloaded, wrongly oriented, 8x8 cubes that have trouble.

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22 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

It's probably unnecesary unless you are putting something very heavy in it.

The thick panels are torsion box construction (thin skin over frames and a honeycomb core), so it's hard to add anything to them except where internal blocks exist for the normal fasteners.

If it were me, I'd use multiple feet/pads under it, where each vertical comes down, so that you are supporting the load where it transfers to the bottom panel. Or you could use wood battens at each end and where the verticals come down to the bottom panel. Either of those methods would be good on a carpeted floor. If it's on a hard surface, wood , tiles, lino, or concrete, then felt/composite or similar furniture pads/feet would be the go, again where the ends and vertical panels come down to the bottom panel. Just to ensure the load is transferred well where the loading comes down to the bottom panel.

Thank you this information was very helpful as I was just speaking with the factory foreman at my work and we were wondering what the construction was of these and you have answered it "honeycomb" so brainstorming with him now, we have decided that I will buy another Kallax 4x4 as I have now (cube one) and I can put them together and we will put a timber top over them both to tie them together so I cannot see the join in the middle.......that way I do not have to worry about records collapsing on top of each other 🙂

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