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tesla13BMW

Fitting Tiger Paw Tranquillity to LP12

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Those who have fitted the Tiger Paw Tranquillity, did you have to adjust VTA.

 

I have fitted following the instructions and allowing the platter to settle into the bearing, but, the back of the arm is now scraping on the record where as it was not prior to fitting the tranquillity.  As such it must be repelling to the point that it is lifting the spindle clear of the thrust pad in the bearing????

 

Should I ignore and just reset VTA or does someone have another suggestion?

 

Cheers, Chris.

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I don't think I did have to reset VTA, Chris - maybe you have lifted the platter too high (as, if the spindle was still resting on the bearing thrust plate - but with only 10% of the weight without the Tranqu, which was the design aim - the platter wouldn't have lifted at all).  :(

 

Andy

 

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Those who have fitted the Tiger Paw Tranquillity, did you have to adjust VTA.
 
I have fitted following the instructions and allowing the platter to settle into the bearing, but, the back of the arm is now scraping on the record where as it was not prior to fitting the tranquillity.  As such it must be repelling to the point that it is lifting the spindle clear of the thrust pad in the bearing????
 
Should I ignore and just reset VTA or does someone have another suggestion?
 
Cheers, Chris.

Something’s wrong there Chris, the tranq should just take the load off the bearing not lift the platter, as Andy says.
If everything is level (sub-chassis vs plinth) and the bottom magnet collar is sitting snugly on top of the sub-chassis around the bearing housing, the platter shouldn’t lift. If it did the magnets would be scraping together.
Pete

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5 hours ago, tesla13BMW said:

Those who have fitted the Tiger Paw Tranquillity, did you have to adjust VTA.

 

I have fitted following the instructions and allowing the platter to settle into the bearing, but, the back of the arm is now scraping on the record where as it was not prior to fitting the tranquillity.  As such it must be repelling to the point that it is lifting the spindle clear of the thrust pad in the bearing????

 

Should I ignore and just reset VTA or does someone have another suggestion?

 

Cheers, Chris.

Hi Chris

An image might help us to see the issue. 

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I have attached an image with the two magnets installed.  The lower magnet is adjusted right up so the lock collar is just screwed on.

 

I also took some measurements.

 

From the magnet surface of the sub platter magnet to the tip of the spindle is 55.5mm

 

From the magnet in this position to the thrust pad is 58.7mm.

 

Therefore with the spindle fully inserted the magnets should be hitting by 3.2mm.

 

But they are not even close to touching each other.  I can only think the decreased effective weight of the platter assembly means it will take a long time for the air to escape from the pre cirkus bearing (I know I should have a cirkus bearing, but, I do have a mober bearing that I couldn't install due to the Valhalla board, but, will do whenever I receive my Number9 controller :-).

 

I have lowered the bottom magnet by 3.2mm and placed the platter assembly back on and will wait and see after a longer period of time if the two magnets are touching or at least very close. 

20190820_191345.jpg

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My bottom magnet seems to sit lower than yours.
Are you sure the magnet collar is not sitting on the bearing bolts instead of the sub-chassis?
IMG_2643.jpg

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Hi Peter

 

Yes the lower magnet is sitting down over the bearing bolts.  It looks high in this photo because I had it adjusted right up trying to achieve the scrape before realising how long the platter assembly was taking to settle.

 

It did settle down lower over night (after I brought the lower magnet down to where measurements said it should be), and I am in the process of raising the lower magnet until I get a "scrape" then will bring it back down one full turn.  Putting a few CD cases on the platter to speed up the process a bit.

 

Although a pain for doing this at least the slow settle of the platter assembly should suggest the pre cirkus bearing / spindle still has small clearances.

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That’s good Chris, I did find that one turn was waay too much, I backed mine off a tiny bit and I mean tiny. Another way to adjust it is to put a weight on the the platter, adjust it till it scrapes, then remove the weight. The closer the magnets are the better = more effect on the bearing.

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Thanks Peter. Now I'm a bit confused.

 

Is the thrust pad not solid in the bottom of the bearing housing?  If applying a little extra weight drops the platter the thrust pad must be maleable or the spindle is held off the thrust pad???

 

Am I missing some detail somewhere?

 

Cheers, Chris.

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Yes it’s solid, I am trialling a heavier tt mat at the moment and had to readjust the magnets. Just adjust it normally but in tiny tiny increments.

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Well I just don't know where my difference lies!

 

Thinking the bearing oil was stopping the platter assembly from lowering, I removed it.

 

Leaving a smear on the spindle and no magnets it lowers to the thrust pad.

 

If the magnets are in place the platter assembly floats.

 

The only way I can get the magnets to scrape is to place thin blocks under the lower magnet and force the platter assembly down to have them touch.  I then backed it off a quarter turn.

 

I have refilled the bearing with oil and refit the subplatter and platter.

 

Is there any issue with the spindle riding high in the bearing?  Other than having to adjust VTA of course.

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1 hour ago, tesla13BMW said:

Is there any issue with the spindle riding high in the bearing?  Other than having to adjust VTA of course.

 

 

I think that's a Qu you should ask Tiger Paw, Chris.

 

Andy

 

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OK..Chris 

What subchassis do you have..??

 

Tase

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Currently a Certech but do have a kore to fit, but have been waiting for my number9 spped controller to fit all at the same time.

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I'd be fitting the Kore quick smart Chris.....

Tranq was designed with Linn's subchassis in mind...

 

Tase.

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15 hours ago, Tasebass said:

I'd be fitting the Kore quick smart Chris.....

Tranq was designed with Linn's subchassis in mind...

 

Tase.

Thanks Tase

 

Would you venture to hypothesise what difference the subchassis may make given the tranquillity fits to the bearing housing?  I can only think that the carbon fibre / aluminium honeycomb is having some different interaction with the magnetic flux of the magnets than the linn subchassis, but the keel is all aluminium, early chassis steel.

 

I guess the other area could be that my platter assembly weighs less.....but, it is standard Linn parts. 

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I think the only difference the sub-chassis would make is the thickness of chassis around the bearing hole, which would alter the height of the bearing housing in relation to the tranq. But as there’s plenty of adjustment that shouldn’t be a problem.
I’m with Tase, fit the kore now, you can swap the motor later without affecting the suspension.
Or shoot Roger an email with some pics, he responds pretty quickly.
Pete

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8 hours ago, tesla13BMW said:

Thanks Tase

 

Would you venture to hypothesise what difference the subchassis may make given the tranquillity fits to the bearing housing?  I can only think that the carbon fibre / aluminium honeycomb is having some different interaction with the magnetic flux of the magnets than the linn subchassis, but the keel is all aluminium, early chassis steel.

 

I guess the other area could be that my platter assembly weighs less.....but, it is standard Linn parts. 

I've never clapped eyes on a cetech subchassis so cant/wont comment...

I've fitted 2 Tranqs onto a Mober bearing affair and Cirkus bearing ...both subs were/are Linn's Keel and I have had no issues at all save the Mober where the inner platter raises up quite a bit but when the outer platter is fitted all is good...

I'd advice stripping your deck down looking at the Kore/Cetech dimensions and geometry to spot any differences then fit the Kore...as Pete said you can fit the motor later..

 

All the best

Tase.

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One Keel subchassis with Cirkus bearing....IMG_0518.jpg.be5b7bf04d6bb06bead6ff570e975125.jpg

 

Tranq slides over bearing as shown..IMG_0524.jpg.f90ae929fef4324484dd1cd07d7dae50.jpg

 

Make sure the 3 cut outs on the Tranq's collar line up with the 3 screws that mount the bearing to the Keel/Kore..IMG_0523.jpg.91ced2fd3a60636a14224f149cd0355f.jpg

 

Push down until the Tranq's collar is mounting flush with the Keel/Kore..IMG_0522.jpg.0e33e63bede112929c6db30485742b9a.jpgIMG_0521.jpg.f67bb4e2afce60782a96e7db1cbd6559.jpg...not mounted properly as the collar is riding high as shown..

 

Hope this Helps Chris...you can now adjust the height by turning the Tranq's base accordingly.. 

 

Tase

Edited by Tasebass

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So I pulled the table down and investigated the cetech sub chassis.  Once the chassis was out from the plinth and the platter turned upside down it could be seen there was no issue with the tranquillity on the cetech (although not adjusted correctly in the photo).20190824_112952.thumb.jpg.8488099454a02b8aae23d111058b2247.jpg

 

Those not familair with the cetech it is  a carbon fibre aluminium honeyfomb construction.

 

20190824_110204.thumb.jpg.c26a334c4680f9a7f6f0e8c9056d9e21.jpg

 

The issue was that the spindle would not always sink down into the bearing.  It is as though it gets an air lock and wont let the air escape from the bearing.

However, with the chassis still out of the plinth I installed the bearing onto the kore and was able to ensure the spindle sank into the bearing and was able to set the tranquillity magnets to a clearance of 0.2mm.

 

I reassembled the table, which the kore made a breeze with the fixed arm position relative to the spindle, no more using the kinky!

 

I also fitted  the Linn Akiva which with the 3 point mounting made for instant alignment.

It is impossible to attribute the resultant change to any one item, but, I was not going to fit each item piece wise to find out.

 

The noise floor has dropped, the depth of sound stage has grown front to back and everything just seems to be more precise and clear/less muddled.  So I'm very happy with the improvement in sound.

 

I will need to consider the bearing, either buy a new Cirkus bearing or fit the mober and mober cross brace.  My reluctance of fitting the mober is that is had sat a while from when I brought it and was full of what looked like dried up oil which had gone to thin flakes.  Although I've cleaned it out it is still a concern.  Once I've decided what to do with the bearing I will also fit the mober subplatter and that will be mostly it for the LP12 until the Number9 speed controller and 24V AC motor get delivered (fingers crossed this year!).  At this point the plinth will get corner bracing and the 5 stud top plate fitted.

 

So S/N 52121 is now Lingo 2, kore, tranquillity, Linn T kable, with Ekos mk1 and Akiva.  All the replaced bits including the original spot welded subchassis will be going to build an original early 80's spec table.  Although it is S/N 31687 it will be Nirvana and Valhalla with the Ittok LVII fitted with Asak.

 

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. 

 

 

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Nice work Chris [emoji1303]
I found the same improvement in sound quality when I installed my tranquility
Some pics of the tt would be good [emoji4]

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Well here is a turntable photo.  Missing subplatter and crossbrace which will come from the upgrading deck.

 

20190827_133015.thumb.jpg.5789b0c60501185aa2de5759365fbaf4.jpg

 

Here is the setup - hotrodded Union Jack RP1 on the right.  For perspective that is a 75" TV. 

 

20190827_133231.thumb.jpg.b7912cb237d051773d4ce13ab2a4fd25.jpg

 

And here is the LP12.  The mat is a Hide in the sound.  To the right you see DIY SUT with selectable x40, x20 and x10.  To the left you'll see a glimpse of a pair of Quad II's for the left hand speaker stack. 

 

20190827_133333.thumb.jpg.7bf374cdc5cbac909e32869367e24b92.jpg

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Standard top plates Chris..??

 

Tase

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Yes. But do have a corner stud top plate to fit.

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