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Looks great, happy watching.

Where did you get the binary mdf from. Looks the goods

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Looks great, happy watching. 

Where did you get the binary mdf from. Looks the goods

 

I got it from Bunnings........., MDF, Drill, Paint, etc.[emoji12] 

The panels are DIY and based upon the RPG binary pattern. If you google it, you will find some examples. Gearslutz has a lot of info as well.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=rpg+binary+pattern&client=firefox-b-m&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi-rem6qLPkAhW58HMBHaYoBWgQ_AUIBigB&biw=360&bih=560

 

 

They are very good in controlling reflections and decay time.

 

They start to be effective around 800Hz, and are fully effective from 1kHz and upwards.

 

There are different variations on the market like the wavewood (slats), and the artisan panels.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Primare Knob said:

I got it from Bunnings........., MDF, Drill, Paint, etc.emoji12.png 

The panels are DIY and based upon the RPG binary pattern. If you google it, you will find some examples. Gearslutz has a lot of info as well.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=rpg+binary+pattern&client=firefox-b-m&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi-rem6qLPkAhW58HMBHaYoBWgQ_AUIBigB&biw=360&bih=560

 

 

They are very good in controlling reflections and decay time.

 

They start to be effective around 800Hz, and are fully effective from 1kHz and upwards.

 

There are different variations on the market like the wavewood (slats), and the artisan panels.

 

 

 

Great effort that’s a lot of holes to drill, thought a CNC router would have been used.

 

again looks awesome! 👍🏼

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Great effort that’s a lot of holes to drill, thought a CNC router would have been used.

 

again looks awesome! [emoji1360]

I don't have the setup for that and looked into using a hand held router, but I don't think that they are meant for drilling, and it can be a bit harder to find center looking from above.

 

CNC would have given a nicer cut out and a cleaner pattern, but if you need to pay an external party, there is a big chance, it will work out the same as buying the panels in store. I never got a quote back for them, but I got a quote for the ceiling strips, which came down to $1100, for cutting and supply.

 

As I favoured speed, I drilled up to 8 X 6mdf panels with a hand drill, but doing this by hand will never guarantee a straight angle. This is fine for the first 2 panels, up to 4 is still fine, but more than 4 and you will start to clearly see the offset created by a non straight drill angle.

 

You could make a guide panel, but it would need to be 25mm thick or more, and made out of hard wood, and pre drilled with straight angles, and then you're back where you started.

 

The good thing is, that there are so many holes that you don't notice the offset to much, but by paying a bit of attention you can definitely pick them out.

 

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1 minute ago, Primare Knob said:

I don't have the setup for that and looked into using a hand held router, but I don't think that they are meant for drilling, and it can be a bit harder to find center looking from above.

CNC would have given a nicer cut out and a cleaner pattern, but if you need to pay an external party, there is a big chance, it will work out the same as buying the panels in store. I never got a quote back for them, but I got a quote for the ceiling strips, which came down to $1100, for cutting and supply.

As I favoured speed, I drilled up to 8 X 6mdf panels with a hand drill, but doing this by hand will never guarantee a straight angle. This is fine for the first 2 panels, up to 4 is still fine, but more than 4 and you will start to clearly see the offset created by a non straight drill angle.

You could make a guide panel, but it would need to be 25mm thick or more, and made out of hard wood, and pre drilled with straight angles, and then you're back where you started.

The good thing is, that there are so many holes that you don't notice the offset to much, but by paying a bit of attention and you can definitely pick them out.

Great going and agree outsourcing the CNC router work may have defeated the purpose unless you know a guy.

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Looks great!! can you expand a bit more on whats behind the front wall or a picture before you added diffuser panels. I read your description 3 times and am still not clear on it:blush:

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Looks great!! can you expand a bit more on whats behind the front wall or a picture before you added diffuser panels. I read your description 3 times and am still not clear on it:blush:

The red lines are a timber frame that is resting on the floor, and locked into place by screwing into the skirting boards, and the ceiling timber joist.

 

The empty spaces are filled up with a high density black polymer insulation sheets (50mm thick), which is stiff enough to keep itself up by just squeezing it in.

 

They are then covered with 6mm MDF panel sheets with the RPG dot pattern, screwed into the timber frame.

 

I did something similar to the ceiling, I jammed sheets of insulation, inbetween the ceiling timber joists, and covered it with slats, that I pre made into 8 panels to make life easier.sketch-1567505827122.jpeg.6d859a5ef6fde12897879e7c39888314.jpegsketch-1567505818933.jpeg.476b5ebe9dde8df16aa6a923be33de2f.jpegtapatalk_1567504025143.jpeg.f2d5434dfc4ea2364cc69641cc94211f.jpegtapatalk_1567504019341.jpeg.c8dd0d117ef75e12c1db3d08465e400e.jpeg

 

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Ok, I think get it. one last dumb question , so its 50mm maximum thickness or multiple layers?

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Ok, I think get it. one last dumb question , so its 50mm maximum thickness or multiple layers?
You can go thicker, but it doesn't really help much. You also have to be careful with going to thick, as it can become counter productive.

I have filled up the empty space in the corners with low density insulation, as this showed better results in measurements, compared to 100mm high density.

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1 minute ago, Primare Knob said:

You can go thicker, but it doesn't really help much. You also have to be careful with going to thick, as it can become counter productive.

I have filled up the empty space in the corners with low density insulation, as this showed better results in measurements, compared to 100mm high density.

Ok, interesting! dont have the measurements handy do you?

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Nice site, Will have to have a look at the other calculators. 

 

I can see you get higher absorption at certain frequencies with the 50mm but you also will have to deal with the troughs and on average there is slightly less absorption.  . In reality its hard to know what works better unless you try both options and measure (and listen) because you cant put all the details of your room in a calculator. Hmm has made me think about my absorption panels though.....

 

Congrats on a great looking (and I'm sure) sounding room!! and thanks for making me think about this.

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Nice site, Will have to have a look at the other calculators. 
 
I can see you get higher absorption at certain frequencies with the 50mm but you also will have to deal with the troughs and on average there is slightly less absorption.  . In reality its hard to know what works better unless you try both options and measure (and listen) because you cant put all the details of your room in a calculator. Hmm has made me think about my absorption panels though.....
 
Congrats on a great looking (and I'm sure) sounding room!! and thanks for making me think about this.
The calculator is using a 0 degree incidence, which isn't accurate in real life. If you switch to a random incidence, you'll see the throughs disappear. Theory and real live often don't add up, so only take this a guideline.

You can see that the throughs happen at every "half length frequency" step of the distance you choose from the wall. Roughly every 340Hz interval with settings of 500mm, which is the half way length of 680Hz aka 500mm.

The front corner of the room has HD(48kg/m3) insulation and LD insulation, and in between (screen and equipment space) there is only 50mm MD (32kg/m3).

I not only covered the front but also the sides and the height with 50mm HD and MD insulation at various distance from the side wall, floor and ceiling.
All absorber start working at frequency X, which is half the frequency of the wavelength related to the distance between wall and absorber.

You have to be carefully in your expectations and reading your measurements. The 500mm distance in my case doesn't do anything for the SPL response below 100Hz, where you need it the most, but the effect does show up in the decay rate and RT60 graphs. Sometimes it also has effect on the group delay if it happens to cure a SBIR effect.

I have mostly used the graphs dealing with decay and group delay regarding treatment. The SPL graph is good for digital EQ, and finding out which effect belongs to which problem.

But I still have lots to learn on measurements myself.

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