expat Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Came home a week or so ago, sat down and looked across at the TTs. Thought, something looks off. Used to the cleaners (I think) knocking the wand off the pivot/bearing but this was different. Very sad looking stub end of the arm. Now not sure who could repair this now Duc is sadly no longer with us. Any ideas? If no one can repair it, I will have to consider a new arm. On a SP10 mk2 with custom birch ply plinth set up for upto 12" arms. The Uni is a 12" arm but have a spare uncut arm board so any length okay. Originally decided on the univector and loved it. The SP10/Uni destroyed my LP12/Ekos/Klyde with Lingo1. Considering one of the Wand arms - ?Plus or Master which was also on my original list. Also on list are the usual suspects of Morch, SME, Scheu with higher up the food chain Reed, Schroeder, Graham and Tri-Planar. Not sure the SP10 warrants the more rarified arms. Anyone with experience of other arms for the SP10, your thoughts much appreciated. Not really interested in old/classic SME-type arms. Thanks for any replies. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweaky Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 That just looks like Glue/sealant failure from the angle of the photos, and buy the look of the dust build up, it would seem it has happened many months ago......well that's unless you have your TT sited close to a clothes drier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanArn Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) I am not familiar with the Univector arm and like Tweaky indicates, it does not look as if it has suffered any major physical damage. The counterweight stub arm is most likely held into the bearing cup by a rubber bush and this is most likely fitted under pressure. Perhaps the rubber bush has softened or shrunk and needs replacing. Anyone who services turntables should be able to repair this arm. Edited April 20, 2019 by VanArn addition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 34 minutes ago, Tweaky said: well that's unless you have your TT sited close to a clothes drier Sited under an air conditioner actually. 14 minutes ago, VanArn said: Anyone who services turntables should be able to repair this arm. That would be great. I'm in Sydney but not sure Harry at Audio Genesis or LWA could do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 Just now, expat said: 36 minutes ago, Tweaky said: well that's unless you have your TT sited close to a clothes drier Sited under an air conditioner actually. Probably need a dust cover fabricated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyr Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, expat said: Sited under an air conditioner actually. That would be great. I'm in Sydney but not sure Harry at Audio Genesis or LWA could do this? Major tragedy, expat!! (I have a 12" Univector. ) But I would think Harry's tech may be able to assist. If they can't and you need a new 12" arm - I would suggest try the Audio Origami 12". I'm pretty sure it comes in a UP form, at 12" - certainly, the "normal" version has a 12" option. This would cost you significantly less than the "higher-up-the-food-chain" arms you mentioned. 1 hour ago, expat said: Probably need a dust cover fabricated You certainly do! Andy Edited April 20, 2019 by andyr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 16 minutes ago, andyr said: If they can't and you need a new 12" arm - I would suggest try the Audio Origami 12". I'm pretty sure it comes in a UP form, at 12" - certainly, the "normal" version has a 12" option. Is that the PU 7? They/he had a unipivot based loosely on the ARO but it seems to have gone from the website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyr Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 38 minutes ago, expat said: Is that the PU 7? They/he had a unipivot based loosely on the ARO but it seems to have gone from the website. Yes, the PU7. Contact the UK guy directly, to see whether he can still provide one. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batty Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 AO no longer make the unipivot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PKay Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) 14 hours ago, expat said: Is that the PU 7? They/he had a unipivot based loosely on the ARO but it seems to have gone from the website. Contact the Australian Rep Mendo. He had one uni pivot left when I spoke to him. @MrRogers Edited April 20, 2019 by PKay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tasebass Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 17 hours ago, expat said: Came home a week or so ago, sat down and looked across at the TTs. Thought, something looks off. Used to the cleaners (I think) knocking the wand off the pivot/bearing but this was different. Very sad looking stub end of the arm. Now not sure who could repair this now Duc is sadly no longer with us. Any ideas? Can't see why a competent engineering firm could not reinsert the counterweight stub back into the pivot cup imo... I'd be more concerned about damage to the Sapphire bearing and SS pivot point as shown...looks like some force was applied to bend the stub this needs to be checked out... Good Luck hope you get the repair done.. Tase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 36 minutes ago, PKay said: Contact the Australian Rep Mendo. He had one uni pivot left when I spoke to him. @MrRogers I think Mendo has reached out to be after seeing the thread already (thanks) but I probably need to see if the Univector can be repaired first before wasting people's time unnecessarily. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyr Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) 19 hours ago, expat said: Just a few points re. the way you had the c'weight positioned in the above pic. If you want the arm to be set up optimally, then: 1. The knurled knob on the back of the c'weight should be at the bottom of the c'weight - not the top. You can see that the c'weight itself is set lower than the arm wand - this is so that the c.o.g. of the c'weight is as low as possible. When the knurled knob is on the bottom of the c'weight, the c.o.g. of the combination is lower than when the knurled knob is on the top. 2. This knurled knob performs 2 functions: screwing it in and out allows you fine control of the tracking force - after you've got this approximately set by sliding the c'weight towards/away from the pivot (and screwed in that grub-screw, to fix it in position). looking at the knob from above ... if it is dead in the centre of the c'weight then it has no effect on azimuth. If it is to the LHS ... it will tilt the arm - and the cart! - towards the left; if it is to the RHS ... it will tilt the cart to the right. The more to the left or right it is ... the more tilt it exerts. 3. The closer the c'weight is to the bearing housing, the better the arm sounds. You are using a heavier-than-ideal cart for the weight of your c'weight - in contrast, my own c'weight is right at the (inner!) end of the stub. (Duc made 2 different-thickness c'weights for me - which allows for a lot of flexibility in placement.) Can you make your c'weight heavier? Ideally, you get someone to machine you a secondary weight disc - maybe only 6mm thick - which you put on the stub in front of the main c'weight. Or use some suitably sized steel washers on the stub (and blue-tac them to the main c'weight). Andy Edited April 21, 2019 by andyr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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