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Paul Spencer

DIY audio: what are you building?

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Something I may not have said about this new Tripath Class D amp is it had a mechanical buzz (no hum through the speakers but a mechanical buzz from the massive potted Tranni). The secondary info which came with the RS Tranni was poor but once I got on their site and got better info I realised I’d wired the Tranni secondaries in parallel and not as two seperate secondaries. 

 

Got an an early start this morning and rewired the Tranni (easy job). Now the amp gets a full 66VAC and the buzz has gone. And where the bass was excellent last night it is even deeper and more powerful now the amp is getting full power. 

 

How simple, 180W Tripath Class D amp module and Tranni. I have one other module. I’ll do the same, no more DC PSs driving the modules. Just big trannies. 

Edited by mwhouston

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Another low current step up PS for a tube phono stage. Converts a 24VAC wall wart to 200VDC and 12VDC. Cheap and simple. Dead quiet too. 

D6C13DDF-CB8D-4505-B01B-83399AAEC109.jpeg

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On 22/02/2019 at 9:25 AM, mwhouston said:

Something I may not have said about this new Tripath Class D amp is it had a mechanical buzz (no hum through the speakers but a mechanical buzz from the massive potted Tranni). The secondary info which came with the RS Tranni was poor but once I got on their site and got better info I realised I’d wired the Tranni secondaries in parallel and not as two seperate secondaries. 

 

Got an an early start this morning and rewired the Tranni (easy job). Now the amp gets a full 66VAC and the buzz has gone. And where the bass was excellent last night it is even deeper and more powerful now the amp is getting full power. 

 

How simple, 180W Tripath Class D amp module and Tranni. I have one other module. I’ll do the same, no more DC PSs driving the modules. Just big trannies. 

How does the sound compare to the T1, T2 and T3 boards?

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I thought my T3 monoblocks the best but now not so sure. I haven’t done an AB but do have a second pair if ears coming tomorrow to help with a comparison. 

 

Im certainly extremely pleased with the final result and intend to build another while upgrading some parts on the T4 brd. This one is up for sale for $500. Hopefully I can get the next finished before this one goes. It hasn’t been out if my system since completion. The T4s seem to have some inner warmth but also I use a DIY 6SN7 tube preamp. The preamp is stripped of most of its second harmonic so very little warmth from here. 

 

So cheap and dead easy to make. You should try one. Tranni and brd. That’s it.

Edited by mwhouston

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Must give my T3S board another try RT. I used it first of all with a trafo and 40kuf of Nichicon FG and it sounded ok. Replaced the Linear psu with a 600w Connexelectronix smps and bass was better but top not so good ,which was fine as it was driving 2 subs. The main problem I had was that no matter the psu there was some strange phasey thing going on in the top end. Great bass , sweet mids but a somewhat disconnected top end.

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Look what arrived in the post. Put on the iron and it looks like a tube phono preamp. Mine got sold so how timely this arrived. The PS is complete (posted earlier)  and now the brd. assembled. 

 

These premium Radi0kit phono preamps are excellent. This one has all high end parts; Wima, Nichicon, Cornell, JJ 12AX7s, ceramic tube sockets, dales, vishays.....

633CCE0B-A747-4A9B-A9E4-F99AA35E1DF8.jpeg

69EE2403-B3C9-4590-B549-5A333A6AA495.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

This is the rear panel of my Mesmerize B1 pre, now you can all see why I bought the pre-drilled and tapped case for the M2X. :)

 

Red and black are inputs and red and white are the outputs, 1 set to the M2X and the other to the WHAMMY headphone amp.

 

Question, do I just parallel off the 2nd output or do I put some resistance between them?  Pre is unity gain.

 

DSC_0183.thumb.JPG.7eab110955bc9578ea733249d3a8df90.JPG

Edited by Batty

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You can just parallel outputs if you want.

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Thanks

 

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Posted (edited)

If anyone thinks DIY is all solder and flux they’re very wrong. Spent more hours on the end of a drill press and hand drill to make even more holes.

 

It was worth it though these Radi0kit RIAA tube phono kits are really excellent and jammed full of high end parts. All finished now and worked perfect at switch on. A 24VAC 1A provides the power for the PS witch produces 260VDC and 12.6VDC for the preamp Brd. All linear PS with no noisy regs. Dead quiet. Swapped the provided JJ 12AX7s for my premium Psvane 12AU7 “T” series MKIIs. Less gain and works better with my 6SN7 preamp. 

 

Tomorrow will be a big vinyl day. 

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7E9181D6-40BD-4D11-ACE8-51A92710859C.jpeg

Edited by mwhouston

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Some of the problems with furniture grade speaker cabinets that you have either spent time and money on building them get water damaged by overfilled pot plants placed on top of the cabinets.
The other is when they get carried away, grow, drape over and cover up the super tweeter or the horn with foliage.
No offence to plants in general. I like their timber for cabinets and probably would not use anything else.
I suppose that some plants appreciate good quality sound systems so they too are deserving of such a treat.
You just have to keep an eye on them though.
Remember the Triffids!
 
Back to completing the Hiraga crossovers.
 
Still testing/tweaking before final assembly and hopefully done before they get sucked up by a vacuum cleaner. Work in progress.
IMG_0637.thumb.JPG.44750543fc9a30068b7d7a64f475131e.JPG
 

That’s why I am building 5 way active speakers out of GFRC

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, mwhouston said:

If anyone thinks DIY is all solder and flux they’re very wrong. Spent more hours on the end of a drill press and hand drill to make even more holes.

 

It was worth it though these Radi0kit RIAA tube phono kits are really excellent and jammed full of high end parts. All finished now and worked perfect at switch on. A 24VAC 1A provides the power for the PS witch produces 260VDC and 12.6VDC for the preamp Brd. All linear PS with no noisy regs. Dead quiet. Swapped the provided JJ 12AX7s for my premium Psvane 12AU7 “T” series MKIIs. Less gain and works better with my 6SN7 preamp. 

 

Tomorrow will be a big vinyl day. 

C91604B5-BA66-4772-BD3C-6FE1BE92698E.jpeg

3D8E598C-145B-4308-8710-3C325028D6FB.jpeg

7E9181D6-40BD-4D11-ACE8-51A92710859C.jpeg

I was thinking on calling it “Peepatube” like Pikachu. You can just see the tubes peeping out. But it is going to get “retro-RK318” after the kit identification number. 

Edited by mwhouston

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6 hours ago, explorer2203 said:


That’s why I am building 5 way active speakers out of GFRC

Not sure what GFRC is so I googled it and up came Georges River Football Club.😏

 

However I am curious as to what you propose to cover the GRFC with and to perhaps give it a decent WAF?

 

Never the less please post some pictures, time permitting, of the cabinets including the amplifier line up you plan to use to get 9 or 10 channels with.

I like to see what I may be missing out on.

 

I had tried active crossovers at first with my 2 way line up with okay results but for now the Hiraga passive crossover network works a treat.
Yes, I know, the finished article again, looks the same but now it's sounding even better, it must be the Russian PIO that seems to be getting better with age perhaps.

 

IMG_0713.thumb.jpg.d31c3ce70451249c83873579feaf4788.jpg

 

No more mess on the floor of the tribal listening room and totally out of sight behind the Onkens.😎 

Note: the timber panel on the crossover board is a foot so it can stand upright with the terminals at the top for easier wiring access.

 

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There’s more parts in you Xover than I have in my SE tube amps!

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These FailtalPro horns arrived today to go with my spare FailtalPro compression drivers.

 

Though cast have a lively light feel. I have some poly 10” woofers to put them with.  

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55302BF7-BA2D-4FB7-9490-F59EC3A11912.jpeg

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