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DIY audio: what are you building?

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I bought a packet of assorted holes from Mitre 10 but runs out of the larger ones. I’ll get another pack tomorrow and puts some more on. 

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1 hour ago, mwhouston said:

I bought a packet of assorted holes from Mitre 10 but runs out of the larger ones. I’ll get another pack tomorrow and puts some more on. 

 

would benefit from holes in the side of the case above the board, because convective cooling would pull more air in from the side(s) to passively rise out of the case, than would fit past the "block" provided by the motherboard

 

along the edge as shown by the red arrows

 

plan b would be to macguyver a bigger 'sink over the cpu - what's holding in on ? because a touch of epoxy with arctic silver paste will be more efficient, and as it looks like you have height to spare, simply increasing the height of the fins could almost double your radiant area

 

so, the gold one was recovered from a very old video card, and is 1.5" square by 9/16" high (imperialist measure) - council pickup was my source, but

 

if you really want to go bunta, zalman made awesome and beautiful passive sinks for northbridge coolers on motherboards back in the day, but these guys are seriously tall, although the base of the beautiful pale blue fan is smaller than the gold one

 

cheap and easy sources (slow delivery)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998838853.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950514537.html

 

copper is more efficient than aluminium; this seems perfect

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000110224085.html

 

but you'll need either thermal tape or an adhesive :

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/4712/sekisui-5760-thermal-tape  - a wise choice

https://www.computeronline.com.au/products.php?C_ID=1&S_ID=259&PROD=43538  - once that's used, it's there for eternity !

 

 

hope that helps

pi.jpeg

IMG_2772.JPG

IMG_2771.JPG

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3 hours ago, mwhouston said:

I’ve posted this on the Pi Moode thread.

There's a Pi Moode thread?

 

3 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Upgraded to Pi4 4GB but they run hot.

 

 Me too, and yes, hotter.  My whole case is a heat sink.  Helps a lot.

 

3 hours ago, mwhouston said:

 Using Moode 6.4 now, very good.

Me too.  Volumio don't seem to ever fix things. Moode is very well supported.  There's a fix in 6.4.1 already, when it is released, for a problem I was having

 

2 hours ago, RankStranger said:

Notice any audible difference with the 4?

Too subtle to be sure.  Certainly not worse.

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11 minutes ago, scruffy1 said:

 

would benefit from holes in the side of the case above the board, because convective cooling would pull more air in from the side(s) to passively rise out of the case, than would fit past the "block" provided by the motherboard

 

along the edge as shown by the red arrows

 

plan b would be to macguyver a bigger 'sink over the cpu - what's holding in on ? because a touch of epoxy with arctic silver paste will be more efficient, and as it looks like you have height to spare, simply increasing the height of the fins could almost double your radiant area

 

so, the gold one was recovered from a very old video card, and is 1.5" square by 9/16" high (imperialist measure) - council pickup was my source, but

 

if you really want to go bunta, zalman made awesome and beautiful passive sinks for northbridge coolers on motherboards back in the day, but these guys are seriously tall, although the base of the beautiful pale blue fan is smaller than the gold one

 

cheap and easy sources (slow delivery)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998838853.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950514537.html

 

copper is more efficient than aluminium; this seems perfect

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000110224085.html

 

but you'll need either thermal tape or an adhesive :

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/4712/sekisui-5760-thermal-tape  - a wise choice

https://www.computeronline.com.au/products.php?C_ID=1&S_ID=259&PROD=43538  - once that's used, it's there for eternity !

 

 

hope that helps

pi.jpeg

IMG_2772.JPG

IMG_2771.JPG

I used sticky sillipads to bond the HS.

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28 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

 

Guys you need a case like this  https://core-electronics.com.au/argon-neo-raspberry-pi-4-case.html

 

The whole case is a heatsink.  My case is just warm, and the Pi runs nicely 24 hours a day in the hot QLD summer.

Argon NEO Raspberry Pi 4 Case CE06587 (Image 12)

 

Argon NEO Raspberry Pi 4 Case CE06587 (Image 1)

 Sexy. The only case available for my Pi+DAC combo is this abomination

 

A3FC272C-D798-4B11-A5B4-22B3AF6E134D.thumb.jpeg.58c08e1011683db910bd686c81900719.jpeg

 

Yes, I know. My eyes, too. So my plan is to build it into a project box with a cheapish dual-output 5V linear power supply like this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861366138.html and maybe a wee screen to have a snazzy little home-made streamer box

 

@aussievintage What’s your audio output?

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13 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

@aussievintage What’s your audio output?

 

I just switched to a Topping D10, from a Fiio E10K.   

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2 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

 

I just switched to a Topping D10, from a Fiio E10K.   

?

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1 minute ago, mwhouston said:

?

What would you like to know? :) 

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1 hour ago, mwhouston said:

I used sticky sillipads to bond the HS.

 

silicon is more an insulator than a conductor of heat

 

thermal tape is the win

 

but the guys above suggesting a metal case are on the money, especially if there is a conductive thermal bond from the case to the cpu

 

my little khadas tone board is in a hefty aluminium case with minimal air flow., but the case itself allows any collected internal heat to dissipate very effectively

 

 

Edited by scruffy1

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2 hours ago, scruffy1 said:

a khadas tone board :)

I just keep quiet for now until someone explains what just happened :) 

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7 minutes ago, Muon N' said:

Better yet just use a paste specific for the job and use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive :)

Edit: It's conductive so be careful with application.

https://www.umart.com.au/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Adhesive-7-Gram-Kit_21773G.html

 

already linked to arctic alumina in my earlier post - it's non-conductive  ;)

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33 minutes ago, scruffy1 said:

 

already linked to arctic alumina in my earlier post - it's non-conductive  ;)

Does it perform as well?

 

Will have to excuse me as I'm a Arctic Silver tragic from way back :lol:

Likely not of a difference to be too concerned in this application.

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18 hours ago, mwhouston said:

I bought a packet of assorted holes from Mitre 10 but runs out of the larger ones. I’ll get another pack tomorrow and puts some more on. 

 

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9 hours ago, Muon N' said:

Better yet just use a paste specific for the job and use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive :)

Edit: It's conductive so be careful with application.

https://www.umart.com.au/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Adhesive-7-Gram-Kit_21773G.html

Acually, I would have expected it to be somewhat conductive to electricity, as well as heat. But in the Description on your link it states:

 

Quote


* Negligible Electrical Conductivity: Arctic Silver thermal adhesive was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.

 

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1 hour ago, bob_m_54 said:

 

Got a shock the other day while working in the backyard. I dug away some soil to find a hole there. I’ll bet the backyard is riddle with them. 

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11 hours ago, Muon N' said:

Does it perform as well?

 

Will have to excuse me as I'm a Arctic Silver tragic from way back :lol:

Likely not of a difference to be too concerned in this application.

 

i too have arctic silver on all my cpus (and gpus too, where it matters), but there's plenty of recent competitors that can top it

 

current top dog is allegedly thermal grizzly kryonaut (if price is unimportant, i guess)

https://www.gamingscan.com/best-thermal-paste/

 

i have a tube of liquid metal that i have left untouched due to oh&s concerns 😨

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@aussievintage

what am I missing ? 

That's a fake Topping D10. The Chinese are now copying their own products.

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47 minutes ago, krakatana said:

@aussievintage

what am I missing ? 

That's a fake Topping D10. The Chinese are now copying their own products.

 

Oh I see.  However that was the result of a quick search I did.  I didn't look closely. That isn't the one I bought,  I actually bought one that has the Topping name on the top left, not Aimpire.    I hope I didn't get a fake.

 

Any pointers on how to identify a fake?

 

 

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5 hours ago, bob_m_54 said:

Acually, I would have expected it to be somewhat conductive to electricity, as well as heat. But in the Description on your link it states:

 

 

Yeah, well in the computer hobby we always avoided getting it anywhere it should not be, so a better safe than sorry attitude :)

 

Maybe they have changed the formula since those days I was into performance computing.

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