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DIY audio: what are you building?


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1 minute ago, aussievintage said:

 

How often do you play 1000 watts continuous into speakers?

Only on Fridays of the odd months between 3 and 4pm as long as its not raining. 

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Just some little PC speakers.   Focal, Minidsp, Rotel...and CNC. Working From Home setup.    

Stereo Subs & Two Way Monitor Build   It’s been slow going on my two way monitor with stereo sub build but I’ve finally finished finished one of the two subs!!!   The subs are 10inch CSS drive

Finally finished my 6sn7 preamp. ? not a bad outcome considering 50% material was recycled. Thanks a lot mwhouston for schematics.

1 hour ago, Mark_A_W said:

Just some little PC speakers.   Focal, Minidsp, Rotel...and CNC.

Working From Home setup.
 

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that’s extremely impressive, Mark. Your own design or were you working from plans?

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My own design.    Fully active with Minidsp (2 off 2x4s) and a 6 Channel Rotel amp.


The box is a tad small for the 8" woofers, but they needed to fit on the desk.    They are massive overkill for PC speakers. 

But once you start building...it's hard to stop.  

 

Step 1: Design CNC Router

Step 2: Build CNC Router
Step 3: Buy Mill and convert to CNC
Step 4: Design speakers in MCAD and Speaker CAD (I like Vituix CAD now, I used to use Speaker Workshop.  Bought and tried SoundEasy, but never got on top of it.)
Step 5: Buy MDF...

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On 21/04/2021 at 3:53 PM, Mark_A_W said:

They are massive overkill for PC speakers. 

 

No such thing...

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On 21/04/2021 at 10:56 AM, itsparks said:

What about a Class a 100watt amp using 2 IFXn devices ?  :) 

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I would love to have a work-bench like that.  Though the stuffs/oscilloscopes on top shelves will require me going back to school for operation and interpretation. ?? 

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9 hours ago, Chanh said:

I would love to have a work-bench like that.  Though the stuffs/oscilloscopes on top shelves will require me going back to school for operation and interpretation. ?? 

Naw, its called learn as you go and have fun, the scope isn't that hard to use at all actually. 

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18 hours ago, Chanh said:

I would love to have a work-bench like that.  Though the stuffs/oscilloscopes on top shelves will require me going back to school for operation and interpretation. ?? 

I had a very good super quiet digital CRO which required a laptop. But i hit it with too many volts one day and it stopped working. I bought another but it is so noisy i cam cant do some of the tests i use to. 

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17 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I had a very good super quiet digital CRO which required a laptop. But i hit it with too many volts one day and it stopped working. I bought another but it is so noisy i cam cant do some of the tests i use to. 

 

Since you have purchased two of them,  what are your thoughts on what to buy - especially at the cheaper end.

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11 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

 

Since you have purchased two of them,  what are your thoughts on what to buy - especially at the cheaper end.

I cant recommend the second amd the first is no longer available.  The first i got from Jaycar many years ago plus free software and was excellent. The second is barely usable. I have to get something more serious. 

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Finally got some good listening time with the new chip based MM phono stage (will be labeled “Mimic - Custom”). Such a simple cct. and produces such good bass and really neutral mids and treble. Staggering dynamics, snappy and fast. An absolute delight to listen to. 

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Bought one of these MTesters late last year. It failed a few months back. Bought another but used the same enclosure, cheaper. Works OK. This time mounted the battery on the outside for easy change. 

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10 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Bought one of these MTesters late last year. It failed a few months back. Bought another but used the same enclosure, cheaper. Works OK. This time mounted the battery on the outside for easy change. 

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Have one too, they work well.

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Guys..,

Been tidying up. 

I have these available if anyone of you would like to obtain the lot locally. 
Arduino board and couple led display screens. Some film caps as per picture. 
Can collect from my office in Joondalup or in Morley WA. 

Audyn, Solon, and Conrad Johnson from one of my preamps that I decommissioned sometime back. 
 

I will also have a couple regulated psu made available too, those I bought from eBay. 

Update: taken by local SNAer. 

 

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On 01/05/2021 at 2:27 PM, mwhouston said:

I think if you are serious about your hobby the answer is NO!

My capacitance,impedance meter alone cost $200.-. 

Cheap crap like that should not be allowed to be sold. Resources were dug out of the ground, energy has been used, pollution created to make s..t tools to be used for a short period of time just to end up in land fill.

Buy quality that performs and lasts you for a long time.

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On 01/05/2021 at 4:27 PM, mwhouston said:

Why not get a similar one from Jaycar?  I use a multimeter and LCR meter from Jaycar and haven't had any problems with them.  

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Main issue with these cheapo mm is safety and protection circuit, check some of the YT videos of their td, if you want cheaper but decent mm look at the uni-t or similar

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1 hour ago, kukynas said:

Main issue with these cheapo mm is safety and protection circuit, check some of the YT videos of their td, if you want cheaper but decent mm look at the uni-t or similar

They look just like the ones I use, bought from Jaycar.  Probably OEM and sold under a number of brand names.

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1 hour ago, RoHo said:

Why not get a similar one from Jaycar?  I use a multimeter and LCR meter from Jaycar and haven't had any problems with them.  

The Mtest goes waaaaayyyy... beyond that. 

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Can be luck of the draw sometimes.

Bought a cheap tong tester from Jaycar. On my third replacement from them and it still tells me I am drawing 1 to 3 amps DC when its just sitting on the bench. Gave up in the end as it measures AC well which is what I wanted.  

On the other hand I have a standard MM from them, similar price and same brand that has lasted years.

 

Tony

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Stumbled upon this design. Would be an interesting one to replicate for sure: 

 

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from a reviewer’s description of the design - 

 

Each speaker contains six 10” woofers, arranged one atop the other... The woofers are slot loaded such that three woofers are visible from the front, and the other three from the rear... Though all the woofers are oriented with their cones facing downward, they are wired with alternating phase so as to eliminate vibration.“

 

”On top of the bass cabinet sits the “head unit,” which contains an 8” wide-band driver from Tangband... describes it as “semi-cardoid transmission line.” It has solid walls on three sides, while the rear is a perforated grill. The interior is stuffed“

 

”woofers work only from approximately 150 Hz and down”

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I am not a big fan of the TB. Too coloured for me. 

 

The Heil Bass Array was first shown (to the best of my knowledge) at the last Eropean Triode Festival. Used 15” JBLs.

 

I just hate seeing translam boxes. Such a waste of materials.

 

dave

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44 minutes ago, planet10 said:

I am not a big fan of the TB. Too coloured for me. 

 

The Heil Bass Array was first shown (to the best of my knowledge) at the last Eropean Triode Festival. Used 15” JBLs.

 

I just hate seeing translam boxes. Such a waste of materials.

 

dave

Thanks, I believe they also mentioned Lowthers. I’m sure fostex 8” -er could be substituted in too. 
 

Haven’t heard the heil bass concept, but intrigued. A stack of 15” would be insane.

 

agrred that a crazy amount of materials goes into this style cabinet. Have seen a few Tannoy BLH cabinets made translam... that’s a tonne of mdf! 

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1 hour ago, planet10 said:

I am not a big fan of the TB. Too coloured for me. 

 

The Heil Bass Array was first shown (to the best of my knowledge) at the last Eropean Triode Festival. Used 15” JBLs.

 

I just hate seeing translam boxes. Such a waste of materials.

 

dave

I hate seeing people spend their money on speakers with painted on dots that does SFA !

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OK - I'll bite.  What is "translam"?

 

And what is the Heil Bass Array?

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58 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

OK - I'll bite.  What is "translam"?

 

And what is the Heil Bass Array?

I was guessing that it was the process of laminating/stacking many identical pieces vertically to make the cabinet.. a la this 

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Wanted to listen to my new modified speakers in my main listening room. And wanted to use my 6L6 SE UL wine box amp (Silver Supreme) to power them being 96db efficient. 
 

But when I  turned on the power amp there was an audible hum in the left channel. This amp has always been dead quiet even with high sensitive speakers. I checked wiring in the amp and could find nothing and decided to swap out some tubes. First the driver tube (Psvane 12AT7), made no difference. Then i went to swap the power tubes and realised the tube was an EL34 and not a JJ 6L6GC. The 6L6s are quite fat and the EL34 slim. 

 

Now i remember, months ago i swapped in the EL34s to see how they sound and i got a hum. My intention was to put back the 6L6s but went back to my SS Holton and forgot the swap out. Now months down the road i remember. After an hour of stuffing around. 
 

Well worth the effort. The new speakers sound glorious and tube rich on the hot end of the JJs and silver foil MCaps. Im a happy man. 
 

https://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2017/02/silver-supreme-6l6-se-ul-amp-in-wooden.html

 

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On 21/04/2021 at 3:53 PM, Mark_A_W said:

My own design.    Fully active with Minidsp (2 off 2x4s) and a 6 Channel Rotel amp.


The box is a tad small for the 8" woofers, but they needed to fit on the desk.    They are massive overkill for PC speakers. 

But once you start building...it's hard to stop.  

 

Step 1: Design CNC Router

Step 2: Build CNC Router
Step 3: Buy Mill and convert to CNC
Step 4: Design speakers in MCAD and Speaker CAD (I like Vituix CAD now, I used to use Speaker Workshop.  Bought and tried SoundEasy, but never got on top of it.)
Step 5: Buy MDF...

Beautiful work Mark. You mustn’t sleep much 👍

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Im not getting emails from SNA. Do i have to clean out a mailbox or something? If so how? 

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Under the current setup i wasn’t getting extended bass. Moved the new speakers over to the DIY Holton now flat down to 30hz. Even output at 25hz. Could rival my old main speakers which also get down to 30hz. 
 

New drivers still tight. So I’m expecting  better performance in 50hours of play or so. 

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1 minute ago, Bunno77 said:

@mwhouston I saw them in altronics the other day. Pretty decent looking drivers

With an Fs of 25hz and - in my boxes - 96db efficiency they are unbeatable at the price. 

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36 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Im not getting emails from SNA. Do i have to clean out a mailbox or something? If so how? 

 

 

They reset all the notification setup.  You have to dig into your account settings to make it all work they way you want again.

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2 hours ago, aussievintage said:

 

 

They reset all the notification setup.  You have to dig into your account settings to make it all work they way you want again.

I have re-setup my email, confirmed and activated it but still no email from SNA. Who do i PM to fix this. 

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5 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I have re-setup my email, confirmed and activated it but still no email from SNA. Who do i PM to fix this. 

 

Did you go into notifications and set them up again?  Go to Account settings, and over on the right, under Other settings, is Notification settings.  Lots of stuff in there will be set to NOT email you.

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Posted (edited)

A $20 TDA7293 100W chip amp kit with PS onboard. Completed the pcb. some months back and now a going amp. I had a spare 300VAC 30-0-30V tranni over from other builds and now in good use. 
 

Sounds good so far and looks neat but of course needs some hours on it. The chip boasts bi-polar front end with for sonics DMO back end for power. As long as it sounds good and performs quietly it could be made from chewing gum. $20 for a 100Wpc super low distortion amp, hard to beat. You could make it in a day. 

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Edited by mwhouston
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10 hours ago, mwhouston said:

 

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I obviously can’t see the whole story from the picture, but that ground wire to the transformer bolt worries me. If the transformer is bolted to the chassis without insulation, wouldn’t that create a short winding?

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1 hour ago, Steffen said:

 

I obviously can’t see the whole story from the picture, but that ground wire to the transformer bolt worries me. If the transformer is bolted to the chassis without insulation, wouldn’t that create a short winding?

Mounting kits have an insulator disc that goes either side of the transformer. One between the chassis and the transformer, and the other between the top metal disc and the transformer. I'd be more worried about whether the bolt is properly earthed to the chassis. You can't tighten the bolt too tight, and the head needs to have contact with bare metal (no paint) preferably with a shakeproof washer between the bolt head and the bare metal of the case.

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