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DIY audio: what are you building?


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Finally finished my 6sn7 preamp. 😀 not a bad outcome considering 50% material was recycled. Thanks a lot mwhouston for schematics.

DV676? DVD player or close. I have the same player in the shed, great little unit.

 

Getting there.....

IMG_0048.thumb.JPG.97431fe41ceaf3b33d99c5c62c1ac53b.JPG

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6 minutes ago, Batty said:

DV676? DVD player or close. I have the same player in the shed, great little unit.

 

Getting there.....

Yep, the Toslink output is coming in very handy.

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nice little cheapo transport

 

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19 minutes ago, RoHo said:

New miniDSP 2x4 HD with DIY valves.  I like it both ways. 😀

 

 

58D885D5-E318-4687-BB29-AC85639F9A13.jpeg

What’s the component in the middle.? Think I see a tamura transformer and el84s 😄

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23 minutes ago, crtexcnndrm99 said:

What’s the component in the middle.? Think I see a tamura transformer and el84s 😄

It’s a Pre-amp, Allen Wright’s FVP5A  circuit.  Valves are Russian 6n6p.  The transformer is a James from Taiwan.  Sadly they closed down a few years ago.  Good quality and much more affordable than the classy Japanese trafos like Tango and Tamara

 

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James Trannies no more?  That's a shame.

 

What are the tubes in your amp?

 

Edited by Red MacKay
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13 minutes ago, RoHo said:

It’s a Pre-amp, Allen Wright’s FVP5A  circuit.  Valves are Russian 6n6p.  The transformer is a James from Taiwan.  Sadly they closed down a few years ago.  Good quality and much more affordable than the classy Japanese trafos like Tango and Tamara

 

Ah interesting, cheers 

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26 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

James Trannies no more?  That's a shame.

 

What are the tubes in your amp?

 

The power amp uses 6cb5a, cheap TV tubes.  I found out about them from Thomas Mayer’s Vinyl Savor blog.  He wired them as triodes, traced the curves and reckoned they were as linear as a 300B.  At 10 bucks each....shut up and take my money!!
The input stage is another Allen Wright design, from his PP2C power amp and uses 6H30 tubes

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1 hour ago, RoHo said:

The power amp uses 6cb5a, cheap TV tubes.  I found out about them from Thomas Mayer’s Vinyl Savor blog.  He wired them as triodes, traced the curves and reckoned they were as linear as a 300B.  At 10 bucks each....shut up and take my money!!

Nice.....  I love seeing whacky tubes being used.  Well Done!

 

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10 hours ago, RoHo said:
10 hours ago, Red MacKay said:

 

The power amp uses 6cb5a, cheap TV tubes.

 

 

Ah yes, line output tubes.   Long known in the guitar world as great power amp output valves.  Maton - famous Aussie brand, used them.   I have a Maton amp with 6CM5 valves, and I serviced one with 6DQ6 valves.  All great candidates for experiments like this.

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Just completed my seventh Holton 300/500W amp. Needs a little more fine tuning but sounding excellent so far. Can’t beat that Holton bass extension and control. This is for a SNA member. Thanks to @wimbo this amp exists and should bring great pleasure to its new owner. 

2C1C8EDF-9D96-4161-A91C-9D3B1B4E1AA4.jpeg

8EBF89FF-1670-4986-8820-F0BE38D9F96B.jpeg

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The new amp settled at 54C at the HS. What is the highest temp builders would like to see with their SS amps? My much regarded Adelaide mate thinks 60C tops is fine. 

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24 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

The new amp settled at 54C at the HS. What is the highest temp builders would like to see with their SS amps? My much regarded Adelaide mate thinks 60C tops is fine. 

 

Spit on your fingertip and touch the hottest bit.  If it goes  fsszzzt,  it's too hot  :) 

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1 minute ago, aussievintage said:

 

Spit on your fingertip and touch the hottest bit.  If it goes  fsszzzt,  it's too hot  :) 

I have a infer red thermometer but I’m aware they can be a few degrees out. Yes hot to touch.  

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44 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I have a infer red thermometer but I’m aware they can be a few degrees out. Yes hot to touch.  

 

 

There is no easy answer.  Let's say the max junction temperature allowed for the FETs is 25 degrees C.  You can't measure that of course, and the device's case temperature at that junction temperature will vary according to the thermal resistance of the heatsinking it is attached to, forced cooling rate etc etc.

 

Another thing to consider is the working temperature inside the case, for the other temperature sensitive components, such as electrolytics.

 

To fall back on another well used folk tale,  treat it like a coffee cup.  If you can tolerate the heat on your hand if you grab it for longer than just a touch, i.e. hold it like a coffee cup, then it will be fine.

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1 hour ago, mwhouston said:

What is the highest temp builders would like to see with their SS amps?


I’ve just installed 2 x HypeX NC1200 based amps, one stereo and one tri-channel and they both settle at around 43 degC after 3 hrs continuous 5.1 music playback at quite high volume. I’d like to get the temp down a bit to prolong life of components.

 

I’ve ordered some thermal pads to see if that will improve heat transfer from the power supply heat sinks to the chassis. I’ve done heat measurements at about 10 spots on each amp and will compare once I’ve fitted the thermal pads. Gelid 15W/mK pads coming from Hong Kong is taking forever...

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For those who like figures (I prefer the female type);

 

  • bias current per channel - 220mA
  • DC offset < 10mV
  • noise with RCAs open - 2.2mV
  • supply voltage - 134VDC
  • storage - 80,000uf of 100V cap
  • tranni - 500VAC
  • Max HS temp 54C. 

From cold and a rough bias  setup yesterday when measured the difference when hot was less than 10% drift. Close enough but I got it hot and re-adjusted but really no need. The power FETs have a negative temp coefficient so they ‘tend to self adjust and settle well. There is no temperature compensation on these Holton modules. Not needed. 

6797E603-29DC-40F6-9298-F0D686FF3E77.jpeg

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7 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

For those who like figures (I prefer the female type);

 

  • bias current per channel - 220mA
  • DC offset < 10mV
  • noise with RCAs open - 2.2mV
  • supply voltage - 134VDC
  • storage - 80,000uf of 100V cap
  • tranni - 500VAC
  • Max HS temp 54C. 

From cold and a rough bias  setup yesterday when measured the difference when hot was less than 10% drift. Close enough but I got it hot and re-adjusted but really no need. The power FETs have a negative temp coefficient so they ‘tend to self adjust and settle well. There is no temperature compensation on these Holton modules. Not needed. 

6797E603-29DC-40F6-9298-F0D686FF3E77.jpeg

I like the 240v circ use to the modules :)
A bit of heat shrink will tidy up the ends of sheath a little

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35 minutes ago, Bunno77 said:

I like the 240v circ use to the modules :)
A bit of heat shrink will tidy up the ends of sheath a little

Is that to clean up the lamp cord cabling or ? :P

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1 hour ago, Bunno77 said:

I like the 240v circ use to the modules :)
A bit of heat shrink will tidy up the ends of sheath a little

I didnt notice it until all connected up. Not pulling down and only you know. Keep it to yourself. I know where you live. 

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43 minutes ago, itsparks said:

Is that to clean up the lamp cord cabling or ? :P

Ahhh....... haha

15 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I didn't notice it until all connected up. Not pulling down and only you know. Keep it to yourself. I know where you live. 

Haha sorry to nitpick and yep not worth the hassle now.

Another beautiful build by yourself and I would love to build a Holton too especially now with the talk of ending DIY modules. Wasn't really amazed by their room at the show a few years back but that doesn't mean much in a tiny hotel room

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2 minutes ago, Bunno77 said:

Ahhh....... haha

Haha sorry to nitpick and yep not worth the hassle now.

Another beautiful build by yourself and I would love to build a Holton too especially now with the talk of ending DIY modules. Wasn't really amazed by their room at the show a few years back but that doesn't mean much in a tiny hotel room

If you do go ahead happy to help with advice etc. 

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@mwhouston thank you very much. I definitely should at least buy the parts while still available.

Hopefully get my F6 build finished soon

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12 hours ago, Bunno77 said:

Ahhh....... haha

Haha sorry to nitpick and yep not worth the hassle now.

Another beautiful build by yourself and I would love to build a Holton too especially now with the talk of ending DIY modules. Wasn't really amazed by their room at the show a few years back but that doesn't mean much in a tiny hotel room

Wait ? Anthony is going to stop doing DIY modules ? No way.. I've know him since 1996 ...

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Just messaged Anthony and he says he will be just keeping the more popular models;- 200, 300 and 500W models. That should cover most builders needs. He also mentioned that he will see how that pans out. 
 

For me the best sounding modules are the 500W modules. I have keep my 500W amp for a few years now and just completed one for another SNA member. 

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Guys I accidently ordered WAY to many of these, I meant to order a handful of the 50watt and 100 watt of the AEM amplifier boards, but instead i screwed up and ordered TONS of the 100 watt boards.

 

Offering them very cheap If any interest please let me know ! 

100-wpcb.jpg

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Found a fractured signal conductor in one of my RibbonTek interconnects, about 6 inches from the ETI plug, I suspect it has been like this since I got them used as signal was occasionally intermittent and slightly weak on that channel.

 

Fiddly repair job but all good now with that repaired interconnect about 6 inches shorter than the other 😁 but sounds better than it has in some time.

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I have had the fe206's in store for a little over 8yrs, so been on the cards to build something for the for some time.

if your not on diyaudio, here are a set of kirishima's I built over the Christmas break.

Note: each speaker is 95kg 🙂

 

You may be able to see the full build in google photos album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yd2idnCRisLX8wGRA

 

Sound sources from everything has been delightfully clear mids, with a  super quick bass response, and not 'heavy'.

Way less shouty than I thought they would be, and well represented playing with these over anything else I have or have played with.

 

Waiting for my Class A SE amp to turn up for further audio exploration 🙂

 

5.jpg

4.jpg

3.jpg

2.jpg

1.jpg

Edited by stevodude
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10 minutes ago, stevodude said:

Great build @stevodude looks like the whizzer cone has been 'EnABL'..  great to know that the bass is fast and the mids are not shouty..  something i had problems dealing with when i had a pair Dallas BLHs 10 years ago..

 

4.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Nice to see someone else able to enjoy speakers larger than they...

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53 minutes ago, stevodude said:

I have had the fe206's in store for a little over 8yrs, so been on the cards to build something for the for some time.

if your not on diyaudio, here are a set of kirishima's I built over the Christmas break.

Note: each speaker is 95kg

Thanx Stevo,

 

I have grabbed the images. Is it Sachico or Kirishima?

 

dave

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1 hour ago, stevodude said:

I have had the fe206's in store for a little over 8yrs, so been on the cards to build something for the for some time.

if your not on diyaudio, here are a set of kirishima's I built over the Christmas break.

Note: each speaker is 95kg 🙂

 

You may be able to see the full build in google photos album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yd2idnCRisLX8wGRA

 

Sound sources from everything has been delightfully clear mids, with a  super quick bass response, and not 'heavy'.

Way less shouty than I thought they would be, and well represented playing with these over anything else I have or have played with.

 

Waiting for my Class A SE amp to turn up for further audio exploration 🙂

 

5.jpg

4.jpg

3.jpg

2.jpg

1.jpg

Golly!

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1 hour ago, stevodude said:

I have had the fe206's in store for a little over 8yrs, so been on the cards to build something for the for some time.

if your not on diyaudio, here are a set of kirishima's I built over the Christmas break.

Note: each speaker is 95kg 🙂

 

You may be able to see the full build in google photos album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yd2idnCRisLX8wGRA

 

Sound sources from everything has been delightfully clear mids, with a  super quick bass response, and not 'heavy'.

Way less shouty than I thought they would be, and well represented playing with these over anything else I have or have played with.

 

Waiting for my Class A SE amp to turn up for further audio exploration 🙂

 

 

I have 208's in a simpler TQWT construction, but I enjoy them too, usually powered by SE triodes of some kind.

 

So what's that mod in the middle (phase plug thing?)?

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some discussions on diyaudio, particularly for the fostex I beleive? as it gives them something?  I don't think anyone really knows hahaha.

 

I bought the phase plugs enabl'd .  I haven't done the driver yet, as I wanted to trial it naked first for a while. 🙂

 

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/213593-enabl.html

 

attached an ebabl'd fe206

FE206eN.jpg

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57 minutes ago, stevodude said:

I bought the phase plugs enabl'd .  I haven't done the driver yet, as I wanted to trial it naked first for a while. 🙂

 

 

I don't even have the phase plugs.

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9 hours ago, stevodude said:

some discussions on diyaudio, particularly for the fostex I beleive? as it gives them something?  I don't think anyone really knows hahaha.

 

I bought the phase plugs enabl'd .  I haven't done the driver yet, as I wanted to trial it naked first for a while. 🙂

 

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/213593-enabl.html

 

attached an ebabl'd fe206

FE206eN.jpg

The drivers are good, Phase plugs help.  Painted dots on them does not. Save your money.

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Thosephase plugs have a weak EnABL pattern. It will have next to no effect without the rest of the driver done. EnABL2 has placed the ringsets in more useful locations.

 

[img]image.png.d8acd1afe5cbf054e0e20fe2c960fb7f.png

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1 hour ago, planet10 said:

Thosephase plugs have a weak EnABL pattern. It will have next to no effect without the rest of the driver done. EnABL2 has placed the ringsets in more useful locations.

 

[img]image.png.d8acd1afe5cbf054e0e20fe2c960fb7f.png

 

The  EnABL pattern "feature" has no effect at all other than pretty dots.  "PERIOD "

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