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DIY audio: what are you building?


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Finally finished my 6sn7 preamp. 😀 not a bad outcome considering 50% material was recycled. Thanks a lot mwhouston for schematics.

10 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Merry Xmas to all you DIYers.
 

May your irons remain hot and your beer cold. More projects to post in the new year more gear and music to listen to. 

 

 

Yes yes !!  Listening to tunes now ! Learning how to use my new Christmas present ! 

 

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10 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Merry Xmas to all you DIYers.
 

May your irons remain hot and your beer cold. More projects to post in the new year more gear and music to listen to. 

 

 

 

Thanks , and same to you and everyone!  Cheers. 😄

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I have a question...

 

I want to make a new DHT pre.  Love the timbre, tone clarity, openess and "thereness" of my 10Y, but it has lots of other faults...  Rather than chopping and changing it - I believe it is prudent I start on a whole new unit - especially at the rate I (don't) get things completed.

 

So I am thinking of using a PX25 this time, into another line out trannie identical circuit to my 10Y.  Plate resistance of the 10Y is 4.7k, of the PX25 it's only 1.3k, so much more useable.  Gain of 10Y is 8, PX25 is 9, so pretty much the same.  Realistically, my gain with the 10Y currently is around 1.25 - almost enough, but not enough!

 

My thinking is to possibly use an input trannie to step up the gain, like what DHT Rob does.  I have a pair of nice old Trimax trannies here, but they are only 6.5mA max.  So to my question...

 

How do I calculate the current output of like a CDplayer, DAC or phono stage?

Thanks in advance.

 

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My Christmas present arrived this morning :)

A full F6 kit from DIY Audio Store

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I have also spent a little time lately adding some of the other goodies I bought from some great blokes here on SNA.

Replaced the 360VA tranny with a 500VA Sedlbauer, installed some Vishay bridges, a soft start and front switch hidden underneath as the rear switch is a pain for me with devices being in a cabinet. Not a huge difference in sound and a little overkill but may as well... The 500VA tranny only just fits with a few extra washers to the top plate and with the mounting plate bending under its weight. 

 

Considering mounting the filter board to the back of the front plate and putting the trans flat with a home made Faraday cage. Also have a speaker protection board to build and mount somewhere.

 

A few other little tidy up jobs were done with more to come and I also vinyl wrapped the faceplate with a matte black wrap. It is just on the top edge and front with a Posca pen used for the sides (bottom left silver as in pic) which has worked very well. The vinyl is not perfect on the edge but no bubbles on face so I am pretty happy. It took me a while to find anyone interested in the wrap but these guys https://www.iguanasigns.com.au/

not only listened, they also showed me how to install myself it and gave me enough offcuts to do the job twice for free. Hope it is ok to mention them. It really was impressive and I have no links to them.

 

A friend leant me his soldering station which has made things super easy compared to the rubbish I was using before.

 

Hopefully get the F6 up and running before the return to work....

I have been amazed by the F5 and will make both boards a lot easier to swap in and out in future

 

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23 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

Where did you source the case and how much please?

 

I bought it from the classifieds here but they can be bought from DIY Audio Store

https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/deluxe

 

Mine is the aluminium 4U. They are made in Italy and the heatsinks come pre-drilled for their First Watt clone boards.

 

It seems pretty good but not perfect. The rear panel is flimsy but not a huge deal. Mounting it all together is sometimes a little tight especially putting the faceplate on. Brackets could be a little better but I don't think you can find much better especially at the price. I am a tradesman and have put a lot of switchboards and control panels together so maybe a little spoilt?

 

I think it could be a little taller and deeper. The 5U is a lot bigger but there seems to be some issues with some boards mounting close to the 2 joined heatsinks on each side

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7 hours ago, Bunno77 said:

I bought it from the classifieds here but they can be bought from DIY Audio Store

https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/deluxe

 

Mine is the aluminium 4U. They are made in Italy and the heatsinks come pre-drilled for their First Watt clone boards.

 

It seems pretty good but not perfect. The rear panel is flimsy but not a huge deal. Mounting it all together is sometimes a little tight especially putting the faceplate on. Brackets could be a little better but I don't think you can find much better especially at the price. I am a tradesman and have put a lot of switchboards and control panels together so maybe a little spoilt?

 

I think it could be a little taller and deeper. The 5U is a lot bigger but there seems to be some issues with some boards mounting close to the 2 joined heatsinks on each side

A good way to remedy this, is to use a piece of Flat copper bar or Aluminum, then mount the fets to that :) 

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11 minutes ago, murrmax said:

Semi completed my updated 3ways   Christmas project from 12 to 15in bass modules -sounding good 5E10B80E-3626-4BCB-BF02-574766F23837.thumb.jpeg.faa72c06dc603f4b8e04150e17cd71ab.jpeg

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Raals? nice

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Orchard Audio Starkrimson power amp. 

it’s in a old MusicLabs integrated hassis. I’ve added a selector switch but signal goes out to external pre and back into the power amp module.

Running it unbalanced until I can afford a Balanced pre.  

 

I’m using stick down spacers as i’m terrible at drilling.

BA73260F-F9B7-4403-8AF7-689472F28005.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, misternavi said:

Orchard Audio Starkrimson power amp. 

it’s in a old MusicLabs integrated hassis. I’ve added a selector switch but signal goes out to external pre and back into the power amp module.

Running it unbalanced until I can afford a Balanced pre.  

 

I’m using stick down spacers as i’m terrible at drilling.

BA73260F-F9B7-4403-8AF7-689472F28005.jpeg

 

I had one of this modules, tested it, sent it back. His prices for these modules are way to much ! and the lack there of sound I wasn't impressed at all. 

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3 minutes ago, misternavi said:

I’m using stick down spacers as i’m terrible at drilling.

 

I have noted quite a bit of use of stick on cable tidies and spacers on here.  I have been distrustful of them long term.  However, glues have improved a lot.  Maybe I should try some as well.

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24 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

 

I have noted quite a bit of use of stick on cable tidies and spacers on here.  I have been distrustful of them long term.  However, glues have improved a lot.  Maybe I should try some as well.

I'll power it up and have a listen, if it's all good  I'll give it a clean in cleaning alcohol while consuming a $#!+ load of drinking alcohol and stick it down. Amp won't be moving around after that. Should be fine.

 

@itsparksWhat didn't you like about it? Did you compare with any other Class D amp? If so, which one?

 

 

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9 minutes ago, misternavi said:

 

 

@itsparksWhat didn't you like about it? Did you compare with any other Class D amp? If so, which one?

 

Id have to admit, I really am not a fan of Class D at all, i find they lack alot of oomph & decent sound. IMO they are good for driving subwoofers in the 60hz and down range, but thats my opinion.

 

The class d units you have, i found very weird design and stupid high priced for a Class D amp that has 150 watts MAX.  gAn fets are very new in the class d amplifiers and i find that Leo is taking advantage of this and jacking up the price for no reason, If you wait a few months the price will come down on other units where you won't be robbed alot of money for a simple device.

 

Again that's my 0.02$

 

 

 

 

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Not mine but form a dedicated Canadian DIY site I’ve been a member of for a long time. Tube phono preamp. But dig the build!!!!

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1 hour ago, aussievintage said:

 

I have noted quite a bit of use of stick on cable tidies and spacers on here.  I have been distrustful of them long term.  However, glues have improved a lot.  Maybe I should try some as well.

On lighter boards etc and for cable securing I like them. For cct. brds they are electrically isolating, vibration absorbing (thick sticky pads) and if set up correctly easy to remove a board from if required. I’ve found once they have been down for even a short time it’s extremely hard to get them off. Not to be used were heat is involved even though they appear to be able to take some warmth without issues. 

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3 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

On lighter boards etc and for cable securing I like them. For cct. brds they are electrically isolating, vibration absorbing (thick sticky pads) and if set up correctly easy to remove a board from if required. I’ve found once they have been down for even a short time it’s extremely hard to get them off. Not to be used were heat is involved even though they appear to be able to take some warmth without issues. 

Those Class D modules don't get hot at all. He would be fine, IMO id still use stand off's though AND id make the wiring much neater and more organized with better flow.  :)

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3 hours ago, itsparks said:

 

Id have to admit, I really am not a fan of Class D at all, i find they lack alot of oomph & decent sound. IMO they are good for driving subwoofers in the 60hz and down range, but thats my opinion.

 

The class d units you have, i found very weird design and stupid high priced for a Class D amp that has 150 watts MAX.  gAn fets are very new in the class d amplifiers and i find that Leo is taking advantage of this and jacking up the price for no reason, If you wait a few months the price will come down on other units where you won't be robbed alot of money for a simple device.

 

Again that's my 0.02$

 

 

 

 

Class D isn't for everyone. Some prefer pepsi some prefer Coke. 

 

I like the flavour Class D amps over other A/B amps I've had.

 

 

I got the Gan modules at 15% off (still the most I've ever paid for an amp), I haven't heard them before  but really wanted to try them out.  Hopefully it's better than my IcePower 125asx2 module which I like more than many other budget amps.

 

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1 hour ago, misternavi said:

Class D isn't for everyone. Some prefer pepsi some prefer Coke. 

 

I like the flavour Class D amps over other A/B amps I've had.

 

 

I got the Gan modules at 15% off (still the most I've ever paid for an amp), I haven't heard them before  but really wanted to try them out.  Hopefully it's better than my IcePower 125asx2 module which I like more than many other budget amps.

 

\

Yup, to each their own! I refuse to over pay for Audio,  the modules are way to over priced for what you get ! 

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@murrmax love your work! got any WIP pics you can share? What ware they? PHL and RAAL? Are those amps in those wooden boxes?

 

Went HI-FI initially modelled up the cabinets utilising polygon and hexagon shapes; (no internal bracing needed) due to superior geometry. 3d cutting is doable but then there's the assembly logistics also. Not something you want to attempt without CNC..

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Then decided it was going to get a bit expensive and construction without a workshop might be tricky for an unknown outcome, so decided to go Lo-fi in true DIY style!. I don't have access to a workshop so I had to get creative in true DIY spirit with only a jigsaw, orbital sander and trimmer (small router) power tools at hand. So after brain storming without caving into convention (i.e square box) I had an idea.. 

 

So got myself a used french oak barrel, cut it in half and went from there a fair bit of sweat, sanding and carbog came out with a pretty good result. I should have taken some pics on the way;  I thought of these as prototypes. Because of the structure of the barrel and metal bands no internal bracing needed, don't underestimate a curve:) 

 

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Using Raal 7020xr , PHL1120mid and PHL5021 bass driver - certainly happy with the results 

Using miniDSP 2x8,  

The amps are using LJM L12 a/b modules for mid/high, LJM L15 d module for bass class D - I'm kicking myself for selling the Yamaha P2201s I had now, need some more quality power behind those 15's 

 

 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, murrmax said:

 

Went HI-FI initially modelled up the cabinets utilising polygon and hexagon shapes; (no internal bracing needed) due to superior geometry. 3d cutting is doable but then there's the assembly logistics also. Not something you want to attempt without CNC..

 

 

Then decided it was going to get a bit expensive and construction without a workshop might be tricky for an unknown outcome, so decided to go Lo-fi in true DIY style!. I don't have access to a workshop so I had to get creative in true DIY spirit with only a jigsaw, orbital sander and trimmer (small router) power tools at hand. So after brain storming without caving into convention (i.e square box) I had an idea.. 

 

So got myself a used french oak barrel, cut it in half and went from there a fair bit of sweat, sanding and carbog came out with a pretty good result. I should have taken some pics on the way;  I thought of these as prototypes. Because of the structure of the barrel and metal bands no internal bracing needed, don't underestimate a curve:) 

 

197744446_ScreenShot2021-01-08at8_59_54pm.thumb.png.06e493fc7a07dcfba722d5cb0324d089.png

Using Raal 7020xr , PHL1120mid and PHL5021 bass driver - certainly happy with the results 

Using miniDSP 2x8,  

The amps are using LJM L12 a/b modules for mid/high, LJM L15 d module for bass class D - I'm kicking myself for selling the Yamaha P2201s I had now, need some more quality power behind those 15's 

 

And then you went and spoilt it all by making the bass a ported spkr.  :(

 

Andy

 

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And then you went and spoilt it all by making the bass a ported spkr.  :(

 

Andy

 

I did contemplate it, If I still had the Yamaha amps I would have them sealed, my current amplification won't cut it. 

I would go sealed with suitable amplification behind them.

 

Easy enough to plug the ports up and try though. 

 

 

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On 08/01/2021 at 9:44 PM, andyr said:

 

And then you went and spoilt it all by making the bass a ported spkr.  :(

 

Andy

 

Yep my sealed 12” woofers sound extra good I sealed boxes but porting has its place. Probably more boxes are pride than sealed.

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Another Tripath 180W class D in a smart steel two tone enclosure. AmpFest Downunder (VI) has gone off again with some nice high power SS amps. A little gathering of myself and a SA mate and another SNA member to demo over two+ days our big builds for the year. And of course there is the AmpFest feast (two frozen pizzas). 
 

Hopefully @danw1million will chime in and show us his exquisite pure Class A high power builds which rocked Houston Control Central over two days. Also got more time with my 500W Holton build. 
 

We have to have the misery amp, the one the other party doesn’t know about. Mine was hidden and playing inside a cardboard box. It was the 180W Class D. It may have left three uninformed listeners guessing (one guess was a tube amp) but it entertained big time driving Altec horns and 12” woofer. 
 

The T4 board has been upgraded with Mundorf EVO oil caps on the input plus an extra 22,000uf of Mundorf audio grade cap (snubbed with 4.7uf and 0.1uf polies). Sounded warm and in complete bass control.
 

Now sold with donation. Called it Sortilege - mystery. 

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Edited by mwhouston
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On 08/01/2021 at 1:12 PM, misternavi said:

Class D isn't for everyone. Some prefer pepsi some prefer Coke. 

 

I like the flavour Class D amps over other A/B amps I've had.

 

 

I got the Gan modules at 15% off (still the most I've ever paid for an amp), I haven't heard them before  but really wanted to try them out.  Hopefully it's better than my IcePower 125asx2 module which I like more than many other budget amps.

 

I fired up the Starkrimson.
unbalanced input is a bit noisy (Could be cables inside the chassis might need to be shielded)

Compared to the IcePower 125ASX2 it isn't as warm sounding but definitely a lot more powerful sounding. Highs are more clean and detailed too.

I don't mind it. GREAT on heavy bass electronic music.

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For 6 years I didn't really do much as Going through Divorce, unemployment etc Didn't give me a great deal of motivation,  But 2020/2021 has given me an opportunity to start a project I Have had on my mind since 2005 when I first laid eyes on them. "Them" is the amazing Sonus Faber Amati Homage..

Having built  few Pairs of rectangular boxes I wanted so badly to try a Curved tail Speaker Build.

Well I can safely say I have started and got through most of the unexpected hurdles one can expect when bending a square flat piece of wood into a Boat shaped masterpiece.

After contemplating this for many years I finally had the motivation, the time and the funds to attempt this challenge.

I must say I never expected so many Bloddy challenges building a speaker like this in a suburban garage, Nor did I expect the tools needed. ( any excuse to buy more tools. hahaha) so here is my project to date. I have forked out for brand new Scan Speak Discovery drivers to keep the cost as Low as I can get but worthy of a buld like this.

I must say also having installed the Peerless HDS (scan speak now) into my first build project I am so impressed with this tweeter.

So i bought some more and have this ready and primed for this project.

 

Attached are the project to date.

 

project 2021-1.jpg

project 2021-2.jpg

project 2021-3.jpg

project 2021-4.jpg

project 2021-5.jpg

project 2021-6.jpg

project 2021-7.jpg

project 2021-8.jpg

project 2021-9.jpg

project 2021-10.jpg

project 2021-11.jpg

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I fired up the Starkrimson.
unbalanced input is a bit noisy (Could be cables inside the chassis might need to be shielded)

Compared to the IcePower 125ASX2 it isn't as warm sounding but definitely a lot more powerful sounding. Highs are more clean and detailed too.

I don't mind it. GREAT on heavy bass electronic music.

Are you bridging 125ASX2

 

From my experience a bridged 125 has pretty solid output, 

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6 hours ago, murrmax said:

Are you bridging 125ASX2

 

From my experience a bridged 125 has pretty solid output, 

Bet y ou100%  he didn't tie input NEG to gnd, since he is using SE input :)   If he did that his input gain would double.

 

IMO he also needs to really clean up the wiring :( its all over the place and none of its shielded.

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15 hours ago, chefsinc said:

For 6 years I didn't really do much as Going through Divorce, unemployment etc Didn't give me a great deal of motivation,  But 2020/2021 has given me an opportunity to start a project I Have had on my mind since 2005 when I first laid eyes on them. "Them" is the amazing Sonus Faber Amati Homage..

Having built  few Pairs of rectangular boxes I wanted so badly to try a Curved tail Speaker Build.

Well I can safely say I have started and got through most of the unexpected hurdles one can expect when bending a square flat piece of wood into a Boat shaped masterpiece.

After contemplating this for many years I finally had the motivation, the time and the funds to attempt this challenge.

I must say I never expected so many Bloddy challenges building a speaker like this in a suburban garage, Nor did I expect the tools needed. ( any excuse to buy more tools. hahaha) so here is my project to date. I have forked out for brand new Scan Speak Discovery drivers to keep the cost as Low as I can get but worthy of a buld like this.

I must say also having installed the Peerless HDS (scan speak now) into my first build project I am so impressed with this tweeter.

So i bought some more and have this ready and primed for this project.

 

Attached are the project to date.

 

project 2021-1.jpg

project 2021-2.jpg

project 2021-3.jpg

project 2021-4.jpg

project 2021-5.jpg

project 2021-6.jpg

project 2021-7.jpg

project 2021-8.jpg

project 2021-9.jpg

project 2021-10.jpg

project 2021-11.jpg


Wow for building a curved box, and wow wow for doing it in your home garage!   Looks great, we’ll done!

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1 hour ago, Janus77 said:


Wow for building a curved box, and wow wow for doing it in your home garage!   Looks great, we’ll done!

Have to agree. I struggle with a square box. 

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I’m still recovering from dojg the curved pieces on my FLH... but for the whole cabinet and where it’s going to be visible as well.. that impressive.

 

any plans to imitate the SF style grille out of string type material? 

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6 hours ago, crtexcnndrm99 said:

I’m still recovering from dojg the curved pieces on my FLH... but for the whole cabinet and where it’s going to be visible as well.. that impressive.

 

any plans to imitate the SF style grille out of string type material? 

No I think I will leave without a grill.not a fan of those piano wire ones they have.

Actually this build has elements of the older ones and newer Amati. Tried to mix the models up a bit to keep it looking current.

Put my first 3 coats of clear on today. Tomorrow another 4 and next day another 5.

Will try to emulate the deep lacquered look they have.

IMG_20210113_120646_526.jpg

Edited by chefsinc
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7 hours ago, chefsinc said:

No I think I will leave without a grill.not a fan of those piano wire ones they have.

Actually this build has elements of the older ones and newer Amati. Tried to mix the models up a bit to keep it looking current.

Put my first 3 coats of clear on today. Tomorrow another 4 and next day another 5.

Will try to emulate the deep lacquered look they have.

IMG_20210113_120646_526.jpg

 

Very nice

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