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3 hours ago, aussievintage said:

 

The main thing I worried about was incompatibility between different glues.  Also, it will be much neater.

 

I recall now using a product, based on citrus oil, to remove some of the gummy glue, but then you need to clean off the oil with alcohol.

Acetone was the trick.  Most of the glue removal on the baskets was mechanical (pocket knife), cleaned up with acetone no problem.  The cones are polypropylene so I got a bit savage on them with the acetone and they cleaned up perfectly in the end.  Glue is supposed to take 4 hours but ain't nobody got time for that.  I'm listening now absolutely beautiful.

 

The little Janssons are nice, polite little speakers perfect for desktop listening.  Much more bass extension now with the correct drivers in them.  No noises (yay) so the suck-it-and-see method of centring the cones seems good enough.

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59 minutes ago, Old Man Rubber said:

Acetone was the trick.  Most of the glue removal on the baskets was mechanical (pocket knife), cleaned up with acetone no problem.  The cones are polypropylene so I got a bit savage on them with the acetone and they cleaned up perfectly in the end.  Glue is supposed to take 4 hours but ain't nobody got time for that.  I'm listening now absolutely beautiful.

 

The little Janssons are nice, polite little speakers perfect for desktop listening.  Much more bass extension now with the correct drivers in them.  No noises (yay) so the suck-it-and-see method of centring the cones seems good enough.

 

 

 

Great.  Very good job on the cleanup too.

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1 hour ago, aussievintage said:

 

Great.  Very good job on the cleanup too.

It was good advice to do a proper clean, made the glue up an absolute doddle.  The kit itself was impressive although the glue sticks were confusing, I didn't realise I had to wind the end to push the glue through the brush.

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Next question - what should I do with these?  I'm not sure they can be repaired the voice coils are blown.  I have been running these speakers without the crossover/tweeter although since I fixed the Janssons I can now have a proper crack at them.

 

Any suggestions for replacement tweeters?  They are some kind of fabric dome thing but anything I can adapt to the plastic face plate will work.  Speakers don't have to remain original they are completely had it cosmetically and repainted - original bass ports are missing so I ordered a couple from China in the hope that I can adapt them to the box dimensions.

 

Keen to get these going for the deck/outdoor stereo I will be putting outside which was the original plan for the Janssons but they are now too nice for that 🙂

20201104_100840.jpg

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2 hours ago, Old Man Rubber said:

Next question - what should I do with these?  I'm not sure they can be repaired the voice coils are blown.  I have been running these speakers without the crossover/tweeter although since I fixed the Janssons I can now have a proper crack at them.

 

Any suggestions for replacement tweeters?  They are some kind of fabric dome thing but anything I can adapt to the plastic face plate will work.  Speakers don't have to remain original they are completely had it cosmetically and repainted - original bass ports are missing so I ordered a couple from China in the hope that I can adapt them to the box dimensions.

 

Keen to get these going for the deck/outdoor stereo I will be putting outside which was the original plan for the Janssons but they are now too nice for that 🙂

20201104_100840.jpg

Do a Molly (“do yourself a favour”), bin them. Altronics has good tweeters off the shelf. And make/get a suitable Xovers. 

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About 20 years ago I ordered two boxes of trannies from the Queensland toroid transformer company. Most were big potted high voltage trannies for tube amps and other were 5K 10W OPTs. I’ve used none of them at all. 
 

Can you see where there this may be an issue. They don’t place air gaps in the OPTs or they didn’t then. Even at very low powers they saturated. 
 

But The OPTs make good step trannies. After lots of stuffing around I can feed 12V into the 8ohm secondaries and get 274V out - unloaded. I need about 10mA in my 6SN7 tube preamps at about 250V for the HT. 
 

Loading the 274VAC up for 10mAs gave me 266VAC and once rectified a hell of a lot more. By adding a 12VAC 1A Tranni to the OPT setup I can now use up these well made OPTs in the PSs for tube headphone amps or preamps where high voltage low current is required. 

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C5E92D63-652E-4D7D-A995-897D9AC11E6D.jpeg

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25 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

 

Loading the 274VAC up for 10mAs gave me 266VAC and once rectified a hell of a lot more. By adding a 12VAC 1A Tranni to the OPT setup I can now use up these well made OPTs in the PSs for tube headphone amps or preamps where high voltage low current is required. 

 

 

Is that...maths?  

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Sold my spare pair of Altec horns yesterday sans FaitalPro drivers. Lucky I have a pair of new Tractrix Elliptical wave guides. About to have a listen this arvo with Beyma 12” woofers. Another Salt Cellar setup. 

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272AFBC6-25B8-46DA-991C-EC56EAFCBEC2.jpeg

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Not strictly audio related - gluing a couple of timber cheeks to the sides of the DVD player I use as a CD player in my retro system.  A length of pre-oiled timber from bunnings, not quite the right height but now the CD player will be a similar width to the Marantz SR4000 and fits the vibe a bit better.  Still waiting for the SD4000 tape deck to return from my tech but will have to source some rack ears for it (or fake some up) to achieve a similar look.  Might timber slab it instead - it has rack ear mounts and would just use silicon as the glue so it was no damage/ removable.

 

In retrospect it seems a trifle silly but the different widths of the equipment annoyed me in a system that is supposed to be partly about the look and this will do that for a total cost of $8 while I wait for a suitable CD player to appear.

 

20201109_140538.jpg

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I had some request earlier in the year for tube based phono stages. I have built a few in the past but this year was unable to find the Greek Radi0kit kits I was using. I found them. 
 

Also they make a 250V HT/12V regulated kit for low power tube projects. I can make these myself for the same price but takes nearly a week from scratch. These PS kits can be assembled in an afternoon. And not as fiddely. 


I have a tube MM phono stage but have ordered another phono kit also to go with one of these PSs. The MM kit has all high end parts and in the past have always sounded excellent. 
 

https://www.freebytes.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=259_283&products_id=1674

 

https://www.freebytes.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=259_283&products_id=1675

 

 

 

FF1EF5BB-FE5D-4713-9AE7-22D6D50AF155.jpeg

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2 hours ago, mwhouston said:

The MM kit has all high end parts and in the past have always sounded excellent. 

The kit comes with high end parts? or you used high end parts?

 

I'm confused :unsure:

 

RK-318psd.jpg.16682964fc753ed57d1eb7c261b64698.jpg

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1 hour ago, muon* said:

The kit comes with high end parts? or you used high end parts?

 

I'm confused :unsure:

 

RK-318psd.jpg.16682964fc753ed57d1eb7c261b64698.jpg

The image say it all. It comes as in the image. You can buy the same kit with cheaper parts but not for me. You can see, dale, Wima, Nichicon   and CDE. Ceramic socket. Even the JJ tube is a real good match.

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50 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

The image say it all. It comes as in the image. You can buy the same kit with cheaper parts but not for me. You can see, dale, Wima, Nichicon   and CDE. Ceramic socket. Even the JJ tube is a real good match.

I see :thumb:

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On 08/11/2020 at 12:08 PM, mwhouston said:

Another mono Salt Cellar setup.

C42F85FB-6765-4E5A-9FBC-731079A102CA.jpeg

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Thoughts? How does the waveguide perform? 
 

I am currently considering hf108r, de250, Cdx1746 compression drivers. 

h6512, and faital waveguides. 
 

Looking at using a faital 12pr300, augmented with 15inch subs. 

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17 minutes ago, Grizaudio said:

Thoughts? How does the waveguide perform? 
 

I am currently considering hf108r, de250, Cdx1746 compression drivers. 

h6512, and faital waveguides. 
 

Looking at using a faital 12pr300, augmented with 15inch subs. 

I’m not sure they have the presentation the Altec 511Bs had with the same drivers. But enjoyable and very efficient. 

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1 hour ago, Grizaudio said:

Thoughts? How does the waveguide perform? 
 

I am currently considering hf108r, de250, Cdx1746 compression drivers. 

h6512, and faital waveguides. 
 

Looking at using a faital 12pr300, augmented with 15inch subs. 

I have the HF108r with the qsc clone waveguides and it's an amazing combination, crossed over to a pair of 15pr400's

 

The only downside is that I'm trying to cross them over at about 1100hz, and the faitals have a big impedance peak, so I have a pair of peerless dfm-2535 on their way from parts express. 

 

I could happily live with the sound of the hf108r in this setup, but I keep pursuing perfection

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13 minutes ago, oohms said:

I have the HF108r with the qsc clone waveguides and it's an amazing combination, crossed over to a pair of 15pr400's

 

The only downside is that I'm trying to cross them over at about 1100hz, and the faitals have a big impedance peak, so I have a pair of peerless dfm-2535 on their way from parts express. 

 

I could happily live with the sound of the hf108r in this setup, but I keep pursuing perfection

I have been trying to locate some QSC clone waveguides. 
https://www.parts-express.com/b-52-phrn-1014-1-horn-10-x-14-bolt-on--299-2303


Not an easy task. They seem to be discontinued @ parts express. 

I would be very keen to hear about your impressions of the tympathy drivers. 

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15 minutes ago, Grizaudio said:

Also are you running an active dsp for crossover? 

 

Sad to hear about the waveguides being discontinued, I only got these a couple of months ago

I am running passive at the moment but have run them active before. This is the current prototype xo:

IMG_20201111_234508.thumb.jpg.2b5f54318b566c84147bbeb023d5a658.jpg

 

IMG_20201111_234528.thumb.jpg.831e6329d52dbeff24bec37a015004c9.jpg

 

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A 180W Class D integrated with tube preamp for a fellow SNA member who lost more than his stereo in the last round of bush fires. Two inputs. 
 

Many days to build and waited a month for parts from OS but worth it when they play music at first on.
 

When testing I add 100ohm (or there abouts) resistors in series with the speakers for safety. And here brought up slow with a VARIAC. There was no need to worry. Strong bassy sound. 

 

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On 11/11/2020 at 11:48 PM, oohms said:

 

Sad to hear about the waveguides being discontinued, I only got these a couple of months ago

I am running passive at the moment but have run them active before. This is the current prototype xo:

IMG_20201111_234508.thumb.jpg.2b5f54318b566c84147bbeb023d5a658.jpg

 

IMG_20201111_234528.thumb.jpg.831e6329d52dbeff24bec37a015004c9.jpg

 

 

I'm itching to make something similar. 

I'm really bummed about the waveguide being discontinued.

 

Have you tried pairing both 1.4inch compression V's 1inch with the 15pr400?  

It would be my assumption a 1.4inch would work better? 

I.e. HF108r v's HF146? 

 

The HF201 looks great to:

https://faitalpro.com/en/products/HF_Drivers/product_details/index.php?id=502030155

 

The new SB acoustic compression drivers also look great value:

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/sb-audience-1-compression-driver-50w/sb-audience-range/sb-acoustics/speaker-drivers/audio-speakers-pa/bianco-44cd-pk-89862/1002195/pd/

 

Honestly, I'm stuck in decision phase.

15pr400 V's 12pr300 with dual subs. 

 

I suspect with a bit of PEQ I would be happy with the 15pr400's bass response. 

 

I recently acquired a Firstwatt F7, which I was hoping to run on the compression horn (I suspect this will sound magic).

I was then thinking a decent class AB @ 12-14db gain for the woofer. maybe even a 1ET400a purifi in gain free mode. 

 

I sit near field, so I need a hiss/noise free system. 

The Firstwatt F7 is absolutely noise/hiss free in passive mode, running some three ways atm. 

 

I am yet to find a DSP I can say the same about. 

Any pointers/advice would be great.  

  

 

 

 

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The 1 inch vs 1.4 inch compression driver is a tradeoff between crossover frequency and treble extension.  Some 1.4"/2" drivers have good treble, the HF144/146 are supposed to be amongst them, but at the same time you need a larger horn to cross lower

 

The 15PR400 can play fine up to 4khz, which we tested at an audio night by sweeping the crossover to large horn mids between 400hz and 4khz and the sound signature remained the same. The directivity does start narrowing earlier for the larger 15 inch driver, so I wanted to cross it to the 1" horn as close to 1khz as possible for it to match the directivity of the QSC waveguide

 

Regarding the woofer choice, if you are ok with large cabinets (say 180-220 liters) then the 15PR400 will go down to 35hz or so, and mine go down to 30, but they are also in the corners of the room

 

For use with valve amps, the 15PR400 in large cabs and passive crossovers will let you do that, with minimal external gear.

 

Check out the Calpamos, if you want something that has already been designed and built

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Calpamos.pdf

Edited by oohms
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6 minutes ago, oohms said:

The 1 inch vs 1.4 inch compression driver is a tradeoff between crossover frequency and treble extension.  Some 1.4"/2" drivers have good treble, the HF144/146 are supposed to be amongst them, but at the same time you need a larger horn to cross lower

 

The 15PR400 can play fine up to 4khz, which we tested at an audio night by sweeping the crossover to large horn mids between 400hz and 4khz and the sound signature remained the same. The directivity does start narrowing earlier for the larger 15 inch driver, so I wanted to cross it to the 1" horn as close to 1khz as possible for it to match the directivity of the QSC waveguide

 

Regarding the woofer choice, if you are ok with large cabinets (say 180-220 liters) then the 15PR400 will go down to 35hz or so, and mine go down to 30, but they are also in the corners of the room

 

For use with valve amps, the 15PR400 in large cabs and passive crossovers will let you do that, with minimal external gear.

 

Check out the Calpamos, if you want something that has already been designed and built

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Calpamos.pdf

 

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the link. I have read that one. Hence my HF201 suggestion. 

 

Its good to know your having a positive time with the 15pr400, and HF108r pairing.

I think the best way forward is to simply make a choice and jump in. Its a journey after all. ;) 

 

FYI.... A few articles I have read, demonstrate the HF108r to have significant distortion around 1khz. Indicating it would be better suited at a 12-8inch woofer pairing. Which is why I was curious about the pairing. 

 

Looking at its distortion charts, distortion exponentially increases below 1200-1300khz to what are audible levels/%'s.

 

@1khz the HF108r gets up around 5%-6% distortion. Which is quite high. 

 

I am looking for a low distortion design, so will probably stick with a 1.4inch-2 inch compression driver, loaded in a horn to 800hz or so (Subject to directivity matching). 

I'll look to correct frequency response with DSP. 

 

https://audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-faital-pro-hf108r-compression-driver

image.thumb.png.c67990b68ea61f4343aae41198b80a3c.png

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Grizaudio said:

 

FYI.... A few articles I have read, demonstrate the HF108r to have significant distortion around 1khz. Indicating it would be better suited at a 12-8inch woofer pairing. Which is why I was curious about the pairing. 

 

Looking at its distortion charts, distortion exponentially increases below 1200-1300khz to what are audible levels/%'s.

 

 

Yep, probably from its 1khz resonance peak.. that's why i ordered the peerless drivers, they should be here in a couple of days


Additionally i was exploring the option of a midrange horn somewhere along the lines of Wayne Parnham's one that he uses with the Pi corner horns

Initially i ran massive horns on top from 300hz and up, but the treble was compromised

 

So depending on the results with the peerless driver, I'll either keep it a 2 way or make it a 3 way if all else fails

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Very impressive indeed. 

 

The Tymphany look like great drivers. 

Lots of positive reviews.... I guess on the right waveguide, they would sound great.

 

image.thumb.png.d70e158fa014bc8dd581eeb1d60b21a3.png

 

Response is similar to the Celestion:

The Celestion seems to have a pretty constant impedance.

image.thumb.png.8688d614895ced36b22cc3ba1b642103.png

https://celestion.com/product/53/cdx11445/

 

Another option if the Faital 10ak, although better suited for 8-10inch drivers by user accounts. 

https://faitalpro.com/en/products/HF_Drivers/product_details/index.php?id=502010110

image.thumb.png.9876f5648b5f9f22bbb05fe308a379b9.png

Edited by Grizaudio
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I never found out how to connect up that SC Pre I was given as a gift from one mate, so I gifted it to another mate who is very knowledgeable and he has made a nice job of it.

 

SC1.jpeg.992e6a528aadbd3676fb17278e8613e6.jpeg

 

Sitting atop his Minimax.

1355101131_SCandMinimax.jpeg.1d5e7aacf38becedc3b071562a00c28f.jpeg

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8 minutes ago, muon* said:

I never found out how to connect up that SC Pre I was given as a gift from one mate, so I gifted it to another mate who is very knowledgeable and he has made a nice job of it.

 

SC1.jpeg.992e6a528aadbd3676fb17278e8613e6.jpeg

 

Sitting atop his Minimax.

1355101131_SCandMinimax.jpeg.1d5e7aacf38becedc3b071562a00c28f.jpeg

The LDR feeds his build using T3 modules.

1772492520_T3amp.jpeg.0a0b9425de776e0f65be1d31c9b7d083.jpeg

 

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What started with a hum and buz is now playing clean and mean. Firstly the mains earth and signal earth were joined. Removing the mains earth from the signal earth got rid of the hum. My speakers are 90db efficient and any noise is heard. The whole chassis is earthed and fused. 
 

Moved some wiring near the pot around got rid of the buz. The big surprise was the the Con organ 12AU7 was chronically microphonic. You couldn’t even lightly tap the enclosure without producing a thump. Turning the amp off, which immediately disconnects the speakers (crowbar speaker protection on the T4 board ensures this), would produce a thump. 
 

Replacing the tube with a newish Raytheon tube and Teflon tube damper fixed this 100%. I have to tap hard on the tube to get any noise at all through the amp. Not only that the Raytheon is a hell of a lot clearer. Dearer but much better.

 

Now off to the new owner tomorrow. I’m missing it already. 

945D2C7B-1B12-427A-9FBC-9CD67C23C014.jpeg

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So far I am super impressed. Better midrange, super controlled bass, more live like vocal, hearing few notes I didn’t hear before comparing with ps audio perfect wave. Need few more days though to do more comparison.

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I sold mine. I found it’s implementation had a high noise floor. Tube microphonics etc. 

 

I much prefer my RME ADI in my current system. My Firstwatt f7 adds nice smoothness and tone to the sound. 
 

I might be looking to a motu8 or okto dac8 yet, as I look to go active with roon. 
 

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Here are a few new images of “Succinct-II” also my blog posting. Still sorting a few things out with the amp but I’m extremely pleased with the sound. If I didn’t have my DIY 300W Holton this amp wouldn’t be going anywhere. In the flesh it looks quite compact and even sexy. 
 

http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2020/11/succinct-ii-integrated-180w-class-d-amp.html

 

6EEC74A1-ACD7-4281-898D-C8D7B0FD2111.jpeg

6355A44F-A620-4734-9499-61E669C79C87.jpeg

2BBC50C8-8952-4F4B-8D16-C5F022209122.jpeg

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1 hour ago, mwhouston said:

Here are a few new images of “Succinct-II” also my blog posting. Still sorting a few things out with the amp but I’m extremely pleased with the sound. If I didn’t have my DIY 300W Holton this amp wouldn’t be going anywhere. In the flesh it looks quite compact and even sexy. 
 

http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2020/11/succinct-ii-integrated-180w-class-d-amp.html

 

6EEC74A1-ACD7-4281-898D-C8D7B0FD2111.jpeg

6355A44F-A620-4734-9499-61E669C79C87.jpeg

2BBC50C8-8952-4F4B-8D16-C5F022209122.jpeg

Very clean look front panel appearance with all the trick Tube/D class work hidden.

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2 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Here are a few new images of “Succinct-II” also my blog posting. Still sorting a few things out with the amp but I’m extremely pleased with the sound. If I didn’t have my DIY 300W Holton this amp wouldn’t be going anywhere. In the flesh it looks quite compact and even sexy. 
 

 

6355A44F-A620-4734-9499-61E669C79C87.jpeg

 

 

Nice-looking case, Mark.  :thumb:

 

Where do you get them from ... and do they have different sizes?

 

Andy

 

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