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Some maybe interested in the Salt Cellar thread. Suggest you read the article first. It will make more sense. 
 

 

 

Edited by mwhouston
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Stereo Subs & Two Way Monitor Build   It’s been slow going on my two way monitor with stereo sub build but I’ve finally finished finished one of the two subs!!!   The subs are 10inch CSS drive

Finally finished my 6sn7 preamp. 😀 not a bad outcome considering 50% material was recycled. Thanks a lot mwhouston for schematics.

Thanks Pete Sure! Pretty much just used common spray acrylics (cans) for the whole job. Not shy of using 2k but just trying to save on costs.  After the cabs where routed i gave th

As famously said in Jaws....im gonna need a bigger boat case 😁

 

The 3U chassis is proving to be quite the challenge with regards to squeezing in all the Holton goodies. My plans of mounting the PS's to the heatsinks was quickly ended once I did an initial eyeball of the situation so onto plan B & C.

 

Plan B was to mount the power supplies to the bottom of the chassis instead like this with the control module mounted above the transformers.

 

20200626_093257.thumb.jpg.225abf5dfa5c290818c48c43baa803f6.jpg

 

 

Plan C was to stack the transformers and mount the PS's either side. This imo made for a neater arrangement  however the stacked transformers rose like Mt. Olympus above the chassis! Hmmm

20200626_093123.thumb.jpg.a8ab905571e1fe717b8a1184b388b0c0.jpg

 

Only way to solve was to drop the floor a few cm which ment cutting some alloy channel like this.

20200626_151020.thumb.jpg.648102688ef08e15b68b46e26415e077.jpg

 

That's much better...

20200626_151958.thumb.jpg.fd4be9d07d5faac18d5defd4cb5ec4ad.jpg

 

20200626_152023.thumb.jpg.169d2f4bfa421e6d00e409e6bcb7de45.jpg

 

20200626_152036.thumb.jpg.bc0d8a2bc216c468ab8677edddcbe5a4.jpg

 

Rather than trying to hide this "dropped" floor im instead going to make it a hilighlight so devilish red it shall be but that's a job for the w/e.

20200626_151736.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tubularbells
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38 minutes ago, Tubularbells said:

As famously said in Jaws....im gonna need a bigger boat case 😁

 

20200626_093123.thumb.jpg.a8ab905571e1fe717b8a1184b388b0c0.jpg

 

Nice Doug - but why are the transistors going to be mounted so high on the heatsinks?

 

These girls are going to pump the power and this is electronics, not plumbing.  Heat flows up, not down!  I believe you should have the transistors mounted in the lower third of the heatsink, not the top third.

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1 minute ago, Red MacKay said:

 

Nice Doug - but why are the transistors going to be mounted so high on the heatsinks?

 

These girls are going to pump the power and this is electronics, not plumbing.  Heat flows up, not down!  I believe you should have the transistors mounted in the lower third of the heatsink, not the top third.

 

Good callout however since dropping the floor by 30mm the Mosfets will be positioned right at the heart of the heatsink like a wooden stake through a vampire! Not anticipating any heat related issues here mate.

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Guest jakeyb77
1 hour ago, Tubularbells said:

As famously said in Jaws....im gonna need a bigger boat case 😁

 

The 3U chassis is proving to be quite the challenge with regards to squeezing in all the Holton goodies. My plans of mounting the PS's to the heatsinks was quickly ended once I did an initial eyeball of the situation so onto plan B & C.

 

Plan B was to mount the power supplies to the bottom of the chassis instead like this with the control module mounted above the transformers.

 

20200626_093257.thumb.jpg.225abf5dfa5c290818c48c43baa803f6.jpg

 

 

Plan C was to stack the transformers and mount the PS's either side. This imo made for a neater arrangement  however the stacked transformers rose like Mt. Olympus above the chassis! Hmmm

20200626_093123.thumb.jpg.a8ab905571e1fe717b8a1184b388b0c0.jpg

 

Only way to solve was to drop the floor a few cm which ment cutting some alloy channel like this.

20200626_151020.thumb.jpg.648102688ef08e15b68b46e26415e077.jpg

 

That's much better...

20200626_151958.thumb.jpg.fd4be9d07d5faac18d5defd4cb5ec4ad.jpg

 

20200626_152023.thumb.jpg.169d2f4bfa421e6d00e409e6bcb7de45.jpg

 

20200626_152036.thumb.jpg.bc0d8a2bc216c468ab8677edddcbe5a4.jpg

 

Rather than trying to hide this "dropped" floor im instead going to make it a hilighlight so devilish red it shall be but that's a job for the w/e.

20200626_151736.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tower of Power 

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2 hours ago, Tubularbells said:

As famously said in Jaws....im gonna need a bigger boat case 😁

 

The 3U chassis is proving to be quite the challenge with regards to squeezing in all the Holton goodies. My plans of mounting the PS's to the heatsinks was quickly ended once I did an initial eyeball of the situation so onto plan B & C.

 

Plan B was to mount the power supplies to the bottom of the chassis instead like this with the control module mounted above the transformers.

 

20200626_093257.thumb.jpg.225abf5dfa5c290818c48c43baa803f6.jpg

 

 

 

What's wrong with the above concept ... if you simply rotate each Holton amp board 180 deg (so the MOSFETs are pointing downwards)?

 

2 hours ago, Tubularbells said:

 

Plan C was to stack the transformers and mount the PS's either side. This imo made for a neater arrangement  however the stacked transformers rose like Mt. Olympus above the chassis! Hmmm

 

20200626_093123.thumb.jpg.a8ab905571e1fe717b8a1184b388b0c0.jpg

 

 

Shirley, it is not a good thing to stack toroids like that?  :o

 

Andy

 

 

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5 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

Shirley, it is not a good thing to stack toroids like that?  

 

Andy

 

 

 

And why do you say that?

 

IMO won't make a beesdick of difference as opposed to using an equivalent 2kv torrioid.

 

Think about what the main advantage of a toroid brings.

 

 

 

Edited by Tubularbells
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3 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

What's wrong with the above concept ... if you simply rotate each Holton amp board 180 deg (so the MOSFETs are pointing downwards)?

 

 

Just now, Tubularbells said:

 

And why do you that?

 

 

So the heat is extracted at the middle of the heatsinks - not the top.

 

2 hours ago, Tubularbells said:

Plan C was to stack the transformers and mount the PS's either side. This imo made for a neater arrangement  however the stacked transformers rose like Mt. Olympus above the chassis! Hmmm

 

20200626_093123.thumb.jpg.a8ab905571e1fe717b8a1184b388b0c0.jpg

 

 

 

 

I then commented about the stacked toroids.

 

Just now, Tubularbells said:

 

IMO won't make a bee's dick of difference as opposed to using an equivalent 2kv toroid.

 

 

You may well be correct - my electrical knowledge is not sufficiently advanced, to know one way or the other.  :)

 

Andy

 

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1 minute ago, andyr said:

 

So the heat is extracted at the middle of the heatsinks - not the top.

 

 

Red had the same concern so kindly read my response to him.

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Why not mount the transformers on their sides (vertically with angle bracket support or front faces mount) to not waste space - if the diameters are bigger than the 3U height (140mm high?), then add the small bottom spacer to fit.

 

Mount the  2 power supply pcbs vertically with their 2 bottom faces (underneath surfaces) mounted on common central vertical support bracket and position the whole assembly front-to-back.  Or maybe mount the 2 power supply pcbs one above the other if it fits.  Maybe other ways too ...

 

The extra small control pcb can be mounted vertically in front of the 2 vertical transformer (extra bracket screwed/ mounted on transformer mounting bolts, for example.

 

There's still space on the back panel to mount a possible protection board

 

A bit of lateral thinking here will probably devise better ways than this too.

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Transistors recommended height of transistor body centre on heatsinks is 40% from bottom.  This is the centre of the metal face of the transistor, not the mounting hole - you could use 4 "dual transistor mounting pressure clips" each side  for this to save drill & taps

 

You need quite a bit of ventilation holes/openings in both bottom and top covers

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Well the drugs I took yesterday have worn off (kidding) so have abandoned the transformer stack approach as planned last page and have reverted back to my original plan B which is a more traditional design approach not needing any chassis mods. Control module will be mounted to the front faceplate somehow and power amp modules will be mounted upside down in the heatsinks as centrally as room allows.

 

Power supply now mounted to the bottom chassis plate.

 

20200627_155014.thumb.jpg.90eff67ae43d30001a50c98deb7378e0.jpg

 

20200627_155038.thumb.jpg.8d1fd6bc8681e79bad5ac22c521d6069.jpg

 

20200627_155839.thumb.jpg.6f60d9afaf6e7d00c5481c58f1dac1c8.jpg

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13 minutes ago, Tubularbells said:

 

Well the drugs I took yesterday have worn off (kidding) so have abandoned the transformer stack approach as planned last page and have reverted back to my original plan B which is a more traditional design approach not needing any chassis mods. Control module will be mounted to the front faceplate somehow and power amp modules will be mounted upside down in the heatsinks as centrally as room allows.

 

Power supply now mounted to the bottom chassis plate.

 

 

So you're now doing what @Red MacKay and I suggested?  :P

 

Andy

 

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Guest jakeyb77
8 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I don’t see an issue with Tranni stacking. 

Careful  😂

Edited by jakeyb77
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The timing’s no good for me but I just got an email saying the Amp Camp Amp parts kits is back in stock at the DIYaudio store, in case someone was thinking about getting one

 

@cram

Edited by RankStranger
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Dual-output Studer 900-based power supply kit that I ordered from China at the start of lockdown and arrived yesterday and I literally couldn’t wait to get a start on it. The transformer is still stuck in transit but I’m pretty sure it’s at least in Australia.

 

They are going to drive my Raspberry Pi and Allo Boss DAC, probably all in the one chassis, although I’m still working out the logistics of that

 

I planned to have a bit more knowledge under my belt before it arrived but, you know how these things go, so I’m putting it together like LEGO without instructions and crossing my fingers that it’s all the right stuff. 

29C60B54-0356-4018-8952-45499ABA65F3.jpeg.39aa92df7ab299afc03dc58a3b9966e2.jpeg197F2D75-AAA9-4EC9-8286-46F46BCBE57F.jpeg.a969aa305db50fb529e96cb7bfe4c672.jpeg

 

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1 hour ago, RankStranger said:

Dual-output Studer 900-based power supply kit that I ordered from China at the start of lockdown and arrived yesterday and I literally couldn’t wait to get a start on it. The transformer is still stuck in transit but I’m pretty sure it’s at least in Australia.imageproxy.php?img=&key=6052995cfa95af68

 

They are going to drive my Raspberry Pi and Allo Boss DAC, probably all in the one chassis, although I’m still working out the logistics of that

 

I planned to have a bit more knowledge under my belt before it arrived but, you know how these things go, so I’m putting it together like LEGO without instructions and crossing my fingers that it’s all the right stuff. 

29C60B54-0356-4018-8952-45499ABA65F3.jpeg.39aa92df7ab299afc03dc58a3b9966e2.jpeg197F2D75-AAA9-4EC9-8286-46F46BCBE57F.jpeg.a969aa305db50fb529e96cb7bfe4c672.jpeg

 

It's a good idea to try and do some reading about soldering techniques before you start soldering too.

 

The Basic flow of the operation is:

1) Clean the solder side of the board with isopropyl alcohol, and avoid touching it with your fingers afterwards.

2) Prepare component leads (clean and bend with appropriate stress relief and bend radius and width to fit the holes.

3) Insert the leads into the holes paying attention to component orientation.

4) Bend the leads outward slightly to hold the component in position. (unless you're doing clinched joints)

5) Trim the lead length to about twice the diameter of the lead , beyond the solder pad.

6) Solder the leads paying attention to good practices. This will be evident if you read the links I'll post below, especially the inspection pictures.

7) Once the board is finished, clean any flux residue, and coat board with protective spray of some kind.

Something like this PCB Lacquer

 

Whether you want to go as full on as some of the things in these, is up to you. But you may want to take note of things like lead bending geometry and maybe improve a few of yours, where they are pulled down hard to the lead hole..

 

Some good examples of techniques and pictures:

http://www.sal.wisc.edu/docs/Soldering Basics.pdf

 

NASA Guide. This is pretty old, but shows good techniques.

 

Have fun :)

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@bob_m_54Thanks for the info, Bob

 

I’m ok good at soldering. I’ve done plenty of it before, though mostly just Jaycar kits a long time ago and recapping an amp more recently. I’m not super worried about that, it’s just the electrical engineering side of it that I’m pretty clueless on.

 

I’ll check out the links though. Partly to give myself a refresher and partly because 90s NASA!

 

Cheers, Simon

Edited by RankStranger
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Looks like a pretty cool kit.  +1 for checking before soldering.
And just in case . . . the board isn't symmetrical left to right and I would have another look at the transistor to the right of where the right hand electro cap is going to go. If in doubt try to follow the circuitry for symmetry, rather than teh board layout.

Gibbo

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3 hours ago, gibbo9000 said:

Looks like a pretty cool kit.  +1 for checking before soldering.
And just in case . . . the board isn't symmetrical left to right and I would have another look at the transistor to the right of where the right hand electro cap is going to go. If in doubt try to follow the circuitry for symmetry, rather than teh board layout.

Gibbo

Good pickup on the transistor.

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5 hours ago, gibbo9000 said:

Looks like a pretty cool kit.  +1 for checking before soldering.
And just in case . . . the board isn't symmetrical left to right and I would have another look at the transistor to the right of where the right hand electro cap is going to go. If in doubt try to follow the circuitry for symmetry, rather than teh board layout.

Gibbo

Ooh, good spot! Thanks :)  That’s what you get for stuffing PCBs at 130am instead of sleeping. I’ll double check everything for sure. 
 

one thing I did notice is the there are spots for 2 x 15R resistors on the board but I didn’t get any in the kit. The only ones I have left over anywhere near that is a couple of 8R ones. I know there can be variations but that seems too far off. Do I go pick up some 15R ones or should I try to find out if they were deliberately subbed in?

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The Studer supply is pretty generic so shouldn't present any surprises - been around for long time - if you ask the kit supplier for the circuit they'll probably send it to you straight away - suggest you upgrade the big Nover power caps if that's sent.

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I had 8x Nover power caps from a kit in the parts box for several years, they leaked while stored there.

Edited by muon*
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1 hour ago, HdB said:

The Studer supply is pretty generic so shouldn't present any surprises - been around for long time - if you ask the kit supplier for the circuit they'll probably send it to you straight away - suggest you upgrade the big Nover power caps if that's sent.

Thanks, I’ll ask. 

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12 minutes ago, muon* said:

I had 8x Nover power caps from a kit in the parts box for several years, they leaked while stored there.

Yikes

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They came with one of those Chinese clone Naim NAP kits, so no idea if they were authentic Nover or not.

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3 hours ago, RankStranger said:

Ooh, good spot! Thanks :)  That’s what you get for stuffing PCBs at 130am instead of sleeping. I’ll double check everything for sure. 
 

one thing I did notice is the there are spots for 2 x 15R resistors on the board but I didn’t get any in the kit. The only ones I have left over anywhere near that is a couple of 8R ones. I know there can be variations but that seems too far off. Do I go pick up some 15R ones or should I try to find out if they were deliberately subbed in?

Check every part again. Not a good sign. 

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On one of the ZeroZone power supplies kits, the S22 regulator (their version of the AMB Sigma 22)  they sent Novers - after a somewhat rude comment, they sent replacement Nichicons and I think are still using them - I tried to get some Supertech's from Taiwan but only bulk quantities.

 

A couple of tears ago, I sourced a whole stack of the "Elna for Audio" 12,000uF/63 from a guy in Djakarta that came from when one of the electronic companies closed down (Sony, Siemens, ..?) Extraordinary good power supply caps.

 

Full of trivia tonight!

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1 hour ago, muon* said:

They came with one of those Chinese clone Naim NAP kits, so no idea if they were authentic Nover or not.

I have no idea if mine are authentic or not 

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54 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

I have no idea if mine are authentic or not 

If the kit looks like quality as far as the PCB and stuff go they are likely OK.

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20 hours ago, muon* said:

I had 8x Nover power caps from a kit in the parts box for several years, they leaked while stored there.

If you'd been sitting in a box for that long, you'd probably need a leak too.. 🤣

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Unsure where to post this, but where will I find these carpet underlay style speaker damping sheets in Australia? Going to need a fair amount of it...

 

Similar to this:image.png.913430e6b67888e5b74408989aaf0831.png

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54 minutes ago, crtexcnndrm99 said:

Unsure where to post this, but where will I find these carpet underlay style speaker damping sheets in Australia? Going to need a fair amount of it...

 

Similar to this:image.png.913430e6b67888e5b74408989aaf0831.png

Nigel at Speakerbug sells polyfill as well as the felt-like sheeting you have pictured. He is at Mount Ommaney

 

www.speakerbug.com.au

Edited by kelossus
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