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I've just completed a new speaker build this morning. Stand mount/Book shelf.

 

18mm Hardwood Ply, damped with heavy wool carpet + egg crate foam.

PU expanding glue, no screws.

Beeswax finish - no stain, natural wood colour.

Tang Band 8 ohm W3-1364S. Sealed in 1L enclosure.

Peerless 8 ohm HDS-P835025. Vented 18L, tuned to 50 Hz.

Xover - custom First order solen split - Jantzen caps & inductors. Xover point 800-900 Hz. Zobel on both drivers.

Front panel sprayed with pressure pack, Flat Iron colour.

 

IMG20200415075159.thumb.jpg.65449d25f8985765b5549055b96534f3.jpg

 

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Stereo Subs & Two Way Monitor Build   It’s been slow going on my two way monitor with stereo sub build but I’ve finally finished finished one of the two subs!!!   The subs are 10inch CSS drive

Just some little PC speakers.   Focal, Minidsp, Rotel...and CNC. Working From Home setup.    

Finally finished my 6sn7 preamp. ? not a bad outcome considering 50% material was recycled. Thanks a lot mwhouston for schematics.

27 minutes ago, Mushroom01 said:

I've just completed a new speaker build this morning. Stand mount/Book shelf.

 

18mm Hardwood Ply, damped with heavy wool carpet + egg crate foam.

PU expanding glue, no screws.

Beeswax finish - no stain, natural wood colour.

Tang Band 8 ohm W3-1364S. Sealed in 1L enclosure.

Peerless 8 ohm HDS-P835025. Vented 18L, tuned to 50 Hz.

Xover - custom First order solen split - Jantzen caps & inductors. Xover point 800-900 Hz. Zobel on both drivers.

Front panel sprayed with pressure pack, Flat Iron colour.

 

IMG20200415075159.thumb.jpg.65449d25f8985765b5549055b96534f3.jpg

 

IMG20200415075237.thumb.jpg.b3ec16ac17dca5f3b710783374b2ff3c.jpgIMG20200415110240.thumb.jpg.8ee731a50cbe7e130e144dc8752568bd.jpgIMG20200415110215.thumb.jpg.25eb9dbf4c205ce51bb17d0a8ac80ccf.jpgIMG20200415110326.thumb.jpg.d03a5576e0e7287c007d9dda520cc455.jpgIMG20200415110338.thumb.jpg.5e5fa817685e587669f041ac034f2b4a.jpgIMG20200415110255.thumb.jpg.89b73b05ebe0bc8ca368c73ce80bb764.jpg

I’ve felt in the past zobels have flattened dynamics. If it’s easy enough try with and without. Looks good but! Like the iron colour.  

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2 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I’ve felt in the past zobels have flattened dynamics. If it’s easy enough try with and without. Looks good but! Like the iron colour.  

Thanks for the tip! I didn't know that was possible. Xover is removable, so i could try with/without. 

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I am a big fan of WAW. Good work, love to see more & more of them popping up

 

Is that W8-1772 or 1808?

 

I have a pair of the little TB with the cyclindrical phase plug, found them quite colourful.

 

And foam is not a very good dampin gmaterial IME.

 

dave

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14 minutes ago, planet10 said:

I am a big fan of WAW. Good work, love to see more & more of them popping up

 

Is that W8-1772 or 1808?

 

I have a pair of the little TB with the cyclindrical phase plug, found them quite colourful.

 

And foam is not a very good dampin gmaterial IME.

 

dave

Thanks Dave.

1808, sealed into 24L. 

I really enjoy the signature sound of the TB drivers.

To me the vocals, brass, piano & string instruments sound spectacular!

I want to try the MA drivers one day, as I've not listed to these yet. I have the Frugal Horn XL plan I purchased about 4 years ago, but haven't built them yet.

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Mushroom01 said:

1808, sealed into 24L. 

 

 

...Frugal Horn XL ...

I prefer 1808 to the 1772, but i figure both are too pricey for what you get.

 

Do build the FHXL, you will add to the estimated 10k FH builds so far.

 

I have to get Alpair 11ms into my FHXL, and a set of A7ms into one of my FH3s.

 

Is your misspelling of Frugel due to auto-correct?sometimes it drives me crazy, i am a bad typer (took Grade 11 math instead of Grade 10 typinf thinkin gi would never need to do any typing and i get some wild sentences.

 

dave

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15 minutes ago, planet10 said:

Is your misspelling of Frugel due to auto-correct?sometimes it drives me crazy, i am a bad typer (took Grade 11 math instead of Grade 10 typinf thinkin gi would never need to do any typing and i get some wild sentences.

Yep, bloody auto correct.

 

My friend has the much cheaper W8-2145. It's very very close to the 1808 in performance. Good value imo. 

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Should you be inspired to make an OPA2134 based project element14 have genuine chips (at least according to the image) for $74 for ten. Also I bought their top of the range 8 pin sockets for $14 for ten. There are cheaper quality sockets for the sale but for a few dollars I went for the best. 
 

I wouldn’t buy from eBay suppliers because there are so many fakes these days. Stick with respected companies. I usually buy from RS but they are out of stock. 

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Don’t know about you but I get my inspiration to build from all sorts of strange places. First by accident I came across this schematic for E88CCs which I have a matched pair of Gold Lion gold pins. I’d bought these for someone who bought one of my early tube preamps and they wanted to upgrade the tubes. But when the tubes arrived they changed their mind. I got stuck with them.

 

Then while looking for spray paint (cans of which I have many) for my wife to spray a stool I came across this can of Deep Indian Red which I had only ever used on one project for another. At the time I though I’d like to use this colour for a new project. Then it hit me, the schematic, the tubes and now the paint. I also had a new spare Hammond chassis which I’d had for a while and most other parts including a pile of RCAs and ceramic sockets. Another quarentinie project? You bet! And a chance to use up parts which have been lying around for years. I already have my universal PS which serves a few other tube preamps. 

 

Chassis has been drilled and etch primed. Now for that Deep Indian Red top coat. In two days I can assemble. 
 

 

72FE9D8F-7A85-4D0F-92E9-45ADB3BD740D.jpeg

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For me it's no so much inspiration - more frustration with myself cos I'm so lazy.  I start all enthusiastic, collect all the parts bar one or two and then it all gets too hard and I just move to the next and do the same with that.  Sound familiar...

 

But a couple of months back at an audio buddy's place (before draconia kicked in) I heard something (a diy Jean Hirage 30w ClassA) that challenged a couple of my treasured audio 'sacred cows'. 

 

Well,  ..."If you can't beat them - join them."  The Hirage's  such a simple circuit and with quality driver and output kits so readily available from Jim's Audio - even an electronics novice like me can have a crack at it.  As everyone knows I have started this, there is no way I can duck my way out now!  A good thing really.

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Just before I build this can anyone see anything very wrong with the schematic. I’m not looking for  suggestions of any other cct. I have plenty but want to know if there is something really wrong with this. 
 

Ta! 

823FB825-18B8-426A-B330-17A03DD10E0C.gif

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That is Frank’s map that i recently posted. A decent circuit, can be finessed by adding a CCS on the top of the CC, and on the bottom of the CF.

 

dave

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2 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Just before I build this can anyone see anything very wrong with the schematic. I’m not looking for  suggestions of any other cct. I have plenty but want to know if there is something really wrong with this. 
 

Ta! 

823FB825-18B8-426A-B330-17A03DD10E0C.gif

 

 

Not that I do it every time, but,  are you aware of the problem at startup where the grid of the cathode follower gets exposed to full HT before it warms up and can result in arcing and damage?  There is a mod with a diode and resistor from grid to cathode to help with this.

 

Also, I don't like muting by shorting the AC output of the valve to ground !  Maybe a changeover switch that disconnects the output and then connects the output socket it to ground leaving the the valve working into a bit less than 20K impedance.

 

Don't know if you like cathode bypassing, but the first stage could obtain a little more gain if you do.

Edited by aussievintage
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I would never put the switch in. 
 

Thanks for the good suggestions so far. 
 

Ive built this before. Would this be better? I know is sounds really good. 

73A4701C-A0C1-4AA8-8AC0-6CF9442ADB4A.jpeg

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4 hours ago, planet10 said:

That is Frank’s map that i recently posted. A decent circuit, can be finessed by adding a CCS on the top of the CC, and on the bottom of the CF.

 

dave

CCS, not gunna appen. But Ta regardless! 

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9 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

Hard to tell without calibrated monitors and corrected white balance.   Did you want this Indian red ?? I wouldn't mind one:)

 

The Indian Scout 100th Anniversary Is a Collector Bike to Ride ...

The Oz version of this bike is called the “Indigenous”. 

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Today's small project was to give this baby amp a new lease of life.  I believe I have mentioned this amp here before, but anyway here it is as it currently looks with a photo.

 

It was one of the first SET amps I built years ago.  It uses a 6DJ8 dual triode as a driver, half on each channel,  and 6AQ5 power valves - well a 6005W  ruggedised version.  These are miniature 7 pin versions of the 6V6 you often see used in guitar amps (and some hifi).   They are wired as triodes and with the current power supply etc. they might struggle to put out as much as 2 watts on a good day.

 

I pulled it out of storage and cleaned up everything including the valve sockets and pins.  I have put it in my office system with some inefficient Dick Smith bookshelf speakers, but it has plenty of power for this use.    Still sounds as good as my recollection told me it did.  I just got wooed by the praise of popular valves used in things like the 2A3 SET amps at that time.    

 

IMG_20200422_123036_01.jpg.883f4f9e0b36eeb9ee7b6367d2e41e67.jpg

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Don’t knock 2W with the right speakers there’s plenty of tubey volume. My 6L6 SE UL Silver Supreme and 98db sensitive Beyma concentrics (currently in my main system) deliver plenty of volume. And dead quiet operation.

 

https://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2017/02/silver-supreme-6l6-se-ul-amp-in-wooden.html

 

https://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2014/07/voxconcentric-beyma-12-high-efficiency.html
 

 

 

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The speakers don’t need to be that efficient.

 

This fellow had a light turn on when he took his 45 SET down to the basement.

 

Post #1399 — this forum won’t let me paste the link in without jumpin gthru hoops :^(

 

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/246248-frugel-horn-xl-alpair-10-3-10p-fostex-ff165wk-post6172736.html

 

Makes me think i should hook up my Class A PP EL84 triode (massive 3.9w at clipping)

 

dave

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9 minutes ago, planet10 said:

The speakers don’t need to be that efficient.

 

This fellow had a light turn on when he took his 45 SET down to the basement.

 

Post #1399 — this forum won’t let me paste the link in without jumpin gthru hoops :^(

 

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/246248-frugel-horn-xl-alpair-10-3-10p-fostex-ff165wk-post6172736.html

 

Makes me think i should hook up my Class A PP EL84 triode (massive 3.9w at clipping)

 

dave

As Ive mentioned a few times, loud with 2W and Beymas. 

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1 hour ago, planet10 said:

The speakers don’t need to be that efficient.

 

These bookshelf speakers are not at all efficient.  Something like 85 db.  However, they sit on the top shelf of the back of the desktop where I am sitting, about 1 metre from my ears.     I am using the 2W amp at less than half volume most of the time.

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On 15/04/2020 at 4:34 PM, planet10 said:

Is your misspelling of Frugel due to auto-correct?

I took it to be a joke/pun name, the musical instrument called a Flugel Horn seemed a likely inspiration for the name (I have played in a brass band) ?

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Been a while since I’ve done a mid-night express. That is you have everything ready for the build but don’t start until very late in the evening and work though to 2 or 3am in the morn.  Watched all my TV shows, caught up on emails etc. and got into it. 

99% of all parts are from de lab. I only had to purchase two 5tag tag strips. The rest I already had. Tubes I’d had for far too many years - Gold Lion E88CC (6922). So just using up parts for a mid-night express quarentinie. A few whiskeys and a bottle of sparkling white got me through. Topology is SRPP (active load or totem pole). 
 

Very happy with the build as of yet untested. I have to balance the heater voltage from one of my universal tube PSs. HT will be OK.
 

In the build;

  • ceramic sockets
  • Gold Lion E88CC matched pair
  • ALPS Blue Velvet 250K pot
  • gold vintage style knob
  • Hammond chassis with wood cheeks
  • epoxy paint - Deep Indian Red
  • silver plated fine copper hookup wire
  • WBT silver (4%) solder
  • two selectable inputs
  • 4uf PIO final HT cap
  • BP Ck
  • Russian PIO output caps (2X0.47uf)
  • metal film Rs. 
  • PS is choke filtered and DC on heaters. 
     

 

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7 hours ago, planet10 said:

Good work, the knob, colour of the knob and the chassis are quite harmonious.

 

dave

Thanks. For me it’s form and function. I don’t believe you can have one without the other. Others wouldn’t agree. 

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37 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Thanks. For me it’s form and function. I don’t believe you can have one without the other. Others wouldn’t agree. 

Yep, I'm one of them.

 

I don't care what it looks like.  How does it sound?  That is what is important when I am building something.  I remember 15 years ago spending 100hrs making a pair of subwoofer boxes that were pretty - but the sound sucked bigtime.  Well that was 80hrs of my life I will never get back and a lot of effort and money wasted.

 

Sure - when you have something sorted, get it into nice enclosures and all safe as well, but this is not the priority for me.

 

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4 minutes ago, Red MacKay said:

Yep, I'm one of them.

 

I don't care what it looks like.  How does it sound?  That is what is important when I am building something.  I remember 15 years ago spending 100hrs making a pair of subwoofer boxes that were pretty - but the sound sucked bigtime.  Well that was 80hrs of my life I will never get back and a lot of effort and money wasted.

 

Sure - when you have something sorted, get it into nice enclosures and all safe as well, but this is not the priority for me.

 

I always build as if this is the final piece, no tweaks or alterations need. Of course should it perform poorly then alterations are made or it is completely pulled down.

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2 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

I always build as if this is the final piece, no tweaks or alterations need. Of course should it perform poorly then alterations are made or it is completely pulled down.

You are fortunate Mark.  Everything I build, never works to my SQ satisfaction first time around!

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Just now, Red MacKay said:

You are fortunate Mark.  Everything I build, never works to my SQ satisfaction first time around!

For me I start with a good schematic. One that’s proven. This one is one of Bruce’s from oddwatt so I know it is 100% researched, modelled and tested. I just have to get the build right and I’m guaranteed of a good sound. My parts will vary from his and construct probably very different but I know the schematic is sound.  I do know he likes his Russian PIO caps. The same I have used here (green ones).

 

Also I have built quite a number of SRPP preamps and know if the build and parts are good they really perform. 

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10 hours ago, planet10 said:

Good work, the knob, colour of the knob and the chassis are quite harmonious.

 

dave

Absolutely!  Marvelous looking work.  

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It took most of the morning to get the heater voltage right and have a listen. But it really sounds excellent, worked first try. I’ve built a number of SRPP preamps now and they always perform very well. As stated above most parts were laying around (and have been for many years) waiting to be used. The key parts, the tubes are Gold Lion E88CC/6922 which judging by the sound are a premium tube. Problem is with gold pins they are supper hard to get into ceramic sockets but worth the effort. Usually I use a non-gold pin tube first to loosen up the socket. 

 

Also feel the Russian PIO output caps do a good job for a few dollars each. And I have a whole box of them. I needed 1uf and had to use two 0.47uf caps. Ck is 100uf BP which has a really low ESR rating. Have to listen on phones as the wife is home and working but should get in my main rig tomorrow,

 

Some specs.

 

  • HT - 230V
  • Vf - 12.4 ( heaters in series)
  • Bias - 3V
  • Ip - 6.4mA.

E26E5B24-FF5C-4ECD-9017-23ACAA4458F9.jpeg

1848FF76-3E77-4BF8-A534-BBB5701CCDD8.jpeg

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59 minutes ago, Mushroom01 said:

Absolutely!  Marvelous looking work.  

Thanks mate. Fortunately it sounds even better than it looks. Love the Gold Lions, a real surprise. Never heard them before. 

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