DIY audio: what are you building?

[bob_m_54]

11 hours ago, RankStranger said:

Nah. I want to control it from where I’m sitting. If I could get it to work right in safari, that would be good enough. It doesn’t, though, and I’m over it for now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

That is strange, I find it works quite well in Firefox. What isn't working when you use it via Safari?

[RankStranger]

4 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said:

That is strange, I find it works quite well in Firefox. What isn't working when you use it via Safari?

Yep. It works fine in other browsers but I want to use safari because I can save it to the home screen to work like an app. In safari I can’t access the menus though. When I tap on configure nothing happens and when I try to manage queue it doesn’t respond properly. I’ve tried updating moode in place, reinstalling, a different micro sd card, everything I can think of. 

[bob_m_54]

2 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

Yep. It works fine in other browsers but I want to use safari because I can save it to the home screen to work like an app. In safari I can’t access the menus though. When I tap on configure nothing happens and when I try to manage queue it doesn’t respond properly. I’ve tried updating moode in place, reinstalling, a different micro sd card, everything I can think of. 

OK, I don't use Apple products, so not familiar with Safari. But it does sound more like a problem with safari, rather than Moode. Or maybe how Safari deals with scripts. Bit of a bummer though eh? I like the convenience of opening a browser page from my bookmarks, to control the Pi, when I'm on the computer.

[pwstereo]

11 hours ago, RankStranger said:

If I could get it to work right in safari, that would be good enough.

Is this on a phone or tablet?

Why not add a different browser like Chrome?

If it's on a computer, Chrome, or Firefox.

 

Although you can't Add To Home Screen, the way you can with Safari, you could make Moode your homepage for that browser, so launching the browser would give you Moode with one touch.

Edited July 14, 2020 by pwstereo
Added info

[RankStranger]

1 minute ago, bob_m_54 said:

OK, I don't use Apple products, so not familiar with Safari. But it does sound more like a problem with safari, rather than Moode. Or maybe how Safari deals with scripts. Bit of a bummer though eh? I like the convenience of opening a browser page from my bookmarks, to control the Pi, when I'm on the computer.

Yeah. Regardless of why, it’s frustrating enough that I can’t be ar$ed dealing with it now. I really like the Aries mini and lightning ds anyway so I’ll tackle moode again when I need another source. 

[RankStranger]

4 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

Is this on a phone or tablet?

Why not add a different browser like Chrome?

If it's on a computer, Chrome, or Firefox.

On an iPad. It works in other browsers but the functionality isn’t the same. I’m very particular about my control interface. It makes or breaks the experience for me

[aussievintage]

5 hours ago, RankStranger said:

I want to use safari because I can save it to the home screen to work like an app.

Chrome can do that, under Android.  It is a nice way to set it up.

[RankStranger]

Now that I have decided to put the Pi on the back burner, can anyone confirm for me whether I can use the transformer I bought (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30W-30VA-Primary-Input-0-115-230V-SCN-Secondary-Output-9V-12V-15V-18V-24V-R/33059551869.html) with two 9V outputs with the PSU board I bought (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STUDER900-Low-noise-rectifier-Regulator-power-supply-hifi-amplifier-dac-low-noise-power-supply-board-kits/4000849437245.html) to drive the Aries Mini at 16V 1A?

 

I know I’ll lose some voltage, I was expecting to drop from 9V to 5V in the previous design so I don’t know how to work out what transformer I need to get 16V. Is it 24V or will 2 x 9V do it somehow?

[pwstereo]

The two 9V windings in series is only 18V, that won't be enough for your 18V intended DC output.

2 x 12V in series or a 30V secondary would be more likely to work.

[mwhouston]

If you haven’t seen this on the Salt Cellar thread then here is the 807 triode strapped integrated power (2W) amp. 
 

Still under test but after fixing too many issues too mention (half  I caused) it’s playing. It mixes down stereo to mono. With the 98 dB sensitive Beyma concentrics it plays loud. Yet to mount the filtering system (includes 10H choke) inside. 

[RankStranger]

28 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

The two 9V windings in series is only 18V, that won't be enough for your 18V intended DC output.

2 x 12V in series or a 30V secondary would be more likely to work.

Thanks, Peter. From my reading on aliexpress, which seems too simple to be correct, if I have a 12V winding running into each side of the board, I can take the positive from one side and the negative from the other and that’s my DC output? Does that sound right? I’m sceptical 

[pwstereo]

40 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

Thanks, Peter. From my reading on aliexpress, which seems too simple to be correct, if I have a 12V winding running into each side of the board, I can take the positive from one side and the negative from the other and that’s my DC output? Does that sound right? I’m sceptical 

I don't know that PSU design. Normally the design is either a single rail, so 0V (ground) and a + xV rail.

Or some PSUs are dual rail, so 0V (ground) and a + xV rail and also a - xV rail.

[pwstereo]

@RankStranger

OK, I googled that PSU, it's a symmetrical dual rail board, so two AC inputs (the two 9V windings if you used your current transformer), and gives two DC rails out, a +V rail and a -V rail with a 0V centre.

 

[RankStranger]

7 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

@RankStranger

OK, I googled that PSU, it's a symmetrical dual rail board, so two AC inputs (the two 9V windings if you used your current transformer), and gives two DC rails out, a +V rail and a -V rail with a 0V centre.

 

Thanks. So if I get a 30VA, 2 x 12V or 2 x 15V out trans will that work for the Aries mini? How do I connect the +V and -V rails to the DC in to the mini 

 

Sorry, I’m really just starting to learn about this stuff. I appreciate your answers

Edited July 15, 2020 by RankStranger

[pwstereo]

2 hours ago, RankStranger said:

Thanks. So if I get a 30VA, 2 x 12V or 2 x 15V out trans will that work for the Aries mini? How do I connect the +V and -V rails to the DC in to the mini

I'm no expert, I've made a number of single rail PSUs, but no stand-alone dual rail PSUs.

As far as I can tell, you can connect the + wire for your load to the + xV connector on your PSU, and the - wire for your load to the - xV connector on your PSU and you'll have the sum of the two xV. So, +9V and -9V would give you 18V between the two rails.

 

There's an article on Dyode magazine's website that illustrates doing this with a PSU very similar to that Studer 900 PSU you've bought.

https://diyodemag.com/education/the_classroom_part_three_the_linear_power_supply

 

[RankStranger]

2 minutes ago, pwstereo said:

I'm no expert, I've made a number of single rail PSUs, but no stand-alone dual rail PSUs.

As far as I can tell, you can connect the + wire for your load to the + xV connector on your PSU, and the - wire for your load to the - xV connector on your PSU and you'll have the sum of the two xV. So, +9V and -9V would give you 18V between the two rails.

 

There's an article on Dyode magazine's website that illustrates doing this with a PSU very similar to that Studer 900 PSU you've bought.

https://diyodemag.com/education/the_classroom_part_three_the_linear_power_supply

 

That’s awesome. Thank, I’ll check it out  

[betocool]

@RankStranger @pwstereo Bear in mind guys that when they say 9V on a transformer, it's 9V RMS, which translates rougyly to +12V/-12V peak (Voltage x 1.44). Just so you're aware is all...

 

Cheers,

 

Alberto

[RankStranger]

Just now, betocool said:

@RankStranger @pwstereo Bear in mind guys that when they say 9V on a transformer, it's 9V RMS, which translates rougyly to +12V/-12V peak (Voltage x 1.44). Just so you're aware is all...

 

Cheers,

 

Alberto

Thanks. I think it’s all just clicked for me with that article. I’m going to order a 30VA transformer with 2 x 12V outs, which will give me 2 x 8V outputs, one +V and one -V giving me 16V! The thing in the article that made it make sense to me was thinking about it like a battery. In the meantime, my dad has a toroidal with 2 x 12V windings that I can experiment with. It’s something like 300VA and physically huge so I won’t use it long term but at least I can get it running and hopefully get any bugs ironed out in the board

[hyper]

3 hours ago, RankStranger said:

Thanks. So if I get a 30VA, 2 x 12V or 2 x 15V out trans will that work for the Aries mini? How do I connect the +V and -V rails to the DC in to the mini 

 

Sorry, I’m really just starting to learn about this stuff. I appreciate your answers

Rank, I read back a few post so apologies if I’ve missed anything. I suppose the first question is is there a perceived problem with the current PSU? 
 

I get that people like to run external linear PSUs for various kit, but I’m just wondering if there is anything you’ve notice that’s compelling you to change the supply? Or you just want to tinker

Trust me I get the want to tinker but it’s always good to start with an issue you want to resolve or at very least an understanding of how you are going to confirm it’s increased performance (outside our very unreliable ears). 
 

If it’s simple noise issue it might be something as easy as couple of cascading low ESR caps in front of the supply.

 

IMHO it maybe overkill without any real benefit when the PSU could be used to more benefit for another project.

 

Don’t get me wrong not trying to be unhelpful in anyway. I suppose I’m just pointing out a sep transformer and PSU for that device maybe more then case of diminishing returns and if your got the DIY bug it may serve other projects better

 

 

 

Edited July 15, 2020 by hyper

[hyper]

5 hours ago, mwhouston said:

If you haven’t seen this on the Salt Cellar thread then here is the 807 triode strapped integrated power (2W) amp. 
 

Still under test but after fixing too many issues too mention (half  I caused) it’s playing. It mixes down stereo to mono. With the 98 dB sensitive Beyma concentrics it plays loud. Yet to mount the filtering system (includes 10H choke) inside. 

Houston your relentless mate I don’t know where you get the time

[mwhouston]

14 minutes ago, hyper said:

Houston your relentless mate I don’t know where you get the time

Fortunately I have been retrieved for 13 years now so even more time on my hands. But even when I worked full time I made time. It’s my hobby for just the last 50 years and I think I’m stating to get the hang of it. 
 

I can report here the Salt Cellar mono triode is a in-your-face sonic killer. Through the Beymas a little light on bass but bass assist from another driver could help that the rest, it’s raw and in your face real.. Got me very emotional on tracks I’ve not liked in the past.

 

Tomorrow get the bits on the outside into the inside including the big 10H Hammond choke.  Must say the amp is absolutely dead quiet when no music is playing. I’m talking black background quiet. Nothing. 

 

 

[RankStranger]

40 minutes ago, hyper said:

Rank, I read back a few post so apologies if I’ve missed anything. I suppose the first question is is there a perceived problem with the current PSU? 
 

I get that people like to run external linear PSUs for various kit, but I’m just wondering if there is anything you’ve notice that’s compelling you to change the supply? Or you just want to tinker

Trust me I get the want to tinker but it’s always good to start with an issue you want to resolve or at very least an understanding of how you are going to confirm it’s increased performance (outside our very unreliable ears). 
 

If it’s simple noise issue it might be something as easy as couple of cascading low ESR caps in front of the supply.

 

IMHO it maybe overkill without any real benefit when the PSU could be used to more benefit for another project.

 

Don’t get me wrong not trying to be unhelpful in anyway. I suppose I’m just pointing out a sep transformer and PSU for that device maybe more then case of diminishing returns and if your got the DIY bug it may serve other projects better

 

 

 

All completely valid questions  

 

I’d say it’s half about sound quality. The mini on its own sounds great - substantially better than the Pi/Boss combo - but I’ve been doing this long enough to know that you can always get better sound. If I had to pick nits, along with the detail, there’s a little hardness in the top end. Auralic themselves sell (or sold) a LPSU for the Aries range so I presume they make some difference and maybe it will be that. I don’t necessarily expect to hear as much difference with my $80 LPS as I might with theirs but I don’t have theirs to compare it to and, at multiple hundreds of dollars, I don’t expect to in the foreseeable future. 
 

The other half is definitely the tinkering side of it. I’ve been excited about the more roll-your-own aspects of hifi for only about a year or so and I’m yet to complete a project for various banal reasons. The dual supply for the Pi player was to be my first but in the two months that I’ve been waiting for parts, my attention has wandered, as it’s wont to do, and the Pi player is no longer a priority. I still have the kit, though and I’m itching to build it and to see if I can make it actually work.

 

If I end up with a power supply that sounds exactly like the wall wart that ships with the mini, I’ll consider that a resounding success and I’ll build a fancy case for it and use it with pride (I’m very excited about building the fancy case. That sort of thing is my jam). If it sounds even a little bit better, even just to me, then you’re not going to be able to shut me up about it. I know it’s not much to some of you guys. Compared to some of the projects on here, it’s like I’m building a duplo LEGO kit, but I’m excited to tackle it and you’ve got to start somewhere, no?

 

The other small but important part of it is that my mental health, which has often sucked over the last few years, is improved by me having a project to do that involves making something with my hands. It doesn’t really matter what it is and in some ways thinking about and researching it is almost as useful as doing it because if I’m engrossed in trying to understand voltage drops and negative voltages, I’m not fixated on less healthy thoughts. So there’s that. 
 

Sorry if that’s too much info. Your answer must be in there somewhere, though  

[hyper]

14 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Fortunately I have been retrieved for 13 years now so even more time on my hands. But even when I worked full time I made time. It’s my hobby for just the last 50 years and I think I’m stating to get the hang of it. 
 

I can report here the Salt Cellar mono triode is a in-your-face sonic killer. Through the Beymas a little light on bass but bass assist from another driver could help that the rest, it’s raw and in your face real.. Got me very emotional on tracks I’ve not liked in the past.

 

Tomorrow get the bits on the outside into the inside including the big 10H Hammond choke.  Must say the amp is absolutely dead quiet when no music is playing. I’m talking black background quiet. Nothing. 

 

 

Looks interesting is that an 807?

[mwhouston]

1 minute ago, hyper said:

Looks interesting is that an 807?

Yes it is and there are two tubes which were a gift from a fellow builder who knew I had completed a 807 SE UL amp with external PS:- https://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com/2012/03/luciano-807-power-amp.html

 

These tubes, untested, have sat idle for many years. To keep the SC feel I wanted a power tube with a top cap. These freeby stunning looking 807 fit the bill. The 80 rec  tube and RCA 6SN7 I have also had for donkeys and I have a pair of each.

 

I have one 12A6 black metal tube I would like to build another SC wine box amp with. But need a good cct. I can use the same external Tranni brd. 

[hyper]

7 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

All completely valid questions  

 

I’d say it’s half about sound quality. The mini on its own sounds great - substantially better than the Pi/Boss combo - but I’ve been doing this long enough to know that you can always get better sound. If I had to pick nits, along with the detail, there’s a little hardness in the top end. Auralic themselves sell (or sold) a LPSU for the Aries range so I presume they make some difference and maybe it will be that. I don’t necessarily expect to hear as much difference with my $80 LPS as I might with theirs but I don’t have theirs to compare it to and, at multiple hundreds of dollars, I don’t expect to in the foreseeable future. 
 

The other half is definitely the tinkering side of it. I’ve been excited about the more roll-your-own aspects of hifi for only about a year or so and I’m yet to complete a project for various banal reasons. The dual supply for the Pi player was to be my first but in the two months that I’ve been waiting for parts, my attention has wandered, as it’s wont to do, and the Pi player is no longer a priority. I still have the kit, though and I’m itching to build it and to see if I can make it actually work.

 

If I end up with a power supply that sounds exactly like the wall wart that ships with the mini, I’ll consider that a resounding success and I’ll build a fancy case for it and use it with pride (I’m very excited about building the fancy case. That sort of thing is my jam). If it sounds even a little bit better, even just to me, then you’re not going to be able to shut me up about it. I know it’s not much to some of you guys. Compared to some of the projects on here, it’s like I’m building a duplo LEGO kit, but I’m excited to tackle it and you’ve got to start somewhere, no?

 

The other small but important part of it is that my mental health, which has often sucked over the last few years, is improved by me having a project to do that involves making something with my hands. It doesn’t really matter what it is and in some ways thinking about and researching it is almost as useful as doing it because if I’m engrossed in trying to understand voltage drops and negative voltages, I’m not fixated on less healthy thoughts. So there’s that. 
 

Sorry if that’s too much info. Your answer must be in there somewhere, though  

Mate all power to you and I’m glad your found something that is of interest and finding enjoyment.

 

if your enjoying it that’s all that matters I was just pointing out practical considerations for it that’s all! 

 

As pointed out above your looking at an DC output of around 1.4x above the AC input for the PSU, there’s slight loss from sag (lessor factor given the current draw) and voltage drops cross the rectifier but close enough to 1.4x