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DIY audio: what are you building?


Paul Spencer

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18 hours ago, TMM said:

Drummed up enough motivation to continue work on some bent lamination cabinets (5 of them; two towers, a centre and two bookshelves) that have been sitting untouched for at least a year. The last done to them was finishing gluing the sides, so now the overhangs need to be trimmed flush.


 

First I needed to make a bigger DIY router table


Then made a heck of a lot of dust machining the front and rear overhang of the laminations
tkixyVP.jpg


Still plenty of work to do, maybe I'll be finished by 2021... :)

Well done great work :)

Edited by DQ828
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Just finished a couple of high power SS amps but have had this project in mind for a while. 192W tranni and two 150W Class D Tripath T3 amp modules. 
 

usually I have caps on hand but have found 4700uf at 50V better caps at Altronics. I figure four of these for a single rail DC supply to supply both should work. Amp should produce 100W. The whole core of the project is a very low profile 100W power amp. Time to breakout the drill press yet again. 

D95B9B5C-A144-4849-A000-1AF4C4C63688.jpeg

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2 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Just finished a couple of high power SS amps but have had this project in mind for a while. 192W tranni and two 150W Class D Tripath T3 amp modules. 
 

usually I have caps on hand but have found 4700uf at 50V better caps at Altronics. I figure four of these for a single rail DC supply to supply both should work. Amp should produce 100W. The whole core of the project is a very low profile 100W power amp. Time to breakout the drill press yet again. 

D95B9B5C-A144-4849-A000-1AF4C4C63688.jpeg

Good start. Got all this drilled and mounted. Tomorrow drill out  the rear panel for RCAs and speaker binding posts. As with all my power amps a RFI/EMI power filter to be installed. 
 

Still thinking of making it an integrated amp with Pass B1 front end. I have four matched FETs ready to go and all other parts. Back to the drill tomorrow, 

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3776C284-858B-4F5B-A89C-AA2AE622B3A5.jpeg.a44a469ffcb614d46d25f93cf671ecbd.jpeg

 

Some good progress on the bracing today. Lots of 100mm holes to drill tomorrow. They take ages. 
 

Don’t mind the little bit of corrective surgery. Let’s just say, sometimes it’s a real shame when something you’ve spent time and effort on won’t be visible in the final product. Other times it’s really bloody not. ?

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13 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Holton amps are phenomenal. Best amps I have ever built.

 

The thingame is a mains power filter.  

Can you please give me details of the filter.

 

I have 2 x 3 channel Holton amps modules running my OB's but they have been around a while, they sound good. If I had the money to spare I would have another go with the newer models and more PS caps. Probably just copy what you did :) Looked good to me. I'd also like to try the solid state speaker protection.

 

Just dreaming.

 

Thats the problem with active crossovers, you need to many amps!

 

Jaycar right?

Edited by DQ828
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6 minutes ago, DQ828 said:

Can you please give me details of the filter.

 

I have 2 x 3 channel Holton amps modules running my OB's but they have been around a while, they sound good. If I had the money to spare I would have another go with the newer models and more PS caps. Probably just copy what you did :) Looked good to me. I'd also like to try the solid state speaker protection.

 

Just dreaming.

 

Thats the problem with active crossovers, you need to many amps!

 

Jaycar right?

https://www.jaycar.com.au/240v-ac-emi-filter/p/MS4001
 

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On 01/01/2020 at 9:19 PM, RankStranger said:

Some good progress on the bracing today. Lots of 100mm holes to drill tomorrow. They take ages. 

You should buy a 100mm tungsten hole saw "Stanley" at Bunny rabbits.

You will never use a saw tooth again ,tungsten will  cut though like butter

no more burn marks ,they can cut holes in concrete and brick old hardwood studs ,bearers.

 

Peter

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This class d slimline build has been on my mind for a while. I made monoblocks with the same Tripath T3 modules some years back. The monoblocks have since sold. The Mola Mola Bruno amps got me thinking about my own monoblocks - “Tutu”. 
 

Devailet amps are a total revolution. But are extremely expensive. Not just that I’m only allowed DIY gear in my house. I thought I could do a super slimline class d. Modules are the hifimediy Tripath T3s. 150W mono modules. I want two low profile Trannis in the 1U enclosure but as you can see there is no way they would fit. 
 

With the current Tranni the amp should produce better than 100Wpc. More than enough. There is an inline fuse, RFI/EMI power filter, two 150W class d Tripath modules. Best fit was 4 X 4700uf 50V high temp filter caps. Chassis is earthed and all 240V connections insulated. 
 

Worked at first turn on and plays extremely well.  Bass is very good. A little crisper than my Holton amps but possibly more detail. Very nice.

 

So another one done. Good start to 2020. 


 

C97249A0-1ED1-40A0-BAFF-5EE68D172B69.jpeg

3936CB92-814F-4353-B73E-E45CB445B03C.jpeg

94A293DD-E2DA-4D75-9F7E-1C09622E8CE7.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, gonefishing999 said:

You should buy a 100mm tungsten hole saw "Stanley" at Bunny rabbits.

You will never use a saw tooth again ,tungsten will  cut though like butter

no more burn marks ,they can cut holes in concrete and brick old hardwood studs ,bearers.

 

Peter

Thanks, Peter. I’ll check them out

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38 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

This class d slimline build has been on my mind for a while. I made monoblocks with the same Tripath T3 modules some years back. The monoblocks have since sold. The Mola Mola Bruno amps got me thinking about my own monoblocks - “Tutu”. 
 

Devailet amps are a total revolution. But are extremely expensive. Not just that I’m only allowed DIY gear in my house. I thought I could do a super slimline class d. Modules are the hifimediy Tripath T3s. 150W mono modules. I want two low profile Trannis in the 1U enclosure but as you can see there is no way they would fit. 
 

With the current Tranni the amp should produce better than 100Wpc. More than enough. There is an inline fuse, RFI/EMI power filter, two 150W class d Tripath modules. Best fit was 4 X 4700uf 50V high temp filter caps. Chassis is earthed and all 240V connections insulated. 
 

Worked at first turn on and plays extremely well.  Bass is very good. A little crisper than my Holton amps but possibly more detail. Very nice.

 

So another one done. Good start to 2020. 


 

C97249A0-1ED1-40A0-BAFF-5EE68D172B69.jpeg

 

 

Bloody good start ! :party

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I stumbled across these images from 2014 of 6EM7 monoblocks I built after building a few 6EM7 amps. The 6EM7 has two triodes in the one glass. You have driver and power triode in the one bottle. Inspired by the Decware 2W triodes I went for the monoblocks. 

 

Each block has its own double Pi choked PS tranni and 5Y3 rec tube and own RFI/EMI power filter. Any similar rec tube could be used. The chassis are Jaycar cast Al sprayed with epoxy enamel paint. A tail with a IEC socket allows any power cord to be used. Power tranni and choke is Hammond and OPTs Edcor. These sold after I had had then for a while and the purchaser still swaps them in when listen to voice based music. At only 2W efficient speakers are required.

 

I tried to buy them back but he liked them to much to release them. Wished Id kept them.

AssembledV.jpg

P2121796.JPG

DuoClub.jpg

P2121795.JPG

ParisDuo.jpg

Edited by mwhouston
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On 03/01/2020 at 1:08 PM, gonefishing999 said:

You should buy a 100mm tungsten hole saw "Stanley" at Bunny rabbits.

Peter

Peter, just to clarify - are you saying here the tungsten hole saw works well to cut MDF and plywood,

or hard stuff life bricks and bearers?

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36 minutes ago, marten said:

the tungsten hole saw works well to cut MDF and plywood

Just my 2-bobs-worth:

 

- The yellow ones with 3 tungsten teeth cut plywood very fast and reasonably cleanly (especially if rounding over edges later with router bit). One quick cut - very satisfying.

 

- The blue ones with many small teeth are not good for this job. They cut a very clean, accurate circle, but you can only penetrate about 2 mm before having to back off, stop, and clean out the teeth before going again - I find this very frustrating.

 

Both require you to buy the cutter (many options on diameter), but also a matching centre drill part.

 

I have a "vertical drill" to do this - not sure I'd recommend using 100 mm or larger cutter with a hand-held drill.

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