Jump to content

DIY audio: what are you building?


Paul Spencer

Recommended Posts



3 minutes ago, A9X said:

 Unity based mains...

Indeed that is a midTweeter solution that done right plays loud and brings the coherence that a good FR has (thanx Tom). It does cost cubic dollars more to implement, so that can be a huge compromise for many.

 

How many ways is the unity and wher edo you XO it?

 

dave

Edited by planet10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, A9X said:

Been told that many times and have been disappointed every time, especially with complex materials when I want some SPL. I can do without the IMD and FMD thanks. I'll stay with 3-4 ways with DSP.

 

Probably right.    My idea of the proper use of a full-range is for some acoustic jazz,  or folk,   or classical small ensemble or solo,  preferably played through a small SET.  So, it doesn't fit your needs, that's for sure.

 

The other use is to get authentic sound.  My mono system is intended to sound like a 50's/60's jukebox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



32 minutes ago, planet10 said:

Many FR afficiandos would find the lack of coherence of a big multiway to be a compromise

quite right.  I find 2-way systems to be as complicated as I really like it.  Maybe that's why I like my Osborn's because they are basically 2-way with a sub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

some acoustic jazz,  or folk,   or classical small ensemble or solo

But mine can do all of that plus large orchestral, rock, metal etc. No limits in what I want to listen to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, A9X said:

But mine can do all of that plus large orchestral, rock, metal etc. No limits in what I want to listen to.

The question is, do they do the bit's I listed, as well as the system I specified?  Allrounders  might not do each type as well as dedicated systems.   

 

Hey, not after an argument, it's just a different approach.   I believe my Osborn's are great all rounders, and that's how I use them, but if I want to play Elvis on a 78, I know which system gives me the most thrills - it's the Plessey-Rola C12PX in the open back box, positioned on a bracket at the just the right distance from the top corner of my record room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

The question is, do they do the bit's I listed, as well as the system I specified?

Based upon my own experience, better.

 

As for the "lack of coherence" in a multiway, ask the many here who've heard TJ's 5 way system if it lacks coherence.

Edited by A9X
Link to comment
Share on other sites



Not a hill I’ll die on but my feeling is that a coaxial is a 2 way and a full-range is a full-range is a full-range.

 

So, it depends, is it a crossover-less speaker thread? A single driver thread? A point-source thread? A one-way thread? Is a panel speaker a full-range? I presume they have their own thread. 
 

I’m overthinking it, aren’t I?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



My next job is re-capping the old Armstrong 626 receiver I bought. I’m a little overwhelmed by the options available though and I’d appreciate some guidance.
 

I have the schematics and service manual etc. and most things are pretty accessible and I’ve been practising soldering so I’m feeling pretty confident

 

I’ve been recommended a few places to buy parts (mouser, rs, element 14, digikey) but there’s so many brands for each value and I don’t know how to differentiate them and no one place seems to have everything I need. Is this a common problem? Is it a good idea to get the same brand for everything or does it not matter? Is there a way to tell what’s good and what’s garbage (without having a lifetime of experience)? Are the more expensive ones better? Up to what point, given it’s a 45yo midrange component?
 

also, I’m not sure if I should just do the big caps and see how it sounds before I do all the rest of the little ones. Are the little ones likely to become a problem if I leave them? 

 

Thanks, any advice would be appreciated.

 

Simon

Edited by RankStranger
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

My next job is re-capping the old Armstrong 626 receiver I bought. I’m a little overwhelmed by the options available though and I’d appreciate some guidance.
 

I have the schematics and service manual etc. and most things are pretty accessible and I’ve been practising soldering so I’m feeling pretty confident

 

I’ve been recommended a few places to buy parts (mouser, rs, element 14, digikey) but there’s so many brands for each value and I don’t know how to differentiate them and no one place seems to have everything I need. Is this a common problem? Is it a good idea to get the same brand for everything or does it not matter? Is there a way to tell what’s good and what’s garbage (without having a lifetime of experience)? Are the more expensive ones better? Up to what point, given it’s a 45yo midrange component?
 

also, I’m not sure if I should just do the big caps and see how it sounds before I do all the rest of the little ones. Are the little ones likely to become a problem if I leave them? 

 

Thanks, any advice would be appreciated.

 

Simon

Some info here  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

Some info here  

 

Yes, thanks. I’ve seen that and had some emails back and forth with Nigel who was very helpful. I’m just after some general advice about buying the components I need because I haven’t done it before. Mostly I want to know if it’s better to have them all the same brand. The pedant in me wants to but I suspect it doesn’t matter at all. Are the cheapest ones from a reputable supplier good enough?

 

then I was worried I posted it in the wrong thread... 

Edited by RankStranger
existential panic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, RankStranger said:

Yes, thanks. I’ve seen that and had some emails back and forth with Nigel who was very helpful. I’m just after some general advice about buying the components I need because I haven’t done it before. Mostly I want to know if it’s better to have them all the same brand. The pedant in me wants to but I suspect it doesn’t matter at all. Are the cheapest ones from a reputable supplier good enough?

 

then I was worried I posted it in the wrong thread... 

 

I wouldn't worry about brands.  You'll probably find that, to get the actual values you want, you'll need to use different brands.  Just depends on what is needed and what is available.

 

Hard to advise on buying the cheapest. Often you get what you pay for, but that also doesn't necessarily mean paying silly prices either.  More important to use known reliable brands.  Advice from others here, who've done more recapping than me,  should be forthcoming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, aussievintage said:

 

I wouldn't worry about brands.  You'll probably find that, to get the actual values you want, you'll need to use different brands.  Just depends on what is needed and what is available.

 

Hard to advise on buying the cheapest. Often you get what you pay for, but that also doesn't necessarily mean paying silly prices either.  More important to use known reliable brands.  Advice from others here, who've done more recapping than me,  should be forthcoming.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites



Guest Muon N'

Got a third Sparko discrete reg' in, so only one or two more to go, need to work out a way to fix the +5v to the sink preferably without drilling the sink, the existing clip looks impractical and may short against the rear of the reg PCB. Might need to make my own clip or a thermal adhesive.

243481348_Thirdreg.jpg.95bb40932c1600855b7eee6b92a69a91.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Muon N'

OK, +5v Sparko in, so 4 of 5 reg's are now Sparko discrete.

Had to move a small film cap to the underside of the PCB as it was in the way.

 

2109120075_5v.jpg.71a35760c387f5f6da2210545521a8e2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DIY Audio Nior pre/headphone amp up next,

 

Also thinking of stripping the MF A1 to make sure the caps are good and replace the thermal paste is sufficient.

Edited by Batty
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Batty said:

DIY Audio Nior pre/headphone amp up next,

Is that the single ended class A design?  I suppose it uses a big MOSFET for the output?

 

After my positive experience with my single ended class A parallel 6AS7 headphone amp, I would imagine this solid state version would also sound very nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top