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DIY audio: what are you building?


Paul Spencer

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For my next idea how about next time your making a new  mold eg for a huge bass horn how about casting so the upper 1/3 of the mold pulls out of the lower mold with the horn attached?


You've lost me there mate. Can you reword it please?
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3 minutes ago, Upfront said:

.. Can you reword it please?

 

 

imagine chopping the top third of the mold off just above the flare

then reattach with a dowel so the mold is perfectly aligned but splits in two when the upper part is pulled up vertically

when making the mold that could all be cast in

now imagine youve finished layering up the horn which is becomes really well stuck onto the mold having shrunk with drying

the horn will mainly adhere to the more vertical aspects of mold as it contracts ie the upper third

so when you pull up the upper mold the horn follows releasing from the lower mold

the final release should be easy by inverting the horn so the mouth is towards the ceiling, then  gripping the horn around the narrow part and tapping the upper mold out against a bench

more confused now?

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imagine chopping the top third of the mold off just above the flare
then reattach with a dowel so the mold is perfectly aligned but splits in two when the upper part is pulled up vertically
when making the mold that could all be cast in
now imagine youve finished layering up the horn which is becomes really well stuck onto the mold having shrunk with drying
the horn will mainly adhere to the more vertical aspects of mold as it contracts ie the upper third
so when you pull up the upper mold the horn follows releasing from the lower mold
the final release should be easy by inverting the horn so the mouth is towards the ceiling, then  gripping the horn around the narrow part and tapping the upper mold out against a bench
more confused now?

Much less confused! Thanks for that! Quite sensible. Why couldn't you have suggested this before i started!!!
Silicone next time I think in all seriousness. But then the mold would have cost me 150 bucks instead of 13 bucks.
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1 hour ago, Upfront said:

8f5d4b573d9c58da51a4ecc20953bbf7.jpg
The throat will be cut back to fit the 3" driver so dont mind the mess but as you can see, there is a lot of surface area to mount the plate and horn mount.

Exciting, almost ready to have a look inside of the horn. :) Seems to be plenty of thickness where it matters on the throat. Shouldn't ring or resonate at all. Nice work Mate.

What about a wedge shape baffle for the mid ? Use 4 x 6" woofers. :)

 

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1 hour ago, Upfront said:


What cloth did you decide on for the "socks" mate? And where did you source ot from?

Needed 1300x 800mm for each speaker, so that dictated choice somewhat- selected Duratech from Jaycar in black, which comes in 1500x1000mm packs. It looks nice and have seen it on other speakers.

Edited by Eddierukiddingvarese
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Shouldn't ring or resonate at all. Nice work Mate.
What about a wedge shape baffle for the mid ? Use 4 x 6" woofers. [emoji4]
 

Your right about it resonating mate. Should be interesting. Its 7 "laps" of paper. I use the term laps because of the amount of overlapping with each layer. So 1 lap can be 2 or 3 layers depending on how tight you lay the strips together. So basically my 7 laps equals roughly 18 layers.
As for drivers, I'm thinking simple Matt. One singe driver. As I said earlier, either Peerless 830869 or Dynaudio MW162. Thinking the Peerless is the go though.
Anyone have other suggestions?
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39 minutes ago, Eddierukiddingvarese said:

Needed 1300x 800mm for each speaker, so that dictated choice somewhat- selected Duratech from Jaycar in black, which comes in 1500x1000mm packs. It looks nice and have seen it on other speakers.

The AR93 VWUFSS- Very Wife UnFriendly Speaker Stands repainted.

AR93 Stands.JPG

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19 hours ago, Upfront said:


I used a generous amount of washing up liquid. Enough so the entire surface was covered but not enough to leave streaks on the surface. Hopefully enough. The mold was highly polished before the soap was applied. I used a heavy cut and polish till the surface was immaculate then a pure polishing compound. I read about the vaseline but didnt want the paper stained. Would have been much easier to remove if i had done though.

A water or oil based lubricant wont do anything ?

Edited by Swarm
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A water or oil based lubricant wont do anything ?

Possibly. And I'm open too sugestions. Not exactly sure how well the dish soap will release. What were you thinking? Silicone spray? If so what do you take it off with to paint?
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On 29/12/2016 at 7:51 PM, Upfront said:

Music is the important part mate!

Still havent decided on a mid bass driver.

Peerless 830869 maybe?

Or Dynaudio MW162

 

I imagine the mid-bass needs to keep up with the horn and have similar directivity? 

How about making a nice big mold for a nice big paper horn?

Otherwise OB might work ?

 

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1 hour ago, Upfront said:


Possibly. And I'm open too sugestions. Not exactly sure how well the dish soap will release. What were you thinking? Silicone spray? If so what do you take it off with to paint?

Like personal lube. but i guess it would dry like detergent

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2 hours ago, Upfront said:


Possibly. And I'm open too sugestions. Not exactly sure how well the dish soap will release. What were you thinking? Silicone spray? If so what do you take it off with to paint?

Don't use silicone spray if you intend to paint it. It's almost impossible to remove from a smooth surface, and would be even worse on a surface that had any sort of texture. The spray painters where I worked hated the stuff with a passion.

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I imagine the mid-bass needs to keep up with the horn and have similar directivity? 
How about making a nice big mold for a nice big paper horn?
Otherwise OB might work ?
 

I'm trying to keep it small so it can sit on the bench in the shed. So horns for the bottom end are out but small OB could work good idea. Up untill now I've been thinking of a sealed box. But a box done my way! [emoji38]
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