cafe latte Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 On 27/10/2019 at 11:15 AM, John Bates said: Wish I knew. At first I thought it was the plug which was temperamental but then the deck became erratic. It's an old one, ex ABC. Have now handed it to a service guy about whom I have misgivings though I have sent him the service manual purchased from the UK. Yes, I'm apprehensive about the cost . I read the rest of the thread. Psu is for sure where you need to start you WILL almost for sure have problems with 2 or more electrolytic caps. Dont use it till you sort this as it is possible this can cause problems inside the turntable. Just reap the psu. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cafe latte Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 On 03/06/2020 at 9:10 PM, Warren Jones said: Got the SP10 with DIY linear tonearm and bentonite/resin plinth up and running, with a Stanton 881s it sounds amazing. The LTA is a big improvement even over the exceptional EPA100 Did you make the arm? I am just about to make a turntable and arm, but not going linear, but love my ET2. Anyway nice job if you diid and the SP10 looks great in black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) On 04/06/2020 at 10:41 PM, cafe latte said: What is the problem? Normally the issue is in the psu, there are three caps that have issues as they are stressed and they are usually speed issues. Contact me if you need more help. The caps in the turntable are normally fine, but it wont hurt to replace them, that said I would look at the psu first. You can download the service manual from VE too. Have you tested the voltages on the psu? Chris I changed the faulty caps in the PSU. But most of the problem was in the TT. 1 faulty transistor on the Control PCB, extra electo caps on the Logic PCB these were removed. A few dry joints and a broken PCB trace. The sub platter 1 of the M3 bolt holes was stripped so I redrilled new holes for the platter bolts. On 04/06/2020 at 10:47 PM, cafe latte said: Did you make the arm? I am just about to make a turntable and arm, but not going linear, but love my ET2. Anyway nice job if you diid and the SP10 looks great in black Yes I made the arm and plinth. All machining done inhouse. Took me 4 months to construct the arm and it still needs some tweaks. The carriage is too heavy for the Stanton 881s, so it miss tracks on some off centre pressings. Once I have milling machine operational again I will make a new carriage that is much lighter. The rail the carriage runs on is 2x 4mm carbide rods epoxied to stainless base. VTA is by the knobs on top which move each end independently. VTA blocks run on 8mm linear shaft in brass bushings. The whole shebang slides back on 12mm industrial (better tolerance) linear bearings to facilitate LP changes. Sound is extremely good even with the issue it has. Bass punch is like nothing I have heard from a TT. This is down to the short (55mm stylus to pivot) extremely stiff carriage. It does look good in black, but that was only due to the fact I had black chassis paint left over from the car. Edited June 8, 2020 by Warren Jones 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shovel_Knight Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I like my SP10 mk2 as well It replaced my heavily modded Lenco (with a hardwood plinth, expensive aftermarket bearing etc.) and I couldn't be happier. The craziest thing is that I spent more on getting the Lenco fettled than I spent on my Technics, yet the Technics is in a different league sonically. Mine is an ex-BBC unit (SP10 mk2 P/L) that I fixed myself and converted to a regular/domestic spec to get rid of the ugly BBC control box. I was very lucky to find a replacement logic board on eBay... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Thorens Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Yes I once had a Lenco too. Not bad but fiddly and high maintenance and in the end the number of upgrades required made it expensive and high maintenance. And the SP10 is sonically superior anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radioguy Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hey guys, I have a magnificent mk2 that I got from a radio station but sadly I don’t have a power supply :( originals are very hard to come by, has anyone ever had one made or come across a compatible solution? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shovel_Knight Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 On 28/07/2020 at 1:22 PM, radioguy said: Hey guys, I have a magnificent mk2 that I got from a radio station but sadly I don’t have a power supply :( originals are very hard to come by, has anyone ever had one made or come across a compatible solution? Hi, making a DIY power supply is quite easy. The turntable requires 5V DC for the logic circuits and 32.5V for the motor. See e.g. here: https://sites.google.com/site/mpbarneysources/sp-10-mk2-pro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundfan Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 (edited) On 10/06/2020 at 8:49 PM, Shovel_Knight said: I like my SP10 mk2 as well It replaced my heavily modded Lenco (with a hardwood plinth, expensive aftermarket bearing etc.) and I couldn't be happier. The craziest thing is that I spent more on getting the Lenco fettled than I spent on my Technics, yet the Technics is in a different league sonically. Mine is an ex-BBC unit (SP10 mk2 P/L) that I fixed myself and converted to a regular/domestic spec to get rid of the ugly BBC control box. I was very lucky to find a replacement logic board on eBay... Funny that. I had an SP10 MK II and a heavily modded Lenco with PTP plate, upmarket bearing, idler, huge plinth etc etc and loved them both. I used to swap my Alphason HRS100 tonearm between them. Each had their strengths, but to me I liked the Lenco better sonically, and sold the SP10 MKII. One man's potatoes are.........:) That was about 6 or 7 yrs back, the Lenco remains my only turntable in the house. Having said that, if I had to replace my Lenco, I would be looking for another SP10 MK II. They are great tables. Edited July 30, 2020 by soundfan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Hi all. Keeping this thread alive... I'm just about to join the ranks of SP10 owners. I say just about, its really 4 weeks away thanks to Stage 4 lockdown. But really looking forward to getting my hands on the SP10 MkII I've committed to buy. From what I have read it will sort out my vinyl playing blues. It comes with the original plinth and power supply, so lots of room to mod... even though I like the look of the original plinth better than most other versions I have seen. I'll post images and more after I pick up the turntable. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoMan Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 On 28/07/2020 at 9:52 PM, radioguy said: Hey guys, I have a magnificent mk2 that I got from a radio station but sadly I don’t have a power supply originals are very hard to come by, has anyone ever had one made or come across a compatible solution? I've seen new 3rd party ones. Very expensive at $1000 a pop. Check out UK Ebay. Would not be to hard to get one made up here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emsworth Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Resurrecting this thread in case it is relevant to anyone. I just got around to purchasing a 12V power supply from Gieseler Audio for my SL-10 and I'm super happy with the results. Always hard to describe the before/after subjective listening experience but it seemed that imaging improved, with greater separation between instruments and more detail. Bass is slightly better defined? Feels as though transients are just that little bit sweeter and generally there's more space in the sound. All of which is very nice, but it also tidies up a minor issue I was having with this TT, which is that it got quite warm after being left on for a while. I've read that other people have had the same issue with this deck, I would guess this is due to components in the internal transformer drifting a little out of spec over the years. Anyway the new PSU rather handily solves this problem too. Hoping that this will contribute to the longevity of my prized SL-10. Next step - investigating a retip for the EPC-310MC! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cammyboy0_0 Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 23 hours ago, Emsworth said: Resurrecting this thread in case it is relevant to anyone. I just got around to purchasing a 12V power supply from Gieseler Audio for my SL-10 and I'm super happy with the results. Always hard to describe the before/after subjective listening experience but it seemed that imaging improved, with greater separation between instruments and more detail. Bass is slightly better defined? Feels as though transients are just that little bit sweeter and generally there's more space in the sound. All of which is very nice, but it also tidies up a minor issue I was having with this TT, which is that it got quite warm after being left on for a while. I've read that other people have had the same issue with this deck, I would guess this is due to components in the internal transformer drifting a little out of spec over the years. Anyway the new PSU rather handily solves this problem too. Hoping that this will contribute to the longevity of my prized SL-10. Next step - investigating a retip for the EPC-310MC! Great stuff- thanks for keeping us all in the loop - sounds like a nice upgrade to an already good turntable. cheers Cameron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Just wondering if anyone has a dead SP10mk2 motor they would be willing to part with. Reason is I'm going to look al machining a new bearing housing to facilitate a larger OD spindle and I don't want to do it on one of my good motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS23 Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 On 31/08/2020 at 8:28 PM, Emsworth said: Resurrecting this thread in case it is relevant to anyone. I just got around to purchasing a 12V power supply from Gieseler Audio for my SL-10 and I'm super happy with the results. Always hard to describe the before/after subjective listening experience but it seemed that imaging improved, with greater separation between instruments and more detail. Bass is slightly better defined? Feels as though transients are just that little bit sweeter and generally there's more space in the sound. All of which is very nice, but it also tidies up a minor issue I was having with this TT, which is that it got quite warm after being left on for a while. I've read that other people have had the same issue with this deck, I would guess this is due to components in the internal transformer drifting a little out of spec over the years. Anyway the new PSU rather handily solves this problem too. Hoping that this will contribute to the longevity of my prized SL-10. Next step - investigating a retip for the EPC-310MC! Hi Could you advise which PSU you ended up with? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emsworth Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 H 4 minutes ago, TS23 said: Hi Could you advise which PSU you ended up with? Cheers Hi TS23 - yep I ordered one from Gieseler Audio, he is based in Australia and his website is https://www.gieseler.com.au Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS23 Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 He has a range from 1.5 to 4.0 amp. Just wanted to know which model you ended up with? Cheers T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emsworth Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Oh sorry I get you. I went with the 3A selectable output one. From memory the SL10 manual recommends a supply rated at over 800mA. I was lucky enough to get an early release version of what I believe is now badged As Kraftwerk II, I cant compare it to the earlier versions but it really does sound excellent. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Thorens Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 Dear SNA Technics team members. I’m looking into plinths. On eBay there is a seller of these. Has anyone experience with this model? TECHNICS SP-10 MK2 PLINTH ONLY IN 2X20MM.ACRYLIC PLUS 3MM. COMPOSITE ALUMINIU https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264610424911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 My plinth is resin/bentonite and it's great. You could build 4 resin/bentonite plinths for that price. If you have basic DIY skills you could build a resin plinth for under $150 depending where you get the resin from. This is my latest plinth, although I will be making another shortly to mount the motor directly into the plinth with separate electronics. and a servo linear arm. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Thorens Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 That’s a good idea I’ll do some research Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 I used laminating resin which is not the best as it needs to be laid in 10mm thick pours or heat buildup gets too much and it either cracks or warps or both, but I have 20kg drum. Best to use casting resin this can be bought from Bunnings but it's expensive. I get my fibreglass supplies from Trojan in Newcastle, price is way better than Bunnings even with staff discount. Bentonite is just kitty litter, I bought mine from IGA but Coles and Wollies have it. My mold is made from form ply, Bunnings again..... I didn't use a formula for the resin/bentonite ratio I just went with feel, so the mix was like thick porridge, and ended up with about 2mm resin on top. The most difficult part is making the inserts for the SP10 and tonearm. You DO NOT want to machining this stuff it's messy and hard on tooling, trust me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 More pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Thorens Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 (edited) Very interesting indeed. I’ve been looking at how molds were done at DIY audio. Looks feasible. Did you drill holes for the mounting bolts. Was that difficult. Or does the TT sit on top of the plinth unfastened. Edited September 30, 2020 by Mr Thorens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Thorens Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Thank you @Warren Jones I can see the DIY audio posts and will hopefully start making my mold over weekend. I’ll use formply for outer and try cork tiles for the cutout parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Jones Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 (edited) The best material for inserts is polyethylene cutting boards. I used form ply screwed together, coated with resin then painted with Wattle 7008 2 pack polyurethane varnish. I also use VO5 hair spray for mold release. Plasticine is used to seal the edges of the mold or the resin will run everywhere. Edited October 1, 2020 by Warren Jones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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