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How to test tonearm without removing existing tonearm off from turntable


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Hello,

 

Is there a way to test external tonearm without removing existing tonearm off from the plinth? I would like to test another tonearm if it would be a good match briefly without taking existing tonearm mounted which can be real hassle to remove and remount again. Do not want to drill another hole on the plinth for temporary testing so would like to seek advice if there is a way to test external tonearm easier way. ?

 

Thank you very much...

Edited by Spider27
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In the photo below, the left-hand side is closest to the platter.  You might be able to make an arm mount out of stacked ply to the height of the plinth, and position it on the left-hand side so the arm is closet to the 9-o'clock position on the platter.  Then move the mount so the tonearm is in the correct position.

image.png.6a3a2ac20d0e878a80c2861bcb03f4f9.png

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6 minutes ago, audiofeline said:

In the photo below, the left-hand side is closest to the platter.  You might be able to make an arm mount out of stacked ply to the height of the plinth, and position it on the left-hand side so the arm is closet to the 9-o'clock position on the platter.  Then move the mount so the tonearm is in the correct position.

 

Thank you very much for the idea.

 

I am thinking... Would it also work if I glue stack small sized cardboards from the packaging box to make a mount instead of plywood? 

I have very little wood working tools so stack of cardboards would be easier to work with instead of plywood but not sure if it would be strong enough ?

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6 minutes ago, Andrews_melb said:

Nah cardboard wouldnt work, would move around like crazy.

bunnings could cut what you need for you?

then its up to you to mark where to drill the hole for tonearm wire and mark for the threepoint rega fixing?

 

Great to know and save the trial and error :)

 

This is another idea and how about using PVC pipe and Pipe Puddle Flange on top and mount the tonearm the the flange?

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-100mm-in-pipe-puddle-flange_p4770466

https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-15mm-x-3m-press-class-18-pvc-pipe_p4750038

 

Not sure how to make the PVC pipe stand still after mounting the tonearm though if this idea works. It would require some support to hold it still on the ground...?

 

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2 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

 

Great to know and save the trial and error :)

 

This is another idea and how about using PVC pipe and Pipe Puddle Flange on top and mount the tonearm the the flange?

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-100mm-in-pipe-puddle-flange_p4770466

https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-15mm-x-3m-press-class-18-pvc-pipe_p4750038

 

Not sure how to make the PVC pipe stand still after mounting the tonearm though if this idea works. It would require some support to hold it still on the ground...?

 

 

You have certainly come up with a number of weird & wonderful ideas in your time with us, S27.  :thumb:

 

Perhaps you can tell us why you want to try out an RB303.  As, basically, any 'kludge' to fix it in place without fixing it properly to the plinth is not going to be optimal for the Rega arm - so it's an unfair comparison against the stock Kenwood arm.

 

I would suggest the first thing you want to be sure of ... is that the RB303 is compatible with the cart you intend to use.

 

Andy

 

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21 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

 

Great to know and save the trial and error :)

 

This is another idea and how about using PVC pipe and Pipe Puddle Flange on top and mount the tonearm the the flange?

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-100mm-in-pipe-puddle-flange_p4770466

https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-15mm-x-3m-press-class-18-pvc-pipe_p4750038

 

Not sure how to make the PVC pipe stand still after mounting the tonearm though if this idea works. It would require some support to hold it still on the ground...?

 

Interesting idea. 

Maybe some clay as a base for the pipe

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23 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

You have certainly come up with a number of weird & wonderful ideas in your time with us, S27.  :thumb:

 

Perhaps you can tell us why you want to try out an RB303.  As, basically, any 'kludge' to fix it in place without fixing it properly to the plinth is not going to be optimal for the Rega arm - so it's an unfair comparison against the stock Kenwood arm.

 

I would suggest the first thing you want to be sure of ... is that the RB303 is compatible with the cart you intend to use.

 

Andy

 

Thank you. Yes, cart will be compatible with medium mass rega tonearm. :)  But you made a valid point that it can be unfair comparison since it can be sub-optimal set up with temporary tonearm mount used. ?

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15 minutes ago, The Blues said:

Interesting idea. 

Maybe some clay as a base for the pipe

You gave me a idea. :) Thank you.. I might fill the pipe with steel ball bearings inside the pipe so it stands rock solid still. Just a theory at this stage.

Edited by Spider27
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Stacked MDF glued to a chopping board that's how I tested my sp10 before committing to make a plinth that way it's a solid immoveable platform to show what the arm can do. Mine is laser cut but you can easily cur some square ones and drill holes through them20180520_122146.jpg.338994a5104bfa711f15a9f090f8f233.thumb.jpg.09cf6833db04fe48e12f7a36f8e537d2.jpg20180725_063946.thumb.jpg.37e76ea4b623f11638f6afa561473db2.jpg

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4 minutes ago, mloutfie said:

Stacked MDF glued to a chopping board that's how I tested my sp10 before committing to make a plinth that way it's a solid immoveable platform to show what the arm can do. Mine is laser cut but you can easily cur some square ones and drill holes through them

That is another super cool idea :thumb: Thank you so much for sharing.  :) 

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1 hour ago, Spider27 said:

Thank you very much for the idea.

 

I am thinking... Would it also work if I glue stack small sized cardboards from the packaging box to make a mount instead of plywood? 

I have very little wood working tools so stack of cardboards would be easier to work with instead of plywood but not sure if it would be strong enough ?

It needs to have mass and to be able to dissipate unwanted energy.  Stacked ply would be good at this.  Or a piece of hardwood, but that's harder to work with.

Given that you are only wanting to have something temporary, you don't have to worry about having a good finish.  You can cut the pieces reasonably easily.  Bunnings have a cutting service but their saw is designed to cut big sheets of timber, your pieces may be too small.  A spade bit will make the large hole down the middle - I've seen them at my $2 shop. 

 

There may be someone here with a workshop who could volunteer to knock one up for you for a beer or two.

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1 minute ago, Wimbo said:

@Spider27 Can the VTA on the RB303 be easily adjusted? This might be a bit of a problem as well seeing that normally you need spacers to adjust.

I also heard that the tonearm on the KP/KD700 is very good as well.

Since I am building a block, I will try to make the height of the block as  close as ideal height to set the VTA correctly. Otherwise, add spacers which I also have a few luckily :) 

 

I actually have no idea how good stock tonearm on KP/KD700 since I have very little experience in various tonearms. I would like to try straight tonearm instead of S shape which I believe that many people prefer straight over curved tonearm tube? :) 

 

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23 hours ago, mloutfie said:

Stacked MDF glued to a chopping board that's how I tested my sp10 before committing to make a plinth that way it's a solid immoveable platform to show what the arm can do. Mine is laser cut but you can easily cur some square ones and drill holes through them20180520_122146.jpg.338994a5104bfa711f15a9f090f8f233.thumb.jpg.09cf6833db04fe48e12f7a36f8e537d2.jpg20180725_063946.thumb.jpg.37e76ea4b623f11638f6afa561473db2.jpg

Yep, I think this is the ideal solution ?

Edited by The Blues
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9 hours ago, mloutfie said:

I found spade bit hard to work with with someone who is not experienced woodworker as my selft this kit did a great fob for me https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-5-piece-hole-saw-set_p6370199 Made multiple tonearm holes with it.

Agree with you about spade bits however I find hole saw bits to be just as bad. 

Forstner bits are the best I've used:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ultra-forstner-bit-set-5-pack_p6373522

Edited by The Blues
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