Setting up a Pioneer PL50LII turntable

[rocky500]

Thought I would outline some of my setup for a Pioneer PL-50LII turntable as there is not that much online about it.

 

First was to put silicone fluid in the cup for the tonearm dampening, as it came empty. You fill it to about half way. Looking closely there is sort of a line there that you fill too. I bought some silicone fluid from ebay “Factory team 30K”. I think you can use up to 100K. I went on the lighter side as general thought is maybe most of the time it is better without damping. The original fluid may be around 100K from what I read on the net, but not sure. The damping can be disabled easily with turning the top cap adjustment.

 

I have used the accutrak protractor in the past for a different turntable and bought the PDF one for the PL30 & PL50 turntable. Printed it out to scale on thicker photo paper. Then found out the specs are a little different for the “II” models. It’s the overhang that had changed from 14mm to 12mm. LINK

A few emails to accutrak and it seems he used the specs from vinyl engine, which looks to be for the “II” model as they seem to be the only manual kicking around with specs on the net. So should be all good for mine. It tracks the lines perfectly when setup.

 

Not much info of what cartridge compliance is the best match to the tonearm. Ended up with the Audio Technica AT Art 9. Once setup and playing the Hifi test record, at about 9Hz that it wobbles, so hopefully that is an ok match.

 

Also noticed from pics on the net, the rear counterweight sags on these turntables because of age and the rubber ring used deteriorates. Mine sags a little too but this is ok as long as there is no easy sideways movement. Not sure if this can be repaired easily.

 

The “II” model comes with 2 tonearms. A straight one and S shaped one(removable head shell). Consensus online is the straight arm might be a touch better. So I setup the new cartridge with the straight arm. Always like removable head shells to make installing the cartridge a lot easier. The pioneer has the advantage of removing the tonearm tube easily & quickly by a turn of a screw, so again easier to mount the cartridge, especially the Art9 where the nuts have to go on top.

Went with Stevenson alignment that needed a slight twist of the cartridge off square in the head shell with the accutrack protractor.

 

Put a cork/Nitrile mat on to hopefully help with any static.

I attached a pic showing some of the adjustments.

 

If anyone has some tips or suggestions that would be great.

 

Edited March 6, 2018 by rocky500

[Grumpy]

I used 300k silicone damping for my Yamaha - sounds like you have been having FUN.

Thanks for sharing.

[rocky500]

27 minutes ago, Grumpy said:

I used 300k silicone damping for my Yamaha - sounds like you have been having FUN.

Thanks for sharing.

Wow, that must be very thick! You would have to shovel that out.

 

I think the Well tempered tables use 300K for their golfball trough.

Edited March 6, 2018 by rocky500

[rocky500]

I used some online software to convert the Japanese manual to English. Well mostly.

Would there be any legal problems to post it here at all? @Marc

I used the file downloaded from Vinyl Engine.

[Marc]

I don't think VE hold the copyright either, and no one is benefiting commercially from it so I think you're OK @rocky500.

[rocky500]

I attempted a conversion on the manual to English. In PDF format.

PM me if you would like a copy.

 

Edited March 10, 2018 by rocky500

[stereomark]

I would love to get a copy of the English PL-50Lii manual.

[rocky500]

Here it is in PDF.

Just use it as a sort of guide as it may not be that accurate after conversion.

 

Pioneer_pl-50l_ii_eng110.pdf

[tekdoog]

thank you for the manual. great job. have just started to work on my pl50l and pl30l. 

[MTBrider]

Hi Rocky500, I to have the pioneer PL-50L II and went through setting up a new cart, the spindle to tonearm pivot point measurement is 237mm and using Conrad Hoffman’s Stevenson A alignment Protractor I get an overhang = 14.5mm

Inner groove radius = 60.325

Outer groove radius = 146.050

Pivot to spindle distance = 237.00

Inner null radius = 60.325

Outer null radius = 117.415

Effective length = 251.500

Stylus overhang = 14.500

Offset angle = 20.693deg

Using this protractor works perfectly and sound quality is amazing.

I found using a headshell with only one locking pin on top, the VTA (SRA) changes depending on how tight the locking nut is tightened as this pulls the headshell up altering the angle. I was using the single pin headshell that came with my Nogaoka MP-150 and could not get the VTA correct, had to purchase the Jelco HS-25 (Duel pin) to get consistency, it also has Azimuth adjust which my S shaped arm was out quite a bit. Apparently this can be corrected at the tonearm bearing assembly but didn’t want to go there. The internal Transformer has been replaced with a custom made Toroidal 240/40v 30va taking away the need for a step down transformer.

If the tonearm Up/Down dampening is getting to abrupt, drop some 300wt (4000 cSt) or thicker silicon oil in the small reservoir around the lifter, under the adjust screw, (No thinner) it will eventually work its way in and should always be wet. Hope this helps mate and you are enjoying your Pioneer TT.

Edited September 30, 2019 by MTBrider

[sutepan]

Hi all,

 

I just purchased a PL-30Lii so I find this thread very helpful, thank you!. I'm looking for more information on the tonearms (I have both) and which would be a better match for a Grado Prestige cart. Also curious about which arm was used for the above measurements?

 

Thanks!

Edited November 6, 2019 by sutepan
error in TT model

[darth vader]

I have a late model PL-30LII. 1983 (I think). Japanese 100V import

 

Late model PL-30LII has early model PL-50 arm. It has on-off damper, not like PL-50 of the same year that had a 1-5 selector.

 

Mine has a straight graphite tonearm. If you can find a graphite tonearm they are a worthy upgrade. They run between US$200-$300. 

 

The "L" function is great. Silent lift. Some would say its not serious if it lifts at the end. It does not have an effect on audio but its really handy and does save your records

 

Finding a 240V-100V converter isn't impossible but they are not common. 240V-110V is easy. I had the internal transformer  removed and an 18V ac input installed by Rob at speaker bits who supplied the 240Vac -18Vac drop down converter.

Its a small improvement as theres no transformer inside the deck. I kept the original tranny.

 

It took me ages to find info on mine. I found hobby shops with RC cars where the best place to find different weights of silicone oil for the damper.  I settled on 30wt. Seemed to match the response of the Ortofon 2M black cart I was using.

 

PL-30-50--70-100- are all great decks if you can find them. be happy you found one

Edited November 4, 2019 by darth vader

[sutepan]

I will have both the straight carbon graphite arm and s-shape when the TT arrives, as well as the extra counterweight. From what I've read it sounds like the straight will be the better match for my Grado.

 

I also read that 30wt is the way to go for the damping. I guess without the 5 step adjustment we would still be able to experiment with different weights...

 

There's very little information out there for the 30Lii, but lots on the 50, which is equally helpful.

On 04/11/2019 at 10:24 AM, darth vader said:

I have a late model PL-30LII. 1983 (I think). Japanese 100V import

 

Late model PL-30LII has early model PL-50 arm. It has on-off damper, not like PL-50 of the same year that had a 1-5 selector.

 

Mine has a straight graphite tonearm. If you can find a graphite tonearm they are a worthy upgrade. They run between US$200-$300. 

 

The "L" function is great. Silent lift. Some would say its not serious if it lifts at the end. It does not have an effect on audio but its really handy and does save your records

 

Finding a 240V-100V converter isn't impossible but they are not common. 240V-110V is easy. I had the internal transformer  removed and an 18V ac input installed by Rob at speaker bits who supplied the 240Vac -18Vac drop down converter.

Its a small improvement as theres no transformer inside the deck. I kept the original tranny.

 

It took me ages to find info on mine. I found hobby shops with RC cars where the best place to find different weights of silicone oil for the damper.  I settled on 30wt. Seemed to match the response of the Ortofon 2M black cart I was using.

 

PL-30-50--70-100- are all great decks if you can find them. be happy you found one

 

[AM-STEREO]

On 05/11/2019 at 3:24 AM, darth vader said:

Finding a 240V-100V converter isn't impossible but they are not common. 240V-110V is easy. I had the internal transformer  removed and an 18V ac input installed by Rob at speaker bits who supplied the 240Vac -18Vac drop down converter.

Its a small improvement as theres no transformer inside the deck. I kept the original tranny.

I've just finished converting a PL30L II to 230 volts, by removing the internal transformer and replacing it with one that supplies about 20 V AC on the secondary. The voltage isn't that critical and you can go higher or lower (to a point) without affecting the operation of the deck.

I have a number of other 100 V decks which I am working my way through as well.

On 05/11/2019 at 3:24 AM, darth vader said: